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ADJUSTMENTS
WARNING:
FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY,
TURN SWITCH
"OFF"
AND
REMOVE
PLUG FROM POWER SOURCE
OUTLET BEFORE MAKING
ANY ADJUSTMENTS.
MITER GAUGE
NOTE:
The holes for the stop
;)in and the graduations
are
manufactured
to
very
close
tolerances
which
provide
accuracy
for
average
woodworking.
In some cases where
extreme
accuracy
is required,
when
making
angle cuts, for
example,
make a trial
cut and then recheck
it.
If necessary,
the miter
gauge head
can be swiveled
slightly
to compensate
for any inaccuracy.
1.
Loosen the "handle"
and pull "'stop
pin"
OUT.
2.
Swivel
the head
...
position
it at "'0"
.
. push
the
stop pin IN
...
lock the handle.
3.
The
HEAD
should
be square
with
the
Bar and
the
pointer
should
point
to
"0".
Readjust
the
pointer
if
necessary.
4.
If the head is not square
with
the bar, adjustments
are
required.
A.
Loosen
the "handle"
(1] and the "two
screws"
(2)
B.
Position
the
HEAD
square
with
the BAR
using
a
combination
square.
C.
PUSH
the STOP
PIN into
the hole
in the head
at
"0"
...
push
the pin
into the hole
and twist
it.
Lock the handle.
D.
Recheck
with
the
square.
If the head
is still
not
square,
loosen
the
screws
(2)
and
readjust
the
INDICATOR
BLOCK.
E.
With
the
head
square
with
the
bar
and
the
pin
pushed
into
the hole, adjust the pointer
(3) to point
to "0".
F.
The
miter
gauge head must
rest on top of the bar
without
being able to move up and down
...
yet it
must swivel freely.
G.
The
swiveling
movement
of
the
head
can
be
LOCK HANDLE
"_
"0"
BAR
___
I
STOP
o
_[I
PIN
N SQUARE
NDI CATOR
BLOCK
._--'-
I
I/8 IN.
SETSCREW
WRENCH
2_
adjusted
by tightening
or loosening
the setscrew
(4)
...
using the 1/8 in. setscrew wrench.
NOTE:
The setscrew
is located
inside of the head.
To reach
it, swivel the head to 60 degrees and turn
the miter
gauge upside
down,
HEELING
ADJUSTMENT
or PARALLELISM
OF SAWBLADE
TO MITER GAUGE
GROOVE
While cutting, the material
must move in a straight line
PARALLEL
to the SAWBLADE
...
therefore both the
miter
gauge GROOVE
and the
RIP
FENCE
must be
PARALLEL to the SAWBLADE.
If the sawblade IS NOT parallel to the miter gaugegroove,
the blade will bind at one end of the cut. (This is known as
"HEELING").
To check for parallelism;
WARNING
- FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY, TURN SWITCH
"OFF"
AND
REMOVE
PLUG FROM
POWER SOURCE
OUTLET.
1. Raise blade all the way up...
raise blade guard.
2.
Mark as "x'" on one of the teeth which is SET (bent) to
the LEFT.
3. Place the
head of
a combination
square in
the
GROOVE
...
adjust blade of square so that it just
touches the tip of of the MARKED
tooth.
4. Move square to REAR, rotate blade to see if MARKED
-_
tooth again touches blade of square.
_-_
5. If tooth touches square the same amount at FRONT
and
REAR
,..
sawblade is PARALLEL
to MITER
GAUGE GROOVE.
MARK
"X"
ON
TOOTH
29
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