Bergen Intrepid Magnum Tazer Manual

Helicopter bergen intrepid magnum tazer/ intrepid magnum tazer 800

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Intrepid Magnum Tazer 800.

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Summary of Contents for Bergen Intrepid Magnum Tazer

Page 1 This manual is for the Intrepid Magnum Tazer and Intrepid Magnum Tazer 800.
Page 2 IT IS YOUR EXCLUSIVE RESPONSIBILITY TO PROPERLY BUILD, MAINTAIN AND OPERATE THIS HELICOPTER. Bergen R/C Helicopters has spent considerable time making this product reliable and easy to build, but only the operator can insure that it is safe. Because the...
Page 3 Construction Manual Acknowledgments Bergen R/C Helicopters wishes to thank our friends and customers for their continuing support during the development of the Intrepid Helicopter. The Instruction Manual and illustrations were completed with the input of numerous customers and staff. We wish to recognize Gary Wright, who had been the test pilot and helicopter guru in its early years.
Page 4 The first of its kind, interchangeable modular engineered helicopter to accommodate the beginner to a FAI expert… An idea in 1994 to manufacture an interchangeable, modular helicopter, led to the research and development in 1995. Focusing on quality, engineering details, and price, a prototype was produced. After extensive test flights and fine-tuning, the INTREPID HELICOPTER is now what you see today.
Page 5 90 days after the date of purchase. Bergen R/C will repair or replace (at his option) any defective part, and supply any missing part at no charge to the Purchaser within this period. We make no warranty, express or implied.
Page 6 Bergen R/C Helicopters believes that information contained within its published materials is accurate as of the date of publication, and is not responsible for inadvertent errors or omissions. Bergen reserves the right to make changes and improvements in its products without notice.
Page 8 HARD. It also WILL NOT STOP until you remove the power. Read and understand the instructions that come with your ESC to prevent this from occurring. As with any helicopter purchased from Bergen R/C Helicopters Bergen R/C Helicopters, if you have Bergen R/C Helicopters Bergen R/C Helicopters questions please do NOT hesitate to ask.
Page 9 With this kit you will need some additional items. Radio gear, motor, esc, batteries, and main blades. Ancillaries include electrical connectors, shrink wrap, Velcro. Radio gear includes Transmitter, receiver, servos, gyro, and Rx battery and switch. This heli is designed to be able to use the latest in high speed and power servos such as the 8717 from JR.
Page 10 You’re kit starts out as a box of parts. You will also find some paperwork, including an inventory list and warranty registration. Complete the inventory FIRST, send us back the final sheet signed signifying that you have received everything. If you find something missing, complete the inventory, THEN call us for anything you need.
Page 11 It’s helpful to have all your radio gear handy while building your Tazer, especially the servos, since they are, in some cases, installed into the frames BEFORE putting the frames together. This does not mean you CAN’T do it after, it’s just easier. Obviously, faster servos will make your model feel faster and more responsive, but matched servos are NOT necessary in this NON-CCPM machine.
Page 12 Using the skid bars from Bag 2, center them on the top of the plastic crossovers and drill a 1/8 ” hole, 2 holes in each crossover. To help prevent the “squats” in the future, you can also drill a hole in the center and put an additional countersunk bolt in this location.
Page 13 This is how all your parts should look at this point. The front battery tray is installed using 2 ea 3X8 SHCS in the rear battery tray spacer only, and the same with the lower tray, 2 ea 3x8 SHCS in the rear only.
Page 14 Install the canopy mount, holding the setscrew with your driver to prevent it from turning, then tighten securely using the crosshole. Looking at the canopy mount, you will see one side is flat; the other side has the hole countersunk slightly to aid in installing the canopy thumbscrew. This countersunk side should be installed outward.
Page 15 Here’s where we are now. Install your favorite switch into the switch plate provided. Make sure it is centered for proper on and off operation. Locate your elevator servo and install the rubber grommets that come with it. In bag 9, locate 2 ea plastic servo mount tabs.
