Singer Brilliance 6180 Manual

Technical Data

Parts description

Sewing Machine

1. Thread guide
2. Thread take-up
3. Thread tension adjustment wheel
4. Head cover
5. Thread trimmer
6. Extension table (Accessory box)
7. Spooler
8. Spool stop
9. Overview of stitch patterns
10. Return switch
11. Carrying handle
12. Horizontal thread reel holder
13. Handwheel
14. Main switch
15. Mains connection
16. Rating plate
17. Thread guide
18. Buttonhole lever
19. Presser foot lifter
20. Thread guide
21. Needle threader
22. Thread guide
23. Presser foot screw
24. Needle
25. Needle plate
26. Needle bar
27. Presser foot holder
28. Presser foot release
29. Needle clamping screw
30. Presser foot
31. Feed dog
32. Mains lead
33. Foot control
34. Instructions for use

Accessories

35. Set of needles
36. 3 x bobbins (1 in the machine)
37. Second thread reel holder
38. Plain washers (2 x)
39. Spool cap
40. Cutting knife/brush
41. Needle plate button
42. Transport cover plate
43. Zipper foot
44. Buttonhole foot

The presser foot included in the delivery is a standard presser foot and is used for the majority of sewing operations.

Start-up

• Disconnect the machine from the power supply by removing the plug from the socket.
• Before you use the machine for the first time, wipe off any oil residue that could have accumulated in the vicinity of the needle plate during transport.

Electrical connection/foot control

• Plug the mains plug (1) of the machine into the mains socket (2) as shown. Connect the plug (3) of the foot control to the connection socket of the sewing machine.
  Note: The sewing machine cannot be started up if the foot control is not connected.
  
  1. Main switch to OFF/AUS
  2. Plug-in connector
  3. Mains connection lead
  4. Foot control
  5. Connection socket

Main switch

Your sewing machine will only sew if the main switch is switched on. The sewing light is also switched on and off by the main switch. Disconnect the plug from the socket before you carry out any maintenance or change the needle.
Main switch OFF/AUS:

Main switch ON/EIN:

Thread reel holder

HORIZONTAL THREAD REEL HOLDER

• Put the thread reel onto the reel holder and secure it with a spool cap so that the thread will run smoothly. If the thread reel is equipped with a thread tension disc, this should be facing to the right.

VERTICAL THREAD REEL HOLDER FOR LARGER THREAD REELS

• Attach the thread reel holder and fix with a washer. Place a thread reel on the reel holder.
  

Presser foot lifter

There are three positions for the sewing foot.

1. Presser foot in the lowest position: for sewing.
2. Presser foot in the middle position: to insert and take out the fabric being sewn.
3. Presser foot in the top position: to change the presser foot and removal of especially heavy weight fabric.

Transport cover plate

• Use the transport cover plate when you want to switch off the automatic transport of the machine for sewing on buttons, free-hand sewing and darning. You can then guide and move the fabric yourself. For installation, bring the needle and presser foot to the top.
• Lay the transport cover plate onto the needle plate in such a way that the lower notches engage into the bores.

Using the free-arm

• You can use your machine both as a free-arm and as a flat-bed machine. When the extension table is fitted, you will have more working space than on a flat-bed model.
• To remove, hold the extension table with both hands and pull it away from the machine.
• To insert, push the extension table into the right position until it engages.
• Without the extension table, the machine can be used as a free-arm sewing machine to sew children´s clothing, cuffs, trouser legs and other inaccessible places.

Spooling the lower thread

Ensure that you are using class 15 J bobbins.

1. Put the thread reel onto the reel holder and secure it with the small spool cap. Draw the thread from the reel through the thread guides, as shown in the picture.
2. Draw the end of the thread through the hole in the bobbin (see picture).
3. Press the bobbin as far as possible to the left, (if the bobbin is not on the left). Place the bobbin on the winder so that the end of the thread is pointing upwards. Now press the winder to the right until it clicks and hold the end of the thread.
4. Start the machine. The winder will stop itself when the bobbin is full. Press the winder to the left again, remove the bobbin and cut off the end of the thread.

Removing the bobbin case

1. Bring the needle to the top position by turning the handwheel forwards.
2. Open the free-arm flap by pulling it forwards. Open the flap of the bobbin case (see diagram), and pull the bobbin case out of the hook.
3. Let go of the bobbin case flap and the bobbin will fall out.

Inserting the bobbin into the case

1. Take the bobbin case in your left hand and place the bobbin into the case in such a way that the bobbin is turning clockwise.
2. Lay the thread into the slit in the case.
3. Draw the thread under the tension spring.
4. Pull about 15 cm thread out of the bobbin.

Inserting the bobbin case into the hook

1. Cut-out for case finger
2. Bobbin flap
   1. Grasp the bobbin case with your left hand, open the flap and place the case with the case finger above on the pin in the middle of the hook.
   2. Ensure that the thread is hanging outwards and is not caught in the case.
      Note: Verify that the finger of the bobbin case is lying on the corresponding cut-out of the hook path cover ring.
   3. If you now release the bobbin flap, the bobbin case will engage in the hook.

Threading the top thread

1. Raise the presser foot lifter. Before threading the needle, always check that the presser foot is „up". (If the presser foot lifter cannot be raised, it is impossible to set the correct thread tension).
   
2. Turn the handwheel anti-clockwise until the needle reaches its top position and the thread take-up is visible.
   
3. Hold the thread firmly with your right hand and thread the machine with your left hand in accordance with the sequence shown.
   
   • Then from right to left through the thread take-up (3).
   • Draw the thread through the needle eye (5) from the front to the rear. (The use of the automatic needle threader is described below.)

