Ford 8700, 9700 Repair Manual

Foreword

This manual provides information for the proper servicing of the Ford 8700 and 9700 Tractors. The information is essential for all mechanics, and will be especially meaningful to those who have attended the Training Programs for the 8700 and 9700 Tractors. We recommend therefore, that this manual be readily available for reference at all times.

The manual is grouped into parts, each containing chapter divisions. The chapters contain such information as general operating principles, detailed inspection and repair procedures, and full specifics regarding trouble shooting, specifications, and special tools. Whenever possible, the special tools are illustrated performing their specific operations. Any reference made in the manual to right, left, front, rear, top, or bottom, is as viewed facing the direction of forward travel from the driver's seat.

The material contained in this manual was correct at the time the manual was approved for printing. Ford policy is one of continuous improvement, and the Ford Motor Company reserves the right to discontinue models at any time or change specifications or design without notice and without incurring obligation.

ENGINE SYSTEM

ENGINE AND LUBRICATION SYSTEM

The engine described in this manual is a six cylinder diesel "in-line" type with direct fuel injection and overhead valve design. The displacement amounts to 401 cu. in. (6580 cc), the bore to 4.4 in. (111.76 mm) and the stroke to 4.4 in. (111.76 mm). Because of the bore and stroke dimensions it is also referred to as a square engine. This part of the manual deals with the disassembly, inspection and repair, and assembly of the engine and lubrication system, plus the cooling system.

CYLINDER HEAD ASSEMBLY - INCLUDING VALVE TRAIN COMPONENTS
The cylinder head assembly incorporates the valves, valve springs, and rotators. The valve rocker arm shaft assembly is bolted to the cylinder block, through the head. The intake and exhaust manifolds are bolted to the head. The intake manifold is on the right side of the engine, and the exhaust manifold is on the left side.

Valve guides are an integral part of the cylinder head, and valves with oversize stems are available for service. Special replaceable cast alloy valve seats 11re pressed into each valve port of the cylinder head. The alloyed steel exhaust valves are fitted with positive valve rotators. Intake valves use umbrella-type seals while the exhaust valves use a square section O-ring. The push rods are high tensile strength steel with oil-cushioned sockets, and locate inside the tappet. The tappets are cast cylindrical, chill-hardened iron. Valve lash is maintained by selflocking adjusting screws. The camshaft is supported by five replaceable bearings.

The camshaft is driven by the camshaft drive gear which is in mesh with the camshaft gear. Camshaft thrust is controlled by a plate secured to the block and located between the camshaft gear and the front journal of the camshaft.

The cylinder head is designed with the entire face flat and uses six evenly spaced headbolts per cylinder. The fuel injectors are mounted outside the rocker cover and the combustion chambers are in the heads of the pistons.

NOTE: On tractors where cold start equipment is not fitted, the plug assembled in the manifold should remain securely assembled at all times. Considerable damage to the cylinder bores could result from its absence. The cylinder bores can also be damaged by grit and other foreign matter passing through the air cleaner hose connections if they are not properly secured.

The oil pan sump is heavy cast iron with deeper end flanges to enable greater bolt span required by the increased engine loading and will also incorporate the implement mounting pad.

The oil pan is attached to the bottom of the cylinder block and is the sump for the lubrication system. The engine front cover is attached to the front engine adapter plate forming a cover for the timing gears.

The crankshaft gear is keyed and press fitted on the front of the crankshaft. The crankshaft gear drives the camshaft drive gear which is attached to the front of the cylinder block. The camshaft drive gear drives the camshaft gear and the injection pump drive gear.

The camshaft gear is attached to the front of the camshaft by a bolt, lock washer, a flat washer, and a spacer. The gear is keyed to the camshaft to maintain the position of the gear and drive the shaft.

All the timing gears can be checked by observing the timing punch marks on the gears. The crankshaft is supported in the cylinder block by seven main bearings.

The fifth bearing is a flanged thrust bearing which controls crankshaft end play.

A slinger is machined on the rear of the crankshaft to direct oil away from the rear seal. The rear seal is a circular lip-type rubber seal that fits into a pocket machined into the cylinder block and rear main bearing cap. The cap also has two composition side seals. There is also a rear plate gasket to assist in sealing the rear bearing.

The engine pistons have a continuous skirt around the entire piston. Each piston has three compression rings and one oil control ring, the top compression ring is a keystone ring.

The piston is connected to the crankshaft by a heavy I-beam connecting rod. The crankshaft end of the connecting rod has an insert-type bearing. The piston end of the connecting rod has a replaceable bronze bushing. The piston pin is a free-floating steel pin held in place in the piston by two snap-rings. (circlips).

Oil flows from the pump to a replaceable cartridge external filter. A relief valve in the filter permits oil to bypass a clogged filter, thereby maintaining oil flow to the engine at all times.

Oil flows from the filter to the main oil gallery, which runs the length of the cylinder block and intersects the tappet chambers. The main oil gallery also supplies oil to all the crankshaft main bearings and to the connecting rod journals by way of the crankshaft. Camshaft bearings receive oil by means of drilled passages from the main bearings.

