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The Fire Brick D130 Instruction Booklet

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D130
Brick Oven
D130 PRECUT BRICK OVEN KIT
Instruction Booklet

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Summary of Contents for The Fire Brick D130

  • Page 1 D130 Brick Oven D130 PRECUT BRICK OVEN KIT Instruction Booklet...
  • Page 2 Our Wood Fired Brick Oven Kits are as authentic as you can get. With all the fire bricks cut to size, with custom formwork and tooling, building a quality Brick Oven has never been so simple.

  • Page 3: Table Of Contents

    Table of Contents CONTENTS INTRODUCTION � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � 5 BEFORE YOU BEGIN �...
  • Page 4 You really don’t need to be a skilled bricklayer to put this kit together - we have done all of the difficult work for you. You get the fun part, of putting it all together.

  • Page 5: Introduction

    Introduction Introduction Firstly, our congratulations and gratitude for the purchase of your D130 PreCut Brick Oven Kit! We have spent years crafting and perfecting our PreCut Brick Oven Kits, taking suggestions from customers and mentors, to create a product that we are truly proud of.

  • Page 6: Before You Begin

    Before You Begin Before You Begin COLD CLIMATES - WARNING If you’re building a Wood Fired Oven in a region that experiences ‘freeze-thaw’ conditions, where the frost is so severe that it penetrates deep into the ground, this is something that you need to be aware of when deciding on where and how to build your Wood Fired Oven.

  • Page 7: Notes & Updates

    3. The D130 PreCut Brick Oven Kit is a Commercial Spec Wood Fired Brick Oven. As such it has more of almost everything; 100mm of Calcium Silicate Subfloor Insulation Board, 100mm of fire brick as thermal mass for the Oven Floor and 75mm of Ceramic Fibre Blanket to insulate the brick dome.

  • Page 8: Safety Information

    Safety Information Safety Warning A MAJOR CAUSE OF UNINTENDED OVEN-RELATED FIRE IS FAILURE TO MAINTAIN REQUIRED CLEARANCES (AIR SPACES) TO NEARBY COMBUSTIBLE MATERIALS. IT IS OF THE HIGHEST IMPORTANCE THAT THIS OVEN BE INSTALLED ONLY IN ACCORDANCE WITH THESE INSTRUCTIONS. IF THIS OVEN IS NOT PROPERLY INSTALLED, AN UNINTENDED FIRE MAY RESULT.
  • Page 9 Clearances to Combustible Materials A major cause of oven-related property fire is failure to maintain the required clearances (air spaces) between the oven and combustible materials. When planning the location for your oven, ensure that you maintain clearances to all combustible materials, including but not limited to nearby walls, posts, ceiling structures and vegetation.
  • Page 10 Safe Installation Instructions DUST EXPOSURE – RESPIRABLE CRYSTALLINE SILICA Inhalation of airborne dust may cause irritation to the mucous membrane and upper airways. Symptoms can include coughing, sneezing and breathing difficulties. Repeated exposure to respirable silica may result in pulmonary fibrosis (silicosis). Silicosis is a fibronodular lung disease caused by deposition in the lungs of fine respirable particles of crystalline silica.
  • Page 11 Safe Usage Instructions WARNING: PLEASE READ ALL OF THE INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE INSTALLING AND USING YOUR WOOD FIRED OVEN� FAILURE TO FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS MAY RESULT IN FIRE, CARBON MONOXIDE POISONING OR EXPLOSION LEADING TO PROPERTY DAMAGE, BODILY INJURY, OR EVEN DEATH� SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS� If your oven is not installed properly, an unintended fire may result.

  • Page 12: Limited Warranty

    HOW TO REGISTER A CLAIM AGAINST WARRANTY In order for any claim under this Warranty to be valid, The Fire brick Company must be notified of the claimed defect in writing or by telephone to The Fire brick Company, Factory 11/167 Princes Hwy Hallam, Victoria 3803, Australia. Claims against this Warranty in writing...

  • Page 13: Layout Drawing

    Layout Drawing D130 Layout Drawing 50 mm Perlite Render Insulation 75 mm Ceramic Fibre Insulation 115 mm Fire Brick Dome Wall 7 inch PreCast Flue Gallery 520 mm Internal Dome Height 335 mm 345 mm 2x Layers 50 mm 2x Layers 50mm...
  • Page 14 All of the bricks come cut and ground to size. We provide you with templates, CNC machined formwork, a trammel tool, fibreglass dome form and much more. Your job is to assemble the kit like a big Lego set.

