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Building the RCRCM MiniVec
Congratulations on purchasing an RCRCM MiniVec. Firstly, let's make sure that you
have all the right parts with your model.
Check list:
Fuselage, RH wing, LH wing, RH stabiliser, LH stabiliser
Wing joiner, carbon tail joiner, steel tail joiner
Clevis x 7, pushrod x 4, pushrod coupler x 3
Servo covers x 4
Radio tray.
Radio gear that you will need:
Battery – we recommend the 2/3A size in 4.8V for this model.
Wing servos – Hitec HS125MG; Hyperion DS11AMB; Hyperion DS095FMD; or
similar. Hyperion DS095FMD recommended.
Fuselage servos – Hitec 65MG; Savox 255MG. Savox 255MG recommended.
Adhesives and tools you will need:
Thick CA
30 minute epoxy
Microballoons
Epoxy thickener (this could be Cabosil, Thixotropic Silica, Milled Glass, or cotton
flocks)
Soldering iron
1.6mm drill bit (if using thread L bend wing linkages only)
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Related Manuals for RCRCM MiniVec Dorado
Summary of Contents for RCRCM MiniVec Dorado
- Page 1 Building the RCRCM MiniVec Congratulations on purchasing an RCRCM MiniVec. Firstly, let’s make sure that you have all the right parts with your model. Check list: Fuselage, RH wing, LH wing, RH stabiliser, LH stabiliser Wing joiner, carbon tail joiner, steel tail joiner...
- Page 2 Fuselage Build It is necessary to fit the ballast tube to the fuselage even if you do not intend to use fuselage ballast. The ballast tube imparts a lot of strength to the wing root area of the fuselage. The tube is designed to run down the top spine of the fuselage. Let’s prepare the tube: First, cut the tube to 195mm long from the inside of the rear stopper.
- Page 3 Now let’s prepare the fuselage for the ballast tube. Glue some 80 grit sand paper to some 19mm dowel. If you don’t have any dowel to hand, then you can just wrap some 80 grit paper around the actual ballast tube and secure it at one end with a wrap of masking tape.
- Page 4 Mix up some epoxy and thickener. Put a large dollop onto the end of the ballast tube and run a thick bead of thickened epoxy down each side of the tube. Carefully insert the ballast tube into the fuselage and drop into place so that the epoxy fillets well between the sides of the tube and the fuse interior.
- Page 5 Now let’s get the tray glued in. Here are a couple of trays prepared for different receivers. Note the marks at the rear of the tray. They show the position of the wing joiner. The tray runs underneath the wing joiner with enough clearance for the snakes to also go under the joiner.
- Page 6 Now for the pushrods. Install your fuselage servos as shown. I use a 13mm arm on the elevator servo and a 9mm arm on the rudder servo. Cut your carbon pushrods to length and clean the ends with acetone. Lightly sand the ends with 210 grit ready for gluing. Install your clevises to the pushrod extenders, and screw them half way down the threads to that you have adjustment if required.
- Page 7 Wing Build NOTE: The flap build presumes the use of a flap offset function in your transmitter programming. Make sure that all your hinges move freely and that your flap wipers do not bind when re-entering the wing trailing edge. To free up the hinge, carefully run the edge of a tightly folded piece of 210grit sandpaper along the underside of the hinge line to remove any excess epoxy still in the hingeline.
- Page 8 Lightly dress the other end of the pushrod with a Dremel so that you can thread the clevis onto it. It is not necessary to use a die as once the pushrod is slightly roughed up and thinned at the end, the clevis will form its own threads when you screw it on. Set the length as shown, to 49mm from clevis pin to the threaded L bend.
- Page 9 Connect up the flap linkage, and install the servo. Ensure the linkage runs perpendicular to the hingeline. Ensure that your flap is still in the correct position as decribed above, and the servo drive to its fully up endpoint. Reference material: http://www.rcrcm.com/pdf/RCRCM-Airframes-ail-flap.pdf...
- Page 10 Then install the servo to the wing as shown. Ensure that the wiring loom is loose installed to the servos prior to gluing. Route the loom in FRONT of the servos to ensure that it does not interfere with the linkage. Put some heatshrink over the connectors to ensure that they remain secure.
- Page 11 Wiring Loom The loom route in the fuselage is under the rear of the tray, and then up where your receiver is. Prepare the ports on the fuselage as shown below by removing all the paint from the mating surface in the aperture. Then glue the mpx connectors in place using thick CA (photos show the Typhoon fuselage but the install procedure for these parts is the same).
- Page 12 Balancing and Set-up I prefer to balance models using lead shot and epoxy rather than making a moulded lead piece for the nose. Tape a small plastic bag to the nose of the model leaving it open at the top. Put the model on a balancer and pour lead shot into the bag until the model balances.
- Page 13 Suggested set-up: Elevator: measured at trailing edge root: 12mm each way high; 9mm each way low. Rudder: measured at base: 26mm each way high; 21mm each way low. Aileron: measured at tip: 9mm each way high; 7mm each way low. Flap as aileron measured at root: 6mm each way high;...
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