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Extreme Flight RC YAK-54 AFR Instruction Manual

Extreme flight rc yak-54 afr model aircraft
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110 inch YAK-54 ARF
Instruction Manual

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Summary of Contents for Extreme Flight RC YAK-54 AFR

  • Page 1 110 inch YAK-54 ARF Instruction Manual...
  • Page 2 THIS IS NOT A TOY! Serious injury, destruction of property, or even death may result from the misuse of this product. Extreme Flight RC is providing you, the buyer with a very high quality model aircraft component kit, from which you, the buyer, will assemble a flying model.
  • Page 3 100cc class engines. Also included is a set of protective wing and stab bags and a canopy/hatch cover to keep your investment looking great season after season. The performance ability of the Extreme Flight RC Yak-54 is phenomenal! With its low weight and enormous control...
  • Page 4 attainable. The black covering may require a little bit more attention than other colors due to its tendency to absorb heat. 3. By the time the Yak arrives at your door step it will have been handled by a lot of people. Occasionally there are small dings or imperfections on some of the surfaces.
  • Page 5 The bonded sealing washers are used when mounting the cowl and canopy/hatch. When the bolts used to retain the canopy/hatch and cowl are tightened against the bonded sealing washer, the rubber on the washer compresses, preventing the bolt from backing out. The rubber on the washer also protects the surface of the cowl. Tighten the bolts until the rubber compresses, but do not allow the metal part of the washer to make contact with the cowl.
  • Page 6 following picture. Carefully insert the control horns into the slots and push down until the base plate is flush with the control surface. You may need to trim the edge of the base plate to prevent it fro overhanging the bevel. Use a fine tipped felt marker to trace the outline of the base plate and remove the control horn assembly.
  • Page 7 4. Use some denatured alcohol to remove any residue or oils from the composite control horns and base plate. If you wish to paint the control horns for a more finished appearance now is the time to do so. Use some fine sandpaper to roughen the portion of the control horns that will be inserted for gluing.
  • Page 8 .5. Insert the horns and push them into the slots until they are seated flush with the base plate and the base plate is flush with the control surface. Insert one of the 3mm bolts through the 2 control horns as shown to insure proper alignment.
  • Page 9 TIP: you may coat the pin section only with petroleum jelly (or something similar) to keep epoxy from drying in the pin section. Be sure not to coat anything but the pin (center) section as that would hinder the epoxy from curing at full strength.
  • Page 10 with a strip of Ultracote or Blenderm tape. Be sure to fully deflect the control surface when applying the tape or Ultracote to allow full deflection once the gap is sealed. 10. Use a sharp #11 blade to remove the covering from the slot for the elevator servo control horn.

  • Page 12: Wing Assembly

    NOTE: the methods used to install the control horns, servos, hinges and linkages is virtually the same for the ailerons and to some degree the rudder. Wing Assembly 16. The assembly process for the wing is almost identical to that of the stab/elevator.
  • Page 13 use blue Loctite on ALL bolts! 20. Before beginning the next assembly process, take a few minutes with your sealing iron on a medium heat setting and go over all seams, paying special attention to thin trim stripes and the seam at the leading edge of the wing.

  • Page 14: Rudder Assembly

    Rudder Assembly 21. Locate the rudder, the rudder control horns and the 2 slotted base plates. Use a sharp #11 blade to remove the covering from the 2 pre-cut slots in the rudder.
  • Page 15 22. Trial fit the 2 servo horns through the base plate and into their proper position flush against the rudder surface. You may need to trim the front of the base plate so that it does not overhang the hinge line as shown in the photo.

  • Page 16: Tail Wheel Assembly

    Tail Wheel assembly 24. Locate the bag with all the tail wheel parts. Take the main carbon fiber gear leg and mount the support bushing with the nylon insert nut on top and tighten. The metal portion that the wheel fits onto, locate that, the top tiller and 1 wheel collar.
  • Page 18 26. Feel along the bottom of the aft bottom fuselage area and you will notice two holes under the covering. Open these holes and position the carbon gear leg over them and mount with the supplied machine bolts. Now locate the springs and mount them within each outer hole of the tillers.

