Hoshizaki FD-1001MLH(-C) Service Manual page 64

e. Float Switch (K8 connector pins #5 black (BK) wire, #6 red (R) wire (upper), and
#7 dark blue (DBU) wire (lower)): 5VDC is present from the white K5 connector pin
closest to red K4 connector to the K8 connector pin #5 (black (BK) wire). If 5VDC is
not present, the control board is bad and must be replaced. For further float switch
diagnostics, see "IV.E. Float Switch Check and Cleaning."
6) "WTRIN" LED is on, and the inlet water valve is off: Check that the water supply is
on and that no water restrictions exist. Next, check for 24VAC from the K2 connector
pin #7 white/red (W/R) wire to a light blue (LBU) wire. If 24VAC is present, check for
24VAC from the K2 connector pin #8 white/brown wire to a light blue (LBU) wire. If
24VAC is not present, the control board is bad and must be replaced. If 24VAC is
present, check for 24VAC directly across the inlet water valve solenoid. If 24VAC is
present, turn off the power supply and check continuity across the inlet water valve
solenoid. If open, replace the inlet water valve.
7) "GM" LED is on and the gear motor and condenser fan are off: Check for 115VAC
from the K1 connector pin #2 brown (BR) wire to a white (W) neutral wire. If 115VAC
is not present, see "IV.B. Diagnostic Procedure" step 5. If 115VAC is present, check
for 115VAC from the control board K1 connector pin #3 black (BK) wire to a white (W)
neutral wire. If 115VAC is not present, the control board is bad and must be replaced.
8) "GM" and "COMP" LED are on and the compressor is off: (Note: To bypass the Ice
Purge Cycle, press the "SERVICE" button after the "GM" LED turns on). Check for
115VAC from the control board X1 relay brown (BR) wire to a white neutral wire. If
115VAC is not present, see "IV.B. Diagnostic Procedure" step 5. If 115VAC is present,
check X1 relay red (R) wire to a white neutral wire. If 115VAC is not present, the control
board is bad and must be replaced.
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