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Summary of Contents for Hudson SIX-40 1915
- Page 1 INSTRUCTION BOOK HUDSON SIX-40 1915 Fourth Editon H U D S O N M O T O R C A R C O . D E T R O I T M I C H A G A N...
- Page 3 Instruction Book Hudson Six “40” 1915 Fourth Editon...
- Page 4 INDEX USEFUL INFORMATION How to Start Motor Notes on Oiling Diagnosis of Common Trouble How to Learn to. Drive a Hudson Six-40 The Hudson Clutch 8-12 Front Axle 12-14 The Hudson Rear Axle 14-17 Brake Adjustment 17-18 The Action of the Zenith Carburetor...
- Page 5 Rear Axle Illustration No. 2 Brake Adjustment Carburetor 26-27 Lubricating Chart Manner of Turning into Another Road ILLUSTRATIONS HUDSON SIX-40 ELECTRIC SYSTEM AND STOR- AGE BATTERY Simplified Circuit Diagram View Rear End of Generator View Front End of Generator Wiring Diagram Six-40-1915 Distributor .
- Page 7 How To Start Motor Follow Instructions by Paragraphs See Fig. 1. 1. Pull out "M" button on Ignition Switch. 2. Place spark lever about halfway up quadrant, and throttle lever all the way down. To stop the motor, both "M" and "B" buttons must be pushed in. There are three positions of the carburetor air control operated by the small pull rod which terminates in a handle on the cowl apron.
- Page 10 oil always results in carbonized motors, burned-out bearings, overheating and loss of power, or other serious troubles. Like every other commodity, the payment of a fair price secures the best article. In winter, a thinner grade of oil may be used than in summer. A tendency to overheat, which is indicated by a rapid evaporation of the water from the radiator, may often be eliminated by using a medium grade, rather than a thin grade, of motor oil of good quality.
- Page 11 8. Loose or broken fan belt. 9. License tag is obstructing front of radiator. How To Learn To Drive The Hudson Six-40 Start the Motor as Instructed on page 3. Before shifting gear lever, advance the spark lever to the top of the quadrant, and the throttle lever about 1/2 inch from bottom of the quadrant.
- Page 12 WHEN IN DOUBT, DON'T DO ANYTHING. THINK THE MATTER OVER AND ANALYZE THE PROBLEM. The Hudson Clutch For the past four seasons' models, the Hudson Company has retained the same design of clutch, and it gives so little trouble that few have seen the inside of one.
- Page 13 In consequence the Hudson clutch is very smooth in action, but once engaged, it seldom slips. The fact that the cork inserts become saturated with oil makes it difficult, compared with other types, to abuse the clutch.
- Page 15 through the holes in the driving discs, placing the separating springs one at a time. This accomplished, and with the spring, the ball thrust bearing and the shims in place in the crankshaft, the clutch cover can be slipped into place. 4.
- Page 16 On the 1915 model this stop is on the left, on the cap that carries the gear-shift rods. The adjustment is simple to determine. Whenever you find that the transmission gears stop and the gears can be engaged without the pedal being thrown all the way out, the adjustment needs attention and should be screwed out to meet the sleeve lever until it stops its travel at the correct moment.
- Page 17 The handiest way to check this alignment is with the distance stick shown in the illustration To adjust the distance rod it is necessary to remove one of the bolts when the clamp screw can be loosened and the clevis adjusted by turning on the threads of the distance rod. Any backlash is the axle knuckles and...
- Page 18 The Hudson Rear Axle The 1915 model axle is a semi-floating type, but with the difference that the live axle drive shafts are butted in the centre and the load on the wheel bearings is compensated.
- Page 19 No. 2 not nearly as strong as the solid shaft at "A." Furthermore, to facilitate the mounting of the wheel bearings the axle housing is invariably reduced at this point. The sectional area of the housing is usually half the area of the solid shaft. There is less tendency to bend the shaft (which is inexpensive to replace compared with the housing), and the safety factor is twice as great as that of the housing (which is very expensive to replace).
- Page 20 is many pounds lighter yet much stronger in every way than the 1914 type. From the standpoint of accessibility the 1915 axle has many advantages. To remove the wheel is only a matter of a few minutes. One nut must first be removed and the wheel puller does the rest. Compare this with the task of removing eight nuts, then a wheel bearing lock-nut then a washer and finally another nut.
- Page 21 The grease cup on the pinion housing is intended to lubricate the pinion bearings. This should be filled frequently with Whitmore Anti-Friction No. 5 Grease. It should always be examined when a pinion adjustment is made and an additional quantity of grease added at the adjustment opening. If the pinion is flush with the ring gear and there is too much lash in same or too little, the ring gear may be adjusted either in or out to remedy this condition.