  • Page 15: What's In The Kit

    The fire bricks used in the oven floor are 38% Alumina, rated to 1350°C with an exceptionally hard wearing surface, and are 50mm thick. There are two layers of floor tiles in the D130, giving you 100mm of fire brick as the thermal mass for the oven floor - perfect for high turnover pizzerias.
  • Page 16 Dry Airset Refractory Mortar: 1 x 20kg bag This is the mortar you will use to lay the fire brick tiles that make up the oven floor. Please be aware that you will need to mix the Airset mortar with General Purpose Cement, Hydrated Lime and Washed Sand* in the ratio shown on the bag.
  • Page 17 What’s In the Kit ACRYLIC ROLL-ON BASECOAT RENDER 1 x 5L MAC ‘Rustic Roll-On’ Acrylic Render (White Basecoat) This is the membrane coating that you will apply over the outer dome, once the oven has been completely cured and all moisture has been driven out. It gives the dome a good waterproof basecoat which can be rolled over with more roll-on render, or other similar exterior acrylic coating.

  • Page 18: Additional Tools & Materials Required

    Addition Tools & Materials Required Additional Tools & Materials Required ADDITIONAL MATERIALS REQUIRED • 5 x 20kg Bags GP (General Purpose) Cement • 2 x 20kg Bag Hydrated Lime • 6 x 20kg Bags Washed Sand • Household aluminium foil •...

  • Page 19: Subfloor Insulation

    Subfloor Insulation 1. Subfloor Insulation The first step in building your oven is to prevent the heat in the oven floor from being conducted into your concrete slab, and from there into the surrounding air to be lost forever. We use Calcium Silicate (CalSil) board to do this, as it has excellent insulating properties, great compressive strength and is easy to work with.
  • Page 20 1. Sub Floor Insulation 1D - FIX CALSIL LAYERS TOGETHER The two layers of Calsil are deliberately cut to overlap each other. Use the long screws to fix the two layers together to prevent them from moving around when you’re laying the floor tiles. Suggested locations for the screws are shown in the image in step 1E.

  • Page 21: Laying The Floor Tiles

    Laying the Floor Tiles 2. Laying the Floor Tiles Fire bricks are very porous and will absorb a significant amount of water, so if you apply wet mortar to a dry fire brick this mortar will dry out and will not develop a good bond. To overcome this, soak your fire bricks in water for at least 10 minutes before you lay them.
  • Page 22 2. Laying the Floor Tiles FINISHED LAYOUT STARTING TILE FINISHED LAYOUT STARTING TILE...
  • Page 23 2. Laying the Floor Tiles Reminder - you need to watch the instructional videos to get a full understanding of the process, please don’t rely on these written instructions alone. Don’t feel like you need to watch them all at once - just watch the section that you’re about to do before you do it, so that it’s fresh in your mind.
  • Page 24 2. Laying the Floor Tiles 2E: GRIND HIGH EDGES If there are any raised edges at joints between the tiles, these can be ground back using an angle grinder with a masonry grinding disc or sanding disc. Do this before you build the dome, while you have easy access. Don’t grind the tiles unless you absolutely have to! Only grind the high spots that you might catch your oven tools on.

  • Page 25: Building The Dome

    Building the Dome 3. Building the Dome To lay the fire bricks for the dome and opening of the oven, you’ll use our two-part Refractory Mortar. Remember, fire bricks are very porous, so if you apply wet mortar to a dry fire brick this mortar will dry out immediately, and will not bond well to the brick.
  • Page 26 3. Building the Dome IDENTIFYING BRICKS FOR THE OVEN DOME There are five different types of brick in your kit for building the oven dome. Our kits are shipped around the world, so we make sure there are more bricks in the kit than you need. You’ll have several left at the end! TYPE 1 TYPE 2 Type 1 Bricks are tapered in only one plane, with a...
  • Page 27 Refractory Castable� Remember, the D130 requires Refractory Castable to fill large gaps, not the Mortar shown in the videos. The dome bricks butt up against the Entry Arch columns, but do not interlock with them. The joints between the dome brick courses will not line up with the joints in the Entry Arch columns - this is part of the design.
  • Page 28 3. Building the Dome BUILDING THE DOME You will build the dome one complete layer at a time, including the Vent and Entry Arch columns. You don’t have to complete a full row before you stop for the day, nor do you need to wait between courses. Build the dome at your own pace, taking your time and making sure you’re happy with the placement of each brick.
  • Page 29 3. Building the Dome 3E: COURSE 1 - SOLDIER COURSE This course is special, in that it uses Type 1 bricks laid on their side as a ‘soldier course’ with their taper pointing into the center of the oven. This course can be laid without the Trammel, using the floor tiles as guide for the inside face of the bricks.
  • Page 30 3. Building the Dome 3G: ENTRY & VENT COLUMN COURSE 3 Lay bricks L3 and R3, followed by the bricks for next layer of the vent arch columns. This layer ‘keys’ into the entry arch columns, using special bricks which are easy to identify in your kit.
  • Page 31 3. Building the Dome OPTIONAL THERMOWELL INSTALL If you purchased the optional Thermowell and Temperature Gauge to mount through the oven wall, take the Thermowell and lubricate the stem with vegetable oil (to prevent the mortar bonding to it). Set it in the base of a mortar joint between rows 3 and 4 as shown.
  • Page 32 3. Building the Dome Allow at least 12 hours for the Entry Arch bricks to set. You can leave the formwork in place for longer, however you will need to remove it before you set up the fibreglass dome formwork. When you’re ready, pull the plastic strips from under the formwork, which will allow you to carefully remove it.
  • Page 33 3. Building the Dome 3O: COURSE 7 Lay Dome Course 7. This course is made up of Type 2 and 1 bricks. 3P: COURSE 8 Lay Dome Course 8. This course is made up of Type 2 bricks, with small and large stagger bricks in the locations shown.
  • Page 34 3. Building the Dome 3Q: COURSE 9 Lay Dome Course 10. This row is made up of Type 2 bricks. Cleaning Tip - see update #2 on Page 7. 3R: COURSE 10 Lay Dome Course 11. This row is made up of Type 2 bricks only. Cleaning Tip - see update #2 on Page 7.
  • Page 35 We prefer to use the Refractory Castable; it sets just as hard and strong as the fire brick, and it makes the perfect keystone because it has complete surface contact with the surrounding ring of bricks.
  • Page 36 3. Building the Dome 3W: LAYING THE VENT ARCH You have reached the last step in your brickwork! Time to lay the Vent Arch – position the #2 Formwork at the very front of the oven, in line with the front edge of the two vertical columns. Remember to use the plastic strips which will help with removing the formwork after the arch has been laid.