On some Ford 8700 Tractors, part of the oil from the pump flows through an external bypass filter mounted on the engine. The filter uses a replaceable cartridge and incorporates a restrictor to limit oil flow through the filter. The filter takes oil from the vertical oil gallery and delivers oil back to the oil pan. This filter helps to prolong the useful life of the oil.

The camshaft drive gear bushing is pressure-lubricated through a drilled passage from the front main bearing and has spiral grooves to direct oil toward the outside of the gear. The gear has small oil passages machined on both sides which allows the oil to exhaust. The timing gears are splash-lubricated from the pressure-lubricated camshaft drive gear.

Cylinder walls and pistons are splash-lubricated by the crankshaft on the 8700. Piston pins are splash-lubricated on the 8700; pressure-lubricated on the 9700 tractor. An intermittent flow of oil is fed to the valve rocker arm shaft assembly through a drilled passage in the cylinder block at the No. 1 camshaft bearing which indexes with a hole in the cylinder head. From the head, the oil flows up around the No. 1 rocker arm support bolt to the rocker shaft. The oil from the shaft flows through drilled holes in each rocker arm to lubricate the valve end and the adjusting screw end of the rocker arm. Oil from the ball ends of the rocker arms flows down the push rods and assists in lubricating the tappets and push rods. Excess oil drains into the push rod chamber through the push rod holes in the cylinder head and then back to the oil pan sump through cored openings in the block.

A water jacketed oil cooler is attached to the top of the front steering motor behind the radiator. The lubricating oil flows to the cooler from a tapping into the main oil gallery which runs the full length of the cylinder block, and returns to the oil pan sump via a pipe tapped into the right-hand side of the cylinder block.

The fitting at the oil outlet from the oil cooler is a restrictor. This valve helps to maintain satisfactory oil pressure in the oil gallery at low. engine speed.

The cylinder head can be removed from the engine for service with the engine installed in the tractor. A.REMOVAL

1. Remove the pre-cleaner from the fresh air intake pipe and the fuel tank cap.
2. Remove two side panels, three radiator grille panels and the top hood panel, Figure
3. Muffler - Unbolt the muffler pipe from the exhaust manifold. Remove the muffler, muffler.support bracket and muffler pipe from the tractor, Figure 2.
   Air Cleaner - Remove the air intake pipe at the intake manifold and at the radiator bracket flange and remove from the tractor, Figure 3
   FORD 9700:
   Muffler - Unbolt the muffler pipe from the turbocharger bracket. Remove the two heat shield clamps. Remove the muffler, support bracket and muffler pipe from the tractor, Figure 3
   Air Cleaner - Remove the air intake pipe from turbocharger to the radiator support (four clamps), Figure 4. Remove the intake manifold hose, Figure 5
   Turbocharger - Remove the turbocharger oil lines. Remove the four bolts attaching the turbocharger to the exhaust manifold. Remove the turbocharger, Figure 4. Plug all turbocharger parts to prevent the entry of dirt.

4. Shut off the fuel at the main fuel tank, Figure 5.
5. Disconnect the wiring harness at the alternator and air intake sensor. Remove the harness from the fuel. tank bracket, Figure 5
6. Remove eight bolts that attach the main fuel tank support brackets to the tractor, Figure 3.
7. Using a sling, remove the fuel tank and brackets from the tractor, Figure 6.
8. Remove the fan brace. Straighten the lock tabs and remove the twelve exhaust manifold bolts, and the exhaust manifold and gasket from the tractor.
9. Remove • the cold start (ether) unit and the fuel delivery lines. Plug the fuel line, injector and fuel pump openings to prevent the entry of dirt.
10. Remove fourteen intake manifold bolts and the intake manifold and gasket from the tractor, Figure 5.
11. Remove the breather tube from rocker cover.

Figure 1
Tractor Sheet Metal

Figure 2
Access To Cylinder Head (8700)

1. Air Cleaner Clamp
2. Flange Bolts (Not Visible)
3. Fuel Tank Bracket Bolts
4. Muffler Support Bracket
5. Breather Tube
6. Fan Hub Brace
7. Fuel Tank (Main)
8. Muffler Pipe To Manifold Bolts
9. Exhaust Manifold
10. Fuel Tank Bracket Bolts (Not Visible)

Figure 3
Access TO Cylinder Head

1. Air Intake Pipe Bracket
2. Air Intake Bracket
3. Flange (Not Visible)

Figure 4
Access To Cylinder Head (9700)

1. Muffler Bracket (Not Visible)
2. Breather Tube
3. Muffler - To - Turbo Bolts

4. Turbo Mounting Bolts
5. Turbo Lube Tubes
6. Air Intake Hose Clamps
7. Turbocharger Assembly

Figure 5
Engine (9700)

1. Heater Hose Valve
2. Fuel Shut-Off Valve
3. Wiring Harness
4. Intake Manifold To Turbo Hose
5. Fuel Filter Bracket
6. Fuel Injector Line
7. Intake Manifold Bolt

Figure 6
Access To Cylinder Head

1. Main Fuel Tank
2. Valve Cover
3. Intake Manifold Air Inlet
4. Fuel Shut-Off Valve

12. Drain the engine coolant. Remove the heater hose from the head fitting, Figure 5.
13. Remove the fuel filters and lines from the engine. Plug all openings to prevent the entry of dirt.
14. Remove the rocker arm cover and gasket.
15. Remove the injector leak-off line at No. 6 cylinder.
16. Remove the two nuts from each injector. Remove the injectors. If the injectors cannot be removed by hand it may be necessary to pry them out. Keep the area clean to avoid fouling the injectors with dirt.

