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Timan RC-750 Workshop Manual

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WORKSHOPMANUAL
RC-750
"
" Protect your back, hips and ankles
www.timan.dk

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Summary of Contents for Timan RC-750

  • Page 1 WORKSHOPMANUAL RC-750 ” ” Protect your back, hips and ankles www.timan.dk...
  • Page 3 12 34 5 6 2 7 84 92  2  ...
  • Page 5 WORKSHOPMANUAL RC-750 ” ” Protect your back, hips and ankles www.timan.dk...
  • Page 6 REMOVING GUARDS ......................4 ............. 4 EMOVING THE BRANCHES PROTECTIVE GUARD ................4 EMOVING THE HYDRAULICS GUARD ..........5 EMOVING THE GUARD ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE ENGINE ..........5 EMOVING THE BLACK GUARD IN FRONT OF THE CLUTCH .............
  • Page 7 TILT SENSOR ........................47 10 MOWING MECHANISM SAFETY SENSOR ..............48 11 REMOTE CONTROL ......................49 11.1 ..................49 ERO POSITION PROGRAMMING 11.2 ....................49 REQUENCY CHANGE 12 DESCRIPTION OF THE ELECTRICAL BOX ..............50 12.1 ....................51 LECTRICAL DIAGRAM 13 TROUBLESHOOTING ......................
  • Page 8 REMOVING GUARDS Removing the branches protective guard The protective guard is removed as follows: 1. Loosen the screws holding the protective guard in the front part of the machine. 2. Tilt the protective guard backwards. 3. Tilt the protective guard around the centre of rotation on the rear part of the machine and lay it on the floor.
  • Page 9 Removing the guard on the right side of the engine First, remove the branches protective guard and the hydraulics guard, see sections 1.1, 1.2. 1. Loosen the rear screw. 2. Press the belt with the left hand and lift off the guard sideways. Removing the black guard in front of the clutch First, remove the branches protective guard, the hydraulics guard and the guard on the right side of the engine.
  • Page 10 Removing the engine compartment guard First, remove the branches protective guard and also the hydraulics guard. See sections 1.1, 1.2. 1. The guard on the right side. 2. Loosen the two screws between the belts. 3. Then lift up the guard. Removing the mowing mechanism guard 1.
  • Page 11 2 Propulsion system Tightening and maintenance of driving belts To ensure that the belts are set and maintained correctly a belt tightening tester is supplied with the machine. Driving with belts that are too loose will considerably reduce the lifetime and efficiency of the belts and the driving pulleys will wear very quickly.
  • Page 12 Tightening the belts between the engine and clutch First, remove the branches protective guard, the hydraulics guard and the guard on the right side of the engine. See sections 1.1, 1.2 and 1.3. Belt tension Location of the engine screws Lock-nut adjusting nut Tighten the belts as follows:...
  • Page 13 Tightening the belts between the engine and hydraulic pump First, remove the branches protective guard, the hydraulics guard and the guard on the right side of the engine. See sections 1.1, 1.2 and 1.3. Pump screws Adjusting screw Tighten the belts as follows: 1.
  • Page 14 Tightening the belts between the clutch and mowing mechanism First, remove the mowing mechanism guard. See section 1.6. Mowing mechanism Adjusting screw Lock-nut Horizontal batten screws Tighten the belts as follows: 1. Loosen the four screws holding the mowing mechanism, two screws on each side. 2.
  • Page 15 Replacing the belt between the engine and hydraulic pump The belt is replaced as follows: First, remove the branches protective guard, the hydraulic pump guard and the guard on the right side of the engine. See sections 1.1, 1.2 and 1.3. 1.
  • Page 16 Replacing the belts between the clutch and mowing mechanism The belts are replaced as follows: First, remove the mowing mechanism guard. See section 1.6. 1. Remove the belt shaft. 2. Lift up the mowing mechanism to the service position and remove the belt. 3.
