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Cricket Arduino Walking Robot Documentation

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Cricket
Robot
Documentation
Revision 1.0B
Copyright 2015

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Summary of Contents for Cricket Arduino Walking Robot

  • Page 1 Cricket Robot Documentation Revision 1.0B Copyright 2015...
  • Page 2 Cricket Features ....................... 7 Top View .......................... 8 Bottom View ........................9 Front View ........................10 HOW CRICKET WORKS....................11 How Does Cricket Walk? ....................11 Obstacle Avoidance ....................... 11 Random Noises ......................11 Flashing LED Eyes ......................11 Remote Control ......................11 PLAYING WITH CRICKET ....................
  • Page 3 ASSEMBLING CRICKET’S ARDUINO CONTROLLER BOARD ........22 Tools Needed ......................... 22 Parts Layout ........................24 Installing the Parts ......................25 Checkout and Cleanup....................32 ASSEMBLING CRICKET’S CHASSIS ................33 Tools Needed ......................... 33 General Assembly Instructions ..................34 Assemble the Legs ......................34 Assemble the Center Leg Beam ..................

  • Page 4: Cricket The Robot

    Description Cricket is a six-legged walking robot. He uses three motors to make the six legs walk in a tri-gate fashion. Tri-gate means that Cricket has three legs on the ground at any one time. The three legs touching the ground form a triangle which is very stable. Cricket can walk forward, backward, and turn right and left.

  • Page 5: Cricket Kit Contents

    Install the batteries while noting the correct orientation. Place Cricket on a level service and push the slide switch at the back end of the controller board. Cricket will make a series of chirping sounds, bring all his legs into a neutral position, pause for one second and then begin walking.
  • Page 6 Cricket to stop and hold his last position. Mute which is in the center of the round volume and channel area causes Cricket to stop and center his legs. IMPORTANT: If the remote fails to work, you may need to reset the remote operation code.

  • Page 7: Documentation

    Cricket’s original behavior. Cricket may also be purchased with a Nano Arduino Module which can also be connected to a USB port so that Cricket may be reprogrammed. Both the Arduino IC and the Nano Module use the same control Sketch.

  • Page 8: Top View

    Top View 8 – Cricket Robot Documentation...

  • Page 9: Bottom View

    Bottom View 9 – Cricket Robot Documentation...

  • Page 10: Front View

    Front View 10 – Cricket Robot Documentation...

  • Page 11: How Cricket Works

    If either the feelers are bumped, Cricket will also do a sonar survey of what is in front of him and select the best direction to proceed. The best direction is the longest unobstructed distance he can measure.

  • Page 12: Playing With Cricket

    Cha-Cha, or add crazy random behaviors to the things he does. How would you make Cricket walk around a table without falling off? Improve or modify Cricket and enter him in a Science Fair or County Fair. We have already seen kids do this and win first place ribbons.

  • Page 13: About Cricket's Hardware

    About Cricket’s Hardware The following paragraphs explain each of Cricket’s components. Chassis The Cricket body is made from laser cut ABS plastic. Motors, controller, switches, and the battery pack are all mounted on this chassis. This chassis is strong and easy to assemble.

  • Page 14: Arduino Controller

    Arduino directly while a 5-volt regulator supplies power for the Arduino. Sonar Conn. Analog Sensor Connectors Power connector LED Eyes Feeler Switches Power Switch Digital & Servo Motor Connectors Programming Port Remote Sensor (pin 1 is leftmost pin) 14 – Cricket Robot Documentation...

  • Page 15: Batteries

    Rechargeable batteries are an economical alternative to alkaline cells. Battery power enters the controller board through a terminal block at the rear of the controller. The on-off switch at the rear of the controller turns Cricket on and off.

  • Page 16: Light Emitting Diodes

    Light Emitting Diodes Two green LEDs give Cricket the appearance of having eyes. These LEDs blink on and off under program control. They may be controlled individually. Feeler Wires and Switches Once Cricket starts walking around, it doesn't take long before he will run into something.

  • Page 17: Programming Connector, Cable And Software

    USB circuitry onboard. This was done to save cost. If you want to program Cricket, you will need to use a USB/Serial programming module that plugs into the header just above the Digital I/O.

  • Page 18: Uploading An Arduino Program

    Once you have the Arduino software installed, connect the SparkFun or similar USB/Serial cable to the Cricket Arduino Controller. Make sure to note pin 1 of the USB/Serial module and plug it into the Cricket controller with the dot lining up with pin one.

