Download
Share
Print this page
  1. Manuals
  2. Brands
  3. PCM Manuals
  4. Toy
  5. DV8R
  6. Construction and flight manual

PCM DV8R Construction And Flight Manual

Hide thumbs

Advertisement

Quick Links

Download this manual

Advertisement

loading
Need help?

Need help?

Do you have a question about the DV8R and is the answer not in the manual?

Questions and answers

Related Manuals for PCM DV8R

Summary of Contents for PCM DV8R

  • Page 2 With its large size, light wing loading and generous landing gear stance, the DV8R has an incredible flight envelope that will prove favorable to nearly any jet pilot. We are so impressed with DV8R’s flight prowess, it’s smoothness and it’s extreme stability at all...
  • Page 3 Options The DV8R kit as shipped to you is a complete kit. In addition to the kit there are items you will need to obtain to finish your model. Options such as landing gear, brakes, fuel tanks, servo mounts and more can be purchased directly from PCM.

  • Page 4: Hardware Selection

    Engine selection - Please READ! The factory DV8R is flying with a JetCat P80, which is a perfect match for this model. There are many other manufacturers of engines that are in the 17 – 28 pound thrust range.

  • Page 5: Parts Lists

    Parts Lists (BOLD FONT DENOTES LASERCUT PARTS) Main Fuselage Construction 1] FF1 X 2 (1/8 Plywood) 2] FF2 X 2 (1/8 Plywood) 3] FF3 X 2 (1/8 Plywood) 4] FF4 X 2 (1/8 Plywood) 5] FF5 X 2 (1/8 Plywood) 6] FF6 X 2 (1/8 Plywood) 7] FF7 X 1 (1/8...
  • Page 6 37] 36” Kevlar Steering Cable x 1 38] ¼ x ½ x 36 Spruce x 1 39] Fiberglass Canopy Hatch Main Wing Construction 1] CNC Foam cores x 2 (Left and Right) 2] MAIN SPAR x 1 (1/8 Plywood) 3] MAIN SPAR DOUBLER X 1 (1/8 Plywood) 4] FRONT SPAR x 1(1/8 Plywood)
  • Page 7 Vertical Fins and Stabilizers Assembly 1] Foam Stabilizer Cores x 2 2] Vertical Fin Foam Cores x 2 3] TF1 X 2 (1/8 Plywood) 4] SF1 X 2 (1/8 Balsa) 5] VF1 X 2 (1/8 Balsa) 6] Balsa Stabilizer Tips x 2 7] Balsa Fin Tips x 2 8] 1/16 x 4 x 36 Balsa Sheet x 10...
  • Page 8 Rear Fuselage Construction (Booms) To arrive at the DV8R’s uniquely shaped fuselage, we have devised a method that allows you to build the fuselage in three separate sections and then these are brought together for final assembly much like a full scale aircraft is built. IMPORTANT: It is very strongly recommended that you closely follow the instructions as we present them here in order to construct the model correctly.
  • Page 9 Locate formers FF3, BH8 and TF1. Trial fit these parts together as shown below. Make sure that all of the parts fit together squarely and tight. Once satisfied with the fit, add the former FF6 and once again ensure th the fit is correct and the boom structure is square.
  • Page 10 Locate former FF4 and trial onto the boom assembly as shown, when satisfied with the fit you can final glue the former onto the assembly which will complete one of the booms. Repeat all of the above steps build the other boom. Don’t forget that you must b uild an OPPOSITE boom!
  • Page 11 Bevel Here ½ Balsa Tri Stock ¼ x ½ Spruce Check to make sure that all joints are securely glued and that the boom structure is straight and square. Some of the interior areas around the motor mount will be visible on the completed model.
  • Page 12 MAIN FUSELAGE CONSTRUCTION Locate formers FF1 and FF2 and two 1/8 x 2 x 6 pieces of plywood; these are the main fuselage formers. Join the formers together with the plywood pieces on a flat surface and make sure you have a left and right.
  • Page 13 Some of the steps require that you bend the plywood to form some of the more comple shapes of the DV8R. We use 1-inch masking tape to good effect during the construction of this section. Before beginning, cut several lengths of tape and have them ready so that wh you bend the pieces into position you can quickly secure the assembly with the tape and some light glue tacking.
  • Page 14 The fuselage sections should arrive at the nose equally. Locate the two HF1 formers and secur e onto the top se ction using masking tape as before. Insert former BH4 into position on top of BH6 and just behind th e HF1 formers as shown (Below Right).
  • Page 15 NOTE: At this time you may want to go ahead and bolt the nose gear unit into place but it is not necessary. You can set up the nose steering servo without the nose gear in place. Cut sections of ¼ x ½ Spruce from the supplied stock to mount the nose steering servo as shown...
  • Page 16 Joining the two fuselage sections As you can see, the joining of the two sections is very straightforward. The bend in the back of the fuselage will require the use of masking tape as before to hold everything tightly in place while checking for squareness and fit. The keys to the fit of the two sections are the tabs on the former BH7 and the...
  • Page 17 Continue gluing the structure at all joints. The fuselage sides at the rear of the model, on the bottom, are butted up against the curved sides of Formers FF3. The sides of the fuselage at the top will have an approximately ½...
  • Page 18 First sand the balsa formers flush with the sides and top of the fuselage and then you Do not sand beyond may round these formers off to give a smooth this point for now. and flowing shape. NOTE: At the rear where the balsa formers blend into the square ply wood section you will want to shape the balsa such that it blends from a square edge at the rear into a more round shape just...
