Related Manuals for BSA D7
Summary of Contents for BSA D7
- Page 1 INSTRUCTION MANUAL 175 c.c. Silver Bantam. 175 c.c. Bantam de luxe. Model D7. www.ClassicCycles.org...
- Page 2 This Instruction manual is intended to acquaint the B.S.A. owner with details of the controls, general maintenance and technical data which may be required for normal operation of the machine. It does not contain the information necessary to carry out complete stripping for major overhauls, but if any owner feels competent to carry out this type of work, a service manual and an illustrated spares catalogue for this machine...
- Page 3 Fig. 1. The Controls (Bantam de luxe) (Silver Bantam similar except in detail) www.ClassicCycles.org...
-
Page 4: Table Of Contents
CONTENTS pages AIR CLEANER BRAKES CARBURETTER . . FRONT CHAIN . . REAR CHAIN CLEANING CLUTCH CONTROLS CYLINDER HEAD AND BARREL REMOVAL . . DRIVING . . DECARBONISING ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT . . FORKS GEARBOX . . HUBS IGNITION TIMING LUBRICATION CHART 20, 21 LUBRICATION (ENGINE) ROUTINE MAINTENANCE . -
Page 5: Technical Data
TECHNICAL DATA Engine Number—on top of crankcase below cylinder. Frame Number—at top of steering head tube. Engine: Capacity 174 c.c. Cylinder bore 61·5 mm. Stroke 58 mm. Compression ratio . . 7·4—1 Piston ring gap minimum ·009 in. maximum ·013 in. Sparking plug Plug points gap minimum... - Page 6 TECHNICAL DATA Carburation: Amal Bore . . ⅞ in. Main jet Pilot jet Throttle valve 375/3½ Needle position Needle jet ·1055 General Details: Overall length 79⅜ in. Wheelbase . . 51⅛ in. Ground clearance . . 5½ in. Seat height . . 31 in.
-
Page 7: Controls
TAKING OVER THE MACHINE Before running the machine make sure that the fuel tank contains the correct mixture of oil and petrol, that the gearbox is properly topped up with oil and that the battery is filled and charged. (See appropriate chapters for filling instructions). Normally these preparations will be carried out by the dealer who is selling the machine and the new owner has only to arrange the controls to his liking and the machine is ready for the road. -
Page 8: Driving
Ignition Switch.—This is mounted on the top of the headlamp and has three positions. With the pointer straight ahead, the ignition is switched off, and the switch should always be retained in this position when the engine is stationary, otherwise after several hours (say, over-night) the battery may become discharged. - Page 9 Open the twist grip a small amount only, as excessive opening may prevent easy starting, and push the starter pedal down slowly until resistant is felt; then, without releasing the pressure on the pedal, give a firm downward swing which should set the engine in motion.
-
Page 10: Running-In
To Stop the Engine Select the neutral gear position and close the throttle so reducing the engine speed to “tick-over”. Turn the ignition switch to the “OFF” or central position. Notes on Gear Changing When changing gear, not only should a suitable road speed be selected at which to perform the operation, but the gear change should be timed in such a way that the relative speeds of the engine and gearbox coincide as closely as possible. -
Page 11: Routine Maintenance
The “running-in” process is the most important period in the life of the engine, and the handling it receives during the first 1,000 to 1,500 miles will determine the service which it will provide in return. Running-in should commence at ⅓ to ½ throttle and the throttle opening should be progressively increased as the mileage builds up, until at the end of the running-in period full throttle can be employed. - Page 12 Weekly Check tyre pressures and remove any embedded stones or pieces of metal. Oil brake pedal pivot and all exposed joints and cables. Examine the battery and top up if necessary. More frequent examination is advisable in a hot climate. Check brake adjustment.
-
Page 13: Ignition Timing
Ignition Timing The ignition timing is accurately set within very close limits and there is no manual adjustment for the rider as this has been found quite unnecessary in practice. The contact breaker cam A, (Fig. 2) is keyed on to an extension of the mainshaft, and its position with reference to the piston position is therefore constant. -
Page 14: Decarbonising
To check the actual timing remove the sparking plug and turn the engine until the piston is felt to be at top dead centre, by means of a suitable rod inserted through the sparking plug hole, and then turn the engine back until the piston has descended in. - Page 15 Piston Place the cylinder head and barrel on one side on a bench and examine the piston. It should not be necessary to remove this from the connecting rod, but if it should be desired to do this for any reason, first remove the circlip from one end of the gudgeon pin using a pair of pointed nose pliers or some suitable instrument to lever the circlip out.
