Stitching Zippers - Bernina B 335 Workbook

My BERNINA

STITCHING ZIPPERS

Firm woven fabric, two 4" x 8" pieces
Neckline zipper, 4 to 7" length
80/12 Universal
Polyester or cotton embroidery thread
As instructed
Reverse Pattern Sole #1
Zipper Sole #4
Optional: Zipper Foot with Guide #54
B E R N I N A S E W I N G M A C H I N E W O R K B O O K
Attaching the Zipper to Garment
1. Attach the Reverse Pattern Sole #1.
2. Place long edges of fabric with right sides together.
Using a straight stitch, sew with a 3/4" seam allowance
from one short end up to where the zipper stop will
be (about 2"). Baste the rest of the seam with a stitch
length of 5.0 mm, sewing 2 to 3 stitches in reverse at
the end to secure the seam; return to a straight stitch
length of 2.5 mm.
3.
Press the seam allowances open. Place the right side of
the zipper against the seam allowances with the zipper
teeth centered over the seam. Pin or baste each side of
zipper to the seam allowances only.
4.
Change to the Zipper Sole #4; adjust the needle position
to the right or left as needed to stitch close to the
zipper teeth. Sew through the zipper tape and the seam
allowance only, from bottom to top on each side of the
zipper.
5. Pin or baste through all layers to hold the sewn zipper to
the project.
Topstitching the Zipper
1.
Change to Zipper Foot with Guide #54 (optional foot).
2.
Left Side: Adjust the seam guide to one notch to the
right of center. Adjust the needle position to the far left.
Sewing from the right side of the fabric and starting at
the lower edge, sink the needle into the seam. Sew out
about 3/8", stop, pivot and make sure the seam guide is
lying in the ditch of the seam. Sew up the left side of the
zipper, stitching through all layers.
3. Right Side: Adjust the guide one notch to left of center;
move the needle position to the far right. Repeat the
above steps on the right side of the zipper.
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