Bernina L 890 QUILTERS EDITION User Manual
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Bernina L 890 QUILTERS EDITION User Manual

Bernina L 890 QUILTERS EDITION User Manual

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BERNINA L 890
QUILTERS EDITION
User Manual

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Summary of Contents for Bernina L 890 QUILTERS EDITION

  • Page 1 BERNINA L 890 QUILTERS EDITION User Manual...
  • Page 3 Congratulations on the purchase of your BERNINA Overlocker! With BERNINA, you have selected a product that will impress you for years to come. For our family has made customer satisfaction our number one priority for more than 100 years. It is my personal goal to offer you Swiss innovation and precision at the highest level of perfection, future-oriented sewing technology, and comprehensive customer service.

  • Page 4: Table Of Contents

    Adjusting the needle stop up/down ......Machine Covers ............. 44 BERNINA quality control .......... 11 Open/Close the Threader Cover ........Welcome to the World of BERNINA ......11 Open/close the looper cover ........Machine Overview ..........13 Removing/attaching the knife cover insert ....
  • Page 5 Information on the firmware ........103 Blue ................84 Restore factory settings ..........104 Updating firmware ............. 105 One-step BERNINA air threader ....... 84 Calibrate screen ............106 Performing a pulse drive ..........84 Threading the Looper Threads UL/blue, LL/red, CL/ 10.2 Machine ..............
  • Page 6 Table of Contents Cleaning the screen ............ 108 Cleaning the Suction Feet ........... 108 Oiling the Machine ............108 Errors and Faults ..........109 11.1 Troubleshooting ............. 109 Storage and disposal ........... 111 12.1 Storing the Machine ..........111 12.2 Transporting the machine ........111 12.3 Dispose of the machine ..........

  • Page 7: Safety Instructions

    • Before starting the machine, attach all the manufacturer. protection guards and close the covers. • Always use the original BERNINA Stitch Plate. WARNING An incorrect stitch plate can result in needle breakage. To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock •...
  • Page 8 Important safety instructions • To switch off, set the power switch to Safety Instructions «0». • While operating the machine, all protective inserts must be in place and all • When protective covers are removed, covers must be closed. when the machine is oiled or when other cleaning and maintenance operations mentioned in this instruction manual are Appropriate Use...

  • Page 9: Important Information

    • The latest version of the instruction manual can be downloaded at www.bernina.com Proper Use Your BERNINA machine is conceived and designed for private household use. It answers the purpose for overlocking fabrics as it is decribed in this instruction manual. Any other use is not considered proper.
  • Page 10 Designates a low-risk hazard which can lead to minor or moderate injuries if not avoided. Designates a hazard which can lead to material damage if not avoided. NOTICE You will find tips from BERNINA sewing experts next to this symbol.

  • Page 11: My Bernina Overlocker

    1.3 Welcome to the World of BERNINA Made to create, this is the slogan of BERNINA. Not only with our machines do we support you in the implementation of your ideas. In addition to the offers listed below, we offer you lots of suggestions and instructions for your future projects as well as the opportunity to exchange ideas with other sewing, quilting and embroidery enthusiasts.
  • Page 12 Furthermore, you have direct access to the customer portal, the blog and the "inspiration" online store, and you can always find a BERNINA dealer near you. The app is available in the Apple App Store and the Google Play Store.

  • Page 13: Machine Overview

    My BERNINA overlocker 1.4 Machine Overview Overview - front Knife on/off Screen Cutting width dial Thread tension fine adjustment Freearm cleaning cover Thread guiding plate Freearm Thread deflection fingers Guide rails Threader cover Sewing light Knife cover insert/coverstitch insert Thread cutter...

  • Page 14: Overview - Needle Area

    My BERNINA overlocker Overview - needle area Stitch plate Needle checking window Standard presser foot overlock/coverstitch Needle screws Presser foot spring Thread guide on the needle holder Presser foot shaft Overlock needles ELx705  CF (2 pcs.) Presser foot lifter CS needles ELx705 (3 pcs.)

  • Page 15: Overview - Looper Area

    My BERNINA overlocker Overview - looper area mtc Micro Thread Control Dial Lower Looper Rolled Hem Selection Lever Chain Looper Knife Air Threader Pipes Upper Looper Upper Looper Converter Air Threader Pipes Lower Looper Upper Looper Air Threader Pipes Chain Looper...

