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Assembly Manual
DRAFT
31 / 3 / 2017

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Summary of Contents for Seascape 24

  • Page 1 Assembly Manual DRAFT 31 / 3 / 2017...
  • Page 2 As mentioned this is the first draft which we plan to update on regular in- tervals so check back to Knowledge base section of www.thinkseascape.com for the latest versions. For technical details always refer to the Owners manual you received with your boat. Fair winds and lots of fun Yours Seascape 0) The Equipment...
  • Page 3 Content of the cardboard box with small equipment. 1) The Mast and Rigging Parts needed to assemble your mast with standing and running rigging. Make sure you untwist the halyards before installing them. Use the pilot line to pull the halyard trough the mast tube.
  • Page 4 Run the gennaker halyard trough both thimbles. In case you use the option of masthead gennaker you only use the top one. This is the photo of the gen- naker halyard prepared for hoisting the mast.
  • Page 5 Seascape 24 features 2:1 main halyard to reduce com- pression on the mast tube. Pin holes for spreaders are make them asymmetric so make sure you match the markings on the spreaders with those on spreader butts. Use electric or Vulcanizing tape to protect the Spreader pins.
  • Page 6 Unscrew turnbuckles from the shrouds and forestay. Make sure not to loose lock- ing nuts. Attach toggles with turnbuck- les on the chain-plates and secure the pins with electric/ vulcanizing tape. Attach forestay toggle to the jib furler and attach the furler to the bow.
  • Page 7 Attach the shrouds to the mast hounds. When new the hounds are quite close to the mast so be careful not to scratch the paint when attaching the shrouds. They will bend outwards after first use. Use electric tape to protect the safety pins.
  • Page 8 Pull the jib halyard to the point where the thinner part of the halyard reaches the block on the furler. Make sure that you always end up with the loop of the thicker end of the halyard sticking out of the furler. Tie the think and thin end of the jib halyard together so you don’t loose it when...
  • Page 9 2) Setting the mast using the A-frame A frame comes with following parts. It is powder coated so make sure you don’t damage the paint to prevent corro- sion. Slide the top part of the tube into the bottom part of the tube and secure it using the pin.
  • Page 10 Once the A-frame is ready put the mast on the boat as shown. After the first assem- bly of the mast when all the halyards are already in place you can assemble the mast on the boat to simplify ma- nipulation.
  • Page 11 Reposition the mast to the center of the boat and for- ward as shown on the photo. Prepare the forward support lines - make sure they are lead trough the triangle be- tween the mast, the spread- er and the V1 (top shroud). Leverage the A-frame against the stanchion and push/pull it forward to lift it in vertical...
  • Page 12 Move the legs of the A-frame backwards... So it is positioned roughly 20cm forward of the Shroud chain-plates. Attach front A-frame support lines on the forward mooring cleats. Repeat the process on both sides. Double-check weather the support lines are lead trough the triangle of mast/spread- er/top shroud.
  • Page 13 Attach the hoist line on the mast with a loop. Make sure to leave a long tail on the bowline so you can pull the loop downwards after the mast is hoisted. The loop can jam under the lower shroud hounds. Lead the other end of the hoist rope trough the mast foot block and the clutch to...
  • Page 14 Set the forestay rake as shown on the photo on the right. Recommended rig tensions Light Medium Heavy for the Seascape 24 as Top shrouds (V1) measured with the Loos type Lower shrouds D1) A tensiometer (supplied with Forestay the boat).
  • Page 15 3) The boom The carbon fiber boom (the bare tube weighs only 3.8kg) comes almost fully assem- bled. You only need to feed the reef lines using the pilot lines (like with the mast hal- yards). First reef should exit on the right side of the goos- neck (looking in the direction of the boat).
  • Page 16 Attach the boom to goos- neck as shown on the photo. Attach the reef hooks around the goos-neck pin. Make sure to put the plastic washer between the bot- tom of the boom part of the goos-neck and the mast goos-neck.
  • Page 17 ... and trough the Main sheet ratchet. The arrow on the block should be pointing towards the trimmer. To engage the ratchet turn the red lever on both sides of the block. To engage automatic func- tion slide the black slider inside the red lever on both sides of the block.
  • Page 18 4) The Pit Looking at the picture from right to left: - Tack-line, - Pole out - Jib furling - Gennaker - 1st reef - Cunningham - Vang - Outhaul - 2nd Reef - Main halyard In case of “Classic jib halyard option”...
  • Page 19 5) The Sails a) The Jib Start by attaching the furl- ing line to the furler and coil drum full of the line onto the furler. Guide the furling line trough the thimble, guide bridge on the deck and to the cleat.
  • Page 20 Use the composite shackle to attach both ends of the jib halyard on the jib head. Close the top of the zipper and run the thin end of the jib halyard trough the zipped pocket. Hoist the jib by pulling on the thin part of the jib halyard while closing the zipper as the sail is hoisted.
  • Page 21 Hook the jib cunningham into the loop of the thick part of the jib halyard and put it under tension by pulling the jib cunningham control line. You can stow the excess line into the pocket in the protec- tive flap. Attach the sheets on the jib clew and run them trough the lead blocks on the coach...
  • Page 22 b) The Mainsail Start by inserting the battens in the mainsail. We recom- mend you do it laying the mainsail flat on the ground (not as on the photos). When doing so make sure there a no stones or other sharp objects that could damage the sail.
  • Page 23 Run the cunnigham system trough dedicated eye on the mainsail. Attach the loop at the end on the dog bone fixed on the left side of the mast support. Attach the 2:1 halyard and you are ready to hoist. Make sure that the Halyard is not twisted before you do so.
  • Page 24 c) The Gennaker Gennaker sheets are run trough the system that pro- vides maximum grip on the ratchet block. This allows the crew to hand trim the Gen- naker even in fresh breeze.
  • Page 25 6) The keel The 24 features fully retract- able composite keel with a lead insert at its bottom. This amongst other things allows you to literally beach the boat to the sandy beach (make sure there are no rocks or big stones though).
  • Page 26 The keel pin should be inserted at all times when the boat is sailing. When insert- ing them you might have to move the keel head up and down until you find the right position. Remember the exact position of the green mark on the keel rope to simplify later insertions.
  • Page 27 6) The data If your 24 has the Elec- tric package she is also equipped with the Sentinel GPS/GSM tracker. Down- load the Sentinel marine app or login to web.sentinelmarine.net to get access to your boats data. Like that you can follow your sailing trough the digital log book.

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