Figure 7
Top View Of Engine

1. Intake Manifold
2. Head Bolt
   2A. Head/Rocker Arm Bolt
3. Lock Tab
4. Exhaust Manifold

17. Visually check the push rods for straightness by rotating them with the valve closed. Loosen the rocker arm shaft bolts evenly and remove the assembly from the tractor, Figure 7.

NOTE: Do not remove the rocker arm shaft retaining bolts unless it is necessary to disassemble the rocker arm shaft.

18. Remove the valve push rods from their holes in the cylinder head and arrange them in a rack in the order in which they were removed. It is important that the rods are installed in the same bores during reassembly.
19. Loosen and remove the cylinder head retaining bolts evenly, working from the ends to the center of the head, and carefully lift the cylinder head from the block.

Figure 8
Removing Valves

1. Retainer Locks
2. Valve Spring
3. Valve Spring Compressor

Exhaust Valves: Remove the retainer locks, the seal from its groove, and the valve rotator and spring. The parts are shown in Figure 10.

3. Lift the valves· from the cylinder head and place them in a numbered rack so they can be reinstalled in their respective guides. Keep the exhaust valve rotators with the valves from which they were removed.

4. INSPECTION AND REPAIR
   1. Inspect the cylinder head for cracks, nicks, or burrs. Install a new head if necessary. Remove.all burrs or nicks from the gasket surface.

Figure 11
Measuring Cylinder Head Flatness

1. Feeler Gauge
2. Straight Edge

2. With a straight edge and feeler gauge, check the flatness of the cylinder head, as shown in Figure 11. Specifications for flatness are 0.006 in. (0.15 mm.) maximum overall, or 0.003 in. (0.76 mm.) in any six inches (152.40 mm.).

NOTE: If the cylinder head face is not within the flatness specification, it may be skimmed providing the depth from the lower face of 'the valve seat insert to the cylinder head face after skimming is not less than 0. 117 in. (2.97mm.).

3. If the head has been skimmed, determine that all the head bolts will bottom. Place the cylinder head, less gasket, on the block and install and finger tighten all the head bolts (rocker arm shaft supports and washers should be used under the long bolts). Using a feeler gauge, check the clearance between the underside of the head bolts and the cylinder head rocker arm support. If the clearance is 0.010 in. (0.254 mm) or greater for any bolt, use a 1/2" X 13 UNC-2A thread tap and increase the tap depth. The head bolts should be marked so they are reinstalled in the hole in which they were checked.

Valve seat inserts of 0.010 in. (0.254 mm.) and 0.020 in. (0.508 mm.) oversize diameter have been fitted to some cylinder heads in production. Heads having oversize inserts fitted are stamped with the following identification marking and on the exhaust manifold side of the cylinder head in line with the valve seat.

4. The intake and exhaust valve ports in the cylinder head are equipped with removable valve seat inserts. Remove and replace inserts that are cracked or loose, or that show excessive wear.
5. To install a larger insert than originally fitted, machine the counter bore for the seat in the cylinder head to the dimensions in Table 1. The insert must be thoroughly chilled in dry-ice before installation.
6. Measure the width of the valve seats, Figure 12, and reface the seats if they do not meet the specifications shown in Figure 14.
7. Measure the concentricity of the valve seat with a suitable gauge, as shown in Figure 13, or with Prussian Blue. If the valve seat runout exceeds 0.002 in. (0.0508 mm ) reface the seat.

NOTE: Reface the valve seat and face at the same time so the finished measurements correspond to Figure 14.

Figure 12
Measuring Valve Seat Width

1. Valve Seat

Figure 13
Checking Valve Seat Concentricity

1. Tighten Pilot
2. Set Dial At "O"
3. Valve Seat Concentricity Gauge
4. Rotate Sleeve Clockwise St Read Dial
5. Set Point To Ride On Valve Seat Face

Figure 14
Valve Face And Seat Angles

1. Valve Face
2. Valve Seat
3. Valve Face Angle - 44°
4. 1/16 In. (1.59 MM)
5. Seat Width 3/32 In. (2.38 mm)
6. Valve Seat Angle - 45°
7. Valve Seat Angle - 309
8. Valve Face Angle - 29°
9. 1./16 In. (1.59 mm)
10. Seat Width - 3/32 In.~ 1/64 In. (2.38 ~.40 mm)

Remove only enough stock from the seat to clean up the pits and grooves, or to correct the seat runout. After refacing, the seat should measure 3/32 in. (2.38 mm) ± 1/64 in. (0.40 mm). If the refaced seat exceeds this width, narrow the seat by removing stock from the top or bottom of the seat. See Step 8. If the seat measures less than this width, widen the seat.