  • Page 19 Installing the Canopy Hatch The hatch, when completed, slides into place by utilizing six hook like fixtures on the bottom of the canopy structure. Familiarize your self with the shape and location of these fixtures to get a good idea as to the orientation of all parts involved. Begin by locating the six HF6 formers and the two HF2 formers.
  • Page 20 Use scrap plywood to make two joiners to span the rear gaps of the two sections. Slide the sections into place on the model and make sure of the fit as before. Now glue the two joiners in place onto the sections but make sure not to glue the hatch formers to the model.
  • Page 21 Place the wooden hatch former into position on the model on top of the tape and once again trial fit the canopy onto the framework to ensure that you still have a good fit. Looking at the canopy try to get an idea as to where the fiberglass comes into contact with the wooden framework beneath it.
  • Page 22 You will not need the gear for construction but you should have it in hand before sheeting. PCM has worked with Robart to produce a matched set of landing gear for this model. All of the steps and instructions are for this gear. If you choose to substitute the gear, it will be up to you to insure fit, operation and feasibility of your chosen gear.
  • Page 23 Begin by laminating the two rear spars together and then add the rear spar doubler to that. Ensure that you get the centers correct, draw a centerline if necessary. Use CA or epoxy but make sure of a good fit and ample adhesive. You will need to use a piece of 1/8 balsa or light ply to place outboard of the rear spar doubler that makes the rear spar 3/8...
  • Page 24 Tack glue the rear of the formers to the Rear Spar ensuring alignment top and bottom, then reinforce with ½ balsa triangle stock as shown. (NOTE: This photo is of a prototype wing, it does not have the machined slots and pockets, as does your kit).
  • Page 25 From the length of 1 x 1 balsa triangle stock, cut pieces to fit over the gear plate as shown to further reinforce this area. Once the triangle is in, mix up a batch of milled fiber and epoxy and thoroughly apply the mixture to the top and bottom of all joints within the gear bay area.
  • Page 26 Included in your kit are sixteen (16) sheets of 1/8 x 4 x 48 balsa and four (4) sheets of 1/8 x 4 x 36 balsa. Take a look at the following photos to get an idea as to the layout of the individual pieces to arrive at a complete skin.
  • Page 27 Place another 48-inch sheet onto the cradle, this time aligned with the front of the cradle as shown. Be sure to leave a little over hang (3/8ths) on the front just as you did with the rear. Make a line on the front sheet right where the back sheet assembly crosses underneath.
  • Page 28 This completes the making of one wing skin. Using the copies made earlier, make up the other three sheets in the same manner. To complete the skins and get them ready for application to the wing, you may now sand the wing skins as a single unit to eliminate any seems and make the skin perfectly flat.
  • Page 29 The skins will be applied, one at a time and the bottoms are applied first. Make up one skin as talked about above. You will need a large flat surface on which to work. You will also need some weight with which to hold everything in place while the skins set.
  • Page 30 Place the skin into the bottom cradle of the wing you are working on, and then place the foam wing onto the skin in the approximate position. We want the extreme tip of the skin to be exactly three inches from the center of the ½ inch cutout in the wing. This should be close to ½...
  • Page 31 Use the marks at the tip made in an earlier sequence as a guide at the tip for marking the edges of the ½ inch cutout. Make a mark on the top and bottom skin in the center of these two marks. Measure down the trailing edge of the wing from the tip 35.5 inches and make a mark.
  • Page 32 Use scrap 1/16 balsa sheet to cover the foam at the flap root and the open portion of the corresponding flap pocket. Sand flush with surface. Hold the Flap/Aileron back into position on the wing with a scrap piece of 1/8 balsa as a spacer between the Flap/Aileron and wing.
  • Page 33 Servo Mounting You will need to have six (6) servo mounts for the DV8R that will allow the servos for the Ailerons (2), Flaps (2) and Elevators (2) to lie flat within their structures. The ServoPro was designed specifically to fill this need and is strongly recommended.
  • Page 34 The two Flap servos are located within the gear bays. The 4-40 pushrod runs underneath the gear leg (when retracted) and passes through the balsa sheeting and out to the horn located in the top of the flap. The Flap is Bottom hinged. Flap Detail Diagram Servo mounted Note position of servo arm...
  • Page 35 Make the pushrod from the supplied 4-40 materials, the solder clevis goes towards the servo end after cutting the rod to length and the adjustable clevis attaches to the control horn. Solder the clevis to the pushrod using a quality silver solder. Repeat the installation of the servo, control horn, 4-40 pushrod and clevises for the other flap.