  • Page 37: Installing The Flue Gallery

    Installing the Flue Gallery 4. Installing the Flue Gallery Now, it’s time to install the PreCast Flue Gallery. This is a job for two, due to the weight. Take your time and get this right, it’s hard to remove and do again. We recommend doing a dry run first. 4A: Wet the upper surfaces of the Vent Arch and Entry Arch bricks where the PreCast Flue Gallery is going to land.

  • Page 38: Insulating The Dome

    Insulating the Dome 5. Insulating the Dome You’ll now wrap the Oven Dome in Ceramic Fibre Blanket, which is the insulation material to prevent heat escaping from your brick dome. We provide you with green ‘Vet Exam’ gloves to protect your arms from the itchy fibres, also remember to wear the appropriate safety equipment.
  • Page 39 5. Insulating the Dome 5D: TIE WIRE Use the 125mm nails, hammering them into the CalSil board around the perimeter, 25mm above the base at roughly 300mm spacing. Leave about 20mm hanging out, as a fixing point for your tie wire. Use the heads of the nails as tie points to lash the blanket down against your dome using the tie wire provided.

  • Page 40: Oven Landing & Surrounds

    Oven Landing & Surrounds 6. Oven Landing and Surrounds Before you render the dome, finish the top of your concrete slab with tiles or stone, and seal off the exposed CalSil board at the sides and front of the Vent area using either our Stainless Steel Wrap, or an Oven Landing. If you do this now, it will be much easier to cut the tiles to fit as they don’t have to be cut very accurately.

  • Page 41: Perlite Render

    Perlite Render 7. Perlite Render To render over the Ceramic Fibre Blanket you’ll be using LiteFill Perlite – this is a lightweight aggregate that you’l use to make an insulating render mixture. The Perlite render layer serves two purposes – it forms a thick, hard shell over the insulation blanket, and it provides additional insulation to your oven dome.

  • Page 42: Installing The Standard Flue

    Installing the Standard Flue 8. Installing the Standard Flue If you’ve built your oven outdoors and the flue will be well clear of any combustible materials as per the diagram on page 9, you can install the standard flue for the oven following the steps detailed below. 8A: INSTALL THE FLUE Place the flue cowling (hat) on the plain end of the flue pipe, this is meant to be a snug, tight fit.

  • Page 43: Flue Installation Tips

    Flue Installation Tips Flue Installation Tips EXTENDING THE FLUE It’s very common to need to make your flue higher, and there’s no problem with that, in fact it will make the flue draw even better! Something to consider is how you will support the extra lengths.

  • Page 44: Curing The Oven

    Curing the Oven 9. Curing the Oven CURING THE OVEN Regardless of the weather conditions during your build, when you are finished your oven will still be holding water. Each brick was soaked before being laid, so your oven will be holding water in the walls, floor and CalSil board.

  • Page 45: Painting

    Painting 10. Painting PAINTING THE FLUE GALLERY The PreCast Flue Gallery comes in the kit in a plain cast finish, which is a light grey colour. You can leave it in this finish if you want a more natural look, or coat it with high temp paint which sets it off against the bricks. Make sure the oven is fully cured before you paint the flue gallery, to avoid blistering when the oven is fired.
  • Page 46 Examples...
  • Page 47 Examples...
  • Page 48 From the whole team at The Fire Brick Company, thank you for choosing us. You’re not only a customer, you’re now a part of The Fire Brick Co. family and we’re here to support your wood fired endeavours in whatever way we can. We have a number of videos and other resources to help you with using your oven, now that you have it built, and will be adding to them on a regular basis.
  • Page 49 Contact THE FIRE BRICK CO. 11/167 Princes Highway Hallam, Victoria Australia Ph: (03) 9703 1758 Email: sales@melbournefire bricks.com.au www.melbournefire bricks.com.au...

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