Bernina Artista 165 Instruction Manual
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IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

When using an electrical appliance, basic safety
precautions should always be followed, including the
following.
Read all instructions before using this sewing machine.
When the machine is not in use, it should be disconnected
from the electricity supply by removing the plug from the
power outlet.
DANGER
To reduce the risk of electric shock:
1. An appliance should never be left unattended when
plugged in.
2. Always unplug this appliance from the electric outlet
immediately after using and before cleaning.
WARNING
To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock or injury to
persons:
1. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is
necessary when this appliance is used by or near
children.
2. Use appliance only for its intended use as described in
this manual. Use only attachments recommended by
the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
3. Never operate this appliance if:
· it has a damaged cord or plug,
· it is not working properly,
· it has been dropped or damaged
· it has fallen into water
Return the appliance to the nearest authorized dealer
or service center for examination, repair, electrical or
mechanical adjustment.
4. Never operate the appliance with any air openings
blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing
machine and foot controller free from accumulation
of lint, dust and loose cloth.
5. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care
is required around the sewing needle.
6. Always use an original or recommended BERNINA
stitch plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to
break.
7. Do not use bent needles.
8. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may
deflect the needle causing it to break.
9. Turn power switch to "0" when making any
adjustments in the needle area, such as threading
or changing the needle, threading the bobbin or
changing the presser foot.
10. Always unplug the sewing machine from the
electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating
or when making any other user servicing adjustments
mentioned in this instruction manual.
11. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
12. Do not use outdoors.
13. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are
being used or where oxygen is being administered.
14. To disconnect, turn all controls to the off ("0")
position then remove the plug from the outlet.
15. Do not unplug by pulling on the cord but grasp the
plug before pulling.
16. No responsibility will be taken for any possible
damage as the result of misuse of the machine.
17. This machine is provided with double insulation.
Use only identical replacement parts. See instructions
for Servicing of Double-Insulated machines.
SERVICING DOUBLE-
INSULATED PRODUCTS
In a double-insulated product, two systems of insulation
are provided instead of grounding. No means of
grounding is provided on a double-insulated product nor
should a means for grounding be added to the product.
Servicing a double-insulated product requires extreme
care and knowledge of the system and should only be
done by qualified service personnel. Replacement parts
for a double-insulated product must be identical to those
parts in the product. A double insulated product is
marked with the words "DOUBLE INSULATION" or
"DOUBLE INSULATED".
The symbol
SAVE THESE
INSTRUCTIONS!
This sewing machine is intended for household use only.
030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN
Safety Instructions
may also be marked on the product.
1

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Table of Contents
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Summary of Contents for Bernina Artista 165

  • Page 1: Important Safety Instructions

    5. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care This sewing machine is intended for household use only. is required around the sewing needle. 6. Always use an original or recommended BERNINA stitch plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.
  • Page 2 In addition, a wide range of sewing accessories, together with sewing publications full of practical and creative ideas, add to the joy of sewing the BERNINA way. It gives me great pleasure to welcome you into the BERNINA family.
  • Page 3: Table Of Contents

    Contents Safety Instructions Foreword 4–5 Details of the machine 6–12 Setting up the machine 13–14 Stitch Summary Presser feet 16–17 Practical stitches/buttonholes 18–21 General instructions 22–28 Functions Messages 29–37 Buttonholes 37–38 Alphabets/numbers 38–43 Memory Quilt stitches Balance Help 47–48 TC (Tutorial / Creative Consultant) Smart function 50–61 Setup program...
  • Page 4: Details Of The Machine

    Details Details of the machine Front view Back view 030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN...
  • Page 5 Details Bobbin cover Stitch plate Attachment base for optional accessories Darning ring connection Presser foot Needle clamp Thread guide Needle threader Thread take-up cover Thread path Thread take-up Bobbin pre-tension Quick reverse button F (Favorite Function) button Pattern end Screen Bobbin winder with on/off switch and thread cutter Practical stitch button...
  • Page 6: Carrying Case

    Setting up the machine Carrying case Carrying case · protects from dust and dirt · compartment for accessories Accessories · foot control · instruction manual · power cable · warranty card · FHS presser foot lifter (Free Hand System) · ruler for sewing table ·...
  • Page 7: Setting Up The Machine