  • Page 17 Replacing the belts between the engine and clutch The belts are replaced as follows: First, remove the branches protective guard, the hydraulic pump guard, the guard on the right side of the engine, the guard in front of the clutch and the mowing mechanism guard, see sections 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4 and 1.6.
  • Page 18 5. Screw the hexagon screw to the free thread. Tighten the screw to remove the V-belt driving pulley and the Taper Lock case. 6. Remove the V-belt driving pulley and the Taper Lock case. 7. Unscrew the four belt guard screws and remove the guard from the shaft. 8.
  • Page 19 Assemble in the reverse order from removing. Please note the following: 15. Tighten the belt as shown in section 2.2. 16. The screws holding the guard must be treated with Loctite (thread securing). 17. The central screw holding the Taper Lock case must be tightened before tightening the hexagon screws in the driving pulley.
  • Page 20 Replacing the clutch and flange bearings The clutch and bearings are replaced as follows: Follow the instructions for replacing the belts between the clutch and engine up to and including point 11. See section 2.7. Follow the instructions for replacing the servo-engine up to and including point 8. See section 9.1.
  • Page 21 5. Remove the clutch coil. 6. Remove the driving pulley and claw clutch. 7. When assembling the driving pulley the screw must be treated with Loctite (thread securing). 8. When assembling the screw holding the flange bearing treat the screw with Loctite (thread securing).
  • Page 22 „ 11. Loosen the setscrews on the flange bearing and remove the bearing. Assemble in the reverse order from removing. Please note the following: 12. When installing the clutch on the machine make sure that the force arm of the clutch is in the lock of the machine.
  • Page 23 Replacing the guard bearing The guard bearing is replaced as follows: Follow the instructions for replacing the belts between the clutch and engine up to and including point 6. See section 2.7. 1. Remove the four guard screws and the distance ring and groove. 2.
  • Page 24 Assemble in the reverse order from removing. Please note the following: 5. The screws holding the guard must be treated with Loctite (thread securing), the assembly of the Nilos ring and distance ring is shown in the picture. 6. The central screw holding the Taper Lock case must be tightened before tightening the hexagon screws in the driving pulley.
  • Page 25 3 MOWING MECHANISM Removing the flail axis The flail axis is removed as follows: First, remove the mowing mechanism protective guard, see section 1.6, and follow the instructions for removing the belt described in section 2.6. 1. Remove the two screws of the inner guard, note the distance ring between the two washers of the screw.
  • Page 26 5. Remove the vertical positioning shaft. 6. Remove the chain pulley holder. 7. Loosen the three screws holding the closing plate and remove the plate. 8. Remove the lubricator on the left side of the mowing mechanism. 9. Remove the bearing sleeves screws on the right and left side of the mowing mechanism. 10.
  • Page 27 Replacing the bearings in the flail axis The bearings on the left side are replaced as follows: 1. Note the O-ring on the left side of the bearing sleeve which keeps water outside the bearings. 2. Loosen the nut holding the bearing. 3.
  • Page 28 The bearings on the right side of the flail axis are replaced as follows: 1. Remove the nut, self-locking washer and driving pulley. 2. Remove the distance tube, note that the oil hole faces towards the bearings. 3. Remove the bearing sleeve using the clamp. 4.
  • Page 29 Flail cutters, hangers and screws The machine can have two types of flail cutters: Y-shaped cutters or hammer flail cutters. When servicing check the following: The number of Y-shaped cutters is 32 and the number of hammer flail cutters is The flail axes hangers must rotate freely.
  • Page 30 Replacing the cases of supporting arms Cases are replaced as follows: 1. Put the mowing mechanism into the service position. 2. Remove the springs of the supporting arms. 3. Replace the cases. Page 26 / 57...
  • Page 31 4 Belts Belts tension To measure if the belts of the machine are adjusted correctly, use a tape measure placed in front of the central chain pulley and measure approx. 210 mm. Push the upper side of the belt above the central chain pulley and measure the value on the tape.