Page 16 Press the servo mount tabs into the rubber grommets from the bottom, putting the long leg of the tab into the grommet. Install the servo from inside the frames, with the output spline to the rear. If using JR servos, you can use the screws that came with the servo, threading them into the plastic servo mount tab.
Page 17 Neu Motor, or an Actro. For a list of suggested motors, check out the Bergen Forum. Bolt the motor to the plate with the supplied bolts whether they are 4mm in this case or 3mm for the other motors.
Page 18 The pinion pulley shaft is supported top and bottom by high-speed bearings, and flats are located on the shaft for pulley and pinion placement. There are also 3 collars with setscrews to secure the shaft at the proper height. Your pulley may differ, depending on your motor choice. Orient the shaft so that the long end is to the top.
Page 19 Install the shaft into the bearing in the pulley plate; noting the bearing is on the topside of the plate. Install the third collar with 3X3 setscrews, not loctiting it at this time. Place the whole assy into the frames, forward of the motor mount plate, using 4 ea 3X10 SHCS and 4 ea 231B special washers.
Page 20 Install 2 ea bearings into ea upper side frame. You’re going to make a right and a left frame with the flange of the bearings on the insides of the frames. A suggestion is to CA the bearings into the G10 frames to help ensure a long lasting, slop free system.
Page 21 Place the other frame half over the collective axles. It is suggested to relieve the right hand frame area where the collective servo wire exits. Assemble the elevator yoke next, note the long and short shaft with flats milled onto them. The flats fit into the broached holes of the yoke and are secured with 3X4 SHCS and 3m washers.
Page 22 Place the upper frames on the lowers, installing 2 ea 3X35 SHCS through the upper pinion shaft bearing block to hold the frames in place. Locate the frame spacers, 5 ea threaded 26mm wide and 10 ea 16.5mm wide, and 10 ea 3X30SHCS.
Page 23 Look at the ears on the tail pinion cage. You’ll notice the vertical slots that allow for adjustment of the tail pinion mesh to the main gear. In the shaft you will see a through hole and a divot. Slide the shaft through the rear bearing with the divot to the front.
Page 24 Install the 10mm cross pin to secure the delrin coupler, setting it flush to the outside. Secure the cross pin with a 3X4 setscrew installed into the end of the shaft inside the delrin coupler. Use loctite to secure this screw, ensuring it’s contact with the pin by trying to push the pin out after tightening the setscrew.
Page 25 Install the transmission assy into the upper frames, from the rear is easiest, with 4 ea 3X8 SHCS, installed loosely for now. The following pics have the upper bearing block and elevator yoke removed for clarity. Install the lower mainshaft bearing block, bearing side up, dovetailing it into the transmission cage.
Page 26 Assemble your tail servo components and install the plastic servo mount tabs in from the top side of the servo. Install the servo in from the right side with the wheel to the front as shown, using your servo screws or 2.5X10 SHCS and washers. Begin installing the boom clamps, as pairs, starting with the front one by installing a 3X35 SHCS through the top hole, through the boom clamp set, and through the other frame,...
Page 27 The gyro mount and front slope block are next. The gyro mount is attached using 2 ea delrin blocks with 3 holes in the top. Not the orientation of the holes. Use 2 ea 3X8 SHCS and 1 ea 3X8 FHCS to attach the block to the gyro mount, leaving them slightly loose.
Page 28 The constant driven tail system in bag 5 consists of 2 aluminum hubs, 2 machined delrin gears, the autorotation hub and main shaft. Look at the 2 sides of the main gear. One side is chamfered, this is the top, the other side has a sharp edge, this is the side that the large hub sits inside of.
Page 29 Install 2 of the screws opposite each other, loosely for now, then install the remainder, snugging them down slowly a little at a time to again prevent warping the gear. Thread the 2 ea 3X10 SHCS into the two sides of the hub, but do not tighten them.
Page 30 Put a dab of grease in the underside of the crown gear hub, place the 10X16X1 washer in it, then dab a little more grease onto the washer. During an autorotation the crown gear hub is turning while the autohub is not, this grease is just a little lubrication to help with that interface.
