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5.4.
Adjusting the riving knife
5.4.1. set the saw blade to maximum cutting depth, move it to the 0° position and
lock it in place with the blade bevel locking knob (12).
5.4.2. remove the saw blade guard (see 5.1.1).
5.4.3. remove the two screws securing the removable table top section (4) and
take out the section.
5.4.4. slacken the bolt holding the riving knife (3) in place.
5.4.5. raise or lower the riving knife as appropriate so that the distance between
the saw table and the top edge of the riving knife is about 20 mm more than
the height of any workpiece that is to be cut.
5.4.6. the distance between the riving knife and the saw blade should be 3 to 8 mm.
5.4.7. re-tighten the bolt and refit and fix in place the table top section and replace
the saw blade guard.
5.5.
Making longitudinal cuts
important: After each new adjustment it is advisable to carry out a trial cut in order to check the set dimensions. After switching on the
saw, wait for the blade to reach its maximum speed of rotation before commencing a cut. take extra care when starting a cut.
5.5.1. longitudinal cuts involve cutting through a workpiece along its full length.
5.5.2. one edge of the workpiece is pressed against the rip fence while its flat side rests on the table top.
5.5.3. the saw blade guard must always be in place and be adjusted to cover the workpiece.
5.5.4. When making longitudinal cuts, always stand to one side of the cutting line.
5.5.5. set the rip fence to suit the required width using the measuring scales at the front of the table.
5.5.6. switch on the saw.
5.5.7. With fingers together, place hands flat on the workpiece and push it along the fence into the saw blade.
5.5.8. Guide the workpiece at the side with your left hand only as far as the front edge of the guard hood.
5.5.9. Always push the workpiece through to the end of the riving knife.
5.5.10. leave the offcuts on the saw table until the saw blade has stopped.
5.5.11. secure a long workpiece against sagging at the end of the cutting operation (e.g. with a roller table or similar device).
5.5.12. use the push stick for guiding the workpiece if hand gets to within 125 mm (5in) of the saw blade.
5.6.
Cutting a narrow workpiece
5.6.1. longitudinal cuts in a workpiece smaller than 125mm (5in) width must always be made with the help of the push stick.
5.6.2. longitudinal cuts in an extremely narrow workpiece with a width of 30mm (1¼in) or less must always be made with the help of a
push block. A push block can be made from an offcut piece of wood.
5.7.
Adjusting the bevel cutting angle stops
5.7.1. set the saw blade to maximum cutting depth by rotating the blade depth adjustment wheel (10) anticlockwise as far as possible.
5.7.2. slacken the blade bevel locking knob (12).
5.7.3. rotate the blade bevel adjustment knob (11) anticlockwise as far as possible until the arrow points to 0°.
5.7.4. tighten the blade bevel locking knob (12). Place a square between the saw table and the saw blade.
5.7.5. If the angle is not exactly 90°, loosen the adjusting bolt slightly, reposition and then re-tighten it. the adjusting bolt is located under the
front of the table top, just above the blade bevel locking knob on the left hand side.
5.7.6. It may be necessary to slacken the blade bevel locking knob (12) again and adjust the blade bevel adjustment knob (11) again, in
order to move the saw blade a little further to the left and re-check the angle is correct.
5.7.7. now turn the blade bevel adjustment knob (11) to the right until the arrow points to 45°.
5.7.8. tighten the blade bevel locking knob again.
5.7.9. Place a 45° angle between the saw table and the saw blade.
5.7.10. If the angle is not exactly 45° you can adjust it with the adjusting bolt in a similar way to the procedure described above. the adjusting
bolt is located under the front of the table top, just above the blade bevel locking knob on the right hand side.
Important: Be sure to secure the selected angle setting by tightening the blade bevel locking knob (12) before you start to use the saw.
5.8.
Making bevel cuts
5.8.1. Always use the fence when cutting bevels.
5.8.2. set the saw blade to the required angle by slackening the blade bevel locking knob (12) and then turn the blade bevel adjustment
wheel (11) until the indicator points to the required angle on the bevel scale (13). securely tighten the blade bevel locking knob (12).
5.8.3. set the fence to suit the width of the workpiece.
5.8.4. carry out the cut in accordance with the workpiece width.
5.8.5. use the push stick for guiding the workpiece if hand gets to within 125 mm (5in) of the saw blade.
5.9.
Using the mitre gauge and making cross cuts
5.9.1. slide the mitre gauge (7) into one of the two slots on the saw table top (1).
5.9.2. slacken the knurled knob on the mitre gauge, adjust mitre gauge until the arrow points to the required angle, tighten the knurled knob.
5.9.3. Press the workpiece firmly against the mitre gauge and switch on the saw.
5.9.4. Push the mitre gauge and the workpiece together towards the saw blade in order to make the cut.
important: Always hold the guided part of the workpiece. never hold the part of the workpiece that will become the off-cut.
5.9.5. Always push the mitre gauge far enough forward for the workpiece to be cut through completely.
5.9.6. switch off the saw and wait for the saw blade to stop before removing any off-cuts.
note: when making compound cuts (combination of both bevel and cross cut) - use the lower slot for the mitre gauge which prevents
hands and the mitre gauge coming into contact with the saw blade.
important: do not push the rip fence too far towards the saw blade. the minimum distance between the rip fence and the saw blade
should be 20 mm.
Original Language Version
fig.9
ts10seW
Issue: 2 - 12/01/10
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