  • Page 16: Overview - Threading Area

    My BERNINA overlocker Overview - threading area Threader cover Upper looper on/off Accessories storage Threading chart Looper cover Air threader nozzles Coverstitch insert Air threader connector on/off Knife cover insert Needle pad Air threader circumvention...

  • Page 17: Overview - Side

    My BERNINA overlocker Overview - side Carry Handle and Recessed Grip Foot Control Connection Handwheel Power Switch Magnetic Holder for Touch Screen Pen Type Label Air Vents Power Plug Socket...

  • Page 18: Overview - Rear

    My BERNINA overlocker Overview - rear Thread stand Thread cutter Spool pin Presser foot lifter Carrying handle Presser foot release Lever (red) Retractable thread guide Guide rails Presser foot pressure wheel...

  • Page 19: Symbols On The Machine

    My BERNINA overlocker Symbols on the machine The symbols on the machine are for your guidance and give assistance when adjusting settings and threading the machine. • Overlock Stitch Formation «OL» • Coverstitch Formation «CS» Left Overlock Needle Thread (Left needle for OL)
  • Page 20 My BERNINA overlocker Thread Path Purple «CL» Thread Path Purple Air Threading Circumvention Upper Looper Converter Activated/Deactivated (Upper Looper Converter) Upper Looper On/Off Cutting Width (Cutting Width) Stitch Length (Stitch Length) Differential Feed (Differential Feed) Rolled Hem Selection Lever (Overlock/Rolled Hem) Overlock «O»...

  • Page 21: Default Values

    1.5 Overview - Standard Accessories Included accessories The machine is ready for operation with the supplied accessories. Special sewing applications sometimes require optional accessories. To find more accessories, visit www.bernina.com. Illustration Name Purpose Dust Cover...
  • Page 22 My BERNINA overlocker Illustration Name Purpose Freearm Cover To fill the clearance between the stitch plate and the sewing area. Slide-on Table To extend the sewing area. Free Hand System (FHS) To raise and lower the presser foot. Overlock/Combostitch For general sewing projects with overlock and Foot #C11 combo stitches.
  • Page 23 My BERNINA overlocker Accessories in Threader Cover The most frequently needed accessories while sewing are arranged in the threader cover of the machine. Illustration Name Purpose Needle Set ELx705 CF Recommended needles for all-purpose use. Screwdriver, hex To loosen or tighten the fixing screws on the 1.5 mm...
  • Page 24 My BERNINA overlocker Accessories in the Accessories Box Illustration Name Purpose Overlocker Oil For oiling the looper components. Spool Stabilizer (5x) To stabilize the thread cone on the spool holder. Spool Net (5x) For even thread unwinding with smooth threads from the thread spool, e.g.

  • Page 25: Details Of The Screen

    My BERNINA overlocker Accessories in the Accessories Box Extension Illustration Name Purpose Touchscreen Pen For precise operation of the touch screen. CS Lock Tool To pull the needle threads and to secure the stitches. To separate the threads so that the sewing project can be removed from or placed under the presser foot.
  • Page 26 My BERNINA overlocker Illustration Name Purpose «Close» Close the window. More Show more features or information. Continue Scroll to next display. Back Scroll to previous display. Activate/Deactivate Functions Illustration Element Status Switch Function is activated. Function is deactivated. Icon Function is deactivated.
  • Page 27 My BERNINA overlocker Enter Text and Numbers To enter numerical values or text, a corresponding keyboard is shown. Illustration Name Purpose Entry Field Display of the entry. Delete all characters entered with a single tap. «Deleting» Delete the last character.

  • Page 28: Screen Structure

    My BERNINA overlocker Screen structure The screen can be operated by touching the desired icon with your finger or with the included touch screen pen. When the machine is switched on for the first time, the desired screen language is requested in which the display texts appear.

  • Page 29: Home Screen

    My BERNINA overlocker Home screen All settings that have nothing to do with a stitch are made on the home screen. This view provides an entry- point to personalize the machine and query information. «Setup Program» «eco» «Tutorials» «User Modes»...