8. Rotate a new or refaced valve lightly in the seat, using Prussian Blue. If the blue is transferred to the valve face 1/16 in. (1.59 mm) below the upper edge of the valve face, the contact is satisfactory. If the blue is transferred to the valve face above or below this point, raise or lower the seat as follows.

Figure 15
Dressing Valve Seats

1. 30°
2. 60°
3. 15°
4. 30°

FORD 8700 INTAKE; FORD 8700 AND 9700 EXHAUST VALVES
Lower the valve seat by removing stock from the top of the seat with a 30° grinding wheel. Raise the seat by removing stock from the bottom of the seat with a 60° grinding wheel. See Figure 15.

FORD 9700 INTAKE VALVES
Lower the valve seat by removing stock from the top of the seat with a 15° grinding wheel. Raise the seat by removing stock from the bottom of the seat with a 45° grinding wheel. See Figure 15.

Some production cylinder heads may have one or more 0.003 in. (.0762 mm) or.015 in. (0.381 mm.) oversize valve guides and valves installed. The exhaust manifold side of the cylinder head opposit: e these valves will be Stamped '3"or ""15" or as appropriate.

Some cylinder heads may have one or more 0.003 in. (.0762 mm) or 0.015 in. (0.381 mm) oversize valves and guides installed. The exhaust manifold side of the cylinder head opposite these valves will be stamped "03" or Y003 OS; "15" or Y015 OS as appropriate.

9. Valve stem-to-guide clearance tolerances are as follows. Intake valves, 0.0010 • 0.0045 in. (0.0245 • 0.114 mm); exhaust valves, 0.0020 • 0.0055 in. (0.0508 • 0.139 mm).

Figure 16
Measuring Valve Guide

1. Telescope Gauge
2. Micrometer

Measure stem-to-guide clearance with a telescoping gauge and micrometer, Figure 16. If not within tolerances, or if excessive oil consumption is indicated, replace the affected guides.

Valves with oversize stems are available for service. If it is necessary to ream valve guides to install valves with oversize stems, use Valve Reamer Kit, SW502, and ream guides in steps, first using the small reamer and standard diameter pilot. The kit contains the following reamer and pilot combinations.

NOTE: Always reface the valve seat aft: er reaming the valve guide.

TABLE 1

Insert Oversize	Exhaust Valve Insert	Intake Valve Seat Insert
	Counterbore Diameter in Cylinder Head	Counterbore Diameter in Cylinder Head
0.010 in. (0.254 mm)	1.607/1.608 in. (40.82/40.84 mm)	1.907 /1.908 (43.44/43.46 mm)
0.020 in. (0.508 mm)	1.617/1.618 in. (41.07/41.10 mm)	1.917/1.918 (43.69/43.72 mm)
0.030 in. (0.762 mm)	1.627 /1.628 in. (41.33/41.36 mm)	1.927 /1.928 (43.95/43.97 mm)

Figure 17
Critical Valve Measurements And Inspection Checks

1. 1/32 In. (.79 mm) Minimum
2. 44°
3. 1/16 In. (1.58 mm)
4. 29°
5. Check For Bent Stems And Correct Diameter
6. Check Maximum Valve Face Run-Out

VALVES AND PUSH RODS

1. INSPECTION

The critical inspection points of the valves are shown in Figure 17. Inspect the valve face and the edge of the valve head for pits, grooves, scores, or other defects. Inspect the stem for a bent condition and the end of the stem for grooves or scores. Check the valve head for cracks, erosion, warpage, or burn. Minor defects such as small pits or grooves, can be removed. Check the valve tip for pits or grooves and replace the valve if such a condition exists. Discard valves that are severely damaged.

Figure 18
Checking Valve Spring Squareness

1. Not More Than 1/16 In. {1.59 mm)

Discard any valve springs that show. signs of erosion or rust. Check each valve spring for squareness, as shown in Figure 18. Discard valve springs that are out of square in excess of 1/16 in. (1.59 mm.).

Check specified free length and loaded height of the valve springs. Weak valve springs cause poor engine performance. If the free length is less than 2-5/32 in. (54.8 mm), add one 0.030 in. (0.76 mm) spacer between the cylinder head spring pad and the valve spring to bring the assembled height to the recommended dimensions of 2-1/8 in. • 2-3/16 in. (53.9 • 55.6 mm).

Check the valve spring retainer locks to be sure they are in good condition. Rotate the exhaust valve positive rotator to be sure it is not binding or excessively worn. Install new rotators if necessary. Check the ends of the push rods for nicks, grooves, roughness, or excessive wear. If the push rods were not straight when checked in Step 19 of "Removal," or if any of the above wear conditions exist, install new rods. Do not attempt to straighten push rods.

