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building instructions The model of the DC3 as a "cartoon variant" is part of the Fatty Season, which is available here in the shop. The models are simple in construction and allow a quick construction progress. The wing for example. consists of only a few components. The selected "KF" profile thus facilitates the construction.
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kit contents: All necessary Depron components can be found in the Depron parts set. Furthermore, the main spar, the chassis carrier and engine mount made of plywood are included. A template for bending the landing gear wire and PVC molded radial engine dummies.
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If you notice any inaccuracies or missing components, please contact me in order to be able to offer you and subsequent customers a product that is as satisfactory as possible. info@scale-parkflyer.de General: The building material DEPRON is a very light building material that is normally used in house construction.
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The BOM: Part. Nr. description Number material Fuselage stringer side up 6 mm Depron Fuselage stringer side down 6 mm Depron center torso stringer 6 mm Depron S1 - S 12 Fuselage frames each 1 6 mm Depron HLW1 center tailplane 6 mm Depron HLW 2 Tailplane down / up...
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Building instructions: The engine nacelles: 1. The motor nacelles U1-U9 & O1 - O10 are manufactured in layers. There are a total of 4 assemblies, consisting of an upper and lower nacelle, which are located above or below the wing. For both sides.
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There should be a 10 mm bar at the front, and the bars on the inside can now be cut out.
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The wing: First, the heling is assembled from parts T4, T4A & T4B and glued.
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The plywood beam is centered in T1 and glued on a flat surface. Glue on T2 (3 parts), paying attention to the markings on T1.
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Glue T2 left and right to T1 as well, see photo.
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Sand the adhesive surfaces of the Depron components at an angle until they lie snugly against each other. Now glue the wing ends to the heling.
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Now all the cables for the aileron servos, main power cable and controller servo cable can be placed in the cable ducts provided. 2. Make a small cut for the aileron servo wires as shown in the photo. 1.5 mm2 silicone cables are sufficient for the power supply Laying the cables for the nacelles without glue can later be pulled through the wing as required for the necessary lengths.
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When all cables are inserted, close the wing with T3 left / right and middle.
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Fuselage assembly: Insert the frames S1 to S12 into the upper and lower stringers R1 & R2. Then plug in the side stringers S3.
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Sand down all stringers and frames so that the subsequent planking lies flat. Planking: Important information about planking. Templates are included for all areas of the planking, which greatly simplifies the necessary cutting. Of course, no 100% guarantee can be given that one or the other piece will deviate slightly from the shape and may have to be cut again.
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The following order is recommended: See photo order: Please only plank these areas first:...
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6Use 3 mm Depron strips as an auxiliary adhesive surface.
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If the windows are to be fitted with clear film/PVC, use the template. The windows can later be closed with 0.3 mm clear PVC film...
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All other planking, if so, please just close it first.
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Bow Tip: Components A -G Glue the individual layers together according to the glue line.
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Attach the tip of the fuselage using double-sided tape or a few drops of glue. Then grind. Then remove the tip of the fuselage again. This is used as battery access and can be mounted on the fuselage using magnets and pins.
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The tail units: tailplane: Insert hinges in HLW1 and the rudders. So that only one servo can be used, use a 6 mm pine wood, CFRP tube or aluminum tube to connect both rudders. Then put on the 3 mm planking on both sides.
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rudder: Cut out the stringers and spars from the pre-drawn Depron sheet. Slightly convex shape the rudder planking. The markings should always be visible on the inside.
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A 6X1 CFRP rod, length 430 mm, is now glued to the spar for reinforcement. The CFRP rod sits behind the H1 spar. To do this, pierce the ribs. Starting at rib SL2.
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The rudder servo can be placed in the section shown. Now the second tail unit side can be glued on. Pay attention to a straight flight so that there is no distortion in the tail unit. Cut out servo area. Close the rudder immediately and connect it with hinges.
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Wing Mount: The plywood reinforcement is basically inserted into the hull, as shown in the photo. The plastic nuts are used to screw the wing with M6 plastic screws.
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Depending on the screw connection used, drill out the pre- drilled holes until the sleeves fit. Note: Try inserting the plywood parts, the screws should lie directly on the wing plywood spar for optimal power transmission. The milled slot points in the direction of the bow. A detent at the rear of the wing centers the wing on the fuselage.
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Insert the wing, center it. Cut the stringer a little free so that the pin goes into the bulkhead without jamming. For reinforcement, glue a piece of plywood with the corresponding hole to the frame so that the hole doesn't tear out.
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Guide tubes, here 7X6 mm and two reinforcement plates can be used through the wing for a wear-free screw connection.
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Insert and glue the plywood panels. Make sure the battery tray fits snugly between them. Insert the wing and align it geometrically with the fuselage. Then mark the holes for the two screws.
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The plates rest on the frame. The battery tray, consisting of 6 mm Depron R9 and the plywood W9, can be used at the same time. Glue both components together. This goes between the two wing mounts and the bow cutout, at the front.