    Setting up the machine Power cable The power cable is stored in the case Important! (USA/Canada only) · plug A into machine This sewing machine has a polarized plug · plug B into electrical outlet (one blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug Foot control cable is intended to fit only one way into a...
  • Page 8: Winding The Bobbin

    Setting up the machine Winding the bobbin Winding the bobbin Threading the bobbin Thread cutter · turn power switch on · following the direction of the arrow take thread through · cut the thread on the · place empty bobbin on the rear guide and round the pre-tension stud thread cutter spindle...
  • Page 9: Changing The Needle

    Setting up the machine Changing the needle Removing the needle · raise the needle · turn power switch to 0 · lower the presser foot · loosen the needle clamp with the torx screwdriver · pull the needle down to remove Inserting the needle ·...
  • Page 10: Threading The Upper Thread

    Setting up the machine Threading the upper thread Attaching the thread spool · raise the needle and presser foot · turn the power switch to «0» (off) · attach the foam pad · place spool on pin (spool turns clockwise) ·...
  • Page 11: Thread Cutter

    Setting up the machine Thread cutter Thread cutter on head frame · lower the presser foot and pull both threads from front to back over the cutter · the threads release as soon as the first stitch is sewn Stitch Plate Stitch plate markings ·...
  • Page 12: Thread Tension

    Setting up the machine Thread tension The tension is factory set for best possible sewing results Different threads, including embroidery and decorative using a 100 weight, 3 ply polyester thread (100/3). Other threads, may require tension adjustments. The tensions types and weights can affect the stitch, causing a need should be adjusted to suit the thread, fabric and stitch.
  • Page 13: Stitch Summary

    Stitch Summary Practical stitches Buttonholes Decorative stitches 030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN...
  • Page 14: Quilt Stitches

    Stitch Summary Quilt stitches Alphabets 030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN...
  • Page 15: Presser Feet

    Samples of Specialty Presser Feet The standard selection of presser feet covers most nor- mal sewing requirements but we recommend the use of BERNINA specialty feet for specific sewing tasks such as quilting, heirloom sewing, home decorating, tailoring, etc. They are available from your BERNINA dealer.
  • Page 16: Practical Stitches

    Practical stitches Practical stitches 1 Straight stitch 11 Super stretch All non-stretch fabrics. All straight Open seam in all super-stretch fabrics stitch work. such as Lycra, 2 Zig-zag 12 Gathering stitch Most fabric types. All simple zig-zag Most types of fabric. Gathering with shirring elastic.
  • Page 17: Practical Stitches/Buttonholes

    Practical stitches/Buttonholes 21 Basting 24 Bar tack program Basting seams, hems, etc. Reinforcing pocket edges, belt loops etc. 22 Simple darning program 25 Bar tack program Automatic darning in fine and Reinforcing pocket edges, belt loops medium weight fabrics. etc. For more information on using various practical stitches, refer to the artista 165 23 Reinforced darning program...
  • Page 18 General instructions Screen The artista is operated with a combination of external buttons and knobs and a touch screen. Switch machine on · power switch to “1” Welcome screen · welcome · appears for approximately 3 seconds · can be omitted in the Setup program Practical stitch screen F –...
  • Page 19: General Instructions

    General instructions On screen stitch selection/stitch display/functions Select a stitch Altering the needle · touch the stitch of your choice position · the stitch is highlighted · press the right or · every stitch is displayed with its left needle position number button ·...
  • Page 20: Stitch Selection

    General instructions Stitch selection Stitches can be selected using one of the two methods listed below. Direct selection by scrolling up/down · the scroll function (up/down) is · touch the arrow (down) used to find and view all the · scroll the screen to view all stitches machine’s stitches ·...
  • Page 21 General instructions Buttonhole button · the buttonhole menu appears, including the eyelet and button sew-on programs Decorative stitch button · the decorative stitch menu appears · pattern types can be selected · 5.5 mm decorative stitches · touch to select the desired stitch group ·...
  • Page 22: Functions

    Functions External function buttons clr (Clear) button Smart button · press the clr button · press the Smart button · stitch length, width and needle · the stitch is saved with all position will be returned to basic adjustments to width, length, and settings needle position ·...
  • Page 23: General Functions

