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INSTRUCTIONS FOR TWO-STEP LATCH OPERATION
1. Follow these instructions to operate you unit safely when operating the feed door.
2. Turn handle clockwise to the 12 o'clock position, pull the door open until you
engage the second step (Fig. 11).
3. Hold the door in that position for approximately 10 seconds.
4. Then to open door, turn the handle counter clockwise to the 9 o'clock position
and then continue to pull the door open. (Fig. 11A)
5. To close and latch the door, reverse steps 2 thru 4.
THIS NEW LATCHING MECHANISM MEETS CODES AND
PROVIDES MORE SAFETY FOR THE USER OF THIS STOVE.
Fig. 11
DURING OPENING AND CLOSING OF THE FEED AND ASH DOORS
OF THIS HEATER, IT MAY SEEM THAT THE FIT OF THE DOOR IS
"TOO TIGHT". AS THE HEATER IS FIRED, THE GASKETING
"SETTLES" OR "SEATS" ITSELF IN THE DOOR. THE TIGHT FIT AT
THE FACTORY AND BEFORE THE HEATER'S INITIAL FIRING IS TO
INSURE A GOOD SEAL AFTER THE GASKETING "SETTLES".
NOTE:
Fig. 11A
NOTE:
14
FIREPLACE INSTALLATION
Connection of the stovepipe directly
into the existing masonry chimney over
the fireplace opening is the only ap-
proved method. This installation per-
forms better, yielding easy to clean and
inspect for creosote. Before beginning
this type of installation plan carefully; a
high degree of skill is required to insure
safety.
An entry port for the stovepipe must be
cut through the chimney with minimum
damage to the fire clay liner. Some
involved measurements may be re-
quired to locate the flue liner exactly.
Before cutting, take time to mark the size
and position of the entry port. Position
the entry port so that at least 8 inches of
the flue liner remains below the port.
Keep in mind that mantels and combus-
tible trim around the fireplace must have
adequate clearances from the heater
and stovepipe or must be protected in
an approved manner. Also, be sure to
leave at least 18" clearance between
the top of the stovepipe and the com-
bustible ceiling or other combustibles.
Placing the center of the entry port 2 feet
below the ceiling will insure proper
clearance for 6 inch, 8 inch, and 10 inch
stovepipes. Next, install a fire clay (at
least 5/8 in. thick) or metal thimble,
being sure that the thimble is flush with
the inner flue lining, secure the thimble
in place with refractory mortar. The
thimble should be surrounded on all
sides with 8 inches of brickwork (solid
masonry units) or 24 inches of stone.
Install the stovepipe as far as possible
into the thimble, but not past the inside
of the flue lining. There should be a
small airspace (approximately 1/2 inch)
between the stovepipe and thimble,
allowing for expansion of the stove-
pipe. Seal this airspace with high-tem-
perature caulking or ceramic wool. Fi-
nally, be sure to wire the fireplace
damper close and apply the same seal-
ant you used at the stovepipe and
thimble junction.
Do not use the Type B installation (not
illustrated in this manual), that is, vent-
ing up through the fireplace opening,
regardless of whether the fireplace
opening is closed.
Masonry chimneys have several posi-
tive attributes: If properly built, they are
quite durable, and most homeowners
consider them more attractive perhaps
than a non-enclosed factory built chim-
ney. And, if the chimney is located
within the confines of the house (that is,
not attached to an exterior wall), its
mass alone will store heat longer and
continue to release the heat long after
the fire has died. Masonry chimneys
have many disadvantages though.
Masonry chimneys constructed on an
exterior wall are exposed to cold out-
door temperatures, promoting greater
heater loss, higher accumulations of
creosote, and reduced draft which leads
to reduced heater or furnace perfor-
mance.
Concrete block chimneys (when not
protected by a brick veneer) are inher-
ently unsafe, result in poor draft, and are
subject to rapid deterioration. They do
not meet code and are not recom-
mended.
7
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