  • Page 19: Launch The Arduino Application

    Open the LED blink example sketch: File > Examples >01.Basics > Blink. Select your Board You'll need to select the entry in the Tools > Board menu that corresponds to your Arduino. For Cricket the board is “Arduino Uno” 19 – Cricket Robot Documentation...

  • Page 20: Select Your Serial Port

    Now, simply click the "Upload" button in the environment. Wait a few seconds - you should see the RX and TX LEDs on the SparkFun USB/Serial board flashing. If the upload is successful, the message "Done uploading." will appear in the status bar. 20 – Cricket Robot Documentation...
  • Page 21 You have programmed Cricket with a Sketch that only blinks the pin 13 LED. If you would like to restore Cricket to his full operation, select the Cricket program from your CD under “Software”. Select “Cricket_Arduino_1_0.ino. Do another download the same way you did the “blink”...

  • Page 22: Assembling Cricket's Arduino Controller Board

    Assembling Cricket’s Arduino Controller Board If you received a Cricket kit with the Arduino Controller board already assembled, please skip this section. Assembling Cricket requires that you solder the parts onto the controller board and assemble the robot chassis. I suggest that you assemble the controller first so you can center the motors after mounting them in the chassis.
  • Page 23 The instructions will mention if a part has a polarity or direction. Your kit will have 4 surface mount parts already installed on the PC board as show in the photo below. 23 – Cricket Robot Documentation...

  • Page 24: Parts Layout

    Use this diagram to help you to locate where the parts are installed. Follow each of the steps to complete your controller. All controller parts are listed in the parts table. PC Board Parts Layout Parts List 24 – Cricket Robot Documentation...

  • Page 25: Installing The Parts

    -orange-brown-gold R3,R7 1K ohm resistor 1/8W brown-black-red-gold Install R1, R2, R4, R5, &R6. Solder the 2 leads and clip the excess lead. Install R3 & R7. Solder the 2 leads and clip the excess lead. 25 – Cricket Robot Documentation...
  • Page 26 Install the push button switch SW3 and solder the four leads. This part can fit in either of two directions. Install connector X1 crystal making sure that it is flush to the PC board. Solder the 2 leads on the back side of the board. 26 – Cricket Robot Documentation...
  • Page 27 Install IR1 which is IR Remote Control Sensor by first bending the leads down at 90 degrees at about ¼” from the body so that the part fits in its location on the board. The bubble on IR1 faces up. Solder the 3 leads and clip the excess lead. 27 – Cricket Robot Documentation...
  • Page 28 Install transistor Q1 making sure the rounded side matches the silkscreen on the PC board. You will have to slightly spread the leads and make sure the transistor is close to the board as shown below. Solder and then clip the excess lead length. 28 – Cricket Robot Documentation...
  • Page 29 Install the SONAR connector. Make sure the side with 2 slots matches the silkscreen and faces SW3 reset switch. Solder one pin, make sure the connector is straight and flush and then solder the other 3 pins. 29 – Cricket Robot Documentation...
  • Page 30 The above shows 3 pin connectors in the locations pointed to in the arrow. Leave these connectors off. We will just solder a jumper at those locations rather than using a connector. Qty. Location Description L1, L2 Right Angle Green LED SW1, SW2 Feeler Switches 30 – Cricket Robot Documentation...
  • Page 31 Install the slide switch. The direction does not matter. The switch will work installed in either direction. Make sure it is straight by soldering one pin first and the remaining seven pins after checking it. The two large pins are mechanical mount points which should be soldered. 31 – Cricket Robot Documentation...

  • Page 32: Checkout And Cleanup

    V+ and the black lead to GND. When you turn it on, L4 should start blinking. If you have a multi-meter, check the voltage at any of the center posts of the Analog connectors. You may optionally clean the flux residue caused by soldering using a toothbrush and rubbing alcohol. 32 – Cricket Robot Documentation...

  • Page 33: Assembling Cricket's Chassis

    Assembling Cricket’s Chassis Cricket’s Chassis is laser cut from ABS plastic. The parts fit together snuggly but still require gluing to make the chassis strong and stiff. The assembly process is easy and goes quickly. Just follow the rest of this section to build your Cricket Chassis.

