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6.
Inspect the flywheel Trigger and Stator magnets to see if they are loose or broken. Disconnect the Rectifier and retest. If the spark
returns, replace the Rectifier.
7.
Disconnect Red and Red/White wires and retest. If the DVA tests above is withing specifications, the Switchbox is usually bad.
NO SPARK ON 2 CYLINDERS (4 CYLINDER ENGINE):
1.
DVA test Stator (see NO SPARK ON AN CYLINDER).
2.
Swap the Blue with the Blue/white Stator leads, and the Red with the Red/white Stator leads to see if the no spark problem changes. If
it does, the Stator is bad. If the problem remains on the same cylinder(s), the Switchbox or Trigger is probably at fault.
HIGH SPEED MISFIRE OR WEAK HOLE SHOT:
1.
Connect DVA meter to the Blue and Blue/white wires and do a running test. The voltage should show a smooth climb and stabilize,
gradually falling off at higher RPM's (above 3,000). If you see a sudden drop in voltage right before the miss becomes apparent, the
Stator is likely at fault.
2.
Connect DVA meter to the Red and Red/white wires. The voltage should show a smooth climb throughout the RPM range, a sudden
drop or decline in voltage indicates a problem usually found in the Stator, although a Rectifier can cause the same symptom.
3.
Disconnect Rectifier and retest. If the problem disappears, replace the Rectifier and retest.
4.
Rotate the Stator one bolt hole in either direction and test. If the miss is gone, leave the Stator as is. If the miss is the same or worse,
rotate the Stator back where it was.
ENGINE WILL NOT STOP (KILL):
1.
Disconnect the Black/Yellow (or Orange) wire(s) at the Switchbox. Connect a jumper wire to the stop wire from the Switchbox and short
it to engine ground. If this stops the Switchbox from sparking, the stop circuit has a fault. Check the key switch, harness, and shift
switch (if present). If this does not stop the Switchbox from sparking, replace the Switchbox.
BATTERY CHARGING ISSUES:
1.
Regardless of whether the charging issue is overcharging or not charging at all, the #1 cause of all charging issues is the battery often
due to improper style and/or charging neglect. #2 is the battery's connections. #3 is the Rectifier. #4 is the Stator.
2.
The recommended type of battery for outboards is a single (NOT more than one) 850+ CCA dual purpose or cranking/starting non-
maintenance-free battery.
Non-maintenance-free batteries (lead-acid flooded cell; has vent caps on its top) have heavy, thick plates. They're ideal for outboards,
3.
where batteries are commonly drained by accessories while fishing, etc. when there is no charge applied to a battery while the battery
is in use. Its heavy plates can withstand constant discharging and charging. These batteries have much more reserve time and are
much more suited for this behavior.
NOTE: Some Maintenance free batteries will have vented caps on top. When in doubt, change the battery to a non-
maintenance free type.
4.
Maintenance-free batteries should NEVER be used in an Outboard application. A new, fully charged maintenance-free battery may
work fine at first but their life span is dramatically shortened due to the constant charging and discharging. This activity will cause the
cells to become weak, and/or the cells will become dead. When this happens, the battery is unable to accept a full charge, thus putting
the Regulator at extreme risk of failure. Therefore, maintenance-free style batteries commonly cause charging issues shortly after
installation.
5.
Check all battery connections, particularly at engine ground. Make sure that all connections are tight and free of corrosion. Do NOT use
wing nuts as they tend to loosen over a period of time from vibration. A loose connection WILL cause a premature battery and/or
Rectifier failure(s).
6.
If there is no change, try a single (NOT more than one) known good fully charged battery that is 850+ CAA Dual Purpose, or a
cranking/starting battery that is non-maintenance free. Make sure the battery is a lead acid flooded cell battery (has vent caps on its
top).
7.
Measure the DVA across the Stator's Yellow battery charge wires, while connected to the Rectifier. At idle the DVA will normally
between 8-25 DVA. If not, disconnect the Yellow wires from the Rectifier and retest. DVA will normally be 17-50 DVA at idle. If the
voltage is low, the Stator is possibly faulty. Perform a visual of the Stator for browning and varnish dripping. These are signs that the
Stator has overheated. If the visual inspection shows any of these signs, replace the Stator.
Web Support:
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Rev H • 6/19/2023
Installation and Troubleshooting Guide
This installation is to be completed by an Authorized Dealer or Professional Service
Technician. For questions regarding installation or warranty, call CDI Tech Support
at 866-423-4832. Do not return to the Dealer or Distributor where the part was purchased.
Contact CDI Electronics Directly for Return Material Authorization.
CDI Electronics, LLC • 353 James Record Road SW • Huntsville, AL 35824 USA
www.cdielectronics.com
• Tech Support: 1-866-423-4832 • Order Parts: 1-800-467-3371
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