    Functions Single Pattern (above needle) F (Favorite function) button · press the pattern end button (above needle) · machine stops at the end of the · this button can be individually next stitch pattern sewn programmed in Setup with a function of your choice ·...
  • Page 24 Functions Function toolbar The following functions are available on the artista functions), the remaining ones will be hidden and can be sewing machines. Any function which can be used in the accessed by using the arrow in the lower right corner to selected program will appear on the screen in the bottom scroll.
  • Page 25 Functions Stitch selection by number Continuous reverse sewing · touch number symbol · touch symbol · select stitch by touching the · sews the selected stitch in reverse appropriate number combination Application: Applications: · darning with straight or running · quick selection of individual stitch stitch ·...
  • Page 26 Functions Functions in Setup The functions below are found in the Setup program of the touching Functions on the screen. These functions are used artista sewing machine. They are accessed by pressing the when setting the features and functions of the machine to your external Setup button on the front of the machine and then personal requirements.
  • Page 27 Functions Scroll right Edit memory contents · touch symbol one or several times · touch symbol · memory contents are scrolled · correct, edit stitches, letters or forwards numbers to the left of the cursor · insert functions, mirror image ·...
  • Page 28 Functions Buttonhole program functions The functions below appear on the function toolbar at the lower edge of the screen when any buttonhole (stitches 51–62) is selected. Buttonhole length – direct length Manual buttonhole entry · touch symbol · touch symbol to open number ·...
  • Page 29: Messages

    Messages/Buttonholes Messages The following messages may appear on the screen of of the messages pertaining to the sewing machine (see the artista sewing machine during certain operations. embroidery manual for messages that pertain to the They are reminders, warnings, or confirmations about embroidery module) and the appropriate responses.
  • Page 30 Buttonholes 57 Keyhole 59 Straight Stitch 61 Eyelet – buttonhole buttonhole – narrow zigzag pointed bartack 58 Keyhole 60 Button Sew- 62 Eyelet – buttonhole – on program straight stitch horizontal bartack Automatic buttonholes (standard and stretch) Both beads are sewn in the same direction. Buttonhole length = buttonhole opening in mm Note: the automatic buttonhole foot 3A must lie flat on the fabric, i.e.
  • Page 31 Buttonholes Automatic buttonholes (round and keyhole) Both beads of the buttonhole are sewn in the same direction. Buttonhole length = buttonhole opening in mm Sewing the first straight stitches Programming the buttonhole · the sewn section will be displayed · press the quick reverse button on the screen (to the right of the ·...
  • Page 32 Buttonholes Automatic buttonhole (standard and stretch) Length calculated from button The buttonhole size can be deter- mined by holding a button on the screen. The length will be determined by the machine and displayed on the screen. Open calculation screen ·...
  • Page 33 Buttonholes 1st bead length · press and release the quick reverse · sew the first bead, stopping the button on the frame machine at the desired buttonhole length Bartack, 2nd bead · Continue stitching the reverse · the machine sews the end of the bead, stopping when the needle is buttonhole and automatically even with the beginning of the...
  • Page 34: Buttonhole In Long Term Memory

    Buttonholes Buttonhole in Long Term Memory One buttonhole of each type may be Once the length of the buttonhole is saved in special buttonhole memory determined, the programmed banks. This does not affect the buttonhole can be saved using the standard memory of the machine.
  • Page 35 Buttonholes Sewing a Four-step Buttonhole (round and keyhole) Sewing a 4-step buttonhole · length of beads is determined by the user · touch “1” · sew the 1st bead · bartack, keyhole, and securing · stop the machine at the desired stitches are preprogrammed ·...
  • Page 36 Buttonholes Straight stitch buttonholes Straight stitched buttonholes are · Automatic buttonhole foot No.3A particularly useful for reinforcing – programming is exactly the same satin stitched buttonholes on all soft as for the auto buttonhole and loosely woven fabrics such as program (page 29–32) wool, or for buttonholes which are ·...
  • Page 37: Alphabets/Numbers