  • Page 30: Sewing Screen

    My BERNINA overlocker User modes The user modes allow to preset the sewing screen according to the sewing experience of the user. The Guided mode is preset. «Guided mode» «Expert mode» Guided mode The guided mode is preset as standard and allows a smooth start into the operation of the machine. No previous knowledge is required.
  • Page 31 My BERNINA overlocker Stitch selection «Stitch pattern» To change the stitch view from schematic to realistic view. «Name» To activate/deactivate the stitch name next to the stitch pattern. «Folder structure» To switch between stitchgroups or all stitches. «Stitch number» To select the stitch by entering the stitch number.
  • Page 32 My BERNINA overlocker Manual Settings This overview shows which manual settings must be made for the selected stitch. All settings listed here must be checked and performed in order to sew the selected stitch. Note Description «Presser Foot» Indicates the presser foot recommended for the stitch.
  • Page 33 My BERNINA overlocker Stitch view Any changes in this stitch view directly affect the stitch and the machine. All displayed values are set by the machine accordingly. «Stitch Number/Name» Shows the currently set stitch name with the stitch number. «Stitch View»...

  • Page 34: Setting Up The Machine

    Setting Up the Machine Setting Up the Machine 2.1 Working Area A stable table with a secure stand is a good prerequisite for optimal sewing results. Ergonomics around the sewing table is important to protect the muscles and joints of the back, shoulder, arms and hands. The recommendation for optimal ergonomics includes matching the table height with the body posture.

  • Page 35: Spool Holder

    Setting Up the Machine 2.2 Spool Holder Thread cones, foot spools or household spools of all sizes can be placed on the spool holder. Preparing the retractable thread guide The retractable thread guide is placed on the thread stand. It ensures a clean unwinding of the thread from the thread cones.

  • Page 36: Attaching The Spool Stabilizer

    Setting Up the Machine Attaching the Spool Stabilizer For large thread cones, the spool stabilizer serves to stabilize the thread cone on the spool pin. > For extremely conical spools, place the spool stabilizer onto the thread spool pin with the pointy end up. >...

  • Page 37: Foot Control

    Pressing the foot control moves the needles, the loopers and the knife. The sewing speed can be infinitely adjusted by more or less pressure on the foot control. The maximum sewing speed (pressing the foot control all the way down) can be preset. (see page 50) When the threader cover is open, the one-step BERNINA air threader starts.

  • Page 38: Presser Foot

    Setting Up the Machine > To stop the sewing process, release the pressure on the foot control. > To position the needle up/down, press the foot control down with the heel «Back-kick». The «Back-kick» is deactivated when the machine covers are open. 2.4 Presser Foot Positioning the Presser Foot Up/Down The lifted presser foot allows you to place the sewing project under the presser foot.

  • Page 39: Lifting The Front Foot

    Setting Up the Machine Lifting the front foot By lifting the presser foot lifter above the latching position, the space between the stitch plate and presser foot increases. Thick layers of fabric can be placed more easily under the presser foot. Prerequisite: •...

  • Page 40: Changing The Presser Foot

    Setting Up the Machine > Swing the presser foot front sideways to the left. > To set the presser foot in the sewing position, lower the presser foot lifter or swing the presser foot sideways to the right. Changing the Presser Foot Prerequisite: •...

  • Page 41: Needle Area

    Damage due to Excessive Tightening of the Screws NOTICE The threads of the needle holder may be damaged. A repair by the authorized BERNINA dealer is required. > Do not overtighten the needle screws. Prerequisite: •...

  • Page 42: Needle Pad

    Setting Up the Machine > Guide the needle inserter from below over the needle and loosen the needle screw using the supplied screwdriver Hex. > Remove the needle downwards and store it in the needle pad. > Insert the new needle with the flat side to the back into the needle inserter. >...

  • Page 43: Threading The Needle Manually

    Setting Up the Machine Threading the Needle Manually With the needle threader every needle can be threaded easily. > Hold the needle threader with the triangular mark facing up. > Pull the thread horizontally through the Y-shaped slot and hold the end of the thread. >...

  • Page 44: Positioning The Needles Up/Down

    Setting Up the Machine Positioning the needles up/down The needles always remain in the topmost position when the sewing process is stopped. Turning the handwheel changes the needle position and the topmost position is not ensured. The «Back-kick» is deactivated when the machine covers are open. The top needle position is required for the following actions: •...

  • Page 45: Open/Close The Looper Cover

    Setting Up the Machine > To close the threader cover, swing the threader cover up until it clicks into place. If the threader cover cannot be closed completely, the air threader connector is still switched on. Open/close the looper cover The looper cover with integrated knife cover insert protects against injuries caused by the movement of the looper and knife movement as well as against dust and fabric scraps.

  • Page 46: Removing/Attaching The Coverstitch Insert

    Setting Up the Machine > To insert the knife cover insert, push the knife cover insert into the snap-in opening. > To remove the knife cover insert, pull the knife cover insert out of the snap-in opening. Missing knife cover insert while sewing NOTICE Injury to the fingers due to the knife movement.

