Prior To Operation; Quality Of Cut; Body And Hand Position; Basic Saw Cuts - DeWalt dw713 User Manual

ENGLISH
The attention of UK users is drawn to the "woodworking
machinesregulations 1974" and any subsequent amendments.

Prior to operation

• Install the appropriate saw blade. Do not use excessively worn
blades.The maximum rotation speed of the tool must not exceed
that of thesaw blade.
• Do not attempt to cut excessively small pieces.
• Allow the blade to cut freely. Do not force.
• Allow the motor to reach full speed before cutting.
• Make sure all locking knobs and clamp handles are tight. Secure
the workpiece.
• Although this saw will cut wood and many nonferrous
materials,these operating instructions refer to the cutting of wood
only. The sameguide-lines apply to the other materials. Do not cut
ferrous (iron andsteel) materials or masonry with this saw! Do not
use any abrasive discs!
• Make sure to use the kerf plate. Do not operate the machine if the
kerfslot is wider than 10 mm.
Switching on and off (fi g. 21)
A hole (y) is provided in the on/ off switch (l) for insertion of a padlock to
lock the tool.
1. To run the tool, press the on/off switch (l).
2. To stop the tool, release the switch.

Body and hand position

Proper positioning of your body and hands when operating the mitre
saw will make cutting easier, more accurate and safer.
• Never place your hands near the cutting area.
• Place your hands no closer than 150 mm from the blade.
• Hold the workpiece tightly to the table and the fence when cutting.
Keep your hands in position until the switch has been released and
the blade has completely stopped.
• Always make dry runs (without power) before finish cuts so that
you can check the path of the blade.
• Do not cross your hands.
• Keep both feet firmly on the floor and maintain proper balance.
• As you move the saw arm left and right, follow it and stand slightly
to the side of the saw blade.
• Sight through the guard louvres when following a pencil line.

BASIC SAW CUTS

Vertical straight cross cut (fi g. 1, 2, 23)
NOTE: Always use 250 mm saw blades with 30 mm arbor holes to
obtain the desired cutting capacities.
1. Release the mitre lock lever (e) and depress the mitre detent (u) to
release the mitre arm.
2. Engage the mitre latch at the 0° position and tighten the mitre lever.
3. Place the wood to be cut against the fence (c, v).
4. Take hold of the operating handle (a) and depress the head lock up
release lever (cc) to release the head.
5. Press the trigger switch (l) to start the motor.
6. Depress the head to allow the blade to cut through the timber and
enter the plastic kerf plate (s).
7. After completing the cut, release the switch and wait for the saw
blade to come to a complete standstill before returning the head to
its upper rest position.
Vertical mitre cross-cut (fi g. 1, 2, 24)
1. Loosen the mitre lock lever (e) and depress the mitre detent (u).
Move the head left or right to the required angle.
2. The mitre detent will automatically locate at 10º, 15º, 22.5º, 31.62º
and 45º. if any intermediate angle or 50º is required hold the head
firmly and lock by tightening the mitre lock lever.
14
3. Always ensure that the mitre lock lever is locked tightly before
cutting.
4. Proceed as for a vertical straight cross-cut.
WARNING: When mitring the end of a piece of wood with
a small off-cut, position the wood to ensure that the off-
cut is to the side of the blade with the greater angle to the
fence; i.e. left mitre, off-cut to the right - right mitre, off-cut
to the left.
Bevel cuts (fi g. 1, 2, 25)
Bevel angles can be set from 3º right to 48° left and can be cut with the
mitre arm set between zero and a maximum of 45° mitre position right
or left.
1. Loosen the left side fence clamping knob (k) and slide the upper
part of the left side fence (v) to the left as far as it will go. Loosen
the bevel clamp handle (p) and set the bevel as desired.
2. Tighten the bevel clamp handle (p) firmly.
3. Proceed as for a vertical straight cross-cut.

Quality of cut

The smoothness of any cut depends on a number of variables, e.g.
the material being cut. When smoothest cuts are desired for moulding
andother precision work, a sharp (60 tooth carbide) blade and a slower,
evencutting rate will produce the desired results.
WARNING: Ensure that the material does not creep while
cutting; clamp itsecurely in place. Always let the blade
come to a full stopbefore raising the arm. If small fibres of
wood still split out atthe rear of the workpiece, stick a piece
of masking tape on thewood where the cut will be made.
Saw through the tape andcarefully remove tape when
finished.
Clamping the workpiece (fi g. 3)
1. Whenever possible, clamp the wood to the saw.
2. For best results use the clamp (gg) made for use with your saw.
Clamp the workpiece to the fence whenever possible. You can
clampto either side of the saw blade; remember to position your
clampagainst a solid, flat surface of fence.
WARNING: Always use a material clamp when cutting
non-ferrous metals.
Support for long pieces (fi g. 3)
1. Always support llong pieces.
3. For best results, use the extension work support (jj) to extend
thetable width of your saw (available from your dealer as an option).
Support long workpieces using any convenient means such as
saw-horses or similar devices to keep the ends from dropping.
Cutting picture frames, shadow boxes & other four
sided projects (fi g. 26, 27)
TRIM MOULDING AND OTHER FRAMES
Try a few simple projects using scrap wood until you develop a "feel"
for your saw. Your saw is the perfect tool for mitring corners like the one
shown in fig. 26. The joint shown has been made using either bevel
adjustment.
– Using bevel adjustment
The bevel for the two boards is adjusted to 45° each, producing a
90°corner. The mitre arm is locked in the zero position. The wood
ispositioned with the broad flat side against the table and the narrow
edgeagainst the fence.
– Using mitre adjustment
The same cut can be made by mitring right and left with the broad
surfaceagainst the fence.
The two sketches (fig. 26 & 27) are for four side objects only. As the
number of sides changes, so do the mitre and bevel angles. The
chart below gives the proper angles for a variety of shapes, assuming
that all sides are of equal length. For a shape that is not shown in the
chart,divide 180° by the number of sides to determine the mitre or bevel
angle.