  • Page 36: Final Fuselage Construction

    Epoxy the balsa wing tips onto the wing and shape to satisfaction. Epoxy the front spar into position on the front of the wing Place the fuselage upside down on a flat surface or in a cradle and trial fit the wing into the wing saddle.
  • Page 37 Continue one strip at a time until you get to the location of the nose gear. You will need to have the gear in place at this time. Raise the gear leg out of the fuselage and note where it contacts the wood and begin to cut away the necessary balsa to make the opening.
  • Page 38 We will give you the measurements for the hinge line then you will add ¼ front and rear and make marks top and bottom the cut away the control surface and finish the edges to the lines you have drawn. Stabilizer Detail Servo pocket (2 x 3) set Leading edge and...
  • Page 39 When finished, the stabilizer is ready for final sanding and covering and can be mounted last to aid in easing the covering. Complete both Stabilizers. Vertical Fin Detail Leading and trailing edges are made from the supplied ¼ balsa stock. The tip hinge line Measurement is 3.25 inches Top of the Rudders are 3...
  • Page 40 The rudders use a sleeker horn that is epoxied into a slot made at the base of the rudders. (See Photos for details). Make up control rods and clevises as before. When satisfied with fit and finish you can final sand in preparation for covering. The fins can be mounted after covering.
  • Page 41 Final DV8R Construction At this point the wood construction of your model should be complete. It would be a good time now to go through and make a trial run of installing all of you on board equipment such as radio, fuel tanks, engine and related accessories, air system and so on to get an idea as to where everything goes.
  • Page 42 BH2 has be light ply and removed to facilitate this installation and supported on ½ is NOT part of the kit) x ¼ Spruce (Removable) DV8R Nose gear Main air tank on floor behind BH2. Receiver battery. ECU Battery Steering control...

  • Page 43: Turbine Installation

    Turbine Installation The factory Prototype uses a JetCat P-80 (18 Pounds Thrust) located as shown. The engine is mounted such that it is just above the 1/8 plywood joiner that ties the two boom halves together. All turbine lines and pluming as well as the servo leads for the tail are routed beside the motor mounts and up through the fuel tank area to the rear forward hatch.
  • Page 44 GYRO While the DV8R certainly does NOT need a gyro I install one because of the slight benefits it affords me in a variety of conditions- simply put in choppy wind conditions a gyro will smooth out the flight of ANY model when properly installed.
  • Page 45 Indeed if you tried this on such a model as the DV8R, you would need eight channels for the flight surfaces alone, add Retracts, Brakes, Throttle, Turbine kill switch, a gyro and we’re up to 13 channels already!

  • Page 46: Control Throws

    Overview of the Systems Installation Needless to say the operation of all systems within the model (radio, engine, retracts and so on) is of the highest importance. The success of your model depends on these systems working properly. The manufacturers of these systems will include information pertaining to their operation, if you have experience in these areas you will have no problem, if not we strongly recommend that you seek assistance in the installation and operation of these systems.
  • Page 47 FLYING DV8R The DV8R is truly one of the smoothest jets you may ever fly. It has no bad manners and performs like a very large pattern model. If you set your model up as mentioned previously you will have no problems on your first flight.