  • Page 47: Handwheel

    Setting Up the Machine 2.7 Handwheel By turning the handwheel counterclockwise, several activities can be performed. • Slow, Precise Placement of the Needle • Moving the Loopers • Moving the Knife • Mechanical Coupling of the Air Threader 2.8 Sewing Assistance Using the Thread Cutter The thread cutter is used to cut the threads/thread chain.

  • Page 48: Attaching/Removing The Knee Llifter

    > To remove the knee lifter, pull the knee lifter out of the knee lifter connection without swinging the knee lifter sideways. The swing-out position of the knee lifter can be adjusted at an authorized BERNINA dealer if required. Attaching/Removing the Cut-offs Bin The cut-offs bin catches the fabric scraps during the sewing process.

  • Page 49: Attaching/Removing The Slide-On Table

    Setting Up the Machine > To remove the freearm cover, pull the freearm cover to the left. Attaching/Removing the Slide-on Table The slide-on table increases the sewing surface, which is especially helpful with larger sewing projects. Prerequisite: • The freearm cover is removed. >...

  • Page 50: Setting Up Software

    Setting up software Setting up software 3.1 Setup Program In the setup program, default settings are performed, which will remain active until the next adjustment is made. «Sewing Speed» «Firmware Settings» «Screen Brightness / Sewing Light» «Personal Settings» «Sound Settings» «Monitoring Sensors»...

  • Page 51: Activating The Audio Signals

    Setting up software The sewing light can be switched off and on again in case of a disturbing effect. «Display Brightness» «Sewing Light On/Off» Activating the audio signals On-screen touches are confirmed with a sound. The sound can be selected or muted as requested. «Set sound»...

  • Page 52: Personalize The Sewing Screen

    Setting up software Personalize the sewing screen Different colors can be assigned to the sewing screen for the two user modes «Guided mode» and «Expert mode». A wallpaper pattern can be selected, which is displayed for both user modes. The entry of the welcome text appears only for a short time during the start-up of the machine. «Welcome text»...

  • Page 53: Activating The Eco Mode

    Setting up software > Select a subordinate topic until the desired information is obtained. – A history navigation at the upper left edge of the screen serves as orientation. 3.3 Activating the eco mode > Press «eco». – The screen turns black and the eco mode symbol appears. –...

  • Page 54: Sewing Start

    Sewing Start Sewing Start 4.1 Check before starting to sew In order to start a project successfully, the following steps must be performed. • The machine is switched on and the presser foot is lifted. • The fabric and the applications have been selected. (see page 54) •...

  • Page 55: Selecting The Needle Thread

    Selecting the looper thread A wide range of thread types can be used as looper threads which can threaded with the One-step BERNINA air threader. For very thick threads, the air threader circumvention must be used. (see page 87)

  • Page 56: Selecting The Needle

    Sewing Start 4.4 Selecting the needle This machine is designed for needles of the system ELx705 with needle sizes 70 ─ 90. It is recommended to use the ELx705 CF (Chrome Finish) version as ELx705 CF needles are more durable. Due to the second thread groove, the machine runs most reliably with ELx705 CF needles.

  • Page 57: Needle Overview

    Fine knitwear, embroidering on fine, delicate fabrics 130/705 H SES 90/14 Metafil needle 80/12 Long needle eye (2 mm) in all Sewing projects with metallic needle sizes threads 130/705 H METAFIL *Not all needle sizes are available as BERNINA Needles.

  • Page 58: Detect Defective Needles

    Sewing Start Detect Defective Needles Check the needle before each sewing start and replace it if necessary. Bent Needle Blunt Needle Damaged Needle Point 4.5 Fixing Fabric Layers If several layers of fabric are sewn together, they can be fixed with basting stitches sewn on the sewing machine or by pins.

  • Page 59: Selecting A Stitch

    Selecting a Stitch Selecting a Stitch 5.1 Stitch Type With this machine different stitch formations can be set. These stitches are achieved by different configurations of needles and mechanical settings. Overlock Stitch The 3- and 4-Thread Overlock are considered standard overlock stitches for sewing two layers of fabric together, for finishing cut edges, e. g.
  • Page 60 Selecting a Stitch Finishing Edges The finishing of a fabric edge is mostly used as preparation for open seams or as a decorative edge finish. Stitch Number Stitch Name Stitch Pattern No. 3 3-Thread Overlock Wide (LN) No. 4 3-Thread Overlock Narrow (RN) No. 8 3-Thread Rolled Hem No. 9...
  • Page 61 Selecting a Stitch Seam Seams are at least two layers of fabric, which are usually placed right side on right side and then sewn together. There are two different types of seams. • Closed Seams • Flat Seams Closed Seam For closed seams 3-Thread or 4-Thread Overlock Stitches are suitable, because they loop around both fabric edges and sew them together.

