Related Manuals for BSA D1 125 c.c. Bantam
Summary of Contents for BSA D1 125 c.c. Bantam
- Page 1 Instruction Manual Models D1 125 c.c. Bantam D3 150 c.c. Bantam Major D5 150 c.c. Bantam Major...
- Page 2 www.ClassicCycles.org This Instruction manual is intended to acquaint the B.S.A. owner with details of the controls, general maintenance and technical data which may be required for normal operation of the machine. It does not contain the information necessary to carry out complete stripping for major overhauls, but if any owner feels he is competent to carry out this type of work, a service manual and an illustrated, priced, spares catalogue for this machine can be...
- Page 3 The Controls.
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Page 4: Table Of Contents
www.ClassicCycles.org CONTENTS Pages AIR CLEANER BRAKES CARBURETTER ... FRONT CHAIN ... REAR CHAIN CLEANING... CLUTCH CONTROLS CYLINDER HEAD AND BARREL REMOVAL ... DRIVING ... DECARBONISING ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT ... FORKS GEARBOX ... HUBS IGNITION TIMING LUBRICATION CHART 18–19 LUBRICATION SYSTEM ROUTINE MAINTENANCE ... REAR SUSPENSION 26–27 RUNNING-IN... -
Page 5: Technical Data
TECHNICAL DATA Engine Number—on top of crankcase below cylinder. Frame Number—at top of steering head tube. ENGINE: Model D1 Model D3 Model D5 Capacity ... 123 c.c 148 c.c 174 c.c Cylinder bore ... 52 mm. 57 mm. 61.5 mm. Stroke 58 mm. -
Page 6: Controls
www.ClassicCycles.org TAKING OVER THE MACHINE Before running the machine make sure that the fuel tank contains the correct mixture of oil and petrol, that the gearbox is properly topped up with oil and that the battery (when fitted) is filled and charged. (See appropriate chapters for filling instructions). Normally these preparations will be carried out by the dealer who is selling the machine and the new owner has only to arrange the controls to his liking and the machine is ready for the road. -
Page 7: Driving
Kickstarter Pedal This is the other pedal on the right-hand side of the engine. Depression of the pedal rotates the engine. OTHER CONTROLS Petrol Tap This is located under the rear end of the tank. To turn on the petrol, pull the serrated button out and lock in position by turning anti-clockwise. -
Page 8: Running-In
www.ClassicCycles.org To Move Off Open the throttle slightly and gently release the clutch lever. As the clutch engages open the throttle a little further. To Change Gear (Up) Disengage the clutch and immediately thereafter raise the gearchange pedal upwards to its limit, at the same time easing the throttle back. Engage the clutch and re-open the throttle together immediately after changing. -
Page 9: Cleaning
After the first 250 miles (400 km.), remove the smaller of the two screwed plugs from the bottom of the crankcase and drain out any oil which may have accumulated there. With the petroil lubrication system employed there is never a considerable quantity of liquid oil in the crankcase, but whatever oil there is should be drained away, and this is preferably done while the engine is warm immediately after a run, as the oil will flow more freely and carry with it any foreign matter which may have... -
Page 10: Ignition Timing
www.ClassicCycles.org To rub dry and caked mud from the frame, tank and mudguards means that the enamel on these parts will be subjected to an abrasive action which will quickly destroy the polish. Soak the mud first, and then float it off with copious supplies of clean water supplied either with a hose or a sponge. -
Page 11: Decarbonising
To check the actual timing remove the sparking plug and turn the engine until the piston is felt to be at top dead centre, by means of a suitable rod inserted through the sparking plug hole, and then turn the engine back until the piston has descended 5/32 in. -
Page 12: Cylinder Head And Barrel Removal
www.ClassicCycles.org Silencer The silencer is fitted with a detachable end cap held in position by a single central nut inside the exhaust opening. This is easily unscrewed and the cap and internal baffle removed for cleaning. Note when replacing the baffle unit that the copper sealing ring is in position before replacing the end cap. - Page 13 If, on the other hand, the rings show signs of heat as evidenced by brown or more highly discoloured patches, they should be replaced by new rings, and in this case particular attention should be paid to the fit of the ends of the rings on their locating pegs in the piston ring grooves, and they should also be checked in the bore to ensure that they have an adequate gap.
- Page 14 www.ClassicCycles.org But if for any reason the big-end bearing has deteriorated as the result of neglect or abuse, it should be replaced and unless you have the necessary experience and facilities for this class of work it is preferable to have it done by an expert repairer. For the benefit of an experienced owner who may wish to dismantle his engine/gear unit, a horizontal section of this is given in Fig.
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Page 15: Sparking Plug
Sparking Plug The sparking plug is of great importance to satisfactory engine performance, and every care should be taken to fit the correct type when replacements are necessary. There is little to be gained by experimenting with different plugs as the make and type fitted by us as official factory equipment is best suited to the requirements of the motor. - Page 16 www.ClassicCycles.org A light deposit due to any of these causes can easily be cleaned off, but if it is allowed to accumulate, particularly inside the body, the plug may spark internally with an adverse effect on engine performance—if, indeed, it does not stop the engine altogether.
