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Bergen Observer EB Construction Manual

R/c helicopters
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WARNING!
The radio controlled model helicopter built from this kit is not a toy and is not meant for
children. It is a flying machine capable of causing property damage and serious bodily
harm to both the operator/assembler and/or spectator if not built and operated correctly
and responsibly. Rotating components, especially the main rotor blades, are an ever-
present danger.
Model helicopters operate differently than model cars and airplanes. Helicopters by their
nature are not positively stable, meaning that even if properly assembled and adjusted,
helicopters will not recover from an unwanted flight attitude, nor will they hold any
particular orientation without constant control inputs from the pilot.
IT IS YOUR EXCLUSIVE RESPONSIBILITY TO PROPERLY BUILD, MAINTAIN
AND OPERATE THIS HELICOPTER.
Bergen R/C Helicopters has spent
considerable time making this product reliable and easy to build, but only
the operator can insure that it is safe. Because the safe operation of this
helicopter is beyond the control of the Manufacturer and distributor, the
owner/operator assumes all risk of use.

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Summary of Contents for Bergen Observer EB

  • Page 1 IT IS YOUR EXCLUSIVE RESPONSIBILITY TO PROPERLY BUILD, MAINTAIN AND OPERATE THIS HELICOPTER. Bergen R/C Helicopters has spent considerable time making this product reliable and easy to build, but only the operator can insure that it is safe. Because the safe operation of this helicopter is beyond the control of the Manufacturer and distributor, the owner/operator assumes all risk of use.
  • Page 2 Construction Manual Acknowledgments Bergen R/C Helicopters wishes to thank our friends and customers for their continuing support during the development of the Intrepid Helicopter. The Instruction Manual and illustrations were completed with the input of numerous customers and staff. We wish to recognize Gary Wright, who had been the test pilot and helicopter guru in its early years.
  • Page 3 Introduction The first of its kind, interchangeable modular engineered helicopter to accommodate the beginner to a FAI expert… An idea in 1994 to manufacture an interchangeable, modular helicopter, led to the research and development in 1995. Focusing on quality, engineering details, and price, a prototype was produced.
  • Page 4 Purchaser. Any advice supplied by any representative of Bergen R/C pertaining to any particular application is given freely as an opinion and is not meant to bind Bergen R/C or in any other way modify this warranty.
  • Page 5 Bergen R/C Helicopters believes that information contained within its published materials is accurate as of the date of publication, and is not responsible for inadvertent errors or omissions. Bergen R/C reserves the right to make changes and improvements in its products without notice.
  • Page 6 The EB stands for Extended Boom, allowing the use of 810 mm rotor blades. There are a few things we recommend in the assembly and use of your Observer EB, and we’ll spell those out as we go, but for now, our first recommendation is a good quality set of hardened allen drivers. We have found that standard allen wrenches are too soft, and you run the risk of rounding off the inside hex of the SHCS that we use in the assembly of the helicopter.
  • Page 7 Start with the landing gear. Assemble the skids and cross bars as shown, leaving them loose for now. Locate the landing gear skid bars in bag #1, use them to locate and drill 2 holes in each cross bar. Center the skid bar fore and aft, as well as side to side, and use a #30 or 1/8 drill bit to drill through the cross bar.
  • Page 8 Install the pull start using 4 ea 4X12 SHCS. Again, loctite isn’t needed, however if you feel the need, you can use a drop of CA glue in place of loctite. Note the orientation of the pull start handle, on the same side as the carburetor insulator block.
  • Page 9 Tap the high side down carefully, using a small hammer, hitting flat on the tops of the fan blades, then checking the runout. It usually takes only a sharp tap to bring it in. Now torque down on the bolt holding the fan to the engine.
  • Page 10 When you get all 4 SHCS installed, warm the entire shroud to relieve any stress that could cause cracks in the future. Install 4 ea 3M locknuts on the SHCS. DO NOT over torque these nuts; you will crack the ears on the first run of the engine.
  • Page 11 Install the rear bulkhead using 4 ea 3X16 SHCS and 3M locknuts, then install the landing gear skid bars, front and rear, using 4 ea 3X8 FHCS. Assemble the rear battery tray with battery tray spacers, using 6 ea 3X8 FHCS and loctite. Install the battery tray into the frames using 4 ea 3X8 SHCS and loctite.
  • Page 12 Install the lower frame assembly onto the landing gear, using 4 ea 3X16 SHCS and 3M locknuts. Center and rotate the skid tubes to your liking, then drill a #50 pilot hole in the boss, into the aluminum skid tube, on the underside of the gear and install the 2 ea 3X8 self tapping screws. I typically install these into the rear cross bar, leaving the front crossbar able to flex.