  • Page 32 Replacing Belts Belts are replaced as follows: To replace the belts on the right side follow the instructions for replacing the belt between the engine and clutch up to and including point 8. See section 2.7. 1. Remove the guard. 2.
  • Page 33 Replacing the bearings in the return pulley Remove the return pulley according to section 4.2. 1. When replacing the bearings it is also important to replace the Nilos rings. 2. Now the bearings can be replaced. When mounting, be careful that the Nilos ring does not lay on the edge of the lock ring groove.
  • Page 34 Replacing the bearings in the bearing pulley The bearings are replaced as follows: 1. Remove the guard. 2. Loosen the bearing pulley nut. 3. Pull out the bearing pulley from the shaft using the clamp. 4. Now the bearings can be replaced. When mounting, be careful that the Nilos ring does not lay on the edge of the lock ring groove.
  • Page 35 Replacing the hydraulic wheels motor The hydraulic wheels motor is replaced as follows: First, remove the branches protective guard, the hydraulics guard and the mowing mechanism guard, see sections 1.1, 1.2, 1.6. Follow the instructions for replacing belts up to and including point 4, see section 4.2.
  • Page 36 Spikes assembly Spikes are mounted between every fourth pattern on the belt, see the picture. See the picture. Push the fitting inside and tighten the screw. A set of spikes includes the following: 14 inner spikes with fittings 14 outer spikes with fittings 14 M10x25 screws 28 M10 washers 14 M10 closing nuts...
  • Page 37 5 RUBBER BELT HANGERS When servicing carefully check the rubber shock absorbers for cracks and other damage. The rubber hangers of the triangle are replaced as follows: 1. Remove the nut on the upper side of the triangle. 2. Turn the belt downwards, then the rubber shock absorber can be replaced.
  • Page 38 7 Hydraulics The hydraulic system consists of two variable hydraulic pumps each driving its hydraulic motor. To avoid dirtying the oil, the dipstick has a 3 mm air filter. The dipstick has an embedded 0.2 bar counter-valve which: Keeps the oil in the tank when driving on slopes. Prevents condensation in the tank.
  • Page 39 Replacing the gear oil and filter The gear oil and filter are replaced as follows: 1. Remove the branches protective guard, loosen the two screws indicated by the arrow and tilt the equipment backwards. 2. Remove the hydraulics guard. 3. Replace the oil filter. Before mounting a new filter, do not forget to lubricate the gasket with oil.
  • Page 40 Machine towing If the machine hydraulics fail or if the motor won‟t start, the machine can be towed. First, remove the hydraulics guard, then turn each of the towing screws twice with a wrench. Now the machine can be towed. After towing, tighten the towing screws to 14 Nm.
  • Page 41 Checking hydraulic pressure The pumps have a safety relief valve which takes the oil to oil-consuming machine components when the pressure exceeds 160 bar. Important: Before checking the pressure, make sure the towing screws are tightened. When testing the hydraulic pressure, start by measuring the pressure of the hydraulic pump. Remove the hydraulic hoses between the engine and the measured pump.
  • Page 42 Replacing the Pump First, remove the branches protective guard, the pump guard and the guard on the right side of the engine, see sections 1.1, 1.2 and 1.3. Remove the hydraulic pump belt, see section 2.5. 1. Drain the oil by loosening the oil drain plug. 2.
  • Page 43 5. Remove the hanger screw. 6. Remove the hanger screw. 7. Loosen and remove the suction hose. 8. Remove the reverse hose on the filter. 9. Lift up the pump from the machine. 10. Remove the ball joint of the arm, servo-engine support and the ventilator and driving pulley.
  • Page 44 Cleaning the oil-cooler The cooler is cleaned as follows: First, remove the branches protective guard, see section 1.1. 1. Loosen the eight screws of the mesh and remove the two screws completely on the top in the middle. 2. Tilt the mesh backward and remove it by lifting it sideways up. 3.