A simple test of whether the machine has been threaded correctly can be carried out as described below:

1. With the presser foot raised, draw the thread to the rear of the machine. You should feel a slight resistance but no, or only a slight bending of the needle.
2. Now lower the presser foot and draw the thread to the rear of the machine once again. This time you should notice a considerable resistance and much more bending of the needle. If you do not feel any resistance, this means that the machine has not been threaded correctly. Repeat the threading procedure.

Using the needle threader

Bring the needle to the top position by turning the handwheel anti-clockwise.

1. Hook the thread into the threading hook, as shown in the picture.
   
2. Hold the end of the thread firmly and lower the lever of the needle threader.
   
3. Turn the lever as far as it goes.
   
4. Draw the thread under the tongue of the needle threader and then upwards.
   
5. Turn back the lever. The needle will be thread automatically.
   
6. Release the lever and pull the thread away.
   
   Note: The machine must be set to straight stitch for threading with the needle threader.

Picking up the lower thread

1. Raise the presser foot lifter.
   
2. Hold the upper thread with your left hand and turn the handwheel anti-clockwise so that the needle is brought into the lowest position and then into the highest position.
   
   Note: You can quickly pick up the lower thread if you briefly activate and then release the reverse switch with the machine set to straight stitch. The sewing machine will make a downward and then upward movement and stop with the needle raised. It is a typical feature of this computerised sewing machine that it always stops with the needle up.
3. Pull slightly at the upper thread. The lower thread will come up through the opening in the needle plate.
   
4. Draw out both threads approx. 15 cm and lay both threads backwards under the presser foot.
   

Fabric, thread and needle table

The selection of the correct needle and the right thread depends on the fabric to be sewn. The following table is a practical aid for the selection of needles and threads. Consult the table before you start sewing. Ensure that you use the same type of thread and thread thickness for the top and bottom threads.

* Use only Singer brand needles for better results

Changing the needle

• Disconnect the machine from the power supply by removing the plug from the socket socket.

1. Flat side
2. Needle
3. Pin
   1. Bring the needle to the highest position by turning the handwheel anticlockwise.
   2. Loosen the needle clamp screw by turning anti-clockwise.
   3. Remove the needle by pulling it downwards.
   4. Insert the new needle in the needle holder with the flat side towards the back.
   5. Push up the needle as far as it will go.
   6. Tighten the needle clamp screw with the screwdriver included in the delivery.

Note: Pull firmly but not too hard.
Tip: It is easier to change the needle if you put a piece of fabric under the presser foot and lower the presser foot. This prevents the needle from falling into the needle plate hole.

Setting the tension of the thread

For 90% of your sewing, you will only need to set the thread tension adjustment wheel to „ 5 ". The thread tension adjustment wheel is located on the machine head.
Tip: By slightly pushing the 5 basic setting in + or - direction, a better stitch pattern is usually achieved.

1. Bottom
2. Top

Straight stitch
An attractive seam is predominantly dependent on the correct tension of the upper and lower threads. If the thread tension is correct, the two threads should interlock in the middle of your fabric.
You must probably adjust the thread tension if you notice any irregularities in the seam pattern. You must lower the presser foot to adjust the thread tension.
A symmetrical thread tension (i.e. identical seam pattern above and below) is normally only desired for straight stitching.

Zigzag stitch and embroidery
For the zigzag stitch, the thread tension should be somewhat looser than for the straight stitch. The seam is more attractive and you will avoid gathering if the upper thread appears on the underside of the fabric.

Operating panel functions

1. Stitch length
2. LC display
3. Manual adjustment buttons for stitch width/needle position
4. Buttons for manual adjustment of the stitch length
5. Overview of stitch patterns
6. Stitch number buttons
7. Stitch pattern number
8. Stitch width/needle position for straight stich

Stitch number buttons
When you switch on the machine, the straight stitch is set and a pop-up window appears on the LC display for individual adjustments.
To select a stitch pattern, use the left button to select the left digit and the right button to select the right digit.

Adjustment buttons for stitch length/stitch width and needle position
You sewing machine sews with a default/standard stitch length and width.
The default settings are underlined on the display. You can change the stitch length, stitch width or needle position for the straight stitch.
Note: Some stitch patterns offer more possibilities for manual adjustment than others.

Needle positions for the straight stitch

There are 13 different needle positions available for the straight stitch. The needle position is adjusted with the needle position button (see picture below).

Regulation of the lower thread tension

Only adjust the lower thread tension of a correct stitch pattern cannot be achieved by regulating the upper thread tension. Turn the screw left to weaken the tension and right to tighten the tension. If the stitch pattern is all right but the seam is gathering, both the upper and the lower tension could be too tight and must be readjusted.
To check whether the case tension is right, let the case hang by the end of the thread and press it in briefly. If the tension is right,, the thread will pull out approx. 5–10 cm. If the tension is too loose, the thread rolls of continuously.

Changing the sewing foot

Ensure that the needle is in the „top" position. Raise the presser foot lifter.

1. Presser foot lifter
2. Presser foot release
3. Presser foot holder
   1. Press the presser foot release. The presser foot is automatically released from its holder.
   2. Lay the desired presser foot on the needle plate and centre the pin of the presser foot directly under the slot of the presser foot holder.
   3. Lower the presser foot lifter to allow it to engage in the presser foot.

