Summary of Contents for Eggtimer Rocketry Eggtimer Classic
- Page 1 Eggtimer Flight Computer Assembly Manual Board Rev D © 2013-2018 Eggtimer Rocketry All Rights Reserved...
- Page 2 Before You Start… • Go to our web site at www.eggtimerrocketry.com and download the latest Release Notes. • Go to our web site at www.eggtimerrocketry.com and download the latest Assembly Instructions. • Read them thoroughly before starting… it will save you some grief later, we promise! •...
- Page 3 Each installation step has a check-off line, we strongly recommend that you check them off as you go, and that you perform the steps in sequence. We have listed the steps in order to make it easiest to assemble the Eggtimer, deviating from them isn’t going to make your life any easier.
- Page 4 You may also want to buy a portable battery-powered or butane soldering iron to have in the field, in case you need to tin a wire or repair a solder joint in the field. They work fine, but we recommend that you do not use them to assemble the Eggtimer, they generally do not put out as much heat as the electric irons and you may not get really good solder joints, especially if you use non-leaded solder which has a higher melting point than leaded solder.
- Page 5 one is marked “- - - - -“ on the side of the case) 6mm push button switch 6-pin header OPTIONAL 4-Pin Locking Headers (not shown in this picture) Note that some of the components, notably the Atmel processor and the surface-mounted components pre-soldered to the PC board are static sensitive, so you should avoid sources of static electricity while you are handling them.
- Page 6 part onto the board incorrectly, it can be a minor pain to remove if it only has two pins, or it can be virtually impossible for something with a lot of pins like the processor. The Eggtimer Limited Warranty does not cover incorrect assembly, so if you mess up badly enough you may end up having to get another kit and starting over;...
- Page 7 Mount the Atmel ATMega328P-PU processor Carefully remove the processor chip from the anti-static foam or tube in which it was shipped. Identify the notch at one end of the chip, this notch needs to line up with the notch that’s silkscreened on the PC board.
- Page 8 Mount the .1uF ceramic capacitors Insert the four .1 uF ceramic capacitors (marked “104”) into the appropriate holes. These are not polarized, so it doesn’t matter which way you mount them. Turn the board over and solder them to the board. Trim the excess leads. Mount the push button switch Insert the push button switch into the holes on the board.
- Page 9 Mount the YELLOW (RDY) LED Insert the YELLOW LED into the holes for the RDY LED (it may be clear, rather than yellow or orange). Note that the LED may be clear rather than yellow. Make sure that the LONG lead is in the hole maked “+”.
- Page 10 Mount the 1K Resistor (brown-black-red bands) Bend one lead back on the 1K resistor. Locate its position on the board, to the left of the yellow LED, and insert the resistor in the board. Turn over the board and solder the resistor in place, trimming the leads flush afterwards.
- Page 11 Mount the 3.9K Resistor (orange-white-red bands) Bend one lead back on the 3.9K resistor. Locate its position on the board, and insert the resistor in the board. Turn over the board and solder the resistor in place, trimming the leads flush afterwards.
- Page 12 Mount the 10K resistors (brown-black-orange bands) Bend one lead back on each of the six 10K resistors. Locate their positions on the board: two near the bottom left of the board, one at the upper left corner of the board, one in the upper side of the board between the two .1 uF capacitors, and two just to the left of the optoisoltors.
- Page 13 Mount the 10 uF electrolytic capacitor Insert the 10 uF electrolytic capacitor into the holes on the board, making sure that the lead with the “- - - -“ markings next to it is inserted OPPOSITE the hole marked “+”. The “- - - - “ band should be facing away from the processor chip.
- Page 14 Mount the pizo buzzer Insert the pizo buzzer into the holes on the board. It is not polarized, so it doesn’t matter which way you mount it. Turn over the board, and solder the leads to the pads. Trim the leads flush. Mount the resonator Insert the 16.000 MHz resonator into the holes on the board (marked “XTAL”), making sure that it seats completely.
- Page 15 Mount the Power Jumpers and/or Voltage Regulator The RevD Eggtimer board has two power options: You can use a 3V-4V battery without the voltage regulator (like the “classic” Eggtimer) or you can install the voltage regulator and use any battery from 4.5V-30V. Either way, you will have to install one or two jumpers to select your power option.
- Page 16 With a spare piece of resistor leads, install a jumper across each of the TWO sets of jumpers marked “9V”. You will probably need to hold them in place with some paper masking tape before you solder. Turn the board over, solder the jumpers in place, and trim the excess leads. Now, install the regulator in its spot on the board next to the two jumpers, making sure that it lines up with the outline silk-screened on the board.
- Page 17 Mount the transistors The deployment transistors can either be mounted on the top of the board or the bottom. If you mount them on the top of the board, the board will lay flatter on your sled, but the overall height will be taller than if you mount them on the bottom.
- Page 18 Turn over the PC board and insert them into the board FROM THE BOTTOM SIDE, they should be facing the front of the board (the side with the header). If you bent the transistor leads correctly, the plastic side of the transistors will be laying against the bottom of the PC board.
- Page 19 Locking Headers (Optional) The RevD Eggtimer has the wiring pads spaced to accept 4-pin locking headers. Using matching locking plugs, this allows you to easily remove the Eggtimer from the rocket by unplugging the locking headers. Note that the locking header kit includes 7 headers/sockets and the pins;...
- Page 20 Note: When you first get your Eggtimer, the flight memory is NOT initialized, and it is NOT ready for flight! Please see Appendix A in the Eggtimer Users Guide for instructions on how to clear the flight memory by performing a Master Reset.
- Page 21 circuit easily as well. You will need a suitable battery to power the Eggtimer (two AAA batteries work well if you chose the “3V” option, and a 9V battery works fine if you are using the regulator) and optionally a separate battery for deployment testing (a 9v battery works fine).
- Page 22 Eggtimer Build_1.53 Flight Settings T:23.50 LDA <50-500 by 50> P:97804.00 Burn/Coast Samp/sec: <4,5,8,10,15,20,25,33> A:975.39 Interval (ms) Main:0 Descent Samples/sec <1,2,4,5,10> CHB:0 Interval (ms) Batt:3.12 Main Mode <0-Off, 1-IGN, 2-Servo CCW, 3-Servo CW> Main Altitude <100-2000 by 50, 0 @ Apogee> Main ON-Time <1-9,0-Cont.>...
-
Page 23: Troubleshooting
tree bulb on the Main channel should come on for two seconds then turn off. To test the CHB channel, repeat the procedure, but hit “B” key to trigger the CHB channel. The CHB light should come on for two seconds, then shut off. If both of these work, then your Eggtimer is 100% operational. - Page 24 If you inserted a component incorrectly, you will have to carefully unsolder it, clear any solder residue from the holes, and resolder it. This can range from being relatively easy for some of the larger two-leaded components (LEDs, 10uF capacitor) to very difficult for the processor. If you find that a component was soldered incorrectly, you will have to use a vacuum bulb or vacuum desoldering tool to unsolder it.
-
Page 25: Appendix A - Typical Connections
Appendix A – Typical Connections Below is a picture from a test setup that we have for the Eggtimer. It is very typical of what you would use in a multiple-deployment rocket… a 3.7V LiPo battery for the Eggtimer’s computer, and a 9V battery for the deployment channels. You can see that the 9V battery is connected to both of the deployment channels’...