  • Page 62: Coverstitch

    Selecting a Stitch Stitch Number Stitch Name Stitch Pattern No. 11 2-Thread Flatlock Wide (LN) No. 12 2-Thread Flatlock Narrow (RN) Coverstitch Coverstitch hems on garments, having been sewn with the machine, look very professional. 3- / 4-Thread Coverstitch The coverstitch consists of 2 - 3 needle threads on the right side and 1 looper thread on the wrong side of the fabric.

  • Page 63: Combostitch

    Selecting a Stitch 2-Thread Chainstitch The 2-Thread Chainstitch looks like a straight stitch on the right side of the fabric, and on the wrong side it forms a chain. With a decorative thread in the chain looper and the needle, the chainstitch looks more distinctive and is more prominent.

  • Page 64: Stitch Selection On The Screen

    Selecting a Stitch 5.2 Stitch selection on the screen There are three different options to select a stitch. Select a stitch from the «Stitch selection» in the sewing screen. (see page 64) In the sewing screen, select a stitch from the «Personal memory». (see page 65) In the Home screen, open the «Creative Consultant»...

  • Page 65: Selecting/Editing A Stitch From The Personal Memory

    Selecting a Stitch Selecting/Editing a stitch from the Personal Memory > Select the Personal Memory. – Stitches which are already saved are displayed. > Select the stitch by tapping on the icon. – The Setup Wizard starts. > Perform all settings for the selected stitch step by step on the machine and scroll forward. >...

  • Page 66: Using The Stitch Recommendation Of Creative Consultant

    Selecting a Stitch Rename stitch Prerequisite: • The Personal memory is selected. • All saved stitches are listed. > Tap on «Rename a stitch». > Select the stitch pattern with the stitch name to be changed. – The entry field for stitch naming appears. >...

  • Page 67: Machine Settings

    Machine Settings Machine Settings 6.1 Preparing the Machine for Overlock or Overlock/Chainstitch Combo The machine can be set up for finishing the fabric edge with fabric cut with just a few movements. Prerequisite: • The looper cover is opened. > Set the «Upper Looper On/Off» to the right. (see page 68) >...

  • Page 68: Setting The Cutting Width

    Machine Settings Setting the cutting width The cutting width for the knife position can be adjusted between 5 - 9 mm. The numbers on the scale correspond with the actual cutting width in mm from the left overlock needle «LN» to the cutting edge. The cutting width is used to determine the stitch width.

  • Page 69: Upper Looper Converter Hooked In/Hooked Out

    Machine Settings > Press the foot control. – The pulse drive is performed. – Upper looper is activated. > Attach the knife cover insert. (see page 45) Deactivating the upper looper Prerequisite: • The looper cover and the threader cover are opened. •...

  • Page 70: Adjusting The Thread Tension

    Machine Settings > Lightly press the upper looper converter back on the retaining bracket and hook the snap-in lug into the eye of the looper, making sure that the snap-in lug is completely engaged. > To unhook the upper looper converter, press the retaining bracket of the upper looper converter back slightly and remove the snap-in lug out of the looper eye.

  • Page 71: Adjusting The Differential Feed

    Machine Settings > The slider control of each thread tension can be adjusted between 1 and 9. > Each individual thread tension can be adjusted between 1 and 9 using the fine adjustment keys «+/-». The alteration of the thread tension is visible on the screen. Optimizing the thread tension for cover stitches The thread tension should be reduced in the smallest possible steps from the basic value.
  • Page 72 Machine Settings > Set the Differential Feed proportion of the front feed dog via the Differential Feed setting. Setting for the Fabric Result front feed dog Fine, soft fabrics Ruffling, puckering, gathering Jersey, sweatshirt, knits Slight ruffling, preventing seam waving Wowen knit and medium-weight dense Default value fabric...
  • Page 73 Machine Settings Ruffling/Gather to fit 1.5 − 2 The front feed dog with the setting value 2 travels a longer distance than the rear feed dog at constant speed. Gathering This setting for gathering can also be used to deliberately ruffle the material. >...