    Buttonholes/Alphabets/Numbers Eyelet program Eyelets · select eyelet · 61 zig-zag eyelet · 62 straight stitch eyelet Sewing the eyelet · machine stops automatically at the end of the program Punching the eyelet · use an awl to punch the hole in the For eyelet examples, refer to the eyelet artista 165 Sewing Manual, page 30.
  • Page 38: Programming Letters/Numbers

    Alphabets/Numbers/Memory Programming letters/numbers Programming · open memory · touch to select letter · the letter appears in memory · the cursor moves to the right behind the letter Continue programming · touch to select the next letter · the letter appears in memory ·...
  • Page 39 Memory Programming stitches Programming will show on the screen when the · select the desired stitch memory is activated. If the machine · make any desired adjustments to has not been turned off, the last stitch width, stitch length, and memory bank opened will show.
  • Page 40: Memory Functions

    Memory Back to stitch screen · touch esc · the screen reverts to the stitch screen which includes the selected stitch · the selected stitch is activated (highlighted) Editing memory contents Stitches with functions · stitches can be modified after being programmed into memory ·...
  • Page 41 Memory Securing Function Horizontal Mirror Image Memory Sub-division Vertical Mirror Image Pattern Extend Letter Size Balance View memory contents View memory contents · the window closes and the memory · touch check bar appears · the memory contents appear in a ·...
  • Page 42 Memory Inserting a stitch in memory · place cursor where the stitch is to be inserted · select stitch/letter · the new stitch is inserted to the left of the cursor Saving memory contents/leave memory Save and leave memory · touch store ·...
  • Page 43 Memory Memory sub-division Memory sub-division Sewing · the contents of a memory can be · activate Pattern begin and sew sub-divided as desired, e.g. name, Note: when Pattern begin is street, town, etc. by using the edit activated, the cursor will move to feature the right of the first letter in that ·...
  • Page 44: Quilt Stitches

    Quilt stitches Quilt stitches Menu selection: Quilt stitches · press the external “Quilt Stitches” button · menu appears · touch symbol · quilt stitches appear Decorative quilt stitches Quilt stitches · touch to select desired stitch · selection of various stitches which ·...
  • Page 45: Balance

    Balance Balance All stitches are checked and fully stitch formation can be adjusted where necessary to suit the fabric. adjusted before the machine leaves the factory. There are 50 vertical steps. Open Balance Different fabrics, threads, stabilizers, and interfacings can affect ·...
  • Page 46: Help

    Help Program Help The Help program provides on-screen No matter which screen is displayed, explanations about individual stitches the help feature for stitches and and all functions, eliminating the functions can be opened. Touch esc need to refer regularly to the to return to the previous screen.
  • Page 47: Tc (Tutorial / Creative Consultant)

    After entering the type of fabric from your BERNINA dealer. and technique you wish to use, the Creative Consultant provides suggestions regarding needles, presser feet, interfacings, special External TC button ·...
  • Page 48 Tutorial/Creative Consultant Menu · the following menu appears: · Tutorial · Creative Consultant · touch Creative Consultant Fabric menu · if the fabric you wish to use is not · 3 columns of fabric types are listed, select a similar type of fabric displayed ·...
  • Page 49: Smart Function

    Smart Function Smart Function Sometimes you have to interrupt a The screen in which you are working task at hand to complete another with all the settings you made can be piece of sewing which must be done saved and easily re-opened. before you can carry on any further.
  • Page 50: Setup Program

    Setup-Program Setup Program The Setup program allows you to All changes made in the Setup personalize the screen to suit your program will be saved, even when own requirements and preferences. the machine is turned off. You can change basic settings The machine can be reset and permanently and program the F returned to the factory settings at...
  • Page 51: Personal Program

