Download Print this page

Jotika H.M.S. Victory 1805 Manual page 14

Masting & rigging manual
Hide thumbs Also See for H.M.S. Victory 1805:

Advertisement

Lower Mast Shrouds:
Shrouds are next to be set-up and a formal sequence must be adhered to. Forward starboard, forward port alternating. The fore
and main mast shrouds are from 1.3mm black thread and the mizzen are from 0.75 black thread, as shown on Plan Sheet 12
together with the appropriate deadeye sizes (The deadeyes are attached to the channels as shown on Plan Sheet 2). Roughly
measure out the length of each pair of shrouds and cut the required number of pairs before setting up (they get longer as you
progress). Rig one end of each shroud with the appropriate size deadeye. The upper and lower deadeyes need to be correctly
and uniformly spaced. The spacing for the lower mast deadeyes should be 20mm . A small jig can be made as follows, cut two
lengths of 1mm wire approximately 40mm long, bend 10mm from each end to an angle of 90 degrees. This should leave 20mm
between each end. A similar jig can be made (in different size material) for different size blocks. The spacing for the fore and
main topmast deadeyes should be 15mm and the mizzen 13mm. One end of the jig can be slotted into the middle hole of the
lower deadeye with the other end into the middle hole of the shroud deadeye. Thread the loose end of the shroud through the
'top' around the mast, back through the 'top' and down to the second deadeye. Insert a loose deadeye into the second spacing
jig with the other end of the jig in the corresponding deadeye. The loose end of the shroud should then be wrapped around the
deadeye with 0.25mm black thread. Tie the pair of shrouds together near the tops and then push the knot up to the bolster. Rig
the lanyards (cable laid) to the deadeyes using 0.5mm natural thread as shown on Plan Sheet 12, 'Rigging detail'. Continue
this procedure until all the lower mast shrouds have been set up. There is a futtock stave to each set of shrouds (both lower and
topmast shrouds). These are cut from 1mm brass to the length of the spread of the shrouds at the position to which they are to
be tied using 0.25mm black thread, as shown on Plan Sheet 12. Tie each shroud to the futtock stave with a simple clove hitch.
Note: the futtock stave is positioned across the shrouds at a distance as far below the 'top' as the mast cap is above the 'top' as
shown on Plan Sheet 12, 'Shroud, futtock stave & catharpin assembly'.
Each port futtock stave is tied to the opposite starboard futtock stave by ropes called catharpins as follows:
There are six catharpins on the fore and main lower mast made from 0.75mm black thread, they are tied in position between
shrouds 4 through 9.
The mizzen lower mast has two catharpins of 0.5mm black thread tied between shrouds 5 and 6.
The topmast futtock staves will be dealt with at a later stage.
Futtock Shrouds:
Identify the deadeye and futtock strop sizes from the plan. Insert the deadeye into the strop and position the strop into the slots
as shown on Plan Sheet 12, 'Fitting of deadeye futtock strops'. The futtock strops are attached to the futtock staves by the
futtock shrouds and small brass etched rigging hooks (547), as shown. The futtock shrouds are 0.75mm black thread for the
fore and main masts and 0.5mm black thread for the mizzen.
Topmast Shrouds:
The topmast shrouds are set up in a similar manner to the lower mast shrouds using the appropriate size material as shown on
Plan Sheet 12. There is a pair of 0.7mm brass futtock staves on the topmast shrouds as already described above, there are no
catharpins.
Note: two 3mm single blocks (one per side) should be secured between the first and second topmast shrouds as close under the
'top' as possible, on all masts and are used for the topmast yard lifts when rigged.
Topgallant Shrouds:
The topgallant shrouds are secured to the top of the mast as shown on Plan Sheet 12 and lead through the holes in the end of
the topmast top crosstrees and are tied off to the topmast futtock staves. There are three pairs for the fore and main mast of
0.5mm black thread and two pairs of 0.25mm black thread for the mizzen.
Note: two 3mm single blocks (one per side) should be secured between the first and second shrouds as close under the 'top' as
possible, on all masts and are used for the topgallant mast yard lifts when rigged. These blocks are shown on Plan Sheet 8, 9 &
10 as blocks secured in a strop around the topgallant shrouds. As the topgallant shrouds are close together, at this scale, you
may find it of benefit to rig these blocks in a strop as shown and run the first and second shrouds as falls from the arse of the
blocks.
Ratlines:
This stage will require a considerable amount of time and patience but the end result will be its own reward.
0.1mm natural thread is used and is secured to each shroud with a clove hitch as shown on Plan Sheet 12, 'Rigging detail'.
They should be uniformly spaced approximately 4.5mm apart. Leave about 15mm of excess thread at each end of each row of
ratlines, this will make the process of trimming the ends much easier. For the lower masts only, the foremost and aftermost
shrouds are omitted for the first six ratlines above the deadeyes and below the futtock staves. You may also find it beneficial
not to apply the two or three lower ratlines until after the shroud cleats have been fitted. Identify the locations of the shroud
cleats from Plan Sheet 18 and secure them into position (inboard) with 0.1mm natural thread . The cleats and 0.1mm thread
should be painted black when in position. Finish the ratlines, brush on watered down PVA and finally trim the ratlines only
when dry.
Note: the ratlines on Victory are not black.
©
13
2003 JoTiKa Ltd.

Advertisement

loading

Related Products for Jotika H.M.S. Victory 1805