  • Page 74: Rolled Hem Selection Lever "O/R

    Machine Settings > To prevent seam puckering, reduce the Differential Feed to a value between 0.7 and 1. 6.8 Rolled Hem Selection Lever «O/R» The adjustment positions for overlocking «O» and rolled hems «R» are marked in the stitch plate and can be set for the desired application.

  • Page 75: Setting The Mtc Micro Thread Control

    Machine Settings > Move the rolled hem selection lever to position «R». – The rolled hem is activated. – The stitch finger is retracted. 6.9 Setting the mtc micro thread control By default mtc micro thread control is always set to position «0». The mtc micro thread control affects the amount of the Looper Thread around the fabric edge and can be adjusted continuously while sewing.

  • Page 76: Setting The Presser Foot Pressure

    Machine Settings > To minimize the loops of the looper thread at the fabric edge, turn the mtc micro thread control in «-» direction during sewing. 6.10 Setting the presser foot pressure The Presser Foot Pressure of the machine is set in the default value "4" so that it is suitable for sewing medium-weight fabrics.

  • Page 77: Adjusting The Stitch Width

    Machine Settings 6.11 Adjusting the Stitch Width The stitch width can be adjusted in two different ways. • Needle Position • Cutting Width The stitch width can be set by means of the needle position. Changing the stitch width via the needle position The stitch width can vary by the choice of needle position by 2 mm.

  • Page 78: Threading

    Threading Threading Thanks to the One-step BERNINA air threader, the machine can be threaded in any desired sequence. Needle System ELx705 Flat Side LN RN LC CC RC OVERLOCK COVER COMBO LN RN LC CC RC RC LN RN...

  • Page 79: Preparing For Threading

    Threading 7.1 Preparing for threading Perform the required mechanical settings for the stitch e. g. needle position, rolled hem selection lever and upper looper converter. Correct threading is ensured when following the color markings. Prerequisite: • The retractable thread guide is fully extended. •...

  • Page 80: Threading The Needle Thread

    Threading 7.2 Threading the Needle Thread Threading the Left Overlock Needle Thread LN/Yellow The left needle thread path is marked in yellow. Prerequisite: • Threading is prepared. (see page 79) • Swing the presser foot out. > Pull the thread beneath the thread guide plate to the left and up behind the yellow marking. >...

  • Page 81: Threading The Right Overlock Needle Thread Rn/Green

    Threading Threading the Right Overlock Needle Thread RN/Green The right needle thread path is marked green. Prerequisite: • Threading is prepared. (see page 79) • Swing the presser foot out. > Pull the thread beneath the thread guide plate to the left and up behind the green marking. >...

  • Page 82: Threading The Left Coverstitch Needle Thread Lc/Yellow

    Threading Threading the Left Coverstitch Needle Thread LC/Yellow The left coverstitch needle thread is marked in yellow all along the thread path. Prerequisite: • Threading is prepared. (see page 79) > Pull the thread beneath the thread guide plate to the left and up behind the yellow marking. >...

  • Page 83: Threading The Center Coverstitch Needle Thread Cc/Green

    Threading Threading the Center Coverstitch Needle Thread CC/Green The center coverstitch needle thread is marked in green all along the thread path. Prerequisite: • Threading is prepared. (see page 79) > Pull the thread beneath the thread guide plate to the left and up behind the green marking. >...

  • Page 84: Threading The Right Coverstitch Needle Thread Rc/Blue

    Coated or waxed threads may lose some of their coating in the air threader pipes, resulting in permanent blocking of the pipes. Repair by a BERNINA dealer will be necessary. Avoid use of coated or waxed threads. Performing a pulse drive The Pulse drive is a support function, allowing to move the main drive slowly while the covers are open.

  • Page 85: Threading The Looper Threads Ul/Blue, Ll/Red, Cl/Purple

    Threading Pulse drive NOTICE If the air threader pipes are not coupled, the Pulse drive will be performed by pressing the foot control. The needles are brought into the top position and the coupling is complete. Press the foot control again. Threading or activating/deactivating upper looper can be continued.

  • Page 86: Threading The Looper Thread With An Auxiliary Thread

    Threading Unfavorable Stitch Formations NOTICE Too thick looper thread creates high friction in the looper eye and in the air threader pipe. As a result, the machine cannot ensure an optimum stitch formation. It is therefore recommended to choose a thinner thread.