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The battery can be easily mounted on the board using Velcro. Glue the short frame R4 to the bottom of the fuselage opening.
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Now the three plankings can be glued on. The stencils have oversize below. Then cut off the sheeting until the wing fits back on the fuselage with as few gaps as possible.
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Elevator assembly: Slide the tailplane between the frames. The elevator ends with the Spant S10.
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Cut the stringer a bit free so that the elevator can run freely in both directions.
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It is best to place the fuselage with the screwed wing on the heling so that it lies straight on the table. Since the fuselage is certainly a little warped by the planking, adjust the position of the tailplane in the frames so that the tailplane sits parallel to the wing.
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When the tail unit is glued, the planking above the tail unit can be closed from S10 to S12. Important: S9 to S10 remains open. As an example, the servo for the elevator can be placed half open in the planking. So it's better to replace later.
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Now the rudder can be put on. The CFRP rod runs "in front" of the S10 frame and the front edge of the Elevator along the lower stringer. Cut this in so that the CFRP rod gets enough hold in the fuselage.
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Align the rudder and glue it in the middle of the fuselage. Now the servo cables should be extended to the area of the wing opening. If a steerable tailwheel is to be installed, bend the wire according to the template and use a bearing sleeve. Mount a control horn on the end of the wire.
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Push the wire through the fuselage directly along the CFRP rod, this is where the tailwheel is in the most stable position.
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Lay the Bowden cable into the wing cutout where the servo is located. Fix the Bowden cable to the frames.
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Pos. Servo: Now the rear can be completely planked. Wing final assembly: KF profile – sand leading edge.
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Important: the KF steps must remain sharp-edged! Only the leading edge and the wingtips are sanded. Mark the area to be sanded. Now mount the motor and chassis carrier.
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Assembly of the engines: Installed here: D Power AL 28-09...
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Glue the carrier in the middle of the nacelle at the top and also at the bottom of the wing...
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Finally, check the four holes that the 2 mm landing gear wire fits through, drill out if necessary. gondola assembly: First put on the upper gondola half.
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Then glue the lower half of the nacelle on, first transferring the center of the nacelle center from above to the lower wing. (pen mark)
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Landing gear: In addition to the wheels also two 2 mm landing gear wires and Prepare adjusting rings with an inner diameter of 4 mm. Bend one side first, bend approx. 8 mm at the end.
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Bend another wire for the longer rear wires in the same way. Now both wires (1 X long and 1 X short) have to be fed into the wheel. The adjusting rings also plug in on both sides.
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Now bend the other side as closely as possible parallel to the first.
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The adjusting rings convey that the wheel is in the middle of the wire.
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Now the necessary area can be cut out on the lower gondola, which is necessary to insert the landing gear. Measure 50mm from the front edge. This is where the excerpt begins. The width of the opening is: 60 mm The length of the neckline is 143 mm The landing gear is only inserted into the four holes.
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The missing fuselage attachment below the wing can now be glued on. Bend the R5 a little and sand the glued areas sharply so that the planking sits neatly on the wing.
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Insert and glue the three frames R7 and R8 into the stringer R6. With the wing mounted, place the assembly in the middle, flush at the front.
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Finally comes the wing transition on the fuselage Next turn, which is so typical of the DC3.
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The frames C8 to C11 are marked with an "A". showing the outside edge. C8 is located exactly on frame S4, which is only glued to the fuselage. C9 is glued flush to the step after the first step, C10 to R6 And C11 at the end of the wing.
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Bend the planking as tightly as possible and glue it to the fuselage and frames. Let it run out at the front according to the course of the planking.
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C7 completes the fairing. Bend them a bit and insert them.
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The template for the windows is used to mark the row of windows on the fuselage. In order to cut safely over the longitudinal stringer, place the template slightly higher than the planking joint. After marking the first three windows, the template is pulled back to extend the row of windows to 5.
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RC system: Since the cables in the channels in the wing still have to be pulled, pull them carefully into the nacelle until there is enough space to solder the controller. The place for the controller is best below the wing, since the landing gear bay cools the controller well here and is also not visible.
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details and paintwork. Now the model can be sanded completely. "Modelier" "Moltofill", a kind of paste for repairing plaster, can be optimally used to fill the gaps for adhesive gaps. After curing, the material is hardly harder than Depron and you have a clean shell in your hands. For the finish I recommend "Hobbyline"...
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Of course I help with construction problems by phone or email. I would be happy to call you back by email. Always a good flight with your new model. Frank Seuffert info@scale-parkflyer.de...
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Warning!! Before you fl y the R/C model it is essential to read the operating and building instructions in full. This sheet is part of the operating instructions. Please keep it in a safe place for further reference. If you ever sell the model make sure to pass on this sheet to the new owner together with the model. A remote controlled model aircraft (model plane ) is not a toy.
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