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Page 17: Air Cleaner
CARBURATION So long as the engine continues to run satisfactorily the carburetter is best left alone, particularly by the inexperienced rider. The setting employed is suitable for a very wide range of climatic conditions, and it is highly improbable that the rider will need to modify it in any way. -
Page 18: Lubrication Chart
www.ClassicCycles.org MODEL D1 KEY LUBRICATION POINTS (L indicates left-hand side, remainder right-hand side or both sides). R E C O M M E N D E D L U B R I C A N T S (Summer and Winter) Mix one of the following oils with petrol in the ratio 1 : 20 unless otherwise shown. - Page 19 MODEL D3 ENGINE OIL AGES Petroil mixture Gearbox and primary drive GREASE AGES Wheel hubs Steering head Fork legs ... Clutch operation ... Speedometer drive Rear suspension units (plunger) Contact breaker cam pad A FEW DROPS OF ENGINE OIL AGES Saddle nose bolt (except with dual seat) Brake pedal Stand fulcrum...
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Page 20: Rear Chain
www.ClassicCycles.org Primary Chain Lubrication This has a common oil supply with the gearbox and therefore requires no separate attention, beyond the instructions for the gearbox. . 7. Primary drive. Care of the Rear Chain It is a good plan periodically to remove the rear chain, clean it thoroughly in petrol or paraffin, and then gently warm in a mixture of grease and graphite. - Page 21 To adjust, release the locknut and holding it with a spanner unscrew the adjusting pin with a screwdriver one or two turns. Still holding the locknut with a spanner, screw the adjusting pin gently in until it is felt to meet some resistance. Then unscrew it half-a-turn and holding it in this position retighten the locknut.
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Page 22: Gearbox
www.ClassicCycles.org Clutch Dismantling Before dismantling the clutch the primary chain case cover must be removed as described under “Front Chain” on page 17. The clutch springs must be compressed by pressing on the outer plate until the circlip retaining the spring pressure plate can be removed. -
Page 23: Brakes
Rear Chain The rear chain is adjusted by means of screw adjusters in the fork ends at the back of the wheel spindle. First slacken off the knurled rear brake adjusting nut, as the brake rod may prevent free movement of the wheel. It is not necessary to disturb the speedometer drive unit. -
Page 24: Forks
www.ClassicCycles.org Brake Shoe Removal and Replacement After the brake plate has been removed from the wheel, the brake cam lever should be detached and the cam spindle pushed in slightly to allow the shoes to clear the brake plate. Insert a screwdriver between the brake shoes at the fulcrum pin and twist the screwdriver. -
Page 25: Steering Head
Steering Head Adjustment It is first necessary to raise the front wheel clear of the ground—this can best be done by lifting the machine on its stand and putting some small weight on the rear of the saddle or carrier causing the rear wheel to rest on the ground. Test for play by grasping the fork legs and attempting to push them backwards and forwards. -
Page 26: Rear Suspension
www.ClassicCycles.org D3 and D5 Models Remove the aluminium cover holding the handlebar bend in position by unscrewing the four nuts underneath. The steering head locknut will then be exposed and this should be removed. Turn the adjusting sleeve which is underneath by means of a flat piece of metal through its slots until any slackness has been taken up. -
Page 27: Electrical Equipment
Rear Suspension (models D3 and D5) The two suspension units each comprise a telescopic damper unit and a totally enclosed coil spring. The hydraulic dampers require no attention whatsoever. They are sealed during manufacture and if they suffer damage or become ineffective they must be replaced. - Page 28 www.ClassicCycles.org ULLY HARGED EQUIRES HARGING 120°F. 1.270 1.220 100°F. 1.280 1.230 80°F. 1.285 1.235 60°F. 1.295 1.245 40°F. 1.305 1.255 20°F. 1.310 1.260 0°F. 1.320 1.270 —20°F. 1.325 1.275 The readings for each of the three cells should be approximately the same. If one cell gives a reading very different from the others it may be that the electrolyte has been spilled or has leaked from this particular cell or there may be a short-circuit between the plates.
- Page 29 If the unit requires any attention beyond the replacement of contact points and condenser, it is recommended that the complete machine should be sent to an authorised Wico service station. Rectifier (Battery Set only) This is fitted between the toolbox and the battery in a position that ensures air- cooling when the machine is moving.
- Page 30 www.ClassicCycles.org . 12 Double filament bulbs. The best way of checking the setting of the lamp is to stand the motor cycle in front of a light coloured wall at a distance of about 25 feet. If necessary, slacken the bolts securing the headlamp and move the lamp until, with the main driving light switched on, the beam is projected straight ahead and parallel with the ground.
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Page 32: Wiring Diagram (Battery Set)
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