2. REFACING VALVES

The valve refacing operation should be closely coordinated with the valve seat refacing operation so the finished angle of the valve is 1° less than the valve seat to provide an interference angle for better seating, Figure 18. Adjust the refacing tool to obtain a face angle of 44° or 29° as shown in Figure 15. Remove only enough stock to clean up the pits and grooves. Check the edge of the valve head; if less than 1/32 in. (0.79 mm.) margin, install a new valve, Figure 17.

Remove all grooves or score marks from the valve tip, then chamfer as necessary. Do not remove more than 0.010 in. (0.25 mm.) from the tip.

Figure 19
Rocker Arm Shaft

1. Bolt
2. Spacer
3. Rocker Arm
4. Notch
5. Rocker Arm Shaft Support
6. Spring

ROCKER ARMS AND SHAFT

1. DISASSEMBLY

To disassemble the rocker shaft assembly, remove the bolts that attach the rocker shaft to the cylinder head from the rocker shaft supports, Figure 19.

2. INSPECTION
   1. Inspect the rocker arm adjusting screws and the push rod ends of the rocker arms for stripped or - worn threads.
   2. Check the ball end of the screws for nicks, scratches, or excessive wear.
   3. Check the rocker arm locating springs and spacers for breaks or other damage.
   4. Inspect the pad end of the rocker arm for roughness or grooves, or excessive wear. If any of the above conditions exist, install' new parts.
   5. Check the rocker arm and rocker shaft diameters. If the diameter exceeds the specifications, install a new part. If the shaft meets specifications, clean it thoroughly in solvent. Make sure the oil passages are clean of obstructions.
3. INSTALLATION
   1. Reassemble the rocker arm and shaft assembly as shown in Figure 19.
   2. Coat the rocker arm shaft with engine oil prior to assembly. Lubricate the valve pads on all rocker arms.
   3. The rocker shaft has an identification groove at one end of the shaft. Position the mark upward and use this end as the front of the shaft. This puts the oil holes and grooves in the shaft facing down.
   4. Start reassembly from the rear of the shaft by first positioning a rocker arm support with the notch on the support to the right of the shaft facing forward.
   5. Be sure the springs and spacers are in their correct position, as shown in Figure 19, then proceed with the assembly.

CYLINDER HEAD

1. ASSEMBLY
   1. Insert each valve in the guide bore from which it was removed and lap it in position to give an even seat around the valve. On completion of this operation remove the valve and carefully clean the lapping compound from the valve seat and seat insert.
   2. Lubricate all moving parts with engine oil prior to installation. Refer to Figures 9 and 10 for reference to parts of the intake and exhaust valves.
   3. Insert each valve in the guide bore from which it was removed or to which it was fitted. Position a new valve seal over each intake valve and guide.
   4. Install the valve springs over the valve guides.
   5. On intake valves, compress the springs and spring retainer as shown in Figure 8, and install the retainer locks. On exhaust valves, compress the spring and the valve rotator. Be sure to install the rotator onto the valve from which it was removed.
   6. On exhaust valves install the new sealing ring into the second groove from the top of the valve stem and install the retainer locks.

Figure 19A
Checking Valve Spring Assembled Height

1. Underside Of Spring Retainer
2. Surface Of Spring Pad

CHECKING VALVE SPRING ASSEMBLED HEIGHT
Measure the assembled height of the valve spring from the surface of the cylinder head spring pad to the underside of the spring retainer. Use dividers, Figure 19A. If the assembled height is greater than the specified limit, install.030 in. (0.76 mm) spacers between the cylinder head spring pad and the valve spring to bring the assembled height to the recommended dimension, listed below.

NOTE: Do not install spacers unless necessary. Use of spacers In excess of recommendations will result in overstressing'the valve springs and overloading the camshaft lobes.

VALVE SPRING ASSEMBLED HEIGHT-
1-23/32 - 1-25/32 in.
(43.6 - 45.2 mm)

2. INSTALLATION
   1. Place a new head gasket on the cylinder block, then carefully position the cylinder head on the gasket. Two dowels are on the top of the cylinder block at opposite corners to aid in positioning the cylinder head and gasket.
   2. Lubricate the cylinder head bolts and install them finger tight.
   3. Install the valve push rod with the cupped end up in the holes in the cylinder head from which they were removed. Be sure the ball ends of the push rods are seated in the tappet sockets.
   4. Position the rocker shaft assembly on the cylinder head, the long cylinder head bolts and washers in the respective holes. Refer to Figure 7. Make sure that the ball ends of the rocker arm adjusting screws are seated in the cupped end of the push rods.

Figure 20
Cylinder Head Tightening Sequence

5. Tighten 1/2 in. cylinder head bolts in the sequence shown in Figure 20. Tighten in three steps: (a) 90 lbs. ft. (122 Nm) (b) 100 lbs. ft. (135 Nm) (c) 110 lbs. ft. groove sides(149 Nm) Tighten 9/16 in. cylinder head bolts (new) in the sequence shown in Figure 20. Tighten in two steps: (a) 140 lbs. ft. (190 Nm) (bl 160 lbs. ft. (217 Nm)

NOTE: The cylinder head bolts should be torqued only when 'the engine is cold.