Help message

The winder has slid to the right during sewing (operating position). Check the winder and push to the left.
The buttonhole lever is not lowered or raised. Lower the buttonhole lever for sewing buttonholes. Raising the buttonhole lever while sewing normally.
The plug of the foot control has been pulled out during activation. Insert the plug.
The machine is blocked because threads have been caught in the region of the bobbin or the sewing motion has been interrupted suddenly. Switch off the main switch and rectify the problem.
The return button/tacking button is pressed while the buttonhole stitch is set. The tacking stitch is sewn automatically when the buttonhole is finished. It is not necessary to press the return button.
The winder is in operation. Push the winder to the left if it is not being used.

Return switch

Double functional switch for return sewing and sewing up

• Backwards function for straight stitches and zigzag stitches ()
  • Activate the return switch for backwards sewing.
  • The machine sews backwards as long as the switch is activated.
• Bar-tacking function for sewing mis-cellaneous stitches ()
  • The sewing machine sews 4 small bar-tacking stitches for the sewing of all stitch patterns apart from straight and zigzag stitches.
  • The bar-tacking stitches are sewn exactly at the position where the return switch is activated.

Note: The finishing of stitch patterns is very useful for the prevention of fraying seams.

Beginning sewing

Look-up table for stitch lengths and widths

STITCH	PATTERN NO.			STITCH WIDTH		STITCH LENGTH
	100 stitch pattern	80 stitch pattern	60 stitch pattern	AUTO	MANUAL	AUTO	MANUAL
	00	00	00	MIDDLE	LEFT - RIGHT	2.5	0.5–4.5
	01	01	01			2.5	1.5–2.5
	02	02	02		–	2.5	2.0–4.0
	03	03	03	5.0	0–0.6	2.0	0.5–3.0
	04	04	04	3.0	2, 3, 4, 5, 6	2.0	1.0–3.0
	05	05	05	3.0	2, 3, 4, 5, 6	2.0	1.0–3.0
	06	06	06	6.0	2, 3, 4, 5, 6	1.5	0–2.5
	07	07	07	3.0	1.0–0.6	2.0	1.0–3.0
	08	08	08	3.0	1.0–0.6	2.0	1.0–3.0
	09	09	09	6.0	3.4/5.6	2.0	1.5–2.5
	10	10	10	3.5	3.5–6.5	2.5	1.5–2.5
	11	11	11	3.5	3.5–6.5	2.5	1.5–2.5
	12	12	12	6.0	3.4/5.6	2.0	1.0–2.5
	13	13	13	5.0	2.0–6.0	2.5	1.5–2.5
	14	14	14	3.5	3.5–6.5	2.5	1.5–2.5
	15	15	15	6.0	3.4/5.6	2.0	1.5–2.5
	16	16	16	3.0	2.0–6.0	2.5	1.5–2.5
	17	17	17	3.5	1.0–6.5	2.5	1.5–2.5
	18	18	18	3.0	1.0–6.5	2.5	1.5–2.5
	19	19	19	3.0	1.0–6.5	2.5	1.5–2.5
	20	20	20	3.5	1.0–6.5	2.5	1.5–2.5
	21	21	21	3.5	1.0–6.5	2.5	1.5–2.5
	22	22	22	3.5	1.0–6.0	2.0	0.8–2.5
	23	23	23	3.5	1.0–6.0	2.0	0.8–2.5
	24	24	24	5.0	1.0–6.0	2.0	1.0–2.5
	25	25	25	5.0	1.0–6.0	2.0	1.0–2.5
	26	26	26	5.0	3.5–6.0	2.5	1.5–2.5
	27	27	27	4.0	2, 4, 5	2.5	1.0–2.5
	28	–	–	5.0	2.0–6.0	2.5	1.0–2.5
	29	28	28	5.0	3, 4, 5, 6	2.5	1.3–2.5
	30	–	–	5.0	3, 4, 5, 6	1.8	1.5–2.5
	31	29	29	1.0	–	2.5	1.5–30
	32	30	30	5.0	5.0–6.0	2.5	–
	33	31	31	5.0	3.5–6.0	2.5	1.5–2.5
	34	32	–	5.0	3.0–6.5	2.5	1.5–2.5
	35	33	–	5.0	1.0–6.0	2.5	0.8–2.5
	36	34	32	–	–	Diff.	–
	37	–	–	6.0	3.5–6.0	0.8	0.5–1.5
	38	–	–	6.0	3.5–6.0	0.8	0.5–1.5
	39	35	33	6.0	3.5–6.0	0.5	0.3–1.5
	40	36	–	6.0	3.5–6.0	0.5	0.3–1.5
	41	37	–	6.0	3.5/5.6	0.5	0.3–1.5
	42	38	34	6.0	3.5/5.6	0.5	0.3–1.5
	43	39	35	6.0	3.5/5.6	0.5	0.3–1.5
	44	40	–	6.0	3.5/5.6	0.5	0.3–1.5
	45	41	36	6.0	3.5/5.6	0.5	0.3–1.5
	46	42	–	6.0	3.5/5.6	0.5	0.3–1.5
	47	43	37	6.0	3.0–6.5	0.5	0.3–1.5
	48	44	38	6.0	3.0–6.0	0.5	0.3–1.5
	49	45	39	6.0	3.0–6.0	0.5	0.3–1.5
	50	–	–	6.0	3.0–6.0	0.5	0.3–1.5
	51	–	–	6.0	3.0–6.0	0.5	0.3–1.5
	52	46	40	5.0	3.5–6.0	0.5	0.3–1.5
	53	47	41	6.0	3.0–6.0	0.5	0.3–3.0
	54	48	–	6.0	3.0–6.0	0.5	0.3–3.0
	55	49	42	6.5	3.5–6.5	0.5	0.3–2.5
	56	50	43	6.0	3.5–6.0	0.5	0.3–1.5
	57	51	44	6.0	3.0–6.0	0.5	0.3–1.5
	58	52	45	6.0	3.4/5.6	0.5	0.3–1.3
	59	–	–	3.5	2.0–6.0	0.5	0.5–1.0
	60	53	–	5.0	2.0–6.5	0.5	0.5–0.8
	61	54	46	6.0	3.5–6.0	0.2	1.5–2.5
	62	55	–	6.0	3.5–6.0	2.5	1.5–2.5
	63	56	47	6.0	3.5/6.0	1.8	0.8–2.5
	64	57	48	6.0	3.5/6.0	Diff.	–
	65	–	–	6.0	3.5/6.0	Diff.	–
	66	58	49	6.0	3.5–6.0	1.3	0.8–4.0
	67	59	–	6.0	3.5–6.0	1.3	0.8–4.0
	68	60	50	6.0	3.5–6.0	1.8	1.0–4.0
	69	–	–	6.0	3.5–6.0	1.8	1.0–4.0
	70	61	51	6.0	3.0–6.0	2.5	1.0–2.5
	71	–	–	6.0	3.0–6.0	2.5	1.5–2.5
	72	62	–	4.5	3.4/5.6	2.5	1.5–2.5
	73	–	–	4.5	3.4/5.6	2.5	1.5–2.5
	74	63	52	4.5	3.4/5.6	2.5	1.5–2.5
	75	–	–	4.5	3.4/5.6	2.5	1.5–2.5
	76	64	53	5.0	3.5–6.0	2.5	1.5–2.5
	77	–	–	5.0	3.5–6.0	2.5	1.5–2.5
	78	65	–	5.0	3.0–6.5	2.5	1.5–2.5
	79	–	–	5.0	3.0–6.5	2.5	1.5–2.5
	80	66		5.0	3.0–6.0	2.0	1.0–2.5
	81	67	–	5.0	3.5–6.5	2.5	1.5–2.5
	82	–	–	4.5	3.0/4.5/6.0	2.5	1.5–2.5
	83	68	–	6.0	3.5–6.0	2.5	1.5–2.5
	84	69	–	5.0	3.5–6.0	2.5	1.5–2.5
	85	70	–	6.3	3.8–6.3	1.3	1.0–2.0
	86	71	–	5.0	3.0–6.0	2.5	1.5–2.5
	87	–	–	5.0	4.0–6.0	2.5	1.5–2.5
	88	72	–	5.0	2.0–6.0	1.5	0.5–2.0
	89	–	–	–	–	2.0	2.0–4.0
	90	73	55	3.0	2.0–4.5	–
	91	–	–	–	–	0.5	0.5/0.8
	92	–	–	–	–	0.5	–
	93	–	–	–	–	0.5	0.5/0.8
	94	74	56	–	–	0.5	0.5/0.8
	95	75	57	–	–	0.5	0.5/0.8
	96	76	58	–	–	0.5	0.5/0.8
	97	77	59	–	–	0.5	0.5/0.8
	98	78	–	–	–	0.5	0.5/0.8
	99	79	–	–	–	0.5	0.5/0.8

