Task 1 - Removing the Fabric Clamps Parts & Tools Needed: Side Wall (Left & Right); Front Rail; Take-Up Rail To remove the fabric clamps from the rails: Locate both side walls, the front rail, and the take-up rail. Side Wall (Right) Take-Up Rail Side Wall...
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Put each side wall on the matching side of the tracks, and align the holes in the tracks with the holes in the side walls. Note: The right side wall has two little mounts on it for use with the bungee clamp accessory.
Make sure the carriage is all the way to the Move the carriage all the way to the left. right. Use the 4 mm Allen wrench to tighten Tighten the screw on the left side wall. the screw on the right side wall. Screw Screw Task 5 - Attaching the Handles to the Top Plate...
Move the sewing machine clamps close to Close the clamps. They now press up the machine, leaving a small gap between against the machine. Note: If the clamps the clamps and the machine. don’t press up against the machine, open them back up, move them slightly closer to the machine, and close the clamps again.
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From the right side of the frame, slide the take-up rail into the throat of the machine. Make sure the hooks on the elastic clips are on the back side of the rail. Throat Take-Up Rail Hook (x2) Insert the end of the take-up rail into the hole in the left take-up rail holder, and then insert the other end into the hole in the right take-up rail holder.
Task 9 - Managing the Foot Pedal Cable Parts & Tools Needed: Zip Tie (x2); Zip Tie Mount; Measuring Tape or Ruler (not included) To provide your machine with the full range of motion on the frame without the foot pedal moving out of your reach, you need to place your frame on a work surface that is 23–26 inches deep.
Route the foot pedal cable off the front of If you are dedicating this machine to quilting your machine and to the floor. (not moving it off the frame regularly), then attach the zip tie mount to the top plate, and then zip tie the cable to the mount.
Lay the batting and quilt top over the Roll the quilt up from the bottom edge so backing and pin the layers together. you can easily carry it to your frame. Tip: Roll the batting and quilt top layer up, place it on the top of the quilt backing, and then unroll Bottom Edge...
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Once the quilt top is in the correct place, On the left side of the front rail, place a use the front/side and take-up clamps to front/side clamp so that the edge of the hold the fabric. Make sure to use the correct clamp is against the corner of the rail.
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To mark your quiltable area: Look at the fabric clamps. They have symbols on them to indicate the edges of your quiltable area. The diamond lines indicate the horizontal edge near the take-up rail, while the G-logo lines indicate the vertical edges. The dotted lines are for you to use if the offset of your needle is such that the G-logo line doesn’t work for your machine.
Task 16 - Starting & Ending Your Stitching Parts & Tools Needed: Scissors (not included) If the bobbin thread is under your quilt sandwich as you stitch (whether as you tack down your edges or as you stitch your designs), it can get tangled or sewn into the quilt. To prevent this, start and end your stitching by making sure the bobbin tail is on top of the quilt sandwich.
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Move the machine a few inches away Continue to hold the loop and move the from the last stitch. machine away from the last stitch again. Last Stitch Hold the top thread to make a loop, and As you move away from the last stitch, a then return the needle to the last stitch.
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Slide your quilt so that the next zone of unstitched space is in the quiltable area. To make sure your stitch lines are smooth and to avoid gaps in your designs, create about 2 inches of overlap between your zones, so that when you move to a different zone, 2 inches of the stitched area from the previous zone are in the quiltable area of the next zone.
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Questions and answers
How do I attach a sure stitch elite to my mini-quilter frame? There seem to be two brackets for attachement that are missing.