    Setup-Program Personal Program Use the Personal program to design a When inserting stitches into the screen with the stitches you use most Personal program, variations often. Whether it is made up of (different stitch widths, stitch stitches for a certain type of sewing, lengths, and needle positions) such as heirloom or garment, or just of all stitches may be entered...
  • Page 52 Setup-Program Inserting the second stitch · press the external Buttonhole button · touch the round buttonhole (stitch 54) Personal screen · screen changes to personal program · the round buttonhole appears on the screen · touch store to save the buttonhole in your personal program ·...
  • Page 53 Setup-Program Deleting stitches from the Personal Program Setup menu · press the external Setup button, menu appears · select personal program Personal screen · personal screen appears · select stitch to be deleted (will be highlighted) Delete the stitch · press the external clr button Stitch deleted ·...
  • Page 54 Setup-Program Functions screen · these functions can be used in any · all functions available appear on screen the screen · all functions in the lower rows are · the bottom two rows of functions active are the same as those that are ·...
  • Page 55 Setup-Program · the programmed function is displayed on the screen to the right of the needle stop position symbol · it can be reprogrammed in the same manner as often as you like Return all functions to basic settings · to reprogram the Favorite function ·...
  • Page 56 Setup-Program Beeper Setup menu · press the external Setup button, menu appears · touch Beeper · beeper menu appears Audio signals · bobbin winder · audio signals can be applied to the · embroidery end · audio signals can be turned on and following: ·...
  • Page 57: Return To Basic Settings

    Setup-Program Save and close Back to basic settings · touch OK to confirm the change · follow the directions above to · touch esc to return to the Setup enter the motor speed menu menu · touch reset to revert to factory ·...
  • Page 58: Sewing Light

    Setup-Program · a message will appear switch off and on your machine · the factory settings are restored Sewing light Setup menu · press the external Setup button, menu appears · select Sewing Light Switch light on/off · touch on ·...
  • Page 59: Version Information

    Setup-Program Version Information The version screen shows information information is helpful if you are about the version of software loaded asking questions of the dealer or if into the sewing machine and embroi- you plan to upgrade the software. dery module (special accessory). This Setup menu ·...
  • Page 60: Embroidery Hoop Adjustment

    Setup-Program Service Screen · service screen appears · select screen · select this screen if the on-screen buttons do not react properly when selected (touched) Calibration · touch esc to return to last selected · screen calibration screen appears stitch screen ·...
  • Page 61: Screen Contrast

    Setup-Program Save and close · Touch OK – close the screen · Touch esc – close Setup · Touch check in Layout 1 – close embroidery hoop adjustment Screen contrast The contrast of the screen can be adjusted for easier viewing. Setup menu ·...
  • Page 62: Eco (Ecology) Function

    These Ask your Bernina dealer for more accessories will add to the capabili- details! ties and versatility of the machine, CPS Program (optional accessory)
  • Page 63 Optional accessories Embroidery module (optional accessory) Embroidery module (optional selected, they appear on the screen accessory) and can be sewn immediately. You The embroidery module is a wonder- can position, mirror image, enlarge ful addition to your sewing machine, and reduce the motifs. offering you unlimited possibilities to use your imagination and creativity Additional embroidery motifs,...
  • Page 64 · select and sew the same as for stitches programmed on the embroidery module artista Embroidery Software (optional accessory) BERNINA Software comes in a variety fonts in your embroideries. Add of levels enabling you to choose the Cross-Stitch at any level to do cross software right for you.
  • Page 65 (PC symbol) · turn the machine on Important facts about sewing machine needles Sewing machine, needle and thread Needle/ Your Bernina uses needle system 130/705H. thread table 110–120 Needle and thread The most commonly sold needles are nos. 70–120. The Darning thread finer the needle, the lower the number.
  • Page 66 Needle, thread, fabric feed Important facts about sewing machine needles Special materials are easier to sew if the appropriate needle is used. Special needles are available at your BERNINA dealer. Needle table Description Needle point Suitable for Standard 130/705H Normal point,...
  • Page 67: Needles, Thread, Fabric Feed

    Needle, thread, fabric feed Feed-dog and fabric feed Feed-dog and stitch length With each stitch the feed-dog moves forward by one step. The length of this step is determined by the stitch length selected. With an extremely short stitch length, the steps are also short. The fabric moves under the foot quite slowly, even at full sewing speed.
  • Page 68: Cleaning And Maintenance

    Caution: Please note that a defective CFL sewing light must ONLY be replaced by an authorized technician. The sewing computer must be brought to an authorized BERNINA dealer! Please refer to the safety instructions! 030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN...
  • Page 69: Troubleshooting

    · the hole in the stitch plate has been damaged by the needle. This must be polished by a Bernina Certified Technician. Defective sewing light · the needle is blunt or bent.
  • Page 70: Glossary Of Terms

