Westerbeke 22.0 EDE 60Hz Operator's Manual page 51

LAY-UP
&
RECOMMISSIONING
GENERAL
Many owners rely on their boatyards to prepare their craft,
including engines and generators, for lay-up during the
off-season or for long periods of inactivity. Others prefer
to accomplish lay-up preparation themselves.
The procedures which follow will allow you to perform your
own lay-up and recommissioning, or you may use them as a
check list if others do the procedures.
These procedures should afford your engine protection
during a lay-up and also help familiarize you with the
maintenance needs of your engine.
If you have any questions regarding lay-up procedures, call
your local servicing dealer; he will be more than willing to
provide assistance.
Propeller Shaft Coupling [Propulsion Engine}
The transmission and propeller half couplings should always
be opened up and the bolts removed when the boat is hauled
out of the water or moved from land to water, and during
storage in the cradle. The flexibility of the boat often puts a
severe strain on the propeller shaft or coupling or both, while
the boat is taken out or put in the water. In some cases, the
shaft has actually been bent by these strains. This does not
apply to small boats that are hauled out of the water when
not in use, unless they have been dry for a considerable
period of time.
Fresh Water Cooling Circuit
A 50-50 solution of antifreeze and distilled water is
recommended for use in the coolant system at all times.
This solution may require a higher concentration of
antifreeze, depending on the area's winter climate. Check the
solution to make sure the antifreeze protection is adequate.
Should more antifreeze be needed, drain an appropriate
amount from the engine block and add a more concentrated
mixture. Operate the engine to ensure a complete circulation
and mixture of the antifreeze concentration throughout the
cooling system. Now recheck the antifreeze solution's strength.
Lubrication System
With the engine warm, drain all the engine oil from the oil
sump. Remove and replace the oil filter and fill the sump
with new oil. Use the correct grade of oil. Refer to the
ENGINE LUBRICATING OIL pages in this manual for the
oil changing procedure. Run the engine and check for proper
oil pressure and make sure there are no leaks.
A
CAUTION:
Do not leave the engine's old engine oil
in the sump over the lay-up period. Lubricating oil and
combustion deposits combine to produce harmful
chemicals which can reduce the life of your engine's
internal parts.
Fuel System [Gasoline}
Top off your fuel tanks with unleaded gasoline of 89 octane
or higher. A fuel conditioner such as Sta-Bil gasoline
stabilizer should be added. Change the element in your
gasoline/water separator and clean the metal bowl. Re-install
and make certain there are no leaks. Clean up any spilled
fuel.
Fuel System [Diesel}
Top off your fuel tanks with No. 2D diesel fuel. Fuel
additives should be added prior to topping off to ensure they
mix with the fuel being added and fuel still in the tank.
Additives. such as Bio-bor and Diesel Kleen + Cetane Boost
should be added at this time to control bacteria growth and
condition the fuel. Care should be taken that the additives
used are compatible with the primary fuel filter/water
separator used in the system. Change the element in your
primary fuel filter/water separator clean the separator
sediment bowl.
Change the fuel filter elements on the engine and bleed the
fuel system, as needed. Start the engine and allow it to run
for 5 - 10 minutes to mah sure no air is left in the fuel
system. Check for any leaks that may have been created in
the fuel system during this servicing, correcting them as
needed. Operating the engine for 5 - 10 minutes will help
allow movement of the treated fuel through the injection
equipment on the engine.
Raw Water Cooling Circuit
Close the through-hull seacock. Remove the raw water intake
hose from the seacock. Place the end of this hose into a five
gallon bucket of clean fresh water. Before starting the engine,
check the zinc anode found in the primary heat exchanger on
the engine and clean or replace it as required, and also clean
any zinc debris from inside the heat exchanger where the
zinc anode is located. Clean the raw water strainer.
Start the engine and allow the raw water pump to draw the
fresh water through the system. When the bucket is empty,
stop the engine and refill the bucket with an antifreeze
solution slightly stronger than needed for winter freeze
protection in your area.
Start the engine and allow all of this mixture to be drawn
through the raw water system. Once the bucket is empty, stop
the engine. This antifreeze mixture should protect the raw
water circuit from freezing during the winter lay-up, as well
as providing corrosion protection.
Remove the impeller from your raw water pump (some
antifreeze mixture will accompany it, so catch it in a bucket).
Examine the impeller. Acquire a replacement, if needed, and
a cover gasket. Do not replace the impeller (into the pump)
until recommissioning, but replace the cover and gasket.
Cylinder Lubrication [Gasoline}
Spray fogging oil into the open air intake, with the flame
arrester removed, while the engine is running. The fogging
oil will stall out the engine and coat the valves, cylinders and
spark plugs for winter protection.
Engines & Generators
44