Page 31 Place the crown gear and hub onto the auto hub, slide the assembly into place under the lower main shaft bearing block and drop the mainshaft through the crown gear hub and the autohub. This next task may require a flashlight….Locate the divot on the main shaft through the setscrew hole in the crown gear hub.
Page 32 With the mainshaft in place to align the upper and lower bearing blocks, go ahead and tighten them now. Pull up on the mainshaft, seating the crown gear hub against the lower mainshaft bearing. Push down on the lower split collar and tighten, using your hardened Allen driver to prevent stripping the screw head.
Page 33 Push down on the pinion/cage, tightening the mesh until you have ZERO backlash AND the system runs smooth. Pushing down on the cage may require some tamping with an allen driver as the frames are tight against the cage, but it will move and will tighten up the mesh. Now tighten the bolt going through the bearing block and cage.
Page 34 Push the pinion towards the main gear and tighten the upper bolts securing the bearing block. You’re looking for a tight, no backlash mesh, but the system should still spin freely. Tighten the bolts securing the pinion plate to the frames, again ensuring that the gear mesh is nice and tight, but freely spinning.
Page 35 Install 4 ea medium balls onto the inner ring, again with loctite. While doing this, ensure that the eyeball bearing in the center remains free to turn and twist. Slide the completed swashplate onto the mainshaft and snap the elevator yoke ball links onto two of the outer balls. The washout unit assembly starts with the washout arms.
Page 36 If necessary to space the arm away from the hub, place 2 brass washers on the bolt between the bearing and the hub. Slide the washout unit on to the mainshaft and snap the radius links onto 2 of the balls on the inner swashplate.
Page 37 The angle is now "advanced". This gives a less stable hover, but more cyclic action. The porkchops are handed, meaning they only snap onto the ball in one direction, seen in the photo. All of this is also called swashplate timing, and in the higher end radios can be adjusted electronically in a specific mode or by mixing in some aileron with elevator, and elevator with aileron.
Page 38 Install 2 ea short balls in the “X” arm, on the opposite side from the long balls. Install 2 ea short balls in each aileron bellcrank, noting that you are making a right and a left. Another view of the aileron bellcranks. Install the 5 X 8 X 2.5 Flanged bearings, one in each “Popsicle stick”...
Page 39 Using loctite, thread the bolt into the popsicle stick, then tighten the jamnut against the popsicle stick. By loosening the jamnut and tightening or loosening the bolt, you can adjust the tension on the bearing, giving a free spinning AND slop free bellcrank. Then again tighten the jamnut.
Page 40 Install the left Popsicle stick onto the upper collective axle, sliding the bearing onto the elevator yoke short shaft. Install a 3X4 SHCS into this short shaft, securing the rear of the popsicle stick. Install a 3X8 SHCS and 3M washer into the collective axle. Use loctite on both screws.
Page 41 Set the bearing tension by holding the jamnut and tightening or loosening the bolt, then tighten the jamnut against the Popsicle stick. The “X” arm should spin freely with no slop. Install the aileron servo into the Aileron servo mount. Install the rubber grommets and eyelets that come with the servo from the bottom side.
Page 42 Secure the servo with the JR self-tapping screws or 2.5X10 mm SHCS and 2.5 washers. Install the aileron servo assy in between the popsicle sticks and secure with 4 ea 3X8 SHCS threading into the servo mount. It is only necessary to put washers under the rear bolts. Instead of loctite, we suggest using CA (superglue) to secure these bolts.
Page 43 The shim set includes 2 ea of .008, 2 ea of .015, 2 ea of .040, and 2 ea snap rings. If you want to fly hard 3D, then install one of each size shim on to the head axle. For softer flying, such as a camera ship, then try just the .040 and the .008 shim on each side.
Page 44 There are 2 sizes of bearings associated with the seesaw tube. The 4X10X4 bearing (4mm ID) goes into the end of the tube. Using the 3X10X4 bearings (3mm ID) make 2 assemblies of a 3X8 SHCS and 2 3mm brass washers. Insert the seesaw into the head with the milled slot facing the direction shown in the picture.