- Page 22 is determined, disconnect the brake rod "B" from cam lever which is not shown on sketch, then with wheel in place, the hand lever released, and wheel jacked up from floor, move the cam lever forward until the brake starts to take hold. Release the lever slightly so that there is no drag and connect rod "B" making the necessary adjustment to clevis on this rod so that the above result will be obtained.
- Page 23 Too much or too little air will cause the motor to "roll," or run in spasmodic jerks when idling. This frequently makes it necessary to open the throttle wider than usual in order to keep the motor from stalling. The explanation of this phenomenon is well worth giving here. When the mixture is too rich in gasoline, the latter piles up on the top of the flat throttle valve, and when sufficient gasoline has collected there it is agitated by the air passing the valve and vaporized, giving an excellent mixture for a moment only, and causing the motor to speed up.
- Page 24 advanced spark is necessary to get the power sufficient to keep the motor running and overcome the load of the flywheel, etc. In adjusting the idling device, therefore, the spark should be retarded and the throttle set at the closed point.
- Page 25 down the amount of gas used, therefore, either one may be changed for a smaller size. The determination of the best one with which to commence operations can only be made after" they have both been removed and their sizes noted. The compensator is usually "5" larger than the main jet for ordinary climate and normal running, say up to 40 miles an hour.
- Page 26 The less the necessity for using the strangler, the greater the economy, hence the reason for keeping the motor warm whenever possible and using high grade fuel. In order to be convinced, every Hudson owner should try a tank full of 70 test gasoline. He will soon be convinced that it is well worth the extra cost.
- Page 27 Steering Gear The steering gear used on the Hudson Six-40 1915 is of the worm gear type, the steering column being supported in the case, above and below, by two ball thrust bearings. The worm wheel support is equipped with an eccentric bushing, with which adjustment can be made when too much play occurs between worm wheel' and worm gear.
- Page 28 before the heavier lubricant is thinned out. In the case of the rear axle gears, etc., which revolve at a much lower speed, these precautions are not so necessary, but if the temperatures in which the cars have been stored run considerably below 10° F., the axle cover should be removed and the lubricant either heated or mixed with a quantity of lighter grade lubricant.
- Page 31 Anti-Freezing Mixture For 5 below zero: Alcohol Glycerine Water For 10 below zero: Alcohol Glycerine Water Alcohol Water Washing of the Car When received a car is new, clean and neat—a thing of beauty.Why not keep it in this condition? The car should be regularly and systematically cleaned and renovated.The varnish on a new car is always benefited by an occasional washing with clear, pure water.The car, even when not in active use, should be cleaned at stated intervals.
- Page 32 body of dirt and mud that under a fresh flow of water it will readily run away without injury to the finish. In all cases the mud and dirt should be floated off by a natural flow of water rather than wiped off. This latter practice usually results in the finish being scratched and disfigured by the grit and dirt.
- Page 33 affinity to dirt. The hood and fenders are subjected to exposure, to dust and dirt, oil, grease and heat from the motor. These conditions in time cause to form a sort of filmy covering, which deadens the original gloss. The longer this condition is allowed to exist, the harder it will be to restore the luster. This is brought about by the simple expedient of taking off the greasy substance which is adhering to the surface of the enamel.
- Page 34 TURNING INTO ANOTHER ROAD—In turning a vehicle into another road' to the right, the driver should keep his car as near the right-hand curb as practicable,, as shown on Fig. 6. In turning into another road to the left he should turn around the center of the two as in Fig. 7. No vehicle should be slowed up or stopped without the driver thereof giving those behind him warning of his intentions to so do, by proper signals.
- Page 35 Most skids can be corrected by the manipulation of the steering and brakes. An expert driver run keep his car straight under almost any conditions, but it is impossible to explain just how he does it. Usually the rear end skids first, and in the right hand direction, this being caused by the crown of the road. Under such conditions, the skidding action will be aggravated if the brakes are applied, and the car may be ditched or continue to skid until it hits the curb.
- Page 36 time before you drop down to five miles. Note the difference between this last mark and the first. This distance is proportional to the work done by the motor as a brake. By the same token, the wear on your brakes will be lessened in this proportion if you let the motor help.
- Page 37 Do not depend upon some one else to do that which is so simply done, and which you can get such satisfaction in doing. There is nothing complicated nor complex about the HUDSON SIX 40. There are no inaccessible parts that should interfere with ready adjustments. Familiarize yourself with every detail of the car as explained in this book and you will have greater confidence in venturing over any road at any distance from a repair station.