Figure 21
Checking Valve Lash

1. Adjusting Screw
2. Check Gap With Feeler Gauge

10. Install a new gasket and the intake manifold onto the cylinder head. Secure the manifold with the bolts and lock washers and tighten the bolts to the specified torque.
11. Attach the fuel filters to the manifold with two bolts and flat washers, and connect the fuel lines.
12. Connect the injector lines to the injection pump and to the injectors. Position the clamps on the injector lines in the same position from which they were removed.
13. Connect cold start equipment where fitted.
14. Position a new metal exhaust manifold gasket on the cylinder head and install the exhaust manifold, as shown in Figure 2. Use new lock tabs and tighten the bolts to the specified torque. Bend the lock tabs to retain the bolts.
15. Ford 8700: Bolt the muffler, with a new gasket installed, to the exhaust manifold.
    Ford 9700: Bolt the turbocharger, with a new gasket installed, to the exhaust manifold. Install the oil pressure and return lines to the turbocharger and engine.
16. Connect the upper radiator hose to the cylinder head.
17. Fill the radiator with coolant.
18. Install the rocker cover, installing a new gasket, and tighten the bolts to the specified torque. Connect the ventilating tube.
19. Lift the air cleaner and support assembly into place and attach with the hardware previously removed.
20. Ford 8700: Attach the muffler to the air cleaner support assembly and connect the air intake tube to the intake manifold.
    Ford 9700: Connect the exhaust extension to the turbocharger exhaust outlet and attach it to the air cleaner support assembly. Connect the air intake tube to the inlet side of the turbocharger and the air cleaner.
21. Install the fuel tank assembly, Figure 6.
22. Turn on the fuel.

23. Position the wiring harness in the clips on the support brace and connect the harness at the alternator and air intake restrictor valve.
24. Install the top hood panel and the pre-cleaner.
25. Install both hood side panels and the three radiator grille panels.

26. Bleed the fuel system as described in Part 2, "FUEL SYSTEM". Start "the engine and make a final valve lash adjustment.

NOTE: Do not make valve lash adjustments when the engine is operating at above normal operating temperature.

Engine front cover and timing gear service operations can be performed after· separating the front axle assembly from the engine, transmission, and rear axle assembly, as outlined in "COMPONENT REMOVAL".

Figure 22
Crankshaft Pulley

1. Pulley Bolt
2. Crankshaft Pulley

CRANKSHAFT PULLEY REMOVAL

1. Remove the fan and water pump belts. Remove the bolt and washer from the crankshaft pulley, Figure using Puller No. 518 and Shaft Protector No. 625· as shown in Figure 23. To use the puller for this purpose, 7/16" x 14 UNC bolts have to be used and the slots in the puller enlarged.

2. Check the pulley belt grooves to be sure the surfaces are smooth and the flanges are not cracked or broken.

Figure 23
Removing Crankshaft Pulley

1. Crankshaft Pulley
2. 518 Pulley

FRONT COVER REMOVAL

1. Drain the engine oil, and remove the oil pan.
2. Remove the front cover-to-front engine plate bolts and note the position of the fan mounting.
3. Remove the alternator front mounting bracket bolt.

4. Carefully pry the front cover off the dowel pins and remove it.
5. Remove the oil slinger.
6. Clean all the gasket material from the front cover and from the front engine plate.

FRONT COVER CRANKSHAFT SEAL REMOVAL
The front cover oil seal should be removed and a new seal installed every time the front cover is removed.

1. Drive out the old oil seal and dust seal with a punch. Be careful not to damage the cover.
2. Thoroughly clean the seal bore in the cover.

Figure 24
Installing front Cover Seal

1. Driver
2. Engine Front Cover
3. 630 - 16 Step Plate

Figure 25
Timing Gears

1. Injection Pump Gear
2. Front Cover Plate
3. Camshaft Drive Gear
4. Camshaft Gear
5. Crankshaft Gear

CHECKING TIMING GEAR BACKLASH

1. The timing gears are shown· in Figure 25. The gears are correctly assembled when the timing marks on the gear teeth line up, as shown in the illustration, with the No. 1 piston on TDC.
2. Check the backlash of the gears with a dial indicator or a feeler gauge, as shown in Figure 26.
3. Check between the camshaft drive gear and camshaft gear as shown, and also between the injection pump gear and camshaft drive gear. Also check between the crankshaft gear and camshaft drive gear.
4. Check the backlash at four equidistant points on the gears.
5. If the backlash is within specifications, the gears are suitable for reinstallation. If not, install new gears.

Figure 26
Checking Timing Gear Backlash

1. Feeler Gauge
2. Camshaft Gear
3. Camshaft Drive Gear

INJECTION PUMP GEAR

1. REMOVAL
   1. Turn the crankshaft until the camshaft gear is in the approximate timed position, Figure 27.
   2. Remove the three attaching bolts that retain the injection pump gear, Figure 27, to the pump adapter plate and remove the gear.