  • Page 13 Locate the delrin bushings, steel inserts and 4X16 SHCS. Note the chamfer on the steel insert. Install with the chamfer toward the head of the bolt. Install the delrin bushings onto the fan hub using loctite, and tighten securely. Assemble the clutch components, clutch, clutch bell, triple bearing block, and retaining collar w/3X3 setscrews.
  • Page 14 Press the flanged bearings into the upper frames, making certain to seat the flange down. Be sure to make a right and a left, with the flange on the inside of the frames. Put a drop of CA glue around the outer edge of the bearings to secure them in place, being careful not to get any glue in the bearing itself.
  • Page 15 Insert the elevator yoke into the upper frames, with the longer of shaft on the right side of the helicopter. Find the 2 main shaft bearing blocks. Note the cutout portion on the lower bearing block. Install the lower main shaft bearing block, using 2 ea 3X35 SHCS, note the orientation of the bearing, facing up.
  • Page 16 Secure the cross pin with a 3X4 setscrew threaded into the rear of the shaft, using loctite. Make doubly sure the setscrew secures the crosspin. Insert the shaft into the rear of the transmission cradle through the bearing, and slide the brass tube onto the shaft. Install the tail pinion onto the shaft and slide the shaft all the way in, through the forward bearing.
  • Page 17 Install the autorotation hub into the main gear with the longer portion of the hub facing up. Use 4 ea 3X8 Low Head Cap Screws and loctite to secure. Insert the main shaft down through the upper bearing block, install the 3 pieces of the thrust bearing and 1 split collar on the shaft with the “ring” facing up toward the bearing, slide the shaft down a little farther and install the second split collar, below the elevator yoke, with the “ring”...
  • Page 18 Gather the 26 mm threaded frame spacers and 29 mm non-threaded frames spacers with 4 ea 3X40 SHCS. Secure the rear of the frame sets together by inserting the bolt through the frames and spacer, into the threaded spacer in the middle. Install remaining bolts and frame spacers.
  • Page 19 Set the tail gear pinion mesh by loosening the thru bolt holding the lower main shaft bearing block and transmission cage in place, and loosening the 4 bolts at the rear of the transmission cage. Tap down on the front of the cage at the point shown until you get a smooth running mesh with little or no backlash. The “step”...
  • Page 20 The swashplate is next; install 4 ea medium balls on the inner ring, using loctite. After installing these balls, make sure the eyeball in the center of the swashplate moves freely. If not, check that the threads of the balls haven’t gone in too deep, pushing on the eyeball. Remove some of the threaded end, if necessary.
  • Page 21 Insert the 3X7X3 flanged bearings into the arms, 2 ea into each arm. Insert the 3X16 SHCS with 6M shoulder through the bearings and put 1 ea 3M brass washer on the bolt. Note the orientation. Thread the bolt into the washout hub, then install a 3X4 setscrew in the same hole from the opposite side. Set the tension on the bearings by tightening the bolt carefully until the arm spins freely, but there is no side to side slop.
  • Page 22 Assemble the control system; starting with the collective arms (popsickle sticks), aileron bellcranks, and “X” arm. Install the short balls in all of the pieces, using loctite, making a right and left aileron bellcrank as shown. Install the 5X8X2.5 flanged bearings into the pieces, putting 1 ea into the popsickle sticks, and 2 ea into each bellcrank.
  • Page 23 Install the left side popsickle stick, matching the broach in the popsickle stick to the flats on the collective axle, using a 3X4 SHCS and 3M washer at the front into the shaft for the elevator yoke, and a 3X8 SHCS and 3M washer into the collective axle.
  • Page 24 Install the triple bellcrank on the left side, on the collective axle, matching the broach with the flats on the axle. The single bellcrank is installed on the right side, on the collective axle. Use 2 ea 3X8 SHCS with 3M washers and loctite.
  • Page 25 When both bearings are installed, center the seesaw tube by tapping on the head of the bolts. The seesaw tube should pivot freely. Install the seesaw tube endcaps, pushing them on until flush with the end, and securing with a 3X4 setscrew and loctite, in the inner hole. The setscrew should engage the slot on the tube.
  • Page 26 You may need to use the blade grips to push the circlips into place, just make sure they are seated all the way around. Now slide the blade grips onto the head axle, all the way to the circlip. Locate your thrust bearings for the blade grips. Notice that one of the races has a larger inner diameter than the other.
  • Page 27 With both blade grips installed, use 2 allen wrenches to tighten the blade grip bolts. Tighten securely, but there is no need to overtorque them. Loosely install 2 ea 3X25 SHCS into lower boss of the head. These are the “pinch” bolts. Install the Head Button, if optioned, using 2 ea 3X12 SHCS and loctite.