Page 45 Install the opposite side bearing assy in the same manner, drawing it in while tightening the bolt. Now tap it in flush, effectively setting both sides flush with the headblock. Install 2 ea 3X5 panhead screws, with loctite, just above each bearing as a retainer.
Page 46 Install a short ball on the long leg of each endcap, with loctite. Slide a blade grip with radial bearings installed onto each side of the head axle. Locate the 3 piece thrust bearings and 2 ea 5X16 SHCS and “Special”...
Page 47 Install the ballcage with the open face inwards, then install the thrust washer with the SMALL ID, grooved side inward. Install both 5X16 SHCS bolts and washer with loctite and tighten, using 2 allen wrenches tightening against each other. Ensure the blade grips spin freely.
Page 48 Install the assembled bell/hiller mixer by threading the bolt into the middle hole on the pitch arm (recommended). This hole gives a 0 Delta offset, the other two holes give a positive or negative delta offset for those so inclined to experiment. Set the tension on the bearings, tightening the bolt to give a free spinning yet slop free movement, then tighten the nut on the back.
Page 49 Your completed head should look like this. Place the rotorhead onto the mainshaft, locating it with the 3X20 SHCS as a “jesus” bolt. Do NOT tighten this bolt just yet… tighten the 2 ea 3X16 SHCS pinch bolts, alternating sides, tightening a bit at a time. These bolts are what actually hold the head to the mainshaft, the “jesus”...
Page 50 Roughly center the flybar in the seesaw and lightly tighten the flybar arms with 3X3 setscrews, while leveling the flybar arms to each other by sighting across the head. Measure both sides of the flybar, ensuring they are EXACTLY the same, moving it in and out as necessary.
Page 51 Measure the distance between the flybar arm and the paddles, making sure both sides are identical. Also ensure that the paddles are level to the flybar arms AND to each other by sighting across the head. This is how your heli should look at this point, But we still have a ways to go yet…☺...
Page 52 Now’s a good time to mount your gyro, we suggest the use of Zeal tape over the stock double sided tape for enhanced vibration dampening. Zeal tape is available from us at Bergen R/C. cut a small square just a bit smaller than the gyro sensor and stick it securely to the gyro.
Page 53 Setting up your helicopter begins in your RADIO. With our Pure Mechanical, single servo system, we use NO mixes. So to begin, set your radio to an S-1, H-1, or single servo swashplate function. Make sure all subtrims are at 0, all mixes are turned OFF. ATV’s or travel adjusts should be set as follows;...
Page 54 Here you can see the numbers (Blackened with a sharpie). The elevator servo wheel is set up slightly different in that you want to center it from the “X” arm using a straight edge. Using a small wheel, see how the straightedge passes through the center of the “3 pack”, the servo screw hole AND the center of the “X”...
Page 55 The black tic marks on the servo wheels show which holes we suggest using for proper setup in a true push pull system. Notice that they are OFFSET slightly from straight vertical, or in the case of the elevator, the angle from the “X” arm. On the aileron servo large wheel we ARE going straight across….
Page 56 With power turned back on, reinstall the servo wheels onto the servos, ensuring they are on straight again, and secure with the servo wheel screw. If the output gear of your servo is metal, then it is HIGHLY recommended to use loctite on this screw. Next up are all the pushrods for the control system.
Page 57 The linkage from the triple AND single bellcrank on the opposite side to the popsicle sticks use the 40mm rod and are 70mm long center to center or 77mm end to end. Make sure the Popsicle sticks are exactly horizontal with power on and collective at exactly half. The aileron servo to aileron bellcrank rods use the 85mm rod and are 101mm center to center or 108mm end to end.
Page 58 From the “X” arm to the elevator arm use rods 50mm long, making them 70mm center to center or 77mm end to end. This arm should also be exactly straight up and down. From the washout arms to the Flybar arms, use the rods 30mm long, making them 47mm center to center or 54mm end to end.
Page 59 For Pitch setup purposes we offer a flybar lock w/flag to lock the flybar level to the rotor head. Which is used in conjunction with a pitch gauge, such as this one available from Miniature Aircraft USA. With the collective stick at half, verify that the pitch on the blades is at 0 degrees.