Overview of stitch pattern numbers

Straight stitch

The straight stitch is the most frequently stitch used. Therefore become familiar with the following steps.
Note: According to the fabric weight, a „fine adjustment" of the thread tension could be required.

1. Thread tension adjustment wheel
2. Return switch
3. Presser foot lifter

100 stitch pattern: 00 80 stitch pattern: 00 60 stitch pattern: 00

1. SETTINGS
   Presser foot - standard foot/upper thread tension - 5
2. Draw both threads approx. 15 cm backwards under the presser foots.
3. Lay the fabric under the presser foot and lower the presser foot.
4. Turn the handwheel anti-clockwise until the needle pierces the fabric.
5. Start the machine. Guide the fabric lightly with your hand. Stop the machine when you reach the edge of the fabric.
   Note: The needle plate is fitted with a scale in mm and inches as a fabric guiding aid.
6. First turn the handwheel anti-clockwise until the needle is at its highest position, raise the presser foot and pull the fabric to the rear. Cut off excess thread with the thread cutter - located on the head cover.
   Note: We recommend starting and ending a seam with 3 to 5 backwards stitches. In this way you will secure the ends of the threads and prevent the seam from loosening.

Straight sewing with the guiding lines

The guiding lines on the needle plate will help you to sew a straight seam. They are marked with figures that define the distance between the seam and the centred needle.

Quilt stitch with needlework look

This stitch looks as though it has been sewn by hand and is suitable for quilting and padding work.

100 stitch pattern: 02 80 stitch pattern: 02 60 stitch pattern: 02

1. Use the desired stitch colour for the lower thread. While you sew, the lower thread will appear on the top side, making it look hand-sewn.
2. Use an invisible or very fine thread in accordance with the colour of the fabric for the upper thread so that this will not be visible.
3. Increase the thread tension until you obtain the desired effect.
4. Begin sewing.
   Note: For unusual results, experiment with different thread tensions and stitch lengths.

Sewing/couching in a zipper

Use the zipper foot to sew the left or right side of a zipper or to sew in an inlet thread.
Needle left of the sewing foot:

Needle right of the sewing foot:

Sewing in a zipper
To sew the right side of the zipper, engage the zipper foot left into the foot holder, so that the needle pierces left of the presser foot.
To sew the left side of the zipper, engage the zipper foot right into the foot holder.

Couching
To couch curtains etc. lay the inlet thread in the folded fabric edge or in the bias binding. The bias binding must be tacked around the fabric edge. Engage the zipper foot right in the pressure foot holder so that the needle pierces right of the presser foot.
Tip: To guide the needle closely to the inlet thread, you can achieve a fine adjustment of the needle position with the aid the the stretch width buttons.