Figure 27
Engine Front Cover Removed

1. Injection Pump Gear
2. Front Cover Plate
3. Retaining Bolt
4. Washer
5. Attaching Bolts
6. Adapter Plate
7. Camshaft Gear
8. Self-Locking Bolt
9. Slinger

CAMSHAFT DRIVE GEAR AND ADAPTER

1. REMOVAL
   1. Remove the self-locking bolt that retains the camshaft drive gear and adapter to the cylinder block.
   2. Remove the adapter and camshaft drive gear. Refer to Figure 28.

Figure 28
Removing Camshaft Drive Gear Adapter

1. Adapter
2. Camshaft Drive Gear

2. CLEANING AND INSPECTION
   1. Clean the gear and adapter in solvent.
   2. Inspect gear teeth for scores and nicks and the condition of the teeth contact pattern. Use a carborundum stone to remove minor gear teeth imperfections. If tooth wear or damage is severe install a new gear.

Figure 29
Camshaft Drive Gear And Adapter

1. Camshaft Drive Gear
2. Bushing
3. Oil Passage
4. Adapter

3. Check the adapter oil passage, Figure 29, to be sure that it is clear.
4. Inspect the camshaft drive gear bushing, Figure 29, for wear, nicks or burns, and install a new gear if any of these conditions exist.
5. If excessive backlash, existed in the gears when checked, install a new gear.

CRANKSHAFT GEAR
The crankshaft gear should only be removed if it shows signs of wear or chipping.

1. REMOVAL
   Remove the crankshaft gear with Crankshaft Gear Remover-Replacer, No. SW 501 with Insert SW 501-1, or Remover No. CPT 6040, as shown in Figure 30.

2. CLEANING AND INSPECTION
   1. Clean the gear in cleaning solvent.
   2. Inspect the gear teeth for scores and nicks, and the condition of the teeth wear pattern.
   3. Check the crankshaft keyway to be sure it is in good condition.
   4. Check the key. If there is any evidence of distortion or chipping, use a new key when installing the gear. Install a new gear if wear or damage is evident.
3. INSTALLATION
   1. Drive the key into the keyway until it is seated.
   2. Install the crankshaft gear with Crankshaft Gear Remover-Replacer No. SW 501 with Insert SW 501-1, or Replacer No. CT 6069, as shown in Figure 30.

Figure 30
Removing And Installing Crankshaft Gear

CAMSHAFT GEAR

1. REMOVAL
   1. Remove the retaining bolt and washer, Figure 27.
   2. Remove the camshaft gear from the end of the shaft.

OIL PAN

1. REMOVAL
   
   Take due care when removing the oil pan because of its weight. Use a jack or sling to support the pan.

The oil pan on the Ford 8700 and 9700 Tractors can be removed by replacing the cylinder block-to-front support bolts one at a time with 8-inch long bolts. The purpose of installing these bolts is to safely allow the front support and radiator assembly to be eased forward approximately 1-1 /2 inches (38.1 mm) to facilitate removal of the two sump front bolts.

1. Drain the engine oil and remove the engine oil level dipstick.

2. Support the tractor with a jack under the transmission and a hoist or crane at the front support and radiator assembly.
3. Remove both hood side panels.
4. Remove the pre-cleaner from the air intake tube.
5. Remove the top hood panel and the radiator grille panels.
6. Drain the engine coolant.
7. Remove all lines and hoses between the radiator/ coolers/condenser and the engine. This includes (1) air intake tube, (2) coolant hoses, (3) oil cooler lines, (4) air conditioner lines, (5) hydraulic oil hoses, and (6) power steering oil lines.

8. Remove the main fuel tank front support bolts.
9. Remove the two bolts that attach each side frame member to the front support.
10. Move the front support assembly forward sufficient to remove the front oil pan bolts and oil pan.
11. Remove the two bottom transmission-to-engine attaching bolts.

Figure 31
Oil Pan

12. Support the oil pan. Remove the 31 attaching bolts and lock washers holding the pan to· the engine. Refer to Figure 31.

3. INSTALLATION
   To install the oil pan to an engine installed in a tractor, reverse the procedure, paying attention to the following points.
   1. Be sure that the gasket surfaces on the oil pan and block are clean.
   2. Position the gasket on, the cylinder block and apply a thin film of gasket sealer on the gasket, front cover, and the oil pan.
   3. Hold the pan against the block and install a bolt in each corner of the oil pan. Tighten the bolts by hand so they are finger tight.
   4. Install the remaining bolts and tighten the rear bolts first. Then, tighten from the middle outward in each direction to the specified torque, page
   5. Assemble the front of the tractor to the engine. In· stall the two bottom engine-to-transmission bolts and spacers, if equipped.
   6. Install the oil level dipstick, tighten the drain plug, and fill the crankcase with the proper grade and quality engine oil.
   7. Operate the engine and check for oil leaks.

