Bernina Artista 640 User Manual page 44

44 Practical Stitches - Applications
Sewing Knit Fabrics
Start With a New Needle
• blunt needles can damage knits
Use a Stretch Needle (130/705 H-S) if
Necessary
• the needle point slides easily between the
fibers
Use a Fine Sewing Thread
• coarse threads can damage knits and
cause holes when the garment is washed
When Basting, Use a Darning Thread
• very lightweight (80 weight) darning
thread is easier to remove once the seam
is complete
Possible Problems With Sewing Knits
Sew a Test if Necessary
• the elasticity of today's knit fabrics varies
greatly
• adjust basic settings to suit the fabric, the
seam should be as elastic as the fabric
• for greater elasticity use a shorter stitch
length and/or stitch width (only one of
these adjustments may be necessary)
Presser Foot Pressure
• soft, loose knits can wave when sewn:
• reduce the pressure until the seam lies
flat
• the sewing computer must still feed the
fabric properly
Seam Becomes Wavy
• oversew a thread along the edge
• after sewing adjust edges by pulling the
thread to regain the original length of the
fabric and press seam flat
Edges Roll
• do not sew right on the edge but about
5mm in from the edge
• cut off allowance after finished sewing
Seams Which Pull or Stretch
• reinforce seams with a ribbon (e.g.
shoulder ribbon) before sewing
• different stretch ribbons are available.
These can be sewn to give more security
to the seam