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SCALE-PARKFLYER Dornier Do 24 Building Instruction

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SCALE-PARKFLYER0
Depron-Modelle für Individualisten
Dornier
Do 24
Building Instruction

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Summary of Contents for SCALE-PARKFLYER Dornier Do 24

  • Page 1 SCALE-PARKFLYER0 Depron-Modelle für Individualisten Dornier Do 24 Building Instruction...
  • Page 2 : 50 1& thrust ( 20A ), 10 minutes ° The Dornier Do 24 is built from 6mm frames and covered with 3mm Depron. The fuselage halves are built individually, so a complex heling is not required. The Do24 kit is one of the more complex Depron models. But the construction effort is worth it.
  • Page 3 I can offer you and subsequent customers the most satisfactory product possible. info@scale-parkflyer.de General: The building material DEPRON is a very light building material that is normally used in house construction. In hardware stores you can find it in the wallpaper departments under the name "underwallpaper"...
  • Page 4 The Partlist: Do24 Po& Bezeichnung Anzahl Material 6 mm Depron Heling Rumpfseite Heling Rumpf 6 mm Depron Rumpf Seitenteil 3 mm Depron R1-R4 Rumpf-halbspanten je 2 3 mm Depron R5-R20 Rumpf-halbspanten je 2 6 mm Depron R21 & R22 Rumpf-halbspanten je 2 3 mm Depron R23 &...
  • Page 5 Building Instruction: Fuselage: 1. First, the heling (H 1), consisting of the front and rear sections, is assembled. The kit contains 4 of these assemblies. 2 x 6 mm heling sections are required for each side of the fuselage. Therefore, glue two together to give a total thickness of 12 mm. The second is put to one side.
  • Page 6 The frames consist of 3 or 6 mm Depron. For frames 5 and 8, insert them so that the label faces the cockpit (fuselage opening)
  • Page 7 4. Also insert the auxiliary frames ( Rl la, R13a, R14a )
  • Page 9 5. Insert the support ( 2 ) for the horizontal tail unit...
  • Page 10 Now the longitudinal stringers are inserted. First insert a test piece without glue. Since it takes a little longer to glue all the stringers in place, I would use a thin layer of epoxy resin to glue them in. 7. Sanding the outer contour of the frames and stringers. Before planking, all transitions must be sanded so that the planking lies cleanly on the structure and can be glued.
  • Page 12 8. Now you can take the 12mm heling. Use double-sided adhesive tape (be careful, only use small pieces! Otherwise, when you separate the fuselage later, material could be torn out of the fuselage) to fix the fuselage to the heling and place the heling on a flat surface.
  • Page 13 Planking of the hull side: Planking the hull is the biggest challenge for many, but it can be done in just a few days. By creating the two halves of the hull, the Heling makes it possible to produce this very complex hull quickly and without distortion.
  • Page 14 "Depron label". Of course, a gap can be filled with for example. Moldofil repair filler". Here too, I recommend applying the planking with UHU POR wet on wet and laying it down immediately. Only secure it with your fingers or needles until the UHU POR sets. If you wait too long, the UHU POR sets and it would immediately get stuck on first contact, regardless of your current position.
  • Page 17 When the underwater hull has been completely glued on, as with other planking joints, it may be necessary to sand the shape before an adjacent planking can be attached.
  • Page 18 The transition from the fuselage to the horizontal stabilizer should be glued in steps, as the strong bending occurs in all directions.
  • Page 19 Glue the side and bottom first. When dry, knead the upper part until the shape is achieved.
  • Page 20 Let UHU POR dry, then pull the planking over the frames, done.
  • Page 23 Carefully detach the fuselage half from the rudder using a sharp cutter knife. Now the planking can be separated flush with the R1 and sanded.
  • Page 24 The hull can be roughly sanded. IMPORTANT: from now on, no edge below the waterline may be blunt, all edges must remain sharp at the end of the build or be made sharp. Only then will the hull easily come off the water surface when starting. Prepare the two plywood frames SP11 and SP13 for insertion into the hull.
