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The Mizzen Mast
Using Plan Sheets 6 & 8 for reference, the mizzen mast is constructed in the same manner as the fore mast with the following
points of note:
1.
There is a pronounced rake on the mizzen mast as can be seen on the drawings. This angle is pre-determined by the
mizzen mast slot in the keel.
2.
The cheeks bibbs and tops are to be fitted with the same considerations as listed for the main mast.
3.
The mizzen lower mast should not be tapered to accommodate the mizzen cheeks, instead the cheeks are fitted
directly to the mizzen mast.
4.
There is no rubbing paunch on the mizzen mast.
5.
There is no mizzen topgallant mast fid. The topgallant mast sits directly into the tops without the need for a fid.
6.
The tolerances, particularly for the topgallant mast are critical. As a result, the topmast cap has had to be produced in
two halves. The build process for the mizzen mast remains the same as the other masts except for this.
7.
Referring to Plan Sheet 6 you should notice on the topgallant mast that the octagonal pattern is tapered along its
entire length. In other words, it is tapered from 2.5mm to 4mm along the entire 7mm length and there is no straight
octagonal on the top.
8.
Do not forget to fit the mizzen mast circular fife rail (207), it is positioned 13mm off the deck, there is no boarding
pike rack for the mizzen mast.
Using Plan Sheet 7 for reference, make up the yards and booms to the dimensions shown.
The centre, octagonal sections, of the fore and main yards are constructed by securing 8 lengths of 0.5x4mm walnut to the
dowel.
Note: the batten on the aft face is twice the length of the other seven. For the fore yard it measures 188mm compared to 94mm
for the other seven. For the main yard it measures 216mm compared to 108mm for the other seven.
The centre, octagonal sections, of the fore and main topmast yards are constructed by securing 4 lengths of 0.5x3mm walnut to
the dowel, with spacers also of 0.5x3mm walnut as shown.
The centre of the mizzen crossjack yard has a length of 05x1mm walnut (cut from 0.5x3mm) secured to its aft face. Also, the
mizzen topmast yard has four lengths of 0.5x2mm walnut (cut from 0.5x4mm) secured to the top, bottom, fore and aft faces.
The stop cleats on all yards are constructed from 1.5x1.5mm walnut shaped as required.
Note: the stop cleats on the aft only of the topmast yards double as snatch blocks for the topgallant yard sheets. To simulate
this, cut a piece of 1.5x1.5mm walnut (or scrap 1.5mm ply) to length and, using a needle file, file a semi-circular notch out of
one face. This face is then glued against the yard as shown (Fig 031).
Cut cleat from 1.5mm walnut, file a notch in one face, glue to aft face only of topmast yards.
Note: all booms are secured to the yards through yard rings as shown and are offset through 45 degrees above and fore of the
yard. The outermost rings are located, using brass wire, to holes drilled into the end of their respective yards, through the brass
etched boom iron straps where appropriate.
With the masts and yards assembled and referring to Plan Sheets 8, 9, 10 & 11 & (Fig 33 - 44) fit the blocks, eyelets, horses
and flemish horses to the masts, yards and tops as shown. Unless directed otherwise on the plan, the smaller blocks (2 - 5mm)
should be attached with 0.25mm black thread and larger blocks (7mm +) should be attached with 0.5mm black thread.
Note: all of the blocks on the yards should be positioned directly on top of or directly underneath the yards, i.e. they are all
'behind' the booms.
Note: when instructed to use the pre-cut blocks (10mm & 7mm open heart blocks, 10mm triple & double jeer blocks and the
8.5mm triple cat blocks), you will need to file a slight groove around the outer edge to take the strop as shown (Photo 041).
4
Yards & Booms
Fig 031
Mast & Yard Blocks
©
2003 JoTiKa Ltd.
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