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Model Aero Polaris
Designed by Steve Shumate
Adapted from the North Star design by Laddie Mikulasko
Polaris EX Introduction
We're excited to introduce the Polaris EX seaplane parkflyer! Based on the Polaris design by
Steve Shumate and inspired by Laddie Mikulasko's North Star seaplane, we've incorporated
some design changes worthy of a new model!
The most notable feature of the Polaris EX is it's power system flexibility. It can be built as a
prop plane or EDF utilizing the new 10 blade RC Lander 68 mm EDF. And the power systems
can be swapped out in less than 10 minutes! She flies equally well on both power systems but
we prefer the incredible sound of the new lightweight EDF. With an AUW of 28 oz. the EDF
performance is exceptional!
The kit features simple sheet foam construction and the plane boasts excellent handling
qualities, both in the air and on the water. In flight this model is smooth and stable, yet also
very aerobatic. On the water it tracks straight as an arrow and takes off and lands effortlessly.
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Summary of Contents for Model Aero Polaris EX
- Page 1 The most notable feature of the Polaris EX is it’s power system flexibility. It can be built as a prop plane or EDF utilizing the new 10 blade RC Lander 68 mm EDF. And the power systems can be swapped out in less than 10 minutes! She flies equally well on both power systems but we prefer the incredible sound of the new lightweight EDF.
- Page 2 Specifications: Wing area: 343 sq in Span: 29.0" Length: 38.4" Weight RTF: 18 to 22 oz prop, 28 oz EDF Wing loading: 8.4 oz/sq ft Motor: Spin Max 2212-06 or 2212-10, RC Lander 68 mm EDF Battery: 1300 to 2700 mAh 11.1V Prop: APC 6x4E for 2212-6 motor, 7x5E for 2212-10 motor Max Current: 16 amps (2212-10) to 22 amps (2212-6), 55 amps EDF Watts: 240 watts prop, 550 Watts EDF...
- Page 3 In this photo, we’ve assembled the 3 main wing panels and glued all the carbon spars into their respective slots. At top right is the horizontal stab. The tail booms are shown alongside the leading edge of the wing. If using epoxy, scuff the carbon with some fine sand paper before gluing it in.
- Page 4 Next, apply the fuselage reinforcement strips to the edges of the fuselage. Be sure to make a left and right side! Leave a 6mm gap next to the fuselage step to allow for the rear fuselage former. Foam Tac adhesive works well here. After the strips are attached, trim them off flush with the front of the fuselage.
- Page 5 2” Front Center Rear Photo above shows the three fuselage formers in place. The middle former (notched) should be positioned 2” back from the front of the wing slot. Photo at left shows the bottom of the fuselage, with a small strip of foam glued to the aft side of the rear former.
- Page 6 Photo shows the fuselage bottom glued into place. Once the glue is dry, sand the edges flush with the fuselage sides. Leave the corners fairly sharp as this will improve water tracking. Now is a good time to seal the inside of the fuselage. We run a bead of glue or latex caulk around the inside of the fuselage.
- Page 7 The vertical stab assembly consists of 5 pieces: two 3 mm outer pieces (left photo), two 6 mm middle pieces (center photo), and the rudder (shown in center & right photo). Start by gluing the two middle pieces to one of the 3 mm outer pieces. There will be a small channel left between the pieces which will accommodate the plastic elevator pushrod guide tube, which may be inserted at this time.
- Page 8 Rudder Elevator Assembled servo tray Aileron The servo tray may now be assembled and servos mounted. There are slots in the foam (not shown) for the servo tray. We prefer adjustable servo connectors on the servo arms.
- Page 9 Push rod assembly Inset photo shows the push rod assembly. The shrink tube slides over the rigid tube and wire. Then the shrink tube is heated to form a near watertight push rod assembly. A little Vaseline where the wire exits the shrink tube will increase the water resistance. Use the photos as a guide to locate the push rod exit holes.
- Page 10 This photo shows the aileron and rudder push rods exiting the fuselage. 1.5” from spar 1.5” from spar Photos above show the two power options, EDF or prop. The spacing and location of the wood mounts are the same. Pay careful attention to the measurements. 4”...
- Page 11 Photo at left shows the prop version mount. Again, epoxy is recommended for assembling the mounts. We typically paint the wood black. It’s not necessary but we think it looks nicer! 4” 16” 2” Note that the top fuselage piece is supplied as one piece. Shown above is our method of dividing and attaching the top.
- Page 12 Note that we have attached the heat sink to the ESC and mounted the assembly to the top of the fuselage. It is recommended that you seal up the ESC/heat sink with glue or silicone to prevent water from entering. The battery location will vary depending on the battery size and power system used.
- Page 13 Make sure the top of the fuselage is in place before gluing the canopy on so it matches the curve in the fuselage. Congratulations!!! That completes the construction of the Polaris EX. See below for setup tips and decal application tips.
- Page 14 Disclaimer It is up to the builder to ensure the plane is properly sealed for water operation. Model Aero assumes no liability for damages caused by water intrusion, builder, or pilot error. It is up to the builder to ensure the safe operation of this aircraft.
- Page 15 Decal Application Decal application procedure is the same for all kits. Reference Polaris photos for decal placement. Before applying the decals, clean the foam of sanding dust. An effective way to do this is with a tack rag or packing tape. Laying the tape down and peeling it off removes all the dust from the foam, allowing the decal to stick better.
- Page 16 Please Consider Our Other Designs for Your Flying Pleasure! Polaris Ultra ARF Polaris & Polaris XL...
- Page 17 Mini Polaris Aqua Cat...
- Page 18 Aqua Jet Drifter www.modelaero.com 419-966-2230...
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