Figure 32
Oil Pump And Filter Screen

1. Filter Screen
2. Oil Pump
3. Pump Retaining Bolts
4. Support Bracket Bolt

OIL PUMP

1. REMOVAL
   1. Remove the oil pan, as outlined under "Oil Pan Removal". Refer to Figure 31.
   2. Remove the oil pump retaining bolts, and the filter screen support bracket bolt, Figure 32, and remove the oil pump and gasket. When the oil pump is removed, the intermediate shaft is loose and should be removed.

Figure 33
Removing Oil Pump Drive Gear

1. Filter Location
2. Drive Gear And Shaft

Figure 34
Oil Pump Disassembled

1. Stop
2. Gasket
3. Intermediate Shaft
4. Drive Gear
5. Relief Valve
6. Spring
7. Plug
8. Gasket
9. Inlet Tube & Cover Assembly
10. Pump
11. Oil Pump Screen
12. Outer Rotor
13. Rotor & Shaft Assembly
14. Screen Spring
15. Pump Cover

Figure 35
Checking Oil Pump Clearance

1. Feeler Gauge
2. Straight Edge
3. Feeler Gauge
4. Pump Cover To Rotor
5. Pump Body To Rotor

The engine oil filter should be serviced every 300 hours on a Ford 8700 Tractor, and every 100 hours on a Ford 9700 Tractor. Operate the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature, then drain the engine oil. Remove and discard the oil filter element and bypass oil filter element, if equipped. Install new elements and refill the crankcase with oil of the correct grade and specification.

PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD ASSEMBLY

1. REMOVAL
   1. Remove the cylinder head assembly as outlined.
   2. Remove the oil pan.
   3. Remove the oil pump assembly as outlined.

Figure 36
Removing Cylinder Ridge

1. Cutter Blade
2. Shoe
3. Reamer
4. Adjusting Screw

5. Remove the nuts from the connecting rod bearing cap bolts of the piston that is at the bottom of its stroke. Remove the rod bearing cap and liner, Figure 37, from the rod. Push the piston and rod assembly away from the crank pin and remove the bearing liner from the rod. Push the rod and piston assembly out of the top of the cylinder with the handle end of a hammer. Be careful not to scratch the crank pin or the cylinder. Turn the crankshaft to bring each piston to the bottom of its stroke and repeat this procedure. Keep the bearing caps and liners with their respective connecting rods.

Flgure 38
Removing Piston Ring

1. Piston Ring Expander
2. Piston Ring

2. DISASSEMSLY
   1. Remove the piston pin snap ring (circlip) from each side of the piston and remove the pin.
   2. Identify each piston to be sure it will be assembled to the rod from which it was removed.
3. CLEANING
   Clean the piston ring grooves with a piston ring groove cleaner, Figure 39. Be careful not to scratch or remove metal from the groove sides. Place the piston assembly in liquid cleaner, if available, to soften carbon and lead deposits. Clean the rod bore and the back of the connecting rod bearing liners thoroughly. Dry the parts with compressed air. Do not use a wire brush.

Figure 39
Cleaning Piston Ring Grooves

1. Piston Ring Groove Cleaner

CONNECTING RODS

1. Inspect the connecting rods for signs of damage and the bearing bores for out-of-round and taper. If the bore exceeds the recommended limits or is damaged, install a new connecting rod.
2. Check the connecting rod nuts and bolts. Replace any part that shows signs of wear or damage. Always use new connecting rod bearing cap nuts.
3. Check piston pin bushings for wear or damage. Measure outside diameter of piston pin and inside diameter of piston pin bushing. If bushing is damaged, or if the measurements indicate that a clearance between the bushing and the pin is not between 0.0005-0.0007 in. (0.0127-0.01778 mm.), the bushings must be removed.

NOTE: If a new piston pin bushing is installed, it must be reamed to provide the clearance above.

4. A shiny surface on the pin boss side of the piston will usually indicate that a connecting rod is bent. Abnormal connecting rod bearing wear is also an indication of bent connecting rods. Twisted connecting rods will not create an easily identifiable wear pattern, but badly twisted rods will disturb the action of the entire piston assembly. Refer to "Connecting Rod Alignment."

Figure 40
Typical Defective Bearings

1. Craters Or Pockets
2. Radii Ride
3. Scratches
4. Dirt
5. Scratches
6. lmbedded Dirt

7. Overlay Worn Out
8. Fatigue Failure
9. Radii Ride
10. Scratches
11. lmbedded Dirt

CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS

1. If the bearing liners are scored, have the flash overlay wiped out, show fatigue failure, or are badly scratched, as shown in Figure 40, install new bearing liners.
2. If the bearing liners appear to be serviceable, keep them with their respective rods for reassembly in the engine. If the clearance exceeds the specified limits, new bearings must be installed. Undersize connecting rod bearings are available in 0.002 in. (0.0508 mm.), 0.010 in. (0.254 mm.), 0.030 in. (0.762 mm.), and 0.040 in. (1.016 mm.) for service. If new bearings are required, follow the procedure for fitting.

PISTONS

1. Inspect pistons for damage and wear at the ring grooves, piston skirt and piston pin bosses.

Figure 41
Checking Top Ring Groove

1. Keystone Gauge

Documents / Resources

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