  • Page 19: Fuselage Assembly

    Fuselage Assembly 27. We’ll begin by installing the landing gear. Locate the carbon fiber main landing gear. Insert the gear into the slot on the bottom of the fuselage and center it in the slot. Use the pre-drilled holes as guides and drill through the plywood landing gear plate and aluminum mounting bracket.
  • Page 20 31. Locate the 2 wheel spats and 2 plywood mounting plates. Use sandpaper to scuff the inside of the spat for better glue adhesion. Drill a hole as shown in each ply plate about ¼” below center. This will allow the spat to be positioned slightly higher than center to prevent it from making contact with the ground.
  • Page 21 32. Glue the ply mounting plate to the spats as shown with 30 minute epoxy. Once dry drill through the fiberglass spat at the location of the hole in the plywood plate. We chose to use a ½” drill bit for this so that the spat will fit over the hexagon portion of the axle.
  • Page 22 34. Next let’s install the engine. We have made this process very easy. The center and offset marks have been scribed into the front of the firewall with a laser.
  • Page 23 35. Most manufacturers will provide a mounting template for their engines. If you do not have a template, you can measure the distance between your engine’s mounting holes and determine the center and align with the lines on the firewall. The line to the right of the center line is the proper reference point to use at it provides the proper offset to accommodate for right engine thrust.
  • Page 24 very easy. Mount the servo in the hole on the bottom of the engine box and use the 2mm pushrod, and white ball link to fabricate the throttle linkage. Cut the pushrod to length, then solder a clevis or threaded rod end (not included) to the servo end.
  • Page 25 .38. Assemble the included Dubro 32 oz tank. Make sure to use the gas conversion stopper and Tygon tubing for all plumbing. Use nylon cable ties or velcro to secure the tank to the tank tray. The tank should butt up against the wing tube and.
  • Page 26 42. Locate the lite ply mount, there are two of them but we will use one in this installation. We decided to put the pipe mount just aft of the center of the pipe. I glued the mount in and used some scrap tri stock for additional bracing.
  • Page 30 4.5 inch arm for the pull-pull system. I highly recommend the 4.5 inch offset arm from SWB Manufacturing. If using “ganged” servos, we recommend a 3” Straight arm from SWB on the second servo. 48. Here is where we installed our switches on each side of the fuselage.
  • Page 31 49. If you plan to use the supplied louver plate in the front of the cowl now is the time to install it. Remove the lip from the circumference of the louver plate with a pair of scissors. You will also want to open the louvers in front of the engine cylinders for adequate cooling.
  • Page 32 pictures for single and twin cylinder installations. TIP: For a twin cylinder, I cut one side then use the cut out piece as a sort of template for cutting the other cylinder. This assures uniform holes.
  • Page 33 50. Slide the cowl into position. You should allow at least 1 inch clearance between the cowl and spinner backplate for maximum prop efficiency. This means the rear of the cowl will extend beyond the F1 former by about ⅜” to ½”. TIP: I like to place a strip of Blenderm tape across the top front of the hatch that will fit under the cowl to keep the paint from getting scuffed.
  • Page 34 with a 3mm bolt and washer inserted through the mounting tabs and into the pre-mounted blind nuts. Make sure to use a drop of blue Loctite on these bolts. 54. The canopy is retained by the (4) 3mm bolts and bonded sealing washers.
  • Page 39 This completes the assembly of the 110 inch Yak. As a final step I recommend you clean the entire aircraft with glass cleaner, then apply a coat of spray-on wax and buff the finish to a high gloss. My favorite product for this is Eagle One Wet Wax AS-U-DRY,...

  • Page 40: Control Surface Throws

    available in the automotive section of most Wal-Marts, K-marts, Sears, Targets, etc. People often ask me at trade shows how I get the planes to look so shiny, this is my secret. You may wish to apply all of your graphics before applying the coat of wax. The wax helps to protect the covering and paint and makes clean up easy, as oil residue can simply be wiped away.
  • Page 41 The Yak exhibits very little coupling in knife edge flight. There is virtually coupling when using the small amount of rudder needed for point rolls or slow rolls. When flying slow high alpha knife edge you may experience a small amount of coupling.
  • Page 42 destruction of your Yak. Reserve full power for vertical lines and always have the engine at idle when the nose is pointed down. Inspect your plane thoroughly after each flying session, looking for loose screws, fatigued or worn servo gears, sloppy linkages or loose covering. With proper maintenance, your Yak will provide you with many seasons of aerobatic excitement.