  • Page 25 On the subject of wiring: Now you should decide whether you want to adopt the concept described in the instructions, or whether you want to position the components differently. In the construction description, only the flight battery is located in the fuselage opening/cockpit. The advantage is that it is easy to remove and there is enough space, no tangled cables.
  • Page 26 The servo cables for the rudder (the rudder gets a servo in the vertical stabilizer) can be made/soldered as a "V-cable" in the tail), the elevator gets a central servo in the fuselage cutout. Both cables should be long enough so that both ends protrude sufficiently from the fuselage.
  • Page 29 Assembly of the support floats: paper template is included to draw the shape of the support float on the hull. This gives you a better overview during assembly and allows you to orient yourself better in the shape.
  • Page 30 Insert the spars and ribs and glue them together. For SW1 and SW2, separate the spar area from the ribs.
  • Page 31 The nose strip is finished with a square strip, which is later sanded into shape after the planking. 22. First only apply the lower planking, the upper one is not closed yet.
  • Page 32 cockpit opening The middle bars can be removed (see red marking). Place the front and rear panels on frames 5 and 8 as marked. The plywood cover can be glued on.
  • Page 34 wing construction Wing center section: Glue on the two 6 mm spars T1 and T2. Then glue all the ribs into position. The marked areas of the spar are cut out first. Pay attention to the markings A & B. Do not glue the underside of the front end pieces of the rib to the wing floor yet, only to the spar.
  • Page 36 The plywood ribs can now be glued into position. (R2 / R5) The plywood ribs between the wing center section and the outer surfaces can be added later. Aluminum and CFRP plug connection: The following dimensions are required: - 2 X Aluminiumrohr 7/6,1 mm, 576 mm, Mittelteil - 2 X Aluminiumrohr 7/6,1 mm, 100 mm, Außen vorne - 2 X Aluminiumrohr 7/6,1 mm, 350 mm, Außen hinten - 1 X CFK Stab 6/5 mm, 780 mm...
  • Page 37 Now the wing can be put onto the supports for testing. If you haven't already done so, cut out the marked area on the wing base The plywood support is flush with the underside of the wing. Set the aileron servos to neutral via the transmitter and adjust the rudder horn at a right angle downwards.
  • Page 38 The wing must remain flat on the table during planking to ensure a warp-free wing. Knead the planking a little and roughly mark all the bonding points. Coat both components with UHU Por at the bonding points and allow to dry. Then first place the planking on the main spar and press it on, then press the planking backwards and then forwards.
  • Page 39 Sand the planking to the shape of the wing bottom. The plywood rib can now be glued on flush. This also shows the shape for sanding the planking. Sand down the trailing edge so that 2 - 3 mm remain. Sand everything flat at the front so that the leading edge can be attached.
  • Page 40 Glue the nose strip and adjust the shape to the plywood ribs. Also sand the leading edge of the center piece.
  • Page 41 My recommendation is to position the receiver in the middle of the wing with access from above. The advantage is that the cable lengths are short and only the flight battery is located under the cockpit opening. In the event of water ingress, no sensitive electronics are affected.
  • Page 42 A wing lock can now be used to fix the wings in flight. The wing can be placed on the fuselage so that the side struts between the support floats and the wing can now be adjusted. We recommend using 7 mm aluminum tubes for this. Rough length 300 mm.
  • Page 44 Assembling the horizontal tail assembly: 43. Sand the vertical tail assembly a little (leaving the front edge, top and bottom semi-circular, leaving the rear edge square). Leave the front edge of the rudder square, round off all other edges. 44. Fit a 6 gram servo onto the inside of the vertical tail assembly so that it can be inserted flush.
  • Page 46 To stiffen the HLW, use 6xl mm CFRP rods; to do this, cut a slot in both components as marked. Furthermore, use the cutter knife to cut out a "V" for the rudder servo cable as a cable channel. Cut out the cutout for the elevator servo; the servo should be flush with the top of the horizontal tail unit.
  • Page 47 Prepare cabling to close tail unit Sealing and gluing the horizontal tail assembly The leading edge of the horizontal tail unit should now be sanded semi-circular.
  • Page 48 When gluing the two vertical stabilizers, make sure that they are symmetrically aligned on the HLW. For stiffening, a 6x6 Depron strip should be glued in the transition.. Here too, insert the two elevators with hinges, but do not glue them yet. Now sand the elevators a little.