-
Page 16: Sparking Plug
Cylinder Head and Barrel Remove all carbon deposit from the cylinder head, bearing in mind again that the aluminium is soft and easily damaged if the decarbonising tool is carelessly applied, and carefully wipe clean to ensure the removal of all loose particles. Most of the carbon deposit likely to have accumulated in the cylinder will be in the exhaust port, and cleanliness at this point is most important as explained earlier. -
Page 17: Carburetter
The plug should be cleaned on an abrasive blast machine and afterwards the sparking surfaces of the electrodes on standard type plugs should be dressed with a fine file in order to restore clean, flat, parallel faces. It is most important that the gap should be re-set to specification, ·020—·025 ins. - Page 18 Fig. 4. The Carburetter www.ClassicCycles.org...
-
Page 19: Air Cleaner
To achieve good petrol economy accurate adjustment of the pilot jet and throttle stop is important. These are adjusted before the machine leaves the Works, but the best setting may vary slightly to suit rider’s requirements or particular localities. The adjustment should be made with the engine warm. - Page 20 175cc BANTAM For a mixture of 1:20, use four filler cap measures to each gallon of petrol. Use six measures for running-in only. For a mixture of 1:16, use five filler cap measures to each gallon petrol. Brand Grease Points Front Forks Engine Gearbox...
- Page 21 KEY LUBRICATION POINTS (L indicates left hand side, remained right hand side or both sides). OIL. (See Chart page 20) Item Page Petroil Mixture Gearbox and Primary Drive 12 & 24 Front Forks . . 12 & 26 GREASE Part Page Clutch Control 12 &...
-
Page 22: Front Chain
TRANSMISSION Front Chain The front chain runs on short fixed centres and adjustment is neither required nor provided. The chain will run for many thousands of miles before examination is required. This operation involves the removal of the primary chain cover (Fig. 5), after the starter and gear change pedals, both of which are mounted on splines and locked by pinch bolts “B”... -
Page 23: Clutch
Clutch Control The clutch adjustment will be found at the left-hand end of the gearbox mainshaft (see Fig. 6) and it consists of an adjusting pin C screwed into the clutch withdrawal sleeve and a locknut B to secure it in position. These items are protected by an outer cover which must be removed before they are accessible. -
Page 24: Gearbox
Clutch Dismantling Before dismantling the clutch, the primary chain case cover must be removed as described under Front Chain on page 22. The clutch springs must be compressed by pressing the outer plate inwards until the circlip retaining the spring pressure plate can be removed. -
Page 25: Brakes
Rear Chain The rear chain is adjusted by means of draw bolts at the fork ends at the back of the wheel spindle. First slacken off the brake adjuster, as the brake rod may prevent free movement of the wheel. It is not necessary to disturb the speedometer drive unit. Slacken off the spindle nuts A (Fig. -
Page 26: Forks
In the case of the rear brake a sleeve nut on the brake rod effects any adjustment necessary, and a few turns are all that are required to improve braking efficiency. The front brake is adjusted by means of the knurled ring nut on the cable stop at the lower end of the forks. -
Page 27: Rear Suspension
Prise out the cap on the top of the fork leg by means of the small hole provided for the purpose, and with the aid of a tubular spanner unscrew the small nut thus exposed. Then remove the large nut which carried the cap. Disconnect the mudguard stay at the lower end of the fork leg, and unscrew the stud. - Page 28 After a few moments the ignition switch can be returned to the normal position. It must be noted however, that as the current is being drawn from the lighting coils, an emergency start can be made only when the lighting switch is in the “off” position. Battery Access to the battery is obtained by slackening the nuts on the upper suspension unit bolts so that the seat can be lifted and pulled away to the rear.
- Page 29 After every 5,000 miles it is necessary to re-lubricate the cam grease pad. This is done by removing the pad and working into it a high-melting point grease. Do not use ordinary grease as this is likely to become fluid under heat and contaminate the contact breaker faces.
-
Page 30: Wiring Diagram
The best way of checking the setting of the lamp is to stand the motor cycle in front of a light coloured wall at a distance of about 25 feet. If necessary, slacken the two screws on the nacelle rim, and move the lamp until, with the main driving light switched on, the beam is projected straight ahead and parallel with the ground. - Page 31 www.ClassicCycles.org...
- Page 32 OEM PARTS & ACCESSORIES Click on links below OEM parts & online schematics (EU) OEM parts & online schematics (US) Cruiser Customizing J&P Cycles Motorcycle Parts Save Up to 45% on Motorcycle Tires JC Whitney Motorcycle Parts & Accessories Motorcycle Boots Motorcycle Helmets Motorcycle Jackets Rocky Mountain ATV/MC...