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Improper service of dive equipment can lead to severe injury or death. Dive Gear Express recommends that non-qualified individuals seek professional training/mentoring before attempting repairs or servicing on any diving equipment.
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Cleaning and Rinsing - General Considerations (11) Cleaning and rinsing of components should be done using clean, fresh water. (12) Only use degreasers that leave no organic residue (e.g., Extreme Simple Green , Blue Gold Cleaner, or any clear liquid dish soap that does not contain scents or dyes). (13) To remove corrosion, use a 50/50 vinegar/water solution and nylon brushes.
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Cleaning of Regulator Parts (16) Cleaning of parts that are going to be reused is one of the most critical steps in servicing the regulator. As was stated earlier, use the proper solutions for the job at hand. Removal of hydrocarbons and debris should be accomplished before attempting removal of corrosion.
Inspection After Cleaning (21) Before assembling the regulator, it is necessary to inspect all the cleaned components. Using a magnifying glass or inexpensive USB microscope, ensure all parts are clean and contaminant-free, and check the components for damage that may have been hidden by corrosion or lubricant. Look for scratches that may affect the sealing surfaces of the regulator.
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This involves using a small clean plastic bag containing a small amount of lubricant. The O-ring is inserted into the bag, worked around to evenly coat with lube while squeezing off excess, then taken out of the bag and used in its location - Fig. 2. Fig.
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3/16” and 1/16” Hex Keys Tribolube 71 Fig. 3 (1) A Brass O-Ring Pick Set can be found at Dive Gear Express using the link below. https://www.divegearexpress.com/tools/scuba-tools (2) Tools may also be purchased from Scuba Tools at the link below.
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3. Preliminary Testing (1) Preliminary testing of the regulator is necessary to identify any problems and verify the overall regulator and BCD valve function. This testing will include: Visual inspection of the regulator Inspection of the hoses Cracking effort and negative pressure test Inflation and exhaust valve tests Visual inspection is done to identify issues that could affect servicing and to ensure that pressurizing the system will not compromise the safety of the service technician.
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4. Regulator Evaluation (1) The negative pressure test verifies the seals of the Diaphragm and Exhaust Valve, confirms proper O-ring seal and verifies housing integrity. With the supply pressure off, and attached to a first stage on a cylinder, attempt a normal breath from the backup regulator. You should be unable to draw any air. If flow is obtained, remove the regulator from the hose and try to draw air while sealing the hose inlet with your finger.
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5. Regulator Disassembly (1) Ensure the system is depressurized. The use of small, clean containers to hold parts is recommended. (2) In the following steps, the part numbers from the schematic will be used with their description. The numbers on the photos also correspond with the parts list on the schematic. Items in the service kit are identified in the same way.
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4. Unlock the Retainer Ring (42) by depressing all four tabs in the slots in the Main Body with a stubby slotted screwdriver - Fig. 5. Remove the purge cover assembly consisting of the Retaining Ring (42), the Purge Cover (41) and the Diaphragm Washer (40). Run a blunt brass spade around the rim to break any seal between the Diaphragm (39) and the Main Body.
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6. Maintaining pressure on the Inflation Button (14), use a flat-bladed screwdriver in the slot in the Cone Seat (11) to unscrew it completely - Fig. 8. Releasing pressure on the Inflation Button, remove the Inflation Button assembly from the Main Body. Remove the Spring (13). Fig.
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8. Using the tips of heavy 90° circlip pliers set on either side of the center bar in the Exhaust Cover (15), loosen the cover, then unscrew and remove it by hand - Fig. 11. Fig. 11 9. Carefully lift the edges of the Exhaust Valve and insert the circlip pliers on opposite sides of the two spokes in the Exhaust Retainer (17) - Fig.
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10. Use a thin brass pick to remove the Exhaust Retainer O-ring (18*) - Fig. 13. Fig. 13 11. While maintaining pressure on the Oral Button (24), and using a 5.5 mm nut driver, unscrew and remove the Nut (19*) from the center of the Exhaust Seal (20) - Fig. 14. Fig.
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12. Release pressure on the Oral Button and remove the Exhaust Seal - Fig. 15. Inspect its edges for cracking or damage. Fig. 15 13. Remove the Oral Button assembly from the Main Body and separate its four parts: Oral Button (24), Spring (23), Washer (22) and O-ring (21*) - Fig.
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14. Stretch the Dust Cap (06) away from the Inlet Stem (28) until it is free of its groove and slide it off - Fig 17. Insert a 5/32” flat-bladed screwdriver in the slot in the C-Clip (07) between it and the Inlet Stem (28) and twist the screwdriver so that the clip is forced out - Fig 18.