  • Page 87: Circumventing The Air Theader

    Threading Circumventing the air theader Some thick or decorative threads cannot be threaded through the air threader nozzles or don't provide optimal stitch formations when these threads are threaded through the air threader pipes. Alternatively, such threads may be threaded through the air threader circumvention. This reduces the friction in the air threader pipes and results in a lower thread tension.

  • Page 88: Using The Threading Wire

    Damage by improper use of the threading wire NOTICE The air threader pipes may be damaged. Repair by a BERNINA dealer will be necessary. > Insert and pull through the threading wire only in the thread flow direction. Prerequisite: •...

  • Page 89: Changing The Thread

    Threading > Pull the desired looper thread through the threading wire loop. > Pull the end of the threading wire until the looper thread emerges from the eye of the looper. > Place the looper thread under the presser foot to the rear left. 7.4 Changing the Thread Knotting Thick Thread Tying on two thread ends is often used for changing a needle thread or looper thread.

  • Page 90: Changing The Needle Thread

    Threading > Hold both thread ends and pull them apart. Changing the Needle Thread Pulling a Thread Tie through the Needle Eye NOTICE The needle can be bent. A bent needle affects the stitch formation. > Cut the tie in front of the needle eye and thread the needle individually. >...

  • Page 91: Changing The Looper Thread

    Threading Changing the Looper Thread > Cut the thread above the thread cone. > Change the thread cone. > Tie the inserted looper thread to the new thread. > Pull the end of the thread out of the looper eye until the knot emerges. >...

  • Page 92: Sewing Test

    Sewing Test Sewing Test To check the optimal setting, a sewing test should be sewn on a spare piece of the fabric used for your project. The default values of the stitches represent recommendations that work for most standard applications. Depending on the result of the sewing test, fine adjustments for stitch optimization are possible.

  • Page 93: Stitch Optimizer

    Sewing Test > Pull the sewing project to the back left and pull the threads over the thread cutter. – The seam end is secured. > Assess the sewing test and make any necessary adjustments until the stitch setting matches the material combination.

  • Page 94: Practical Overlocking

    Practical Overlocking Practical Overlocking In this chapter the most important applications for a successful sewing project are described. More advanced sewing techniques are described in the BERNINA overlocker manual and can be purchased from authorized BERNINA dealers. 9.1 Securing Overlock Stitches Securing stitches is particularly important when seam ends are not secured by other seams or hems.

  • Page 95: Securing Overlock Stitches

    Practical Overlocking Securing Overlock Stitches > Sew a thread chain of about 10 cm beyond the end of the seam. > Pull the thread chain end through the looper threads using a loop flip or a tapestry needle. Knotting the Overlock chain Knotting the overlock chain is the safest way to prevent the stitch from opening.

  • Page 96: Securing Coverstitches

    Practical Overlocking 9.3 Securing Coverstitches Securing stitches is particularly important when seam ends are not secured by other seams or hems. The stitches are secured when they are overstitched. Securing Cover- and Chainstitches at the Start of the Seam With cover- and chainstitches, the first stitch is automatically secured by the following stitches. Securing the Stitches at the Seam End and Detaching the Thread Chain >...

  • Page 97: How To Undo Coverstitches

    Practical Overlocking 9.4 How to Undo Coverstitches Cover- and chainstitches are loops which are formed by the intertwining of looper thread and needle threadfs. Undoing Coverstitches > On the wrong side of the fabric, pull the looper thread out of the thread chain at the seam end. >...

  • Page 98: Gathering

    Practical Overlocking > After sewing, pull the stabilizer away from the fabric, and in doing so, the needle thread is pulled to the edge of the fabric. – This makes the seam look like the typical hand-stitched blanket stitch. > Wash out the water-soluble stabilizer. 9.6 Gathering Ruffling is a gathering or puckering of a seam.

  • Page 99: Sew Outer Corners

    Practical Overlocking 9.7 Sew Outer Corners How to Sew over a Corner > Set the machine for a 2-, 3- or 4-Thread Overlock. > Sew along the edge of the fabric beyond the corner. > Start a new edge and sew over the previously sewn edge. >...

  • Page 100: Sewing Inner Corners

    Practical Overlocking 9.8 Sewing Inner Corners > Set the machine for a 2- or 3-Thread Overlock. > Draw sewing lines on both sides of the corner about 5 cm long with the fabric pen. > Sew the seam until the knife reaches the corner. >...