Zigzag stitch

SETTINGS:
Presser foot - standard foot
Upper thread tension - 5
The upper thread could be visible from the wrong side depending on the thread, stitch and sewing speed. The lower thread must never appear on the top side. Lower the thread tension with the adjustment wheel if the lower thread can be seen on the top side or the seam is gathered.

1. Bottom side
2. Top side

100 stitch pattern: 03 80 stitch pattern: 03 60 stitch pattern: 03

Setting the stitch width and length

The dark grey field represents the standard value that is automatically set when the pattern is selected. The default setting for the zigzag stitch is 2 mm and the stitch width is 5 mm.
The grey fields represent values that can be manually set.

Multiple zigzag stitch

SETTINGS:
Presser foot - standard foot
Upper thread tension - 5
The multiple zigzag stitch is much stronger than the normal zigzag stitch because it binds the fabric with three stitches. It is therefore suitable for the tidying and edging of all kinds of fabrics. It is also ideal for bar tacking, for the reinforcement of worn points, for the application of patches, sewing on elastic bands, for sewing household textiles and for quilting.
Note: A manual adjustment of the stitch length is necessary for darning or finishing as shown in the figure.

100 stitch pattern: 06 80 stitch pattern: 06 60 stitch pattern: 06

Shell stitch

SETTINGS:
Presser foot - standard foot
Upper thread tension - 5
Fold over the fabric edge and iron. Push the fabric with the right side facing upwards under the presser foot so that the tip of the stitch penetrates just over the folded edge and pulls the fabric into a shell shape. Trim the projecting fabric along the seam.
Tip: For creative results, you can experiment with different stitch widths and lengths as well as thread tensions.

100 stitch pattern: 06 80 stitch pattern: 06 60 stitch pattern: 06

Caterpillar stitch

Caterpillar stitches are especially dense zigzag stitches, resulting in a „satin" finish. They are good for applique or for sewing on cords etc. The upper thread tension should be slightly reduced. The stitch length must be set within the range of 0.5–2.00. If you are sewing very soft fabric, please use tearaway stabiliser or tissue paper to prevent the fabric from gathering.
Note: If you are sewing particularly dense zigzag stitches/ caterpillar stitches, you MUST use the caterpillar foot.

Placing of patterns

The stitch width of the pattern increases proceeding from the centre of the needle position, as shown below.

Sewing on buttons

SETTINGS:
Presser foot - standard foot
Transport cover plate

100 stitch pattern: 90 80 stitch pattern: 73 60 stitch pattern: 55

• Lay the fabric and button under the sewing foot.
• Lower the sewing foot. Turn the handwheel and check that the needle punctures both button holes precisely.
• Adjust the stitch width if necessary. Sew around 10 stitches. To sew on a button with a thread shank, lay a straight pin or sewing machine needle between the button bores and sew over the pin or needle.

Tip: You can secure the seam by pulling and knotting the two threads on the wrong side of the fabric.

Blind stitching

SETTINGS:
Presser foot - blind stitch foot
Upper thread tension - 5
The blind stitch is used mostly for invisible hemming of household textiles, trousers and skirts etc.

	100 stitch pattern: 04, 05, 07 80 stitch pattern: 04, 05, 07 60 stitch pattern: 04, 05, 07
	Simple blind stitch for normal, firm fabrics
	Elastic blind stitch for stretch fabrics and fine fabrics

1. Work the cut edge first: with fine fabrics, fold the edge, finish the edge in medium and heavy duty fabrics. Then iron the hem and tack it with pins.
2. Now fold the fabric with the wrong side upwards, as shown in the picture.
3. Lay the fabric and button under the presser foot in this way. Turn the handwheel anti-clockwise until the needle swivels to the left completely. It is important that the needle with its left block barely pierces the fold.
   Note: For a narrower or broader blind hem, adjust the stitch length and width first as desired. Then adjust the guide.
   • Sew slowly and guide the fabric smoothly along the guide.
4. The blind stitch is practically invisible on the top side.
   Note: Sewing a sample is recommended as this technique requires a little practice.

Stretch stitches

SETTINGS:
Presser foot - standard foot
Transport cover plate
The stretch stitches are especially suitable for elastic materials and knitted fabrics. But you can also use them for normal, firm fabrics.

Stretch straight stitch

The stretch-straight stitch is much stronger than the normal straight stitch because it binds the fabric with three stitches - forwards, backwards and forwards again. Therefore it is suitable for elastic fabrics, for seam reinforcement in sports clothing - whether elastic or non-elastic - and for all especially resilient seams. You can also use it for decorative purposes e.g. on collars and cuffs to give your clothing a professional finish.

100 stitch pattern: 01 80 stitch pattern: 01 60 stitch pattern: 01

Honeycomb stitch

The honeycomb stitch is ideal for smocking and for sewing on elastic threads, also on corsetry articles.

100 stitch pattern: 09 80 stitch pattern: 09 60 stitch pattern: 09

1. Sew several straight stitches at equal intervals on the garment that you would like to smock.
2. Sew on an elastic band using honeycomb stitch between the straight stitches.
3. The straight stitches can then be removed.

Overlock stitch

The professional stitch is used for the manufacturing of sports clothing. You can sew and edge-finish in one operation.
The overlock stitch is very suitable for the repair of frayed and worn edges of clothing that has been subjected to frequent wear.

100 stitch pattern: 10, 11 80 stitch pattern: 10, 11 60 stitch pattern: 10, 11

Feather stitch

This attractive stitch can be used as a decorative stitch, for sewing lace or applications onto linen or belts. Also ideal for quilting and hemstitching.

