Delta 46-756 Instruction Manual page 17

CUTTING A SHOULDER
Use the parting tool first to reduce the wood to within
1/16" of the required shoulder and diameter (Fig. 43).
Clean the waste stock out with the gouge (Fig. 44),
then use the skew for the actual cutting of the shoulder
(Figs. 45A and 45B), which is a duplication of squaring
an end. The skew then makes the horizontal cut, but in
a different manner from plain cylinder work. If the shoul-
der is long, use the ordinary skew position for the outer
portion of the cut. At the angle between the horizontal
and vertical cuts, the heel of the chisel moves into a
position tangent between the skew and the cylinder
(Fig. 46). In this position, raise the handle of the chisel
slightly to allow it to cut while the tool moves along the
rest. Use a very light cut to produce smooth work. The
heel of the skew can be used for making the entire cut, if
desired, but the cut, whether in this position or any other
position, should not be picked up directly at the end of
the stock. Horizontal cuts started directly from the end
of the work will have a tendency to bite into the wood,
often ruining the entire piece. Always run off the end
and not into it. Where a very short shoulder makes this
impossible, use the skew in a flat scraping position. If
the cutting technique is used, engage only with the heel
of skew in a very light cut.
CUTTING SMALL BEADS
Beads can be scraped or cut. Using the spear chisel
is the easiest method of scraping, and works to best
advantage on beads separated by parting tool cuts
(Fig. 46). Scraping is slower than cutting and is not as
clean, but it has the advantage of protecting the work
from long gashes.
Cutting beads quickly and accurately with the small
skew is one of the most difficult lathe operations. Various
working methods can be used . The first cut is a vertical
incision at the point where the two curved surfaces will
eventually come together. Make this cut with either heel
or toe of skew. Fig. 47 shows the use of the toe. Place
the skew at right angles to the work . The chisel is flat
on its side at the start, and is evenly rotated through the
successive stages of the cut (Figs. 48, 49 and 50). At
the same time, the chisel is pulled slightly backward to
maintain the cutting point. The entire cut is made with
the heel of chisel. The opposite side of the bead is cut
in the same manner, one cut serving to produce the full
shape in each instance. This action produces beads that
are beautifully smooth and polished, and the technique
is well worth mastering.
Fig. 43
Fig. 45
Fig. 47
Fig. 49
17
Fig. 44
Fig. 46
Fig. 46
Fig. 48
Fig. 50