DeWalt DW717 Instruction Manual page 35

Performing a sliding cut (fi g. A1, N)
The guide rail allows cutting larger workpieces from 76.2 mm up to
111.8 mm using an out-down-back sliding motion.
• Release the rail lock knob (16).
• Pull the saw head towards you and switch the tool on.
• Lower the saw blade into the workpiece and push the head back to
complete the cut.
• Proceed as described above.
WARNING:
• Do not perform sliding cuts on workpieces smaller than
76.2 mm.
• Remember to lock the saw head in the rear position when the
sliding cuts are fi nished.
Mitre cross-cut (fi g. A1, A2 & O)
• Release the mitre lever (4) and depress the mitre latch (5).
• Move the arm left or right to the required angle. The mitre latch will
automatically locate at 10°, 15°, 22.5°, 31.62° and 45° both left and
right. If any intermediate angle is required hold the head fi rmly and lock
by tightening the mitre lever.
• Always ensure that the mitre lever is locked tightly before cutting.
• Proceed as for a vertical straight cross-cut.
WARNING: When mitring the end of a piece of wood with a
small off-cut, position the wood to ensure that the off-cut is to
the side of the blade with the greater angle to the fence; i.e. left
mitre, off-cut to the right - right mitre, off-cut to the left.
Bevel cuts (fi g. A1, A2 & P)
Bevel angles can be set from 48° left to 48° right and can be cut with the
mitre arm set between zero and a maximum of 45° mitre position right or
left.
Left bevel
• Slide the upper part of the left side fence (3) to the left as far as it will go.
• Loosen the bevel clamp handle (21), lift the bevel latch (20) and set the
bevel as desired.
• The bevel latch automatically locates at 22.5°, 33.85° and 45°. If
any intermediate angle is required, hold the head fi rmly and lock by
tightening the bevel clamp handle (21).
• Proceed as for a vertical straight cross-cut.
Right bevel
• Slide the upper part of the right side fence (8) to the right as far as it will
go.
• Proceed as for a left bevel cut.
Quality of cut
The smoothness of any cut depends on a number of variables, e.g. the
material being cut. When smoothest cuts are desired for moulding and
other precision work, a sharp (60 tooth carbide) blade and a slower,
even cutting rate will produce the desired results.
WARNING: Ensure that the material does not creep while
cutting; clamp itsecurely in place. Always let the blade come to
a full stopbefore raising the arm. If small fibres of wood still split
out atthe rear of the workpiece, stick a piece of masking tape
on thewood where the cut will be made. Saw through the tape
andcarefully remove tape when finished.
Clamping the workpiece (fi g. A6)
• Whenever possible, clamp the wood to the saw.
• For best results use the clamp (29) made for use with your saw.
Clamp the workpiece to the fence whenever possible. You can clamp
to either side of the saw blade; remember to position your clamp
against a solid, fl at surface of fence.
Support for long pieces (fi g. A4)
• Always support long pieces.
• For best results, use the extension work support (27) to extend the
table width of your saw (available from your dealer as an option).
Support long workpieces using any convenient means such as
saw-horses or similar devices to keep the ends from dropping.
Cutting picture frames, shadow boxes & other four sided projects
(fi g. Q1 & Q2)
Trim moulding and other frames
Try a few simple projects using scrap wood until you develop a "feel" for
your saw. Your saw is the perfect tool for mitring corners like the one
shown in fi g. Q1. The joint shown has been made using either bevel
adjustment.
- Using bevel adjustment
The bevel for the two boards is adjusted to 45° each, producing a 90° corner.
The mitre arm is locked in the zero position. The wood is positioned with
the broad fl at side against the table and the narrow edge against the fence.
- Using mitre adjustment
The same cut can be made by mitring right and left with the broad surface
against the fence.
The two sketches (fi g. Q1 & Q2) are for four side objects only. As the
number of sides changes, so do the mitre and bevel angles. The chart
below gives the proper angles for a variety of shapes, assuming that all
sides are of equal length. For a shape that is not shown in the chart,
divide 180° by the number of sides to determine the mitre or bevel angle.
No. of sides
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
Compound mitre (fi g. R1 & R2)
A compound mitre is a cut made using a mitre angle (fi g. Q2) and a bevel
angle (fi g. Q1) at the same time. This is the type of cut used to make
frames or boxes with slanting sides like the one shown in fi g. R1.
WARNING: If the cutting angle varies from cut to cut,
check that the bevel clamp knob and the mitre lock knob
are securely tightened. These knobs must be tightened
after making any changes in bevel or mitre (fi g. R1 & R2).
• The chart shown below will assist you in selecting the proper bevel
and mitre settings for common compound mitre cuts. To use the chart,
select the desired angle "A" (fi g. R2) of your project and locate that
angle on the appropriate arc in the chart. From that point follow the
chart straight down to fi nd the correct bevel angle and straight across
to fi nd the correct mitre angle.
• Set your saw to the prescribed angles and make a few trial cuts.
• Practice fi tting the cut pieces together.
• Example: To make a 4 sided box with 25° exterior angles (angle "A")
(fi g. R2), use the upper right arc. Find 25° on the arc scale. Follow the
horizontal intersecting line to either side to get the mitre angle setting
on the saw (23°). Likewise follow the vertical intersecting line to the top
or bottom to get the bevel angle setting on the saw (40°). Always try
cuts on a few scrap pieces of wood to verify the settings on the saw.
E N G L I S H
Angle mitre or bevel
45°
36°
30°
25.7°
22.5°
20°
18°
33