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SETUP
1. Remove plastic film from door window and
thermostat.
2. Remove red label & silver shipping screws
shown in Image 1 below.
Discard screws &
shipping block.
Image 1
Image 2
3. Remove cardboard shipping brace and discard.
4. Plug the cord set into the side of the incubator
and then into the proper outlet. Turn on the
power switch located next to the cord set. When
turned on the fan should begin to blow. Level
trays to remove hatching drawer (1202E, 1220E)
5. Remove contents from hatching drawer and
replace it in the bottom.
6. Locate and install the top latch which was left
uninstalled for shipping. The long screw with nut
is installed in the door tab. See image 2 above.
Humidity readings are adjusted in the incubator primarily by adjusting the surface area of water exposed to the air. Levels of humidity can be
HUMIDITY
increased by adding one or two wick pads to the pan. If higher levels are required then a room humidifier may be needed in the incubator room.
For setting of most eggs the moisture pan with water in it will be sufficient. A day or two before the expected hatch date a wick pad maybe
placed in the pan to increase the humidity to a suitable hatching level. GQF recommends that this simple rule of thumb be used on the first
setting of eggs regardless of humidity readings and if found to be effective continued on all other settings of eggs. If water pools in the bottom of the incubator then humidity is too
high. Reduce humidity and mop up excess water.
To reduce humidity levels remove any wick pads. Cover over all or a portion of the moisture pan with foil or plastic wrap. If more reduction is needed then pull plugs in vent holes
locate in the back and upper right side of the cabinet. To reduce humidity beyond removal of water from the incubator then a room dehumidifier must be used to reduce humidity in
the incubator room. Uses of a room dehumidifier is extreme so review procedures for the type of egg being hatched.
All eggs will lose moisture during incubation. Water is added to the incubator in most cases to prevent excessive drying of the eggs. Humidity levels can be easily checked by the
humidity reading on the hygrometer. Keep in mind, however, that humidity requirements differ among egg types and the age of the flock. Pore sizes and numbers vary in the
eggs produced between young and old hens. This means that the humidity reading is the level being applied but may not necessarily be what the eggs require. The following is a
description of two methods used to determine humidity needs. Most operators do not do either, as they are time consuming, complex and often not required. GQF recommends that
the instructions in the first paragraph under HUMIDITY be used for simplicity.
Experienced operators are able to candle eggs to see if the air sack is of the proper size and then make adjustments during the hatch. Air sacks too large require more humidity. Sacks
too small need less humidity.
A more accurate method is to weigh the egg with a very accurate scale. Most eggs loose between 12% and 14% of their weight during incubation. Using the starting weight times the weight
loss percent divided by the number of days will yield the weight loss per day that is expected. Weigh egg every 5 days or so to see if the weight loss is at the proper rate. If too much weight is
lost then humidity level should be increased. If egg(s) is too heavy then humidity should be decreased.
About three days before the expected hatch date move the eggs from the turning racks and lay them in the hatching tray(s). To do this remove the
HATCHING
eggs from their holding cradles or cartons and lay them on the bottom of the hatching tray in their natural, unsupported position*. It is recommended
to use a separate hatcher such as the Model 1250E as temperatures are usually ½ to 1 degree cooler for hatching with increased humidity and can be
shut down periodically for cleaning. The 1202E incubator has a hatching tray in the bottom, which will allow for hatching eggs while newer eggs are
being turned in the setting trays. Do not adjust the temperature in the 1202E for hatching. If possible, avoid opening the door during the hatch as this removes warm, moist air resulting
in a slowed or damaged hatch.
The black plastic hatching tray at the bottom of 1202E and 1250E models is deep enough to accomodate small chicks, such as quail, without a cover. Humidity levels are increased in the
hatcher by adding a wick pad to the water pan. If necessary add a second wick pad to raise moisture levels 6 % to 10 % above normal. When setting and hatching at the same time in the
1202E, as soon as the hatch is completed return the incubator to its normal humidity level usually by removing the wick pads.
As soon as the hatch is complete remove the chicks to the brooder. Most eggs hatch within a few hours of each other but a normal hatch can take up to 24 hours to complete. If
temperatures are incorrect or eggs were set late or pre-incubated the hatch may have some chicks that emerge days before or after hatching of most eggs. Chicks that hatch days late are
often weak and do not survive, therefore, it is best to pull the hatched and unhatched eggs from the incubator after a few days for disposal.
*The black corrigated plastic bottom hatching tray should be lined with paper towels or DACB paper. This makes for quick clean up and offers sure-footing for new chicks.
7. Unplug the incubator and gently lay it on
its side to install the foot assembly. Do not lay
incubator on the thermostat side.
8. Insert the 3018 thermometer at the designated
hole next to the 3248 thermostat.
9. To use the 3018 as a hygrometer, slide one
end of a wick over the thermometer probe and
place the other into the water filled humidity pan.
Allow the incubator to stabilize before reading
humidity. Remove wick after reading to avoid
mineral build-up.
10. The red LED on the rear panel will illuminate
when power is supplied to the heater. It is normal
for this light to flash on and off. Hold the turner
switch to M to test manual turner operation. Flip
the switch to A for automatic turning.
11. With power applied and indicator light on, turn
temperature adjustment know to increase. Pilot
light should be steadiily lit. Watch temperature
and keep increasing or decreasing until the
temperature reaches 99.5 to 100 degrees F.
Continue to watch until the temperature setting
is in the correct range. The pilot light will flash
on and off while maintaining the set temperature.
TROUBLESHOOT: If power does not come on
check connection of the power cord. Next,
check to see if power is available at the wall
plug. Then check the fuse in the incubator
located by the OFF/ON switch. Pry open the
cover with a very small flat blade screw driver.
If needed replace the fuse with a 250-V 5amp
fast blow fuse (F5AL250V). A 3 or 4 amp may
be used if a 5 amp is not available. If used in
countries other than the USA a cord set with
the same IEC plug as required by the incubator
(similar to those used in computers and other
appliances) that fits electric outlets used in
that country. Check to be sure that the cabinet
incubator is the proper voltage for the power
supply ( 110-VAC or 220-VAC).
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