    Glossary of terms Glossary of terms check · to preview the contents of a memory bank clr (clear) · remove or restore settings, back to basic settings cursor · on-screen positioning marker (vertical line) · used in memory for marking deletions, insertions, etc. customized ·...
  • Page 71: Index

    Index Index Accessory box eco function General functions Alphabets/numbers 37–38 Editing functions ·esc ·alter size ·balance ·OK ·programming ·letter size ·Scroll down Alphabet programming functions ·long stitch ·Scroll up ·mirror image Glossary of terms ·motor speed ·pattern extend ·securing end of stitch Help program Balance ·sub-division...
  • Page 72 Index Presser feet, special 15, 63 ·Securing ·Stitch selection by number Presser foot pressure Presser foot, changing ·Vertical mirror image Presser foot indicator Touch screen selection 18–21 Troubleshooting Programming letters/numbers Tutorial/Creative Consultant 47–48 Quilt stitches Safety instructions Screen Selecting on-screen functions Setup 50–61 ·Beeper...
  • Page 73 Sewing Manual artista 165 030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN...
  • Page 74 030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN...
  • Page 75 Contents 2–5 Straight stitch, Zig-zag Altered memory 7–11 Practical stitch seams 12, 13 Sewing knits Zippers Long stitch function Basting stitch Blind hem 18, 19 Elastic, cord Bartack program 21–28 Buttonholes Button sew-on program Eyelets 31–34 Mending/darning Decorative stitches Cross stitches 37–39 Quilt stitches Decorative stitches combined with functions...
  • Page 76: Straight Stitch

    Straight stitch Straight stitch Stitch: Straight Stitch No. 1 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1 Jeans foot No. 8 (for sewing denim) Straight stitch ·...
  • Page 77 Straight stitch Securing stitch Stitch: Securing stitch No. 5 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1 Securing program · for all fabrics · secures beginning and end of seam ·...
  • Page 78 Straight stitch Edge stitching Stitch: Straight Stitch No. 1 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton, polyester, or cordonnet (topstitching) Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1 or Blindstitch Foot No. 5 or Edgestitch Foot No.
  • Page 79 Zig-zag Zig-zag stitch Stitch: Zig-zag No. 2 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1 Zig-zag applications · for all fabric types · for finishing raw edges ·...
  • Page 80 Personal (altered) Memory Altered Memory Stitch: Any selected stitch Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1 Altered Memory · for all stitches and fabrics ·...
  • Page 81 Practical stitch seams Practical stitch seams Open seams Seams which are pressed open · seam allowance width as wide as desired · seam lies flat · seam does not stretch Suggested stitches: · straight, narrow zigzag, super stretch, and triple zigzag Application: ·...
  • Page 82 Practical stitch seams Triple Straight Stitch seam Stitch: Triple Straight Stitch No. 6 Needle: 80–90 universal or jeans Thread: polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1 Jeans foot No. 8 Open seam · durable seam for firm and densely woven fabrics such as denim and corduroy ·...
  • Page 83 Practical stitch seams Vari-overlock seam Stitch: Vari-overlock No. 3 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Overlock foot No. 2 Closed seam · stretchy seam in fine, soft knits such as silk jersey and interlock Sewing ·...
  • Page 84: Flat Joining Seam

    Practical stitch seams Stretch overlock seam/Reinforced overlock seam Stitch: Stretch Overlock No. 13 or Reinforced Overlock No. 19 Needle: universal, ballpoint, or stretch as needed Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1 or Overlock foot No. 2 Closed seam ·...
  • Page 85 Practical stitch hems Hems with practical stitches Preparation · fold and press hem; baste if desired Sewing · sew hem at desired depth (right side) · trim excess fabric (wrong side) Visible hem with Jersey stitch Stitch: Jersey stitch No. 14 Needle: universal, ballpoint, or stretch as needed Thread:...
  • Page 86: Sewing Knits

