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Extreme Flight RC Aces High Republic P-47D Thunderbolt Instruction Manual

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Republic P-47D
Thunderbolt
Copyright 2019 Extreme Flight RC
1

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Summary of Contents for Extreme Flight RC Aces High Republic P-47D Thunderbolt

  • Page 1 Republic P-47D Thunderbolt Copyright 2019 Extreme Flight RC...
  • Page 2 Congratulations on your purchase of the AcesHigh P-47D Thunderbolt! In 1939, Republic Aviation was working on fighters with a turbocharged Pratt & Whitney radial in a plane called the P-43 Lancer. US Army Air Corps liked the project developments, and through developing requirements, the P-47 Thunderbolt was born.
  • Page 3 While at Ohio State, Vernon briefly dated a girl named Jeanne. However, later She ended up falling for his brother Bud and were married. There was obviously no bad blood between Vernon and his brother, as he named his P47 after Jeanne.
  • Page 4 Extreme Flight RC, Ltd. guarantees this kit to be free of defects in materials and workmanship for a period of 30 DAYS from the date of purchase. All warranty claims must be accompanied by the original dated receipt. This warranty is extended to the original purchaser of the aircraft kit only.

  • Page 5: Tips For Success

    Tips for Success  Before starting assembly, take a few minutes to read the entire instruction manual to familiarize yourself with the assembly process.  Use a fresh bottle of thin CA with a fine glue tip when attaching the CA hinges. This will ensure that the proper amount of CA wicks into the hinge and surrounding balsa wood and creates a proper bond between the wood and hinges.
  • Page 6 Aces High P-47D Assembly Manual Addendum Thanks for your purchase of the Aces High P-47D ARF! Since writing the assembly manual we've discovered a couple of key points that will enhance your enjoyment of the model: 1. It is highly recommended that the wing halves be glued together with epoxy once all electronics have been installed.

  • Page 7: Let's Begin

    LET’S BEGIN !!! Hinging the aileron. Remove the aileron, and place some pins into the center of the hinges. This will prevent the hinges from pushing into only one side of the control surface of the wing. Insert the aileron into the wing, and remove the pins.
  • Page 8 Insert hinge into the flap. Wipe with denatured alcohol (methylated spirits) to clean away any excess glue and ensure the hinge moves freely before the glue fully cures. Now add epoxy glue onto the other side of the hinges and into the receiving holes in the wing.
  • Page 9 Note: The curved horns are for the ailerons, and the triangle shaped horns are for the flaps. Doing one control surface at a time, mix up some epoxy, and use a tool/stick to pace into the holes of the control surface. Wipe some epoxy onto the sanded tab area of the horn, and insert into control surface.
  • Page 10 Center your servo using your radio. Place a servo arm on the servo so that at center it sticks out of the hole at right angles to the servo mount door. Run the servo wire through the wing and screw into place. 1 inch/25mm arm is ideal for ailerons.
  • Page 11 Length of the pushrod should position the aileron servo arm to be perpendicular to the wing when the aileron is at center. For flaps, the surface should be level with the wing, with the servo at the end of its travel. Using a 2.5mm hex driver, remove the mounting screws from the retract units.
  • Page 12 Using a 1.5mm hex driver, remove the set screws (x4) from the base of each side of the landing gear. Place a drop of blue thread locker to the set screw and screw back into place Bolt landing gear back into the mount blocks.
  • Page 13 Using 1.5mm hex driver, remove the wheel collar from the landing gear, remove the wheel. Add blue thread lock to the set screw. Connect the retract unit to the landing gear controller, and the controller to your receiver’s gear channel. If you only have one wing complete at this point, now would be the time to repeat the steps for the opposite wing.
  • Page 14 Rough up the control horn with sand paper and apply epoxy. Note that the elevator horn goes on the left hand side underneath the aircraft. Add epoxy glue to the hole in the elevator and insert the control horn. Clean away any excess glue with a paper towel soaked in denatured alcohol (methylated spirits).
  • Page 15 Use a rule or tape measure to make sure it is centered. To make sure that the stabilizer is straight, measure from corner of the stabilizer to the rear of the canopy bay. Do this on each side and adjust the angle of the stabilizer until even.
  • Page 16 Insert the horn on the right hand side of the rudder. Insert pins into the hinges of the rudder, and insert into the fin. Align the rudder so that the scheme and the rudder lines up properly. Deflect the rudder, and add a couple of drops of thin CA to each side of the hinges.
  • Page 17 Using drill, screw the ball links onto the end of the pushrods, and insert them into the model. Using 2mm bolts, nuts, and washers, attach them to the control horns. Note: The longer pushrod is for the rudder side, and the shorter pushrod is for the elevator.
  • Page 18 Tail Wheel: Position the bracket so that the center of the pivot is over the hinge line as shown. Screw the bracket into place with the two screws provided. Screw steering arm into the base of the rudder as Shown. Note: This is our recommendation for a practical and simple setup.
  • Page 19 Steering Option 1 Note: Additional pushrod not included. Assembly simply pushrod with ball link and z-bend, bent to use the same control horn as rudder. Can be hidden with a little silver paint. Steering Option 2 Note: Additional pushrod and horn not included.
  • Page 20 Connect the motor to your speed control, battery and radio system to test the direction of the motor. Switch two motor wires if not turning the correct direction. Thread the battery wires and radio wire through the former. Mount the speed control to the side of the motor box so that it receives good air flow.
  • Page 21 Tape some strips of paper or thin card to the sides of the fuselage so that they can reach the cowling mount blocks. Mark locations of the center of the cowling mount blocks as shown. Put the canopy on the model, and place a couple of layers of masking tape to the front.
  • Page 22 One at a time, drill a hole for the screws with a fine drill bit. Screw in cowling screw. Repeat drilling and screws for other cowling screws. Note: Between each screw, check alignment of cowling to ensure it has not shifted. For final radio setup, mounts are pre-cut for optional wing servo connectors as shown.
  • Page 23 Wing Cannons: place a piece of tape on the leading edge of the wing, and take your time to line up and mark positions in front of the shell casing vents (the four black rectangles underneath the wing), as shown. Drill pilot holes and drill to size for the carbon cannon tubes.
  • Page 24 Trim excess around turbocharger exhaust details with a knife or scissors. Sand the edges to clean them up so they can sit flush to the fuselage. Note: it is easiest to treat as two separate pieces as shown in these manual photos.
  • Page 25 Tape the turbo to the fuselage in place with some painter's tape. Shown here, I used some scrap wood under the tape to help hold down the sides as the glue cures. Let the glue cure fully before removing the tape (overnight is a good idea) Handy tip: Sanding the parts to fit the fuselage nicely, especially the...
  • Page 26 Setup Center of Gravity Recommended range for maiden flight is 4 5/8” to 4 7/8” (115mm – 124mm) measured from the leading edge where the wing meets the fuselage. For convenience, a handy way to balance the plane without the canopy is the photo below: Hang the model from the side rails using a scrap piece of wood cut to length (about 6.5”...

  • Page 27: Final Steps

    Flaps Mid Flap: ~25 degrees – 6% down elevator mix Full Flap: ~40 degrees – 10% down elevator mix Flying with flaps Because an elevator mix is required for level flight with the flaps down, it is advised to not use the flaps for the maiden flight.