Page 60 A head button is available and is installed using 2 ea 3X12 SHCS and loctite. For any wire connection such as the one with a Futaba 401 gyro system, we recommend using heat shrink tubing to secure the connection. Included in your kit are some “special” tye wraps, used to secure the tail servo wire above the main gear as shown.
Page 61 It may be necessary to CA (super glue) the tye wrap to the head of the bolt, then wrap it around the wire and trim the tail off. Secure the connection to the frames with a piece of double sided tape. There’s plenty of room on the battery tray for radio gear and battery, I used sticky backed Velcro small tye wraps from FMP for nice clean wiring setup.
Page 62 Next step is to build the tail, from bag 10A and 10B. These instructions are for the Tazer 800 using a longer boom, etc. Look for the Standard Tazer tail instructions in the next step. Look closely at the ends of the TT shafts; you will find a silver dot. Mark and cut off 1”...
Page 63 The “Dogbone” is the very front of the shaft, and plugs into the delrin coupler of the front xmsn. Slide the cross pin into the ball end of the dogbone and secure with a 3X4 setscrew from INSIDE INSIDE INSIDE INSIDE the dogbone as shown, with loctite.
Page 64 Slide the tail gearbox input shaft into the end of the long TT shaft and secure with a collar and ONE 3X3 setscrew. You now have a complete TT assy, however the next steps are VERY important to a reliable TT drive.
Page 65 Remove the 2 ea 3X4 SHCS bolts from the sides of the tail gearbox, and lubricate the o’rings of the bearing carrier. Locate the end of the tail boom with the 2 drilled holes and insert the TT drive system into the boom, pushing it ALL the way in and lining up the holes in the tail boom with the threaded holes in the tail gearbox.
Page 66 Building the Standard or Tazer 700 tail system will require a couple of additional tools, a 12” ruler and a wooden dowel 3/8” dia and 33” long. Windex is needed to install the Torque Tube bearing carriers. We use as it makes a good lubricant THEN totally evaporates, locking the bearing carriers into place in the boom.
Page 67 Use the dowel to push the bearing carrier all the way into the boom to the rear or 22” mark. Lubricate the fwd bearing carrier with Windex and install it into the boom as well. Push this bearing carrier in up to the 10” or front mark. While working on the next step, the Windex will evaporate, allowing the rubber o- rings to secure the bearing carriers in place in the Boom.
Page 68 Assemble the dogbone by inserting the pin, centering it, and securing it with a 3X4 SS and loctite, installed from inside the dogbone. Insert the dogbone into one end of the arrow shaft, and slide one collar over both pieces. Install 2 ea 3X3 SS, leaving one hole open. Using a #46 drill bit, In the hole left open in the collar, drill THROUGH the arrow shaft and INTO the dogbone, leaving a divot.
Page 69 Reassemble and install a 3X3 ss with loctite in the hole with the divot, seating the setscrew in the divot. Remove the other 2 setscrews, loctite, and reinstall in the collar. Insert the TT in from the front end of the boom and through the bearing carriers.
Page 70 Again using the open hole in the collar, drill through the TT and into the input shaft with the #46 drill bit, creating a divot. Again disassemble and inspect the divot to ensure it’s deep enough for the setscrew to set into it. Reassemble the parts, and loctite a 3X3 setscrew into the hole with the divot, then the remaining 2 setscrews.
Page 71 Insert the tail boom into the boom clamps at the rear of the heli; pushing it ALL the way in, ensuring the dogbone has engaged the delrin coupler. The end of the boom should go past the most forward boom clamp.
Page 72 Use JB weld to glue the ends into the boom supports. Ensure that the ends are parallel to each other. Secure one end to the bottom rear of the lower frames with 2ea 3X12 SHCS, 3m washers, and 3m Locknuts. Secure the rear of the boom supports with a 3X35 SHCS, 2 ea 3m washers, and a 3m locknut, but don’t tighten the bolt just yet.