  • Page 34: General Assembly Instructions

    If you try to wipe it, it will smear. Cricket’s chassis is laser cut so the corners and notches are sharp. If you would like to have an extra nice job, a little bit of filing of the corners and edges will make the parts fit better however filing is optional except for few steps which are noted.
  • Page 35 You may optionally Clamp or tape each leg to get a tight joint. 4 outer legs glued and having a screw to make sure the pivots are aligned 35 – Cricket Robot Documentation...
  • Page 36 S to each of the 6 legs including the center legs part D. Cut the bellow material (T) into 6 parts with 7 segments each using an Xacto knife or single edge razor blade. 36 – Cricket Robot Documentation...
  • Page 37 All 6 legs complete with rubber foot pads and bellows. Note the location of the bellows. After the legs are dry, you may remove the screws used to align the pivots. 37 – Cricket Robot Documentation...

  • Page 38: Assemble The Center Leg Beam

    Clamp or tape the assembly together. Allow this assembly to dry for a while before attaching it to the chassis body (A). Remove the alignment nails before the assembly dries but after you have clamped/taped it. 38 – Cricket Robot Documentation...
  • Page 39 The nails are discarded later after the glue dries. You may use spring clamps to clamp the center beam. OR you may use masking tape to hold the beam while the glue dries. 39 – Cricket Robot Documentation...
  • Page 40 Xacto knife and that the beam fits snuggly in the notch on the chassis body. Once you have checked the dry fit, apply glue to the inner surface. 40 – Cricket Robot Documentation...
  • Page 41 Whichever side you install it on becomes the bottom of the Cricket Robot. Use masking tape or spring clamps to hold the beam in place while the glue dries. This is now the bottom of the robot. 41 – Cricket Robot Documentation...

  • Page 42: Attaching The Servo Motor Mounts

    Cut it off with a Xacto knife after it dries. I suggest that you don’t try to wipe it off because it makes a mess of the body. File or sand off the small ridge on each tab as shown. Apply glue sparingly on each side of the tab. 42 – Cricket Robot Documentation...
  • Page 43 Right Motor Mount Make sure each of the three mounts (H) are perpendicular to the chassis body. You may tape or clamp them if you like but they should be OK just drying in place. 43 – Cricket Robot Documentation...

  • Page 44: Install The Pc Board Mounts

    4 locations noted. Apply a small amount of glue to each side of the tab and press the mount into place. Make sure it is fully seated and that the small hooks point inward 44 – Cricket Robot Documentation...
  • Page 45 Installing the PCB mounts (N) 4 PCB mounts (N) installed. Note that they are on the opposite side of the body from the motor mounts. 45 – Cricket Robot Documentation...

  • Page 46: Assemble The Leg Control Arms

    See the assembled photo if this is not clear. Leg Control Arms (J) Retainers (K) Be sure to note the orientation of the retainers in following photos. If the retainers will not slide on, file or sand the outside of the notch. 46 – Cricket Robot Documentation...
  • Page 47 Hole Right Control Arm This shows both the Right Control Key holes facing outward Arm and the Left Control Arm. The holes at the end of the slot face outward. Left Control Arm 47 – Cricket Robot Documentation...

  • Page 48: Assemble The Sonar Bracket

    Check the fit and if it is tight, remove the ridge using a file or sandpaper. Apply a small amount of glue to each side of the tab. Press the upright tab into the base slot. Make sure it is fully seated. 48 – Cricket Robot Documentation...
  • Page 49 Push the flat head screw through the countersunk side of adapter (R). Place the star washer on the screw. Add a small amount of glue to the screw and then tighten the spacer onto the screw using a #1 Phillips screw driver. 49 – Cricket Robot Documentation...
  • Page 50 Completed Sonar Servo Linkage Attach the post to the Sonar Servo horn using two #0 x 3/16" flathead sheet metal screws Tighten the screws with a #1 Phillips screw driver. 50 – Cricket Robot Documentation...

  • Page 51: Abs Parts Of Chassis Are Now Complete

    Sonar Bracket. The photo also shows a center control arm (right side) which did not require any gluing. Let everything dry before assembling the legs and other parts to the chassis body. 51 – Cricket Robot Documentation...