100 stitch pattern: 12 80 stitch pattern: 12 60 stitch pattern: 12

Stretch zigzag stitch

The stretch - zigzag stitch is mainly used as a decorative lockstitch. Ideal for working edges on necklines, sleeves or hems.
Resilient seams can be achieved by adjusting the stitch width to a lower setting manually.

100 stitch pattern: 13 80 stitch pattern: 13 60 stitch pattern: 13

Double overlock stitch

This stitch has three main uses.
Very good for sewing on flat elastic bands for the sewing or repairing of underwear and for the simultaneous sewing and edging of slightly elastic and non-elastic fabrics such as linen, tweed and medium to heavy cotton.

100 stitch pattern: 14 80 stitch pattern: 14 60 stitch pattern: 14

This stitch is perfect for sewing on elastic braids. You can also use it for smocking and hemming.

100 stitch pattern: 76 80 stitch pattern: 64 60 stitch pattern: 53

Cross stitch

For the sewing and edging of elastic fabrics and for decoration of edges, in particular.

100 stitch pattern: 15 80 stitch pattern: 15 60 stitch pattern: 15

Entredeux stitch

This stitch is used for decorating edges and traditional embroidery patterns. You need a wing needle for the hollow seam technique.
Tip: By slightly increasing the thread tension, you can achieve larger embroidery holes with the wing needle.

100 stitch pattern: 16 80 stitch pattern: 16 60 stitch pattern: 16

Ladder stitch

The ladder stitch is mainly used for hollow seams. But it is also used to sew on narrow bands, also in contrasting colours. Decorative effects can be achieved by targeted placing of the stitch patterns. The ladder stitch is also suitable for satin stitch embroidery on narrow bands, cords and elastic bands. Hollow seams are most successful on coarser linen fabrics. After carrying out the ladder stitch, pull the threads along the inner edges of the ladder pattern to achieve an airy effect.

100 stitch pattern: 17 80 stitch pattern: 17 60 stitch pattern: 17

Picot stitch

The picot stitch is a traditional stitch pattern for lacy, decorative hem seams and applique.

100 stitch pattern: 18, 19 80 stitch pattern: 18, 19 60 stitch pattern: 18, 19

Edging stitch

The edging stitch is a traditional hand embroidery pattern for edging tablecloths. But it is extremely versatile, e.g. for sewing on fringes, bias binding, applique and for satin stitch embroidery and hollow seams.

100 stitch pattern: 20, 21 80 stitch pattern: 20, 21 60 stitch pattern: 20, 21

Inclined edging stitch

Excellent for the decoration of table cloths and bedding. You can achieve lacy effects on smooth fabrics. Sew along the unfinished fabric edge and trim the fabric close to the outside of the stitch.

100 stitch pattern: 22, 23 80 stitch pattern: 22, 23 60 stitch pattern: 22, 23

Stretch overlock stitch

With the elastic overlock stitch, you can sew and edge-finish in one operation and obtain a narrow and even seam. Especially suitable for swimwear and sports clothing as well as T-shirts, elastic infant clothing and jersey.

100 stitch pattern: 24, 25 80 stitch pattern: 24, 25 60 stitch pattern: 24, 25

Russian cross stitch

For the sewing and edging of elastic fabrics and for decoration of edges.

100 stitch pattern: 27 80 stitch pattern: 27 60 stitch pattern: 27

Greek stitch

Traditional stitch pattern for decorating edges, borders and decorative hem seams.

100 stitch pattern: 29 80 stitch pattern: 28 60 stitch pattern: 28

Herringbone stitch

Mainly for decorating with the machine.

100 stitch pattern: 34 80 stitch pattern: 32 60 stitch pattern: -

Thorn stitch

This stitch has versatile uses in joining pieces together and for decorative purposes.

100 stitch pattern: 35 80 stitch pattern: 33 60 stitch pattern: -

Faggot stitch

SETTINGS:
Presser foot - standard foot
Upper thread tension - 5
This popular, decorative stitch is frequently used for the sleeves and fronts of blouses and ladies´ clothing. Leave some space between the two fabrics when you are sewing together.
First fold over the seam allowance at the cut edge and iron. Then tack the folded over edges to tissue paper with a distance of approx. 0.3 cm. Sew over this 0.3 cm gap so that the needle pierces the fabric on the right and on the left. Remove the tacking stitches and tissue paper and iron.

100 stitch pattern: 80 80 stitch pattern: 66 60 stitch pattern: 54

Stretch patchwork stitch

Apart from its decorative effect, this stitch pattern is suitable for patchworking with elastic fabrics such as jersey and knitted fabrics.

100 stitch pattern: 86 80 stitch pattern: 71 60 stitch pattern:

More decorative stitches & ideas for decoration

SETTINGS:
Presser foot - caterpillar foot
Upper thread tension - 5 or -1
Examples of how these stitches are to be sewn and used are shown below. You can use other decorative stitches for the same purpose. You should do a test on an extra piece of fabric to check the decorative pattern you would like to use. Before you begin sewing, check that there is enough thread on the bobbin so that you will not run out of thread while sewing. For the best results, reinforce your fabric with a removable or rinsable stabiliser.
Tip: The lower thread should not appear on the top side of the tissue; otherwise it could be necessary to set the tension a little lower.

Buttonholes

Automatic buttonholes

USING THE BUTTONHOLE FOOT
Your sewing machine provides patterns for buttonhole caterpillars in 2 different widths and for eye holes and eyelet and round buttonholes and is equipped with a system for measuring the button size and determining the required buttonhole length. Everything is achieved in one single operation.