Page 73 Note the orientation of the fin, place the 4 bolts in the 4 holes and slide 2 of the boom clamps onto the bolts. Place the fin and clamps onto the boom and slide the remaining 2 clamps onto the bolts. Make sure the vertical fin is exactly vertical and tighten the 4 ea 3m locknuts onto the bolts.
Page 74 The bearings should sit down in the bellcrank with only the flange above the surface. It may be necessary to sand the spacer down slightly to achieve this. Install the special bolt, a 3X12 w 6mm shoulder then place 2 ea brass washers on the bolt. Install a medium ball on to the bellcrank, for most gyro applications, the inner hole gives the proper travel amount.
Page 75 The tail pitch slider is a preassembled unit; slide it onto the output shaft, making sure to insert the ball into the delrin cup. Operate the mechanism by moving the bellcrank by hand making sure the operation is smooth and free. The shaft may have a coating on it from the precision grinding process, and can be cleaned off with formula 409.
Page 76 Install the tail hub onto the tail output shaft with ONE, and only ONE 3X4 setscrew and loctite. The tip of the setscrew MUST sit into the divot on the output shaft. Only one setscrew IS more secure than 2 setscrews 180 degrees apart in this application.
Page 77 The tail blades grips and associated hardware must be installed in the proper order for proper operation, note the 10mm spacer installed BEFORE the thrust bearings. Also be sure to grease the ball cage of the thrust bearings. One of the thrust bearing washers has a smaller inner diameter than the other, you can identify it by placing them onto the tail rotor hub, noting which one has more play.
Page 78 Locate the “special” tail links. These do require a slight modification in trimming off the ribs off of each side and cutting them down to 17mm long. Thread the links all the way onto the eyelets, then snap the ends onto the balls installed on the pitch slider.
Page 79 The tail blades included in your kit are from KB Dream designs and may vary slightly in design and color from the picture. The tail blades are installed with a 1mm washer on both sides. It maybe a tight fit, that’s Install tail blade grip bolt and secure with 3m locknut.
Page 80 Tighten the nut sufficiently to prevent the bolt from turning and thread the ball link onto the stud. Assemble the other end the same way, then glue ONE end on to the carbon fiber rod. Snap this end onto the tail servo wheel ball, making sure the ball is pointed straight down with power on.
Page 81 Adjust the length of the pushrod ONLY to center the pitch slider on the output shaft, between the gearbox and the tail rotor hub. Adjust the two plastic links so the arm on the tail blade grip is straight out, centered on the ss hole in the hub.
Page 82 Install each main blade with a 4X25 SHCS w/18mm shoulder and 4mm Locknut. Note the leading edge direction. We suggest tightening the blades so that they will NOT move if the heli is laid on it’s side and shaken. If your blades require spacers (12mm root), then install one spacer on top AND one on the bottom of the blade.
Page 83 Also mark around the inside perimeter, leaving only a ¼” or less of a lip. Rough cut out the area with a dremel tool cut off disk. Then use a large sanding drum to finish the cutout areas. The “ears” on the top are required to clear the pushrods going up to the swashplate.
Page 84 Solder deans connectors or whatever your favorite choice is per the manufacturers instructions, putting the female plugs on the batteries, and building a “Y” harness out of 2 males and 1 female plug. This is a high powered heli, running either 10s or 12s, so you’ll need an electronic speed controller (ESC) that can handle the power.
Page 85 On the battery side, install your connector, being sure to get the correct polarity, and install a bonding strap to the negative or black side of the plug. Install an eyelet that a 3mm bolt can fit through. Solder female “bullet” connectors to the 3 wires on the motor side of the ESC, using heatshrink to keep the connectors separated.
Page 86 Connect the bonding wire to one of the bolts going into either of the aluminum plates. Make a short bonding wire to connect the two aluminum plates together. This is necessary to prevent any static buildup and discharge from the belt drive system. Connect the ESC to the motor with the bullet connectors.
Page 87 If you want to run the batteries side by side, then use the additional supplied frame spacers to make the retainers wide enough to allow the batteries to slide in. The final option, with large 6s2p packs, side by side, is to use washers under the retainers.

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Intrepid magnum tazer 800