- Page 38 The 1915 Six "40" ELECTRIC SYSTEM F i f t y p e r c e n t o f a l l e l e c t r i c a l troubles, whether on your automobile or in your home, are due to faulty contacts and loose connections in the wiring.
- Page 39 The Hudson Electric System The 1915 system has been improved and simplified. It is the single wire, single unit system—the frame of the car being used to carry the return current. The generator, storage battery, motor, lamps, horn and ignition apparatus each have a connection "grounded"...
- Page 41 curtains are all down and much exterr noise is excluded, the danger is increased. To safeguard against this, get into the habit of either pressing down on the foot accelerator or advancing the hand throttle so as to determine if the motor is running. Do this in every case before the starting pedal is pressed down, if you are not certain that the motor is in operation.
- Page 42 The Motor Clutch The motor clutch and gears, which operate between the flywheel and the armature pinion, are for the purpose of getting a suitable gear reduction between the armature and the flywheel, and permit the gear in mesh with the flywheel to overrun the armature when the engine starts, and prevent the armature from being driven at an excessively high speed during the short time the gears are in mesh after the engine is running on its own power.
- Page 43 both the "M" and "B" buttons control the circuit between the generator and the storage battery. When the engine is not running, or when it is running below 300 R.P.M. and the circuit between the generator and the storage battery is closed by either the "M" or "B" button on the combination switch, the direction or flow' of the current is from the battery to the generator and if the speed is very low, indeed, as when throttled down to three M.P.H.
- Page 44 The Circuit Breaker The Circuit Breaker is mounted on the Combination Switch as shown at Fig. 1. This unit is a protective device, which takes the place of fuses., lt prevents the discharging of the battery or damage to the wiring and lamps, horn or ignition, in case any of the wires leading to these parts become grounded.
- Page 45 in either direction to secure the proper timing; turning in a clockwise direction to advance and counter- clockwise to retard. See that the contact points, breaker arm and spring are in perfect condition. The contact spring "A" should have a good tension outward at the breaker arm "B." If this tension is not correct bend the arm "B" away from the contact spring "A."...
- Page 46 In taking apart the contact breaker assembly, care should be taken to keep intact the copper wire, which connects to spring anchor post. Loosening or breakage of the wire will cause current to travel through the spring, taking the temper out of it., and making breaker arm bind on the pivot. The Breaker Arm is not grounded as in the 1914 system.
- Page 47 The Ignition Coil The Ignition Coil is mounted on side of the motor generator and serves to transform the low voltage current in the primary circuit to a current of high voltage in the secondary circuit. The coil consists of a primary winding of coarse wire, wound around an iron core in comparatively few turns, and a secondary winding of many turns of fine wire;...
- Page 48 Removing half' of the resistance will make a considerable increase in the light given, almost too much for town driving. We recommend experimenting by short circuiting the outer coil first, then making further adjustments to suit personal taste. The following are the specifications and current consumption of the Hudson Six-40 1915 Lamps: Name Specification...
- Page 49 Information on Storage Batteries Storage Battery The 3-X-15-1 storage battery used with the Electric Cranking, Lighting and Ignition System is designed especially for it and is made by The Electric Storage Battery Co., of Philadelphia, Pa., whose products for the automobile trade are known as "Exide"...
- Page 51 It should register from l.275 to l.300 if the battery is fully charged. Hydrometer Syringe We recommend that every Hudson owner carry one of these useful instruments at all times— especially if it is impossible for him to obtain regular inspection of the battery through his dealer.
- Page 52 Gravity below l.150 indicates battery completely discharged. An exhausted battery should be given a full charge at once.) Hydrometer syringes are not a part of the electric system, but can be purchased from the Hudson Motor Car Co., or from The Electric Storage Battery Co., Philadelphia, Pa.
- Page 53 If a battery is in need of cleaning or repairs, it is best to communicate with the Hudson Motor Car Co. or The Electric Storage Battery Co., who will advise you where to ship the battery.
- Page 54 When the car is to be out of service for two months or longer the battery should be taken out and treated as follows: Remove the filling plugs and add pure water until the level reaches the bottom of the filling tube.
- Page 55 Adding Water The electrolyte must always cover the plates. Replace evaporation by adding pure, fresh water. NEVER ADD ACID. If below the bottom of the filling tubes (see Fig. 8, "keep liquid up to this line"), add pure, fresh wa- ter, bringing the liquid up to the proper height—level with the bottom of the filling tube.
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