  • Page 49 Bend a 2 mm undercarriage wire into a "U" so that both rudders can be controlled by one servo...
  • Page 50 Insert the wire and make sure that both rudders are absolutely parallel to each other. If necessary, readjust them after inserting. Now is the time to glue all components together, including the rudder. Before the horizontal tail assembly can be firmly mounted on the fuselage, complete the wiring.
  • Page 51 Only now can the fully assembled wing be placed on the fuselage and the side auxiliary struts firmly inserted. Now align the wing with the outer surfaces inserted geometrically with the fuselage. Once this has been measured, glue the wing firmly to the plywood supports and also the auxiliary struts on the side.
  • Page 52 Next, the horizontal tail unit can be glued firmly to the fuselage.
  • Page 53 The transition can be adjusted with a strip of Depron. Also the still open area where the connecting wire runs with Depron seal and sandVerschleifen Leftover pieces of 7 mm aluminum tubing can be used to stiffen the horizontal tail unit. Both sides are set slightly into the Depron and glued with epoxy.
  • Page 54 Lay the servo cables from the tail unit and the servo cables from the three controllers in the wing (receiver slot). The servo cables and the flight battery cables run upwards along the wing struts. The Depron struts are included for covering the cables. To simplify things, you can of course use one or more plastic tubes to hold the cables.
  • Page 55 Engine nacelles The engine nacelles on the outside are identical, the middle one has different dimensions, pay attention to the numbering when assembling.
  • Page 57 To align the nacelles, make markings on the top of the wing: - 1 X central wing for the middle gondola, - 2 X outside from the end of the middle section: 5 cm Here you can see the opening in the upper side of the wing as access to the receiver position.
  • Page 58 Just fix the plywood supports in place and use them to align all three gondolas so that all three are aligned perpendicular to the fuselage. Now glue the Depron gondolas firmly to the wing. Mount the motors centrally on the plywood supports and glue the unit firmly to the Depron gondolas.
  • Page 59 When making the couling, cut free the rotating area of the motors, slide them on and check that they are correctly seated. Since the flight controllers are in the couling, connect all cables and place the controllers there.
  • Page 60 cockpit and fuselage opening First assemble the frame.
  • Page 61 Place the frame in the fuselage to adjust it. Here you can also see the plywood frame, which serves as a water barrier to prevent water from entering the battery compartment and thus the interior of the fuselage. Water that runs through the gap in the cockpit canopy cannot penetrate into the interior.
  • Page 62 water barrier battery tray Put the deep-drawn cockpit on and adjust it. Cut off any excess material. Canopy fasteners can be used as a closure: Example:...
  • Page 65 Final assembly: Depending on the choice of drive motor and flight battery, the flight battery is in a different position. Weigh the model with all components to determine the center of gravity. The center of gravity is from the leading edge of the wing at: 100 mm Details and painting.
  • Page 66 Painting: For the finish I recommend water-based paints. Depron, lightly sanded, can be easily rolled out using a soft paint roller to create a contour-free surface. If you want to achieve a little more stability, you should apply parquet varnish from "Aqua Clou"...
  • Page 67 1. RC system: 2. Rudder deflections: Height 25 mm, side 20 mm and cross 15 mm to each side. 3. Center of gravity: The center of gravity is 100 mm from the leading edge of the wing. 4. Battery attachment: e.g. using Velcro under the canopy Note for the motor control: When using multiple BEC controllers, as in the case of the Do 24, the red positive cable is only required for one controller.
  • Page 68 Construction inquiries, advice, feedback or suggestions: I would be delighted to receive feedback from you by email about construction, impressions or photos for the customer gallery that can be viewed in the shop. Of course, I can help with construction problems by phone or email. I will be happy to call you back if you send me an email.
  • Page 69 Attention: Any rotating components on model aircrafts (propeller, main and tail rotor blades) are an ever present danger of injury to operators and spectators. This radio-controlled model aircraft is a technically complex device, which must be built exactly in accordance to the building instructions and operated and maintained with care by a responsible person.

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