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Needle and thread
Table on needle and thread
should always be convenient to fabric. Use needle system
705/130. Upper and lower thread generally equal, lower thread
eventually somewhat thinner, but never thicker than
upper thread.
When working the fabric, a general hint:
Thin material:
needle Nm 70—SO
Medium material:
needle Nm 80—90
Heavy material:
needle Nm 100—110
Needle point:
for elastic material: girdles
helanca, for repair R-point
for new sewing R-k-point
For normal sewing
works:
R-point.
For exact embroideries, e. g. letters, cording works with bed
linen etc. R-spi-point,
When using synth, thread, upper and lower thread tension
should be adjusted looser, thus the seam is more elastic.
Needle
Cotton
Silk
Synth.
Linen
Nm
triple Ne
Nm
Nm
Et. No.
60—70
80
1203
100/120/3
—
70—80
70
100—80/3 70-120/3
—
80—90
50—60
70/3
50—100/3
70/3
90—100
30—40
603
40—70/3
603
100—1 10
20—30
50/3
40—5G'3
50/3
1 10—1 20
20
40i3
30—40/3
40/3
120—130
12
30/3
30/3
30—40/3
130—140
—
—
20—30i3
303
140—1 50
—
—
20:3
25/3
150—160
embroidery
—
—
20:3
thread 6-phase
183
180—200
embroidery
—
—
thread 9-phase
Material
Kind of thread and thickness
Needle point and thickness
Cotton twill, bed linen, all days-cloths etc.
Cotton 40
R Nm 90—100
Cambric of all kind, for blouses
Depend. on kind of material,
For normal sewing works A Nm 70—80
Cloth for shirts and blouses (repairs with
silk 100 or cotton 80
For embroideries R-spi Nm 70—80
synth. shirts and blouses too)
Cotton 60—80, silk 100 or
A Nm 70—80
Terry and chenille cloths, for bathing-
synth. 100-1 20 dep. on kind and
thickness of material
wraps
too
RNm9O—100
Elastic corsetery
Cotton 40 or silk 80
Firm corsetery
Synth. 60 or cotton 40
A-k Nm 90
Knitted, wool
Cotton 40—60
A Nm 90
Knitted, synth.
Silk 80-1 00 or cotton 60
Fl Nm 80—1 00
(thread tension loose)
Synth. 70-1 20 depend.
R Nm 80-1 00
Clothing material of: sateen, ottoman,
on kind of material
tafetas, crêpe, chiffon etc.
Silk 100 or cotton 60—80
A Nm 80—90 for sateen
and tafetas Nm 70—80
Dresses of cotton
dto. of wool
Cotton 40—60
A Nm 80—100
Lastex- and Helanca cloth
Silk 110 or cotton 40—60
A Nm 80—100
(thread tension loose)
Synth. 60—70 depend.
A Nm 80-1 00
Suitings and mantlings
or silk 40—60
Cotton 40—50 or silk 80-1 00
A Nm 90—100
Soft furnishings of:
merc,
cotton 60—80
A Nm 80
cotton, synth.
A Nm 70—80
Acella (plastics)
synth. 120
Cotton 60
A Nm 80—90
artif. leather, canvas
Decorative seams
Buttonhole silk 40 3
A Nm 100—110
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