  • Page 52: Installing The Servos Into The Chassis

    Install the left servo with the shaft closer to the front of the robot and the center beam Attach the servo with four #4 x 3/8” self-tapping screws using a #2 Phillips screw driver. 52 – Cricket Robot Documentation...
  • Page 53 Insert the center servo with the shaft to the left side of the robot as shown. Use only 2 screws because this servo will be removed later. Install with only 2 screws because this servo will be removed later. 53 – Cricket Robot Documentation...
  • Page 54 Mount the sonar servo with the 2 screws from the supplied HS-55 accessories inside the box using a #1 Phillips screw driver. The completed sonar servo installation should look like this. 54 – Cricket Robot Documentation...
  • Page 55 Route all servo wires through the left access hole in the body as shown Your servo wires should be loosely routed as shown. Later we will neaten the wires up with wire ties 55 – Cricket Robot Documentation...

  • Page 56: Installing Cricket's Legs

    Tighten all the way until the screw will not turn anymore and then loosen one half turn. Make sure the legs move freely. If they do not, loosen the screws a little more until they move freely. 56 – Cricket Robot Documentation...
  • Page 57 Tighten all the way until the screw will not turn anymore and then loosen one half turn. Make sure the legs move freely. If they do not, loosen the screws a little more until they move freely 57 – Cricket Robot Documentation...

  • Page 58: Installing The Leg Control Arms

    Tighten the screw all the way and then pack it off about one full turn. Repeat on the front leg and then make sure the legs on the right side move freely. Repeat these steps on the left side. 58 – Cricket Robot Documentation...
  • Page 59 Your leg control arm on the left side should look like this. Note the round keyhole pointing down. Your leg control arm on the right side should look like this. Note the round keyhole pointing down. 59 – Cricket Robot Documentation...
  • Page 60 (D) with the round Keyhole facing down as shown. Add two 4-40 x ½” screws through the center leg control arm as shown, Be sure the arm is in front of the posts. 60 – Cricket Robot Documentation...
  • Page 61 Your robot should look like this photo with all six legs installed. Make sure all the legs move freely and loosen or tighten the leg screws as needed. 61 – Cricket Robot Documentation...

  • Page 62: Installing The Battery Holder

    Let it dry. Attach two strips of double sided tape to the back of the battery holder by removing one side of the protective paper. (Only one tape is shown. There are two) 62 – Cricket Robot Documentation...
  • Page 63 The battery holder should be placed all the way up to the center brace and centered between the servo control arms. There should be a small amount of space between the battery holder and the rear leg pivots. 63 – Cricket Robot Documentation...

  • Page 64: Installing The Speaker

    Glue the speaker by holding it firmly in place and putting three drops of glue evenly spaced around the perimeter. Use a spring clamp or tape to hold the speaker in place while the glue dries. 64 – Cricket Robot Documentation...

  • Page 65: Completing The Feelers

    Let this dry before handling further. Note: The bead protects people and animals from getting poked by the sharp wire. As an alternative you may simply bend a small loop into the end of the feeler wire. 65 – Cricket Robot Documentation...

  • Page 66: Installing The Feelers

    (P) must face the switch button. Tighten the screw with a #1 Phillips screw driver and pliers until tight and then back off about a half turn. Make sure the feelers operate the switches smoothly 66 – Cricket Robot Documentation...
  • Page 67 ½” to ¾” between them. Next take a pair of pliers with the Cricket controller lying on a table and bend the feelers about 1” from the switch actuators so they point outward as shown.
  • Page 68 You may now install the controller on your Cricket chassis. Make sure all of your wires are exiting outward from the chassis as shown. Carefully slide the controller over the sonar post. When it is resting on the four PCB mounts carefully push down on it until it snaps into place.
  • Page 69 The photo at the left shows the correct orientation for each servo connector as you plug them in. Plug the servos into your controller using the following connections: Right Servo Left Servo Center Servo Sonar Servo 69 – Cricket Robot Documentation...
  • Page 70 Insert the wire and then tighten the screw. Insert the AA batteries into the holder noting the correct polarities print on the bottom of the holder. Be careful not to pinch the battery leads. 70 – Cricket Robot Documentation...
  • Page 71 Before you power your Cricket up for the first time, verify that you have connected the motors and battery as shown below. SPK-speaker wire No Connect Black Battery Red Battery 12-Sonar Servo 9-Right Servo 10-Left Servo 11-Center Servo NOTE: The Servo yellow wire faces toward middle of the PC board.

