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Fei Bao L-39 Assembly Manual
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Fei Bao L-39 Assembly Manual

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F E I
B A O
L - 3 9
A L B A T R O S
FEI BAO JETS
L-39 Assembly Manual
Written by Curtis Mattikow
In collaboration with R/C Jet Models
1 1 1 1

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Summary of Contents for Fei Bao L-39

  • Page 1 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S FEI BAO JETS L-39 Assembly Manual Written by Curtis Mattikow In collaboration with R/C Jet Models 1 1 1 1...

  • Page 2: Before You Begin

    F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S DISCLAIMER: THIS IS NOT A TOY. This is a high-performance miniature aircraft, capable of high speeds and damage to life, limb, and property. The manufacturer and its distributors cannot control how you assemble this model, what equipment you use to fit it out, or how you fly it, and can assume no liability whatsoever for any damages that may occur when you fly your aircraft.
  • Page 3 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S A. Introduction: You have chosen a model that represents the pinnacle of ARF technology. While there is not a lot of building to do, there is enough to keep you busy for a few evenings.

  • Page 4: Fuel System

    A L B A T R O S C. WORKING WITH PNEUMATIC SYSTEMS: The L-39 uses pneumatic brakes and retracts. If you follow a few tips, you should have very reliable, leak-free operation. Neatness counts. All airlines should be secured to the airframe to keep them from flopping around or getting kinked.
  • Page 5 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S 5. Hinging the control surfaces: While there are many ways of doing this, this method will let you do all the surfaces at once, assures proper alignment and movement, and let you move on to other assembly work while the glue on the hinges dries.
  • Page 6 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S 2. Coat the leading edge of the elevator with a thin layer of vaseline to keep any glue from sticking to it. Figure 2 3.
  • Page 7 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S 5. Insert the stab spar into one of the stabs. Figure 5 6. Fill each hinge hole with hysol. Coat each hinge with hysol and insert into place.
  • Page 8 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S 8. Insert the spar into the other stab and glue the hinges into that stab. Figure 8 9. Add glue to the other elevator and press into place. Set aside to dry. Note the importance of vaseline on the spar, and that the spar must be in place before the hinges are glued.
  • Page 9 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S 11. Remove the retract units from the wings and set them aside. Figure 11 12. Check each hinge line for free movement. Sand the trailing edge of the wing if needed to make an adequate gap between the bottom skins.
  • Page 10 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S 14. Secure mounts to the aileron servo as shown. Do not use servo grommets. Figure 14 15. Center the servo and prepare the servo horn as shown. Figure 15 16.
  • Page 11 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S 17. Tie a wheel collar or other weight to a piece of string and tie the string to the aileron servo extension. Figure 17 18.
  • Page 12 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S 20. Drill four pilot holes for the mounting screws. Figure 20 21. Secure the servo with four provided screws. Figure 21 22. Cut a notch in the servo door for the servo horn and screw the door back into place.
  • Page 13 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S 23. You will need to shorten the provided links. Start by dissasembling the links, leaving a locking collar at one end. Figure 23 24.
  • Page 14 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S 26. Add a bolt-on link to the other end as shown. Figure 26 27. Install the new shortened linkage as shown. You will need to properly size the hole in the surface control horn for the bolt.
  • Page 15 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S 29. Use hemostats to install one end of the clear tubing roll to the brake nipple. Secure the brake line to the strut also, using a tie wrap. Figure 29 30.
  • Page 16 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S Figure 31 32. Tie the end of the string to the middle of the colored tubing going to the retracts, then tape the end of the brake line tubing to the colored tubing as shown.
  • Page 17 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S Figure 34 35. Cut off all three air lines about three inches from the root. Install a quick disconnect between the two retract lines, and one to the brake line. Figure 35 36.
  • Page 18 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S 38. Install the rudder servo to the tray using the provided screws. Do not use grommets. Figure 38 39. Shorten a link as shown and solder a clevis to it. Make a servo horn using the innermost hole on the horn.
  • Page 19 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S 41. The linkage needs to stick out the hole as shown2. Figure 41 42. Connect the linkage to the rudder horn as shown. Use a safety clip also. Figure 42 43.
  • Page 20 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S 44. Tighten the fin retaining clamp using the supplied wrench. Figure 44 45. Locate this provided bolt and large washer. Figure 45 46.
  • Page 21 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S 47. Slide the rudder servo back and forth and adjust the linkage until the rudder is neutral and you are happy with the action. Hysol the servo tray into place.
  • Page 22 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S 50. Roughen up the stab roots and remove the paint to expose the fiberglass underneath. Figure 50 51. Roughen up the stab mounts on the fuse the same way. You may also drill small holes in both parts to give the glue a better grip, too.
  • Page 23 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S 53. Hysol the stabs into place. Be sure to use adequate glue, both on the roots and the spar. Figure 53 54. Secure the stabs with the two provided bolts. Check alignment throughly while drying.
  • Page 24 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S 56. Install the pushrods and secure them using the provided allen wrench. Figure 56 57. Use aluminum tape to secure the rudder servo extension to the top and side of the fuselage, it must not hang and touch the hot tailpipe.
  • Page 25 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S 59. Remove the radio trays from the nose of the fuse. Paint them if you like, and set them aside for later. Figure 59 60.
  • Page 26 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S Figure 61 62. Remove the nose gear unit. Figure 62 63. Attach a section of tubing about 18 inches long to the nipples of the nose gear retract unit.