  • Page 28 Install 2 ea short balls on the mixers. Note that one end of the arm is longer than the other, and orientation of the balls. In this instance the longer end is to the right. Install the assembly onto each blade grip using 2 ea 3X6 SHCS and loctite.
  • Page 29 Flybar installation is next. Insert the flybar through the seesaw tube bearings; install a 4mm special washer on each side, then the flybar arms. Center the flybar, measuring both sides from the flybar arm to the end, with the flybar arm pushed all the way to the seesaw tube.
  • Page 30 Install the fuel tank, starting with locating where the fuel fittings will be installed in the tank. Slide the tank under the battery tray and mark where you want the fittings. Drill a #16 hole in the tank at the spots marked. Install a single end fitting on the top of the tank for the vent line, and one on the side for the return line.
  • Page 31 Install the tank under the rear tray and secure with the 2 long tye-wraps provided, running the tye-wraps through slots in the tray. On the carburetor you will find an idle adjustment screw, remove it and throw it away. Install the throttle arm on the carb, in the direction shown.
  • Page 32 Snap the air filter cover in place and secure with the slide on the bottom. Now install the fuel lines from the tank to the carb. The fitting at the front of the carb is the fuel in fitting; the rear fitting is the return line to the tank.
  • Page 33 Begin assembling the camera mount by installing the Front Frame Block and Arm Mounts to the “flying squirrel”, noting the orientation, with 8 ea 3X16 SHCS and 3M locknuts. Don’t tighten these just yet. Place an extension arm on one side, and install 4 ea 3X35 SHCS through the Front Frame Blocks, then place the opposite extension arm on the bolts and thread 4 ea 3M locknuts on the bolts.
  • Page 34 Install 1 ea thrust bearing block w/4 ea 3X8 SHCS and 1 ea standard bearing block w/2ea 3X35 SHCS and 2 ea 3M locknuts onto the front end of the extension arms. Note the orientation of the blocks and bearings. The thrust bearing block is installed on the bottom, with the hump down. Leave the bolts loose for now.
  • Page 35 Locate the three round spacers and place on the three shafts; the lower ones go on the inside of the blocks, the upper one sits on top of the upper G10 block. Install the height adjustment arms onto the shafts, putting a 3X30 SHCS through the arm and the hole in the shaft, securing with a 3M locknut.
  • Page 36 Push the assembly all the way up, push the split collar down on top of the thrust bearing and tighten the split collar bolt, NO loctite. The camera mount should spin freely. Install a large pulley onto the shaft, installing a 3X20 thru bolt and 3M locknut. You may need to tap up on the whole assembly to get the holes to line up, then carefully tap it back down.
  • Page 37 Install the small pulley/servo wheel onto the servo, then place one of the servo assemblies in between the extension arms, angling it in while installing the pulley belt. Push the servo mount in until the thru holes line up and install 2 ea 3x35 SHCS, 4 ea 3M washers, and 2 ea 3m locknuts.
  • Page 38 To get the full 360 degree rotation with out winding up the servo wires, try this little tip. With a 12” long servo extension wire, remove the male plug by lifting the tabs and pulling the connectors out. Remove the 2 thru bolts in the long vertical shaft, one in the pulley and one in the turret arm. Feed the wire without the plug up through the shaft.
  • Page 39 Begin assembly of the tail system with the “dogbone”. Insert the crosspin and secure with a 3X4 setscrew from inside the dogbone with loctite. Locate 2 ea arrow shafts, they are aluminum, and you will see a silver dot on each end. Cut 1” off of each end of both arrow shafts.
  • Page 40 Install the “dogbone” assembly in the front end of the short arrow shaft, again with a collar and only 1 ea 3X3 setscrew to secure. Using a #50 drill bit, pick one hole in each collar and carefully drill through the arrow shaft into the underlying shaft or dogbone, creating a divot in the shaft.
  • Page 41 Assemble the tail pitch bellcrank by installing a 3X7X3 flanged bearing in one side, the aluminum spacer, Then the opposite bearing. Insert the 3X16 with 6M shoulder SHCS through the bearings and spacer, with the delrin cup on top, and add a 3M brass washer on to the bolt as a spacer. Thread this into the pitch arm on the gearbox, but do not tighten yet.
  • Page 42 Slide the pitch slider onto the shaft engaging the ball into the delrin cup at the same time. Locate the Heavy Duty tail hub and 1 ea 3X4 setscrew. Note the divot on the output shaft. Install the hub onto the shaft lining up the hole in the hub with the divot in the shaft, secure with the 3X4 setscrew and loctite.