  • Page 101: Sewing Inner Curves

    Practical Overlocking 9.9 Sewing Inner Curves Inner curves appear on necklines, facings and armholes. Time-consuming clipping or trimming can be avoided by overlocking the fabric edge. > Set the machine for a 3- or 4-Thread Overlock. > Carefully straighten the rounded part while sewing. 9.10 Sew Outer Curves and Circles >...

  • Page 102: Sewing A Hem

    Practical Overlocking 9.11 Sewing a Hem The coverstitch is ideal for hems on elastic and knitted material. > Set the machine for the coverstitch. > Mark the hem depth (wrong side on wrong side) and press the hem. > Place the fabric under the presser foot, right side up. >...

  • Page 103: Care And Maintenance

    Care and Maintenance 10 Care and Maintenance 10.1 Firmware Selecting a language By selecting one of the languages listed, all displays and assistance are changed accordingly. (see page 25) Information on the firmware This screen allows the dealer to gather important information about the machine. «Firmware Version»...

  • Page 104: Restore Factory Settings

    Care and Maintenance Restore factory settings The factory settings are used to reset the software to the delivery state. All saved data will be deleted and cannot be restored. If the data from the personal memory should still be available, it must be backed up to the USB stick.

  • Page 105: Updating Firmware

    In general, data from the Personal Memory and altered settings are automatically transferred during a firmware update. Data loss can be avoided by backing up data and settings to the BERNINA USB stick before the update and importing them back to the machine after the update.

  • Page 106: Calibrate Screen

    NOTICE If the software has not been updated or has not been fully updated, the machine cannot be used. > Remove the BERNINA USB stick only once the update has been successfully completed. > Import the saved data, if available.

  • Page 107: Machine

    Care and Maintenance 10.2 Machine Cleaning the Machine The service life of the machine depends on the care and maintenance. Based on normal household use, an annual service at the authorized BERNINA dealer is recommended. Recommended aids: • Damp Cloth • Brush •...

  • Page 108: Cleaning The Air Threader Pipes

    The air threader pump may be damaged permanently if liquids infiltrate the system. A repair by the authorized BERNINA dealer is required. > Keep liquids way from the air threader nozzles. > Regularly lubricate recommended areas with a drop of the supplied BERNINA.

  • Page 109: Errors And Faults

    Errors and Faults 11 Errors and Faults 11.1 Troubleshooting Fault Cause Solution Screen reacts poorly to touch The screen is misaligned. > Calibrate the screen. (see page 106) The stitch is irregular The thread tension is incorrect. > Adjust the thread tension. (see page 70) The needle size is incorrect.
  • Page 110 Errors and Faults Fault Cause Solution Thread breakage Threading is incorrect. > Rethread the machine. (see page 78) The needle is bent. > Insert a new needle. (see page 41) The thread tension is incorrect. > Adjust the thread tension. (see page 78) The upper thread is tangled.

  • Page 111: Storage And Disposal

    If the machine is no longer required, dispose of it in an environmentally friendly way in accordance with the national guidelines or take it to the nearest BERNINA specialist shop. Do not dispose of the machine in the household waste.

  • Page 112: Technical Data

    Technical data 13 Technical data Name Value Unit Number of stitches Number of loopers Number of needle positions 1 − 5 Needle system ELx705 CF Needle size 70 − 90 (10 − 14) Differential feed 0,7 − 2 Maximum fabric thickness 6 (0,41) mm (in) Stitch length...

  • Page 113: Index

    Index Index Accessories Box Extension With Accessories ......  25 Data backup ...............   105 Accessories box standard with accessories......  24 Dealer Address ..............  103 Accessories storage...............   16 Defective needle ..............  58 Activate/Deactivate Functions..........  26 Deleting a stitch..............  66 Adjusting the Screen Brightness ..........  50 Differential Feed ..............
  • Page 114 Index Power Switch................   17 Presser foot lifter ..............  18 Importing data..............  105 Presser foot presser wheel ............   18 Information on the Firmware Version ......  51,  103 Presser Foot Pressure ............  76 Presser foot release button ...........   18 Presser foot shaft ..............  14 Knee Lifter ..............
  • Page 115 Index Thread deflection fingers ............  13 Thread guide on the headframe ...........   13 Thread guide on the needle holder ........  14 Thread guiding plate ............  13 Thread stand.................   18 Thread take-up lever cover............   13 Thread take-up lever guide ...........   13 Thread tension fine adjustment..........  13 Threader Cover ............
  • Page 116 BERNINA International AG | CH-8266 Steckborn Switzerland | www.bernina.com | © Copyright by BERNINA International AG 1082415.00A.04 2023-10...

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