  • Page 27 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S 65. Reinstall the nose gear unit and feed the steering cables through the white plastic tubes. Hemostats are handy for this. Figure 65 66.
  • Page 28 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S 68. Feed the three long lines forward through the bulkhead in front of the main wheel wells. Figure 68 69. Feed one side of each teed off section through the holes on each side of the bulkhead behind the wheel wells.
  • Page 29 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S 71. Secure the lines to the bulkhead on each side with tie wraps as shown. Figure 71 72. Cut off any excess line, leaving about three inches, and add one complete air disconnect to the pair of retract lines and half of one to the brake line on each side.
  • Page 30 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S 74. Bundle the three lines together with tie wraps for neatness. Do not pinch the lines with the tie wraps. Figure 74 75.
  • Page 31 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S 77. Leave the brake line long for now and tape it out of the way to the bottom of the fuse in the nose. Figure 77 78.
  • Page 32 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S 80. Bundle all the extensions together with tie wraps. Figure 80 81. Silicone your receiver batteries as far forward as far forward as you can get to the floor of the front radio compartment.
  • Page 33 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S 83. Glue the tank into place with silicone. Figure 83 84. The tank should touch the intakes and be glued with a little silicone there, too.
  • Page 34 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S 86. Make up a hardwood block to mount the valves to. It should be about the size of one of the valves Figure 86 87.
  • Page 35 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S 89. Cut out a hole big enough to just accommodate two mini servos for the valves. Figure 89 90. Cut the scrap you just removed in two and glue it on the bottom of the tray for reinforcement for the servo mounting screws.
  • Page 36 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S 92. Add ball links to the servos. Figure 92 93. Connect the servos and valves with linkages. Figure 93 94. Drill a hole and add the filler valve to the forward radio tray. Figure 94...
  • Page 37 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S 95. Test fit the tray and mark the clearance needed for the retract nipple on the nose gear. Figure 95 96. Cut a notch to make sure the nose gear line is not pinched. Figure 96 97.
  • Page 38 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S 98. Mount the nose gear steering servo to the tray. Figure 98 99. Drill a three quarter inch hole as shown for airlines. Figure 99 100.
  • Page 39 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S 101. Cut that line in two and reconnect it with a y connector. Figure 101 102. Add a short section of line to connect the y-connector to the fill valve.
  • Page 40 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S Figure 104 105. Add two sections of airline about 9 inches long to the remaining nipples on the retract valve and run them out the hole. Figure 105 106.
  • Page 41 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S 107. Add two high-quality switches. Figure 107 108. Add your receiver. Figure 108 109. Cut a slot in the tray for the servo leads to come up to the receiver from beneath the tray.
  • Page 42 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S 110. Add a regulator or powerbox if desired, behind the batteries on the fuselage floor. Figure 110 111. Connect the servo and battery leads to the receiver. Figure 111 112.
  • Page 43 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S 113. Connect the brake line to line coming from the brake valve. Use a quick disconnect, or connect it directly to the valve. Figure 113 114.
  • Page 44 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S 116. Install the nose gear steering wires to the servo arms. Figure 116 117. Try to fit the turbine. Figure 117 118. You should cut one inch of the intake to center the turbine.
  • Page 45 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S 119. Carefully check the centering of the engine and screw into place. You need to pay attention to the engine manufacturer's specified distance between engine and pipe.
  • Page 46 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S 122. Epoxi the UAT in place and connect the fuel line to the main tank. Figure 122 123. Epoxy or silicone the propane tank to the other side of the fuse as shown.
  • Page 47 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S 125. Install your fuel pump to the engine tray. Figure 125 126. Install your fuel and gas solenoids. Again, you need to be aware of the cockpit tub, and make sure whatever you install works with the tub.
  • Page 48 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S 128. Complete the plumbing of the fuel and gas systems according to your engine's instructions. Figure 128 129. Make up a one eighth inch plywood plate to mount your ECU battery.
  • Page 49 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S 131. Epoxy the plate into place atop the two formers in the nose. Figure 131 132. Put the ECU battery onto the tray with velcro. Figure 132 133.
  • Page 50 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S 134. Epoxy or silicone the dashboard into place when satisfied with the fit. Figure 134 135. You may detail out the cockpit tubs as you like. A simple and cheap solution is to make up two plywood plates, paint them black, and epoxy in place as shown.
  • Page 51 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S 137. Test fit the cockpit tub into the canopy and fuse and trim as required. Figure 137 138. Slip the tub inside the canopy frame and glue into place with silicone or epoxy.
  • Page 52 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S 140. Cut four plywood rectangles to center the pipe. Figure 140 141. Epoxy the plywood pieces into place to center the tailpipe and remove the balsa scraps when dry.
  • Page 53 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S 143. Make up two plywood blocks...the height of these needs to be adjusted to get the pipe at the right height to center on the tail cone of the engine.
  • Page 54 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S 146. Slide the main spar into the fuse. Make a mark four and a half inches from each end, to make sure you keep the spar centered when putting on the wings.
  • Page 55 Engine Selection: The L-39 was designed for engines from 12-18 pounds of thrust. It will fly fine, in a very scale-like manner, with only 12 pounds of thrust. 14 will give a little more push, and a P-70 or Wren Supersport in the 16-18 pound class should give very vivid performance.
  • Page 56 F E I B A O L - 3 9 A L B A T R O S Conclusion: It's a very nice plane to fly. It is quite docile, and the stall is soft and straight forward, and landings are easy. It is a nice first turbine model for someone with some high- speed experience.