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16. Using a 13mm open-end wrench set against the thin flats of the Inlet Stem (28), and an adjustable wrench attached to the flats on the Valve Housing (35), loosen and unscrew the two parts - Fig. 20. Fig. 20 17.
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18. Using a thin brass pick, remove the O-ring (29*) from the Crown Orifice, protecting the knife edge from contact with metal parts, and remove both O-rings (27*) from the Inlet Stem. 19. Thread the Spider 2 tool into the Valve Housing and screw it in until the lever just begins to drop - Fig.
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(3) The photographs below show the disassembled regulator - Fig. 27 - and Service Parts Kit - Fig. 28. All the parts not in the service kit need to be washed, rinsed and dried, as discussed previously. O-rings and washers that will be replaced with new from the service kit should be discarded. Fig.
6. Regulator Assembly (1) Before starting the assembly of the second stage, complete a thorough inspection of all parts to be reused. Refer to the Overview Inspection section above for details. At this time, open the service kit and lay out the parts. Use the schematic to identify each part. Caution Note: Only use enough lubricant to lightly coat the O-rings and ensure no debris is trapped on them.
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2. Insert the shaft of the Inflation Button into the hole in the Main Body (08) and slightly compress the spring until the threaded end just appears on the other side - Fig 31. Drop the Cone Seat into the recess, O-ring down, and use a screwdriver to tighten the Cone Seat - Fig.
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5. Inverting the Oral Button assembly, carefully align the shaft and insert it in the bore in the Main Body. 6. Pressing the Oral Button so that the shaft is just protruding, place the Exhaust Seal (20), metal center up, onto the shaft end - Fig 34. Fig.
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8. Add a lightly lubricated O-ring (18*) to the land on the back of the Exhaust Retainer (17). Generously lubricate the lower threads in the Main Body for the Exhaust Retainer and add a thin line of lubricant to the thread on the Exhaust Retainer - Fig, 37. Pinching the Exhaust Valve leaflet so the spokes of the Retainer are visible, use your fingertips to engage the thread in the Main Body.
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11. Drop the seat assembly and spring into the Valve Housing (35), threaded end down. Thread the Spider 2 tool into the Valve Housing and screw it in until the square portion of the Stem protrudes from the top of the Valve Housing. 12.
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14. Add two O-rings (27*) to the lands in the Inlet Stem (28). Add a lightly lubricated O-ring (29*) to the Crown Orifice (30), protecting the knife edge. 15. Press the Crown Orifice into the smooth recess in the Inlet Stem until it is fully seated - Fig. 45. While depressing the lever to retract the Seat, thread the Inlet Stem assembly into the Valve Housing - Fig.
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17. Locate the molded flats inside the Main Body (08) along the bore for the Valve Housing/Inlet Stem assembly, and then find the corresponding flats on the assembly. With the Lever facing away from the mouthpiece opening, push the assembly into the bore by aligning the two sets of flats - Fig. 48. Fig.
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7. Regulator Tuning and Final Assembly (1) Second stage testing and adjustment can be accomplished by using a regulated supply or any cylinder of air. There is no required tank pressure as the second stage is supplied by a first stage delivering air at Intermediate Pressure (IP).
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4. The Lever tip should be 1 - 2 mm below the oval case rim - Fig. 52. If the lever is higher than this, unscrew the nut with a 5.5 mm nut driver until the lever drops to 1 mm below the rim. If the lever is lower than 2 mm below the rim, after confirming that there is some slack in the lever, tighten the nut until it is 1 - 2 mm below the case rim.
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9. Add a lightly lubricated O-ring (04*) to the regulator end (non-barbed end) of the Hose Connector Assembly (01). Push the Hose Connector Assembly into the Main Body and tighten the threaded collar finger tight. This completes reassembly and tuning of the BCI Backup Regulator.
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8. Testing for Cracking Effort (1) Cracking effort is the suction required to depress the lever and allow air to flow through the second stage. It is measured in inches of water. A magnehelic gauge is one method of measuring this pressure. The gauge is attached to the second stage, and a normal breath is taken.
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(4) General Troubleshooting – Not all possibilities may be noted. Failed negative pressure check Diaphragm damaged; cracked Main Body; damaged O-rings; bad Exhaust Seal or Valve Free flowing Orifice misadjusted; excessive IP; damaged LP Seat, Crown Orifice or orifice O-ring No airflow IP extremely low;...
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