    Sewing knits Sewing knits Important tips for sewing knit fabrics Start with a new needle · blunt needles can damage knits Use a stretch needle (130/705 H-S) if necessary · the needle point slides easily between the fibers Use a fine sewing thread ·...
  • Page 87 Sewing knits Ribbing with overlock seam Stitch: Vari-overlock No. 3 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Overlock foot No. 2 Ribbing with overlock seam · for all fine cotton, synthetic and mixed fiber knits Preparation ·...
  • Page 88 Zippers Zippers Stitch: Straight stitch No. 1 Needle: size and type suitable for the type of fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Zipper foot No. 4 Needle position: far right or far left Preparation: ·...
  • Page 89 Long stitch Long stitch function This function works with the straight stitch to produce a longer than usual stitch. The machine sews every second stitch when the Long stitch function is activated. The longest stitch possible is 10 mm when the stitch length is set at 5mm. For decorative top stitching, the Long stitch function can be combined with Triple Straight stitch.
  • Page 90: Basting Stitch

    Basting stitch Basting stitch This feature is a stitch rather than a function (such as the long stitch). When this stitch (No. 21) is selected, the machine stitches a straight stitch, sewing every fourth one. The longest stitch possible is 20 mm when the stitch length is set at 5mm.
  • Page 91: Blind Hem

    Blind hem Blind hem Stitch: Blindstitch No. 9 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton, polyester, or silk Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Blindstitch foot No. 5 Blind hem · for invisible hems in medium to heavy cotton, wool and mixed fiber fabrics Preparation ·...
  • Page 92 Elastic, cord Sewing on narrow elastic with Universal stitch Stitch: Universal stitch No. 15 Stitch width: depends on width of elastic Needle: type and size to suit the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No.
  • Page 93 Elastic, cord Sewing on wide elastic Stitch: Running stitch No. 4 or Sewn-out Zig-zag No. 16 or Lycra stitch No. 17 Stitch length: adjust to suit elastic Needle: size and type to suit the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot:...
  • Page 94 Bar tack program Bartack program Stitch: Bartack program No. 24 or Buttonhole bartack No. 25 Needle: size and type to suit the fabric selected Thread: cotton, polyester, or rayon Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1 Bartack program ·...
  • Page 95 Buttonholes Important information on buttonholes Thread tension · thread the finger of the bobbin case · the bobbin tension will be slightly tighter than normal · this gives a slightly rounded appearance to the beads, making the buttonhole more attractive Manual buttonholes ·...
  • Page 96 Buttonholes Corded Buttonhole · gimp cord reinforces buttonholes and enhances their appearance · the loop of the cord should be at the end of the buttonhole most subject to wear or where the button is sewn on · position the work accordingly ·...
  • Page 97 Buttonholes Hooking the cord in the automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A · insert the needle at the beginning of the buttonhole · raise the presser foot · guide the cord under the foot to the right · hook the cord over the pin at the back of the foot ·...
  • Page 98 Buttonholes Straight stitch buttonholes Straight stitch buttonholes are useful as a foundation for satin stitched buttonholes on soft and loosely woven fabrics that fray easily. The buttonhole beads and bartacks of the second (satin stitched) buttonhole will cover the straight stitching. They are also good for stitching bound buttonholes and reinforcing buttonhole openings on leather, vinyl, and felt.
  • Page 99 Buttonholes Automatic buttonholes (all types) Both beads are sewn in the same direction Buttonhole length = buttonhole opening in mm Stretch buttonholes are particularly effective on all knit fabrics because the double overlock stitch used for the beads stretch with the fabric while keeping its shape. Note: The automatic buttonhole foot No.
  • Page 100 Buttonholes Automatic round and keyhole buttonholes Both beads are sewn in the same direction. Buttonhole length = buttonhole opening in mm Stitch: Round buttonholes Nos. 54–55 and keyhole buttonholes Nos. 56–58 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog:...
  • Page 101 Buttonholes Stitch counter buttonholes for all buttonhole types (can not be saved in memory) The first (left) bead is sewn forwards, the second (right) bead is sewn in reverse. Stitch: Buttonholes (all types) Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog:...
  • Page 102 Buttonholes Manual 4/6-step buttonholes (all types) Sewing buttonholes manually is ideal if you only need to sew one; also for repairing existing buttonholes. The number of steps depends on the type of buttonhole. A manually sewn buttonhole cannot be saved. Stitch: any buttonhole Needle:...
  • Page 103 Button sewing-on program Button sewing-on program Stitch: Button sew-on program No. 60 Stitch width: depends on the distance between the holes Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: down (darning position) Presser foot: Button sew-on foot No.
  • Page 104 Eyelets Zigzag Eyelets Stitch: Zig-zag Eyelet No. 61 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton, polyester, or rayon Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1 Zig-zag Eyelet · ideal opening for cords and narrow ribbons ·...
  • Page 105 Darning, mending Elastic Edges Stitch: Zig-zag stitch No. 2 Stitch width: approximately 5mm Stitch length: 1 mm – 1.5 mm Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or polyester Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1 Elastic edges ·...
  • Page 106 Darning, mending Reinforced edges on woven fabrics Stitch: Honeycomb stitch No. 8 or Running stitch No. 4 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: lightweight darning thread Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1 Reinforcing edges ·...
  • Page 107: Automatic Darning

