Moisture from the products of combustion condenses on
the tank surface and the outside jacket of the water heater
and forms drops of water which may fall onto the burner or
other hot surfaces. This will produce a "sizzling" or "frying"
noise. NOTE: This condensation is normal and should not be
confused with a leaking tank. Condensation may increase or
decrease at different times of the year.
High efficient energy saver water heaters will produce
larger amounts of condensation on initial start-up or when
a large amount of hot water is being used. NOTE: Do not
confuse this with a "tank leak". Once the water reaches a
temperature of 120°F and the tank warms up (usually 1-2
hours), the condensation will stop.
IMPORTANT: It is always recommended that a suitable drain
pan be installed under the water heater to protect the area
from water damage resulting from normal condensation
production, a leaking tank or piping connections. Refer to
"Location Requirements" on page 4. Under no circumstances
is the manufacturer to be held responsible for any water
damage in connection with this water heater.
Water Heater Sounds
During the normal operation of the water heater, sounds or
noises may be heard. These noises are common and may
result from the following:
1. Normal expansion and contraction of metal parts during
periods of heat-up and cool-down.
2. Condensation causes sizzling and popping within the
burner area and should be considered normal.
3. Sediment buildup in the tank bottom will create varying
amounts of noise and may cause premature tank failure.
Drain and flush the tank as directed under "Draining and
The water heater may give off a small amount of smoke
and odor during the initial start-up of the unit. This is due to
the burning off of oil from metal parts of a new unit and will
disappear after a few minutes of operation.
This water heater is designed to automatically shut-off in the
event of the following:
1. The pilot flame is extinguished for any reason.
2. The water temperature exceeds 180°F (83°C).
3. Excessive combustion chamber temperatures.
4. The ignition of flammable vapors.
A thermopile is used to determine if a pilot flame is present,
and will shut off the gas supply to the main burner and the
pilot if the flame is absent. This unit is also equipped with a
thermal switch, designed to shut off the gas supply in the
event the water heater has been exposed to flammable
vapors (eg, spilled gasoline), poor combustion caused by a
blocked vent or insufficient combustion air. If the
thermal switch opens:
1. Check the flame-trap for signs of high temperature
(blue or black discoloration) See Figure 28A.
2. If there are signs of high temperature, correct any
issues before you reset the thermal switch. Contact the
Product Service and Support Department for service
information at: 1-877-817-6750.
3. Inspect your installation for any problems with venting
or combustion air.
4. Reset the thermal switch by depressing the small
button in the center of the thermal switch.
A high temperature limit switch or ECO (Energy Cut Off) in
the tank is used to shut off the unit if the water temperature
exceeds 180°F (83°C). The ECO is a single use switch and
requires complete replacement of the entire gas control
valve/thermostat. If the ECO should function, the water
heater cannot be used until the gas control valve/thermostat
is replaced by a qualified person. Contact your local dealer
for service information.
Anode Rod/Water Odor
Each water heater contains at least one anode rod, which
will slowly deplete while protecting the glass-lined tank
from corrosion and prolonging the life of the water heater.
Once the anode is depleted, the tank will start to corrode,
eventually developing a leak. Certain water conditions will
cause a reaction between this rod and the water. The most
common complaint associated with the anode rod is a "rotten
egg smell" produced from the presence of hydrogen sulfide
gas dissolved in the water. IMPORTANT: Do not remove
this rod permanently as it will void any warranties. The parts
list includes a special anode that can be ordered if water
odor or discoloration occurs. NOTE: This rod may reduce
but not eliminate water odor problems. The water supply
system may require special filtration equipment from a water
conditioning company to successfully eliminate all water odor
Artificially softened water is exceedingly corrosive because
the process substitutes sodium ions for magnesium and
calcium ions. The use of a water softener may decrease the
life of the water heater tank.
The anode rod should be removed from the water heater
tank every 3 years for inspection. The following are typical
(but not all) signs of a depleted anode rod:
The majority of the rods diameter is less than 3/8".
Signiﬁ cant sections of the support wire (approx. 1/3 or
more of the anode rod's length) are visible.
If the anode rod show signs of either or both it should be
replaced. NOTE: Whether re-installing or replacing the
anode rod, check for any leaks and
immediately correct if found.
In replacing the anode:
1. Turn off gas supply to the water
2. Shut off the water supply and
open a nearby hot water faucet to
depressurize the water tank.
3. Drain approximately 5 gallons
of water from tank (Refer to
"Draining and Flushing" for proper
procedures). Close drain valve.
4. Remove old anode rod.
5. Use Teflon
tape or approved pipe
sealant on threads and install new
6. Turn on water supply and open
nearby hot water faucet to purge
air from water system. Check for
any leaks and immediately correct
any if found.
7. Restart the water heater as directed under "Operating
Your Water Heater." See the "Repair Parts Illustration"
for anode rod location on page 27.
TEFLON is a registered trademark of E.I. Du Pont De Nemours and Company.