  • Page 43 Locate the 4M shoulder bolts and eyelets. Slip the eyelet onto the shoulder bolt and install on the blade grip with loctite, being careful not to get loctite into the eyelet. It has to rotate on the shoulder bolt to operate properly.
  • Page 44 These pictures show installation of V-Blades tail blades as an option. Others may be used and install the same way. Just make sure they are balanced, and should be no longer than 110mm, the minimum is 95mm. Your kit may come with plastic white tail blades. Use a spacer on each side of the tail blades, inserting into the blade grip, then installing the tail special bolt with 3M locknut.
  • Page 45 Install the Horizontal Fin using 2 ea 3X8 SHCS with a drop of CA glue in place of loctite. Your fins may be solid or have lightening holes in them. The vertical fin is mounted using 2 sets of boom clamps and 4 ea 3X35 SHCS inserted into the fin, then 1 half of the clamp over the bolts.
  • Page 46 The tail servo mount is installed between the vertical and horizontal fins using 2 sets of boom clamps, and 4 ea 3X30 SHCS and 4 ea 3M locknuts. It’s position will be adjusted after installing the servo. The push rod can be installed also, but will need to be adjusted later as well. Use the 140mm pushrod. Install the boom assembly into the boom clamps at the rear of the frames, pushing it all the way in to engage the dogbone into the delrin cup.
  • Page 47 The pushrods are made up of 2.5mm SS rods with threads rolled onto them and the famed Rocket City Links threaded onto the rods. There are a lot of rods and a lot of links. Most rods are in pairs. Start with these and find the most logical fit for the pushrods.
  • Page 48 DS 811 servos used for picture taking only. We DO NOT recommend them for use in your Observer EB. Begin installing servos, starting with the throttle servo. Snap the plastic servo mounts into the slots in the frames and install the servo, spline to the front.
  • Page 49 The collective servo is installed between the frames, with the spline to the rear. The aileron servo is installed on the mount between the collective arms, spline to the rear. Install tail rotor servo into rear mount plate with spline forward. The following is the setup we use for JR radio systems.
  • Page 50 When you have each wheel marked, put a ball on a 2X10 Phillips screw, thread a 2M nut up to the ball, then screw the assembly into the wheel at the marked hole. Thread another 2M nut on the backside of the wheel securing with loctite. Repeat for all the other wheels, with the throttle and tail servo wheel only using 1 ball on each.
  • Page 51 Collective servo wheel is installed with the offset to the rear; pushrods are 50 mm long, center to center using 30mm long pushrods. The throttle servo wheel just uses one ball and pushrod, but still needs to be centered, with ball at the top. Throttle pushrod is 173 mm long center to center using the 140 mm long pushrod.
  • Page 52 Install the on-off switch for the heli in this location. You’ll notice 2 slots for the switches in the case of the Dual Redundant Battery system available from Bergen R/C or ElectroDynamics.com With all the pushrods installed, now is a good time to go back and ream all of the links to obtain a perfect fit on all of the balls of the control system.
  • Page 53 The radio setup numbers for JR radio is as follows; Futaba radios will be similar but may require slight changes. The tail setup procedure is suggested using a GY401 gyro and 9254 servo. ATV’s or travel limits; Aileron 115% Elevator 85% Collective 100% Rudder 90% Gyro Gain HH 90%...
  • Page 54 To static track the tail blades, try this. Fold both blades up against the blade grips. Push one blade in until it touches the bolt for the vertical fin mount. Without changing the pitch, carefully rotate the tail system until the opposite blade comes close to the same bolt. Adjust the length of one special ballink until both blades touch the bolt when rotated.
  • Page 55 Install the NHP 800 MM Blades, first inserting the brass bushing into the root. Put a plastic spacer on each side of the blade root and slide the assembly into the blade grip. Note direction of rotation, in this case, clockwise as viewed from above the rotors. Install a 4X25 SHCS w/shoulder through the assembly and secure with a 4M locknut.
  • Page 56 Horizon Hobbies. We also have the angle brackets shown to attach them to the framework. We recommend using a Strongbox for your receiver from Sonic-Tronics, also available through us at Bergen R/C. Either way, attach your receiver and battery packs securely to the battery tray using padding and...
  • Page 57 You can install Pool Noodles on the landing gear as a visual aid; you may need to divert the exhaust as shown to prevent melting the foam. Install the Pan and Tilt receiver in between the framework at the top, with padding, and secure with tye- wraps or Velcro.
  • Page 58 Slowly spool up the blades, checking the tracking. Adjust as necessary by adjusting the length of the pushrod from the swashplate to the bell mixer. Hover RPM should be between 1450 to 1650 depending on payload, local conditions, and altitude. Adjust the RPM, using the throttle and pitch curves, to obtain the smoothest possible platform for your camera.