    Darning Automatic darning Stitch: Simple Darning Program No. 22 or Reinforced Darning Program No. 23 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: lightweight darning thread Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A Reverse pattern foot No. 1 Preparation ·...
  • Page 108: Manual Darning

    Darning Manual darning Stitch: Straight stitch No. 1 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: lightweight darning thread Feed-dog: down (darning position) Presser foot: Darning foot No. 9 (optional accessory) Darning holes or worn areas · replaces threads with the lengthwise and the crosswise grains in all fabrics Preparation ·...
  • Page 109 Decorative stitches Decorative stitches Stitch: Any decorative stitch Needle: embroidery needle in a size suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or rayon embroidery Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse Pattern foot No. 1 or Embroidery foot No. 6 or Open embroidery foot No.
  • Page 110: Cross Stitches

    Cross stitches Cross stitches Stitch: Cross stitches Nos. 301–309, 314 or Cross stitch No. 310 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or rayon embroidery Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1 or Open embroidery foot No.
  • Page 111 Quilt stitches Hand-look quilt stitch Stitch: Quilt stitch No. 328, 346–350 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Upper thread: monofilament Bobbin thread: 30 weight, 2 ply cotton Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1 or Walking foot No.
  • Page 112: Decorative Quilt Stitches

    Quilt stitches Decorative quilt stitches Stitch: Quilt stitches Nos. 326–338, 351 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or rayon embroidery Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1 Straight stitch No. 326 ·...
  • Page 113 Quilt stitches Freehand quilting Stitch: Straight stitch No. 1 Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or monofilament Feed-dog: down (darning position) Presser foot: Darning foot No. 9 (optional accessory) or Quilting foot No. 29 (optional accessory) Freehand quilting ·...
  • Page 114 Combining decorative stitches with functions Using decorative stitches with functions Stitch: Any decorative stitch Needle: size and type suitable for the fabric selected Thread: cotton or rayon embroidery Feed-dog: up (sewing position) Presser foot: Reverse pattern foot No. 1 or Embroidery foot No.
  • Page 115 Practical and decorative stitches in memory Practical and decorative stitches in memory · the memory capacity is 1023 individual stitch patterns · the memory has 255 banks · each bank can be sub-divided as desired · most practical and decorative stitches as well as letters and numbers can be combined, programmed, and saved in memory ·...
  • Page 116 Practical and decorative stitches in memory Stitch combination as single repeat · select a memory bank following the directions on the previous page · touch stitch 409 one time · touch stitch 616 two times · on the toolbar, activate Pattern end 2 ·...
  • Page 117 · select a memory bank following the directions above · press the external alphabet button · touch the block letter alphabet · touch the appropriate letters to spell “BERNINA” · on the toolbar, activate Pattern end 1 · begin stitching; the letters will continuously stitch, automatically stopping after the “A”...
  • Page 118 Balance Balance All stitches are tested and adjusted before the machine leaves the factory; however, shipping and transporting can affect the setting of the balance function. Different fabrics, threads and stabilizers can distort the stitch patterns so that they are too long (do not close properly) or too short (have a condensed appearance).
  • Page 119 Index Index Auto buttonholes Honeycomb stitch edges Securing program (straight stitch) Auto round and keyhole Sewing knits 12,13 buttonholes Stitch counter buttonholes Automatic darning program Straight stitch buttonholes Straight stitch with securing Jersey overlock seam program Straight stitch Stretch overlock seam Balance practical/decorative Stretch/Super stretch seam stitches...
  • Page 120 030787.52.04_0401_a165_EN...

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