  • Page 46 8 Servo-engine Replacing the Servo-engine First, remove the branches protective guard, the hydraulics guard and the guard on the right side of the engine. See sections 1.1, 1.2 and 1.3. Remove the hydrostatic pump belt, see section 2.5. 1. Remove the pressure hoses to the left and right engine. 2.
  • Page 47 5. Remove the hanger screw. 6. Loosen the rotating device on the suction hose, approx. one turn. 7. Remove the reverse hose on the filter. 8. Lift the pump up 20 cm by fastening the lifting lugs around the pump. When lifting, check if the suction hose rotates. 9.
  • Page 48 11. Remove the arm of the servo-engine with a screwdriver. 12. Loosen the three screws holding the servo-engine. 13. Remove the electrical connection of the servo-engine. 14. Remove the servo-engine. Assemble in the reverse order from above. Please note: 1. Assemble the servo-engine arm according to section 8.3. 2.
  • Page 49 Replacing the Potentiometer First, remove the branches protective guard, the hydraulic pump guard and the engine compartment guard. See sections 1.1, 1.2 and 1.5. 1. Remove the electrical connection of the potentiometer. 2. Loosen the two screws holding the potentiometer. 3.
  • Page 50 Setting the zero position of the servo-engine When the arms of the servo-engine are being remounted make sure that they are aligned correctly otherwise the machine will not go straight. Set as follows: 1. Before mounting the arms on the servo-engine, supply electricity to the machine by pressing the emergency button on the remote control and on...
  • Page 51 9 TILT SENSOR This sensor does two things. 1. Engine protection. The engine is approved and tested to drive on slopes with a maximum angle of 58 degrees. When driving on more than 58 degree slopes the engine loses its lubricating capability which can result in an accident..
  • Page 52 10 MOWING MECHANISM SAFETY SENSOR To avoid starting/setting the machine in motion with the mowing mechanism in the service position, the machine has an NPN safety sensor which is activated when the arms of the mowing mechanism are lifted. The sensors are located according to the picture [1].
  • Page 53 11 REMOTE CONTROL 11.1 Zero position programming The machine is set by the manufacturer in the factory so when the joysticks are released, the machine idles. This can change over time and the zero position can be found again by programming the remote control.
  • Page 54 12 DESCRIPTION OF THE ELECTRICAL BOX The box on the right side of the machine is a Timan control box. The box includes an emergency stop, hour counter, circuit breakers and relays, ignition indicator light and the supply of the NBB control box.
  • Page 58 13 Troubleshooting Problem Possible cause Possible solution Starter works but the engine Spark plug [*1] Check the gap or replace the plug won‟t start Damaged wiring Replace or repair wiring Fuel filter is blocked [*1] Clean the filter in the carburettor No fuel Refill Vacuum valve under the fuel tank...
  • Page 59 Machine makes a noise Defective flange bearing at the clutch Replace the bearing Defective guard bearing Replace the bearing Defective mowing mechanism bearings Replace the bearings Bad mowing Worn out flail cutters Replace all flail cutters Forward travel is too fast Reduce speed Wrong type of the flail cutter Replace the type of flail cutter...
  • Page 60 Normally, the Honda engine works on a gradient of up to 20 degrees so before it is supplied to Timan, it is modified. The engine can therefore work on a gradient up to 58 degrees. The changes are described below.
  • Page 61 14.2 Diagnostic connection The Honda engine has a diagnostic connection to connect to a computer. With the computer connected the following engine data can be read: Throttle valve opening Engine revolutions Number of engine hours Sensor fault Previous error codes of the engine The diagnostic connection can only be used by authorized Honda dealers.
  • Page 62 Important: Check the oil level every four hours during operation. The engine does not have an alarm sensor to indicate when the oil level is too low. In the factory the engine is filled with Texaco Havoline Extra SAE 10W-40 classification API SJ semi-synthetic slightly flowing oil.