  • Page 72: Centering The Servos

    On the center horn, place a rivet through the 2-56 x 3/8” machine screw and screw it into the third hole on the non-serrated side of the horn. Horn Assembly Parts: Horn, Rivet from Servo kit, 2-56 x 3/8” screw, and original horn screw. 72 – Cricket Robot Documentation...
  • Page 73 Before you install the horns on the right and left sides, make sure the slot they ride in is free of glue or plastic flash. Check that the screw and rivet ride smoothly in the slot. 73 – Cricket Robot Documentation...
  • Page 74 #1 Phillips screwdriver. This photo shows the left side horn in place. Repeat the process on the right side again making sure the adapter is as vertical as possible. 74 – Cricket Robot Documentation...
  • Page 75 #1 Phillips screwdriver. Reinstall the center motor by tipping it through the motor mount and inserting the rivet and screw bearing point through the center keyhole. 75 – Cricket Robot Documentation...
  • Page 76 Install all four screws to retain the center servo motor Check that your robot center motor installation looks like the photo at the left. The rivet bearing point should be poking through the center control arm as shown. 76 – Cricket Robot Documentation...
  • Page 77 If the robot fails to walk correctly, recheck the motor connections. If the right, left, or center motor connections are swapped, the robot will act very strange. 77 – Cricket Robot Documentation...

  • Page 78: Installing The Sonar Module

    The screws are at diagonal positions. Note: The photo shows the sonar post and screws which we already installed on the servo. Please ignore Sonar module and bracket with screws installed 78 – Cricket Robot Documentation...
  • Page 79 Note: The external star grabs the plastic of the bracket and the internal star grabs the top of the post. This keeps the sonar module from slipping. Ribbed side 79 – Cricket Robot Documentation...
  • Page 80 Note: Later if you find that the sonar module does not face straight forward you can loosen the bracket, move it, and retighten the screw. Plug the sonar module into the controller board 80 – Cricket Robot Documentation...

  • Page 81: Cleaning Up The Wiring

    Use one of the supplied wire ties to retain the four servo wires from moving around. Allow a little bit of slack in case you need to disconnect any of the servos Wire Tie 81 – Cricket Robot Documentation...
  • Page 82 Route the right and left servo wires through the wire retainer. Make sure there is some slack so that the wires are not in the way of the center servo horn. 82 – Cricket Robot Documentation...
  • Page 83 Use two more wire ties to retain the wire bundle in place. Note: There is a small amount of slack one the right and left servo wires to clear the motion of the center servo horn’s movement. 83 – Cricket Robot Documentation...

  • Page 84: Final Checkout

    Final Checkout Your Cricket Robot should look like this photo from the top. Make sure your wires are not hanging out. The legs should center as shown when turned on and the sonar should be facing forward. From the side, the right and left...
  • Page 85 Your feelers should extend in front of the robot so they detect objects before the leg runs into it. 85 – Cricket Robot Documentation...
  • Page 86 This bend allows for movement of the wire as the sonar module turns right and left. Recheck that your feeler switches both click when the feelers are pushed. 86 – Cricket Robot Documentation...
  • Page 87 If you find that your Cricket does not walk in a straight line, try adjusting the horn alignment with the horn adapter on the right and left servos. Moving the horn down on the serrated teeth against the adapter will slow that side down.

  • Page 88: Troubleshooting

    You may override Cricket’s autonomous movement using the remote control. Try pushing the right, left, up and down buttons to see how it affects Cricket’s motion. Pushing the up button will make him walk forward faster. Right and left will make him turn that direction and down will make him backup.
  • Page 89 If the Arduino Programming doesn’t recognize the Cricket Arduino, you've either forgot to attach the cable, the battery is low or turned off, or a more serious problem has occurred. Sound is not very loud or non-existent. Check the speaker wiring and that the speaker is tightly glued to the chassis If you can’t figure the problem out, contact us.

  • Page 90: Appendix A – Schematics

    Appendix A – Schematics 90 – Cricket Robot Documentation...
  • Page 91 91 – Cricket Robot Documentation...

  • Page 92: Appendix B - Parts List

    Appendix B - Parts List 92 – Cricket Robot Documentation...
  • Page 93 93 – Cricket Robot Documentation...

  • Page 94: Appendix C - Pc Board Layout

    Appendix C - PC Board Layout All Layers Parts Layout 94 – Cricket Robot Documentation...

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