1. Block A
2. Block B

PREPARATION FOR SEWING

• You should lay backing or tissue paper etc. under the fabric in the region of the buttonhole.
• For a trial, sew a buttonhole in a remnant of your fabric. Try it out with the chosen button.
  

  	100 stitch pattern: 94, 95 80 stitch pattern: 74, 75 60 stitch pattern: 56, 57
  	100 stitch pattern: 96, 97 80 stitch pattern: 76, 77 60 stitch pattern: 58, 59
  	100 stitch pattern: 98, 99 80 stitch pattern: 78, 79 60 stitch pattern: –, –

1. Select one of the two buttonhole patterns.
2. Attach the buttonhole foot (D) (see chapter „Changing the sewing foot").
3. Lay the button into the buttonhole foot (see above, „Using the buttonhole foot").
4. Lower the buttonhole lever (C ) so that it is positioned vertically between the two blocks (A) and (B).
5. Mark the position of the buttonhole carefully on your fabric.
6. Lay the fabric under the buttonhole foot. Draw approx. 10 cm of the lower thread under the fabric backwards.
7. Bring the marking on your fabric and the marking on the buttonhole foot together and lower the buttonhole foot.
8. Hold the upper thread lightly and start the machine.
   • The sewing program runs automatically according to the following sequence.
     
     1. Alignment of the buttonhole foot
     2. Marking on the fabric
9. When you have finished sewing the button hole, cut it open with the cutter. Ensure that you do not damage the sewn buttonhole.
   

Buttonholes with cord

Hook filler cord (crochet thread or buttonhole twist) to the notch of the presser foot, draw both threads under the presser foot and knot them to the front side as shown. Sew the buttonhole so that the zigzag stitches cover the cord. When the buttonhole is sewn, loosen the knots and trim both ends of the thread.

1. Cam

Cleaning and care

Cleaning and care of the sewing machine

Disconnect the plug from the socket before you carry out any maintenance or clean the machine.
To guarantee long-term, proper functioning, your machine must be regularly cleaned to remove fluff and dust.

1. Hook
2. Hook path cover
3. Bobbin casing
4. Hook drive
5. Holder(s)
6. Feed dog

Cleaning the hook region

1. Bring the needle to the top position.
2. 1. Take the bobbin casing out of the hook.
   2. Press the two holders outwards.
   3. Remove the hook and the hook path cover.
3. Clean the feed dog and the hook area with the brush.
   ATTENTION! Apply a drop of sewing machine oil to the central pin of the hook and the hook drive; see arrow.
4. 1. The hook drive must be positioned like a crescent on the left side.
   2. Hold the hook by the central pin and insert it so that it is positioned like a crescent on the right side.
   3. Put on the hook path cover.
   4. Close the holders by pressing inwards.

Optional accessories

Large extension table
To mount the extension table, open the support base and push the guide pins of the table as shown into the openings A, B, C and D on the machine.

1. Extension table
2. Support base

Useful tips for trouble shooting

General disturbances

Problems with stitches

Problems with thread

Special accessories

Roller foot

Attach the roller foot if you are sewing leather, suede, plastic and velvet so that the fabric will glide more easily. Better results will possibly be achieved with the normal zigzag foot if you are sewing soft leather or suede.

Special foot for invisible zippers

The special foot for invisible zippers allows the concealed closing of numerous pieces of clothing and accessories. This kind of zipper is often found on the sides or backs of skirts and dresses.

Preparation of the machine

• Attaching the foot for invisible zippers
• Set the machine to straight stitch
• Set the stitch length to the medium range
• Ensure that the needle position is aligned

1. Open the zipper by pulling down the slider and holding the top end of the zipper firmly.
2. Position the zipper with left side facing upwards and tack it onto the right side along the seam of the right side of the piece of clothing. The teeth of the zipper point to the inside of the seam.
3. Align the teeth of the zipper to the right groove of the zipper foot. The needle is piecing through the band of the zipper beside the teeth.
4. If possible, sew from the top to the bottom and sew several step stitches at the beginning and end of the seam.
5. The other side of the zipper must be sewn now. Turn over the zipper twice to the left and then align the band of the opposite side of the zipper to the seam on the left side of the piece of clothing.
6. Align the teeth of the zipper to the left groove of the zipper foot.
7. If possible, sew from the top to the bottom and sew several step stitches at the beginning and end of the seam.
8. Close the zipper.
9. Take off the special foot for concealed zippers and attach the normal zipper foot.
10. Sew a 1.5 cm seam to the bottom seam. Begin as closely as possible to the zipper.

Sew on button foot

The sew on button foot holds the button firmly while it is being sewn onto a piece of clothing or another item.

Preparation of the machine

• Lower or cover the hook
• Foot: Screw on the sew on button foot
• Stitch: straight stitch

Sewing instructions

1. Attach the darning plate and lay the fabric under the sewing foot.
2. Position the button under the foot and ensure that the holes in the button are aligned to the foot opening.
3. Adjust the needle position (left needle position) to ensure that the needle penetrates through the opening (the hole) in the left side of the button. (Always check the width by turning the handwheel manually before you begin sewing.)
4. Fix the end of the thread by sewing three or more stitches.
5. Select zigzag stitch.
6. Adjust the width to ensure that the needle penetrates the button during the movement from left to right in both openings (holes). (Always check the width by turning the handwheel manually before you begin sewing.)
7. Sew ten zigzag stitches.
8. Select straight stitch.
9. Check that the needle in the left opening (the left hole) is aligned in the button.
10. Fix the end of the thread by sewing three or more stitches.

Blind stitch foot A

The main purpose of the blind stitch is to sew practically invisible hems on curtains, trousers, skirts etc.

Preparation of the machine

• Attach the blind stitch foot
• Select stitch: 04 or 07
• Set the tension to 5

Sewing instructions

1. Tidy the edge with matching thread. For fine fabrics, tuck over the fabric and press a narrow seam of maximum 1.3 cm. For medium to heavy-duty fabrics, sew the cut edge of the fabric in overlock.
2. Now fold the fabric so that the wrong side is facing upwards.
3. Lay the fabric under the sewing foot. Turn the handwheel towards you (anti-clockwise) until the needle has reached the utmost left position. You must have pierced the fold of the fabric. If this is not the case, change the guide (B) of the blind stitch foot (A) so that the needle will go straight through the fabric fold and the guide lies on the fold. Sew slowly and carefully guide the fabric along the guide edge.
4. When the work is completed, the stitches will be barely visible on the right side.
   Note: Sewing blind hems requires practice. Sew a sample first.

	Elastic blind stitch for stretch fabrics and fine fabrics.
	Regular blind stitch for normal woven fabrics.

Overlock foot

With this foot, uniform, accurate overlock stitches can be sewn for a chain finish on a sewing machine. The thread is lopped around the fabric edge and aligned to the edge to prevent the fabric from fraying.

Preparation of the machine

• Insert overlock foot
• Select: No. 8 (stitch width 5.0)
• Or: No. 10 or 14 (stitch width 5.0-7.0)
• Set the tension to 5

Sewing instructions
Press the fabric against the guiding edge of the overlock foot so that the needle pierces the fabric near to the edge of the seam.

1. No. 03 (width=5.0) is used to prevent the fabric from fraying.
2. -c. No. 10 and 14 can sew overlock stitches and normal stitches at the same time. They are therefore suitable for sewing fabrics that easily fray and for sewing elastic fabrics.
   
   To prevent accidents, the overlock foot should only be used for the sewing patterns 03, 10 and 14. The stitches should neither be narrower than 5.0, nor should the sewing mode be changed or the stitch extended. This procedure could lead to the needle colliding with the presser foot and breaking.

Important safety instructions

You should always observe the basic safety instructions when you use the machine. Read all the instructions attentively before you use the machine.
ATTENTION!
To prevent electric shocks:

• Never leave the machine unattended while it is connected to the power supply. Remove the mains plug from the socket after every use as well as before cleaning the machine.

The mains voltage (voltage of the socket connection) must comply with the voltage of the motor.

• The machine may only be used for the purposes described in this handbook. Only use the accessories which are recommended by the manufacturer in these instructions for use.
• Disconnect the plug from the socket or switch off the machine to do any work in the region of the needle such as threading the needle, or hook or to the needle, needle plates, or changing the presser foot.
• Disconnect the plug of the sewing machine from the socket to remove covers, for lubrication or other maintenance work, which are described in these instructions and are carried out by the user.
• It is prohibited to make adjustments to the motor belt yourself. You must contact the service representative if such adjustments are necessary.
• Do not pull the mains plug by grasping the lead, pull the plug out of the socket.
• Handle the foot control carefully and do not let it fall to the ground. In particular, no objects may be placed on the foot control.
• Always use the correct needle plate. The wrong needle plate can cause the needle to break.
• Do not use bent needles.
• Keep your fingers away from any moving parts while sewing. Special caution is required in the vicinity of the needle of the sewing machine.
• Do not pull or push the sewn fabric while you are sewing. This can bend or break the needle.
• Only lift or carry the machine using the handle.
• The machine may not be operated if the lead or mains plug is damaged, the machine is not operating properly, has fallen to the floor or has become damaged or wet. If an overhaul or repair work is necessary or electrical or mechanical adjustments are required, bring the machine to your next contractual retailer or to the customer service.
• The machine may not be operated if venting ports are sealed. Keep the venting ports of the machine and foot control free from fluff, dust and loose tissue.
• Do not allow any objects to fall into the openings of the machine.
• Do not operate the machine outdoors.
• The machine may not be operated in locations where aerosol sprays or pure oxygen are used.
• The machine may not be used as a toy. Maximum attention is called for if the machine is being operated in the presence of children.
• Do not expose the machine or the machine case to direct sunlight or to an extremely hot or humid room climate.
• Do not touch the machine or foot control with wet hands, wet cloths or other wet objects.
• Do not connect the mains plug to a multiple socket to which several leads of other appliances are connected.
• Only use the machine on a level and stable table.
• Prior to every start-up, close the free-arm and hook cavity cover of the machine.
• Keep the sewing feet and needles out of reach of children.
• Do not take the machine apart or change it yourself.
• Ensure than the main switch is switched off and the mains plug is disconnected from the socket before you carry out any maintenance of the machine.
• If the power cable is damaged, it must be replaced by the manufacturer, retailer or another qualified person to eliminate potential hazards.
• This appliance may be used by children age 8 years and up, as well as by persons with reduced physical, sensory or mental capacities, or lacking experience and/or knowledge, so long as they are supervised or instructed in the safe use of the appliance and understand the associated risks. Children should not be allowed to play with the appliance. Cleaning and user maintenance should not be performed by children without supervision.
• Always switch off the machine when you leave it unattended.
• Pull out the mains plug from the socket prior to maintenance.
• If the lighting unit is damaged, it must be replaced by authorised retailer.

Service

Bogod & Company Ltd.
Fortran Road, St Mellons, CF3 0WJ Cardiff, GB
0044-29-20774910
IAN 59032
For all inquiries about your product, please have your receipt and the article number (e.g. IAN 12345) ready as your proof of purchase.