Page 1 INTREPID GAS and GAS EB INTREPID GAS and GAS EB INTREPID GAS and GAS EB INTREPID GAS and GAS EB...
Page 2 Owners Manual Owners Manual Owners Manual Owners Manual Assembly Assembly Assembly Assembly Instructions Instructions Instructions Instructions...
Page 3: Intrepid Gas
INTREPID GAS Table Of Contents...
Page 4 IT IS YOUR EXCLUSIVE RESPONSIBILITY TO PROPERLY BUILD, MAINTAIN AND OPERATE THIS HELICOPTER. Bergen R/C Helicopters has spent considerable time making this product reliable and easy to build, but only the operator can insure that it is safe. Because the safe operation of this helicopter is beyond the control of the Manufacturer and distributor, the owner/operator assumes all risk of use.
Page 5 Construction Manual Acknowledgments Bergen R/C Helicopters wishes to thank the facilities and friends for their continuing support during the development of the Intrepid Helicopter. Staff Chris Bergen; Chief Executive Officer Larry Bergen; Chief Design Engineer and General Manager Mary Ann Pratt; Marketing Sales and Service Terri Demeyer;...
Page 6 Introduction The first of its kind, interchangeable modular engineered helicopter to accommodate the beginner to a FAI expert… An idea in 1994 to manufacture an interchangeable, modular helicopter, led to the research and development in 1995. Focusing on quality, engineering details, and price, a prototype was produced.
Page 7 Purchaser. Any advice supplied by any representative of Bergen R/C pertaining to any particular application is given freely as an opinion and is not meant to bind Bergen R/C or in any other way modify this warranty.
Page 8 Bergen R/C Helicopters believes that information contained within its published materials is accurate as of the date of publication, and is not responsible for inadvertent errors or omissions. Bergen R/C reserves the right to make changes and improvements in its products without notice.
Page 9 With that out of the way, let me say “Welcome!!” ☺ ☺ ☺ ☺ You have joined a group, some call it the Bergen Family, and our goal is to get you up and flying and enjoying your Helicopter. This manual covers 2 models, The Intrepid Gasser (standard) and the Intrepid Gasser EB (Extended Boom).
Page 10 STANDARD GASSER BAG 1 1574B LANDING GEAR SET 5030 3X16M SHCS 5105 3M LOCK NUTS 5206 3X8 SELF TAP 3X16M FHCS BAG 2 1506 LOWER FRAME (RIGHT) 1507 LOWER FRAME (LEFT) 1560 SKID BAR 5090 3X8M FHCS 1520 BATTERY TRAY 1530 BATTERY TRAY SPACER 5010...
Page 11 2045 THROTTLE ARM 2030 MUFFLER SPACER 5109 4M FLAT WASHER 2036 PULL START ADAPTOR 5190 SHORT BALL 5141 3X18M SHCS 5105 3M LOCKNUTS 231B SPECIAL WASHERS BAG 4 1875 FUEL TANK ASSEMBLY 1880 FUEL TANK 1850 CLUNK 1855 SINGLE END FITTING 1860 DOUBLE END FITTING 1865...
Page 12 1605 ELEVATOR CONTROL SHAFT SHORT 1535 RUDDER SERVO MOUNT 9010 DELRIN COUPLER 9005 OUTPUT SHAFT 1210 COUPLER PIN 5095 3X4 SET SCREWS FRONT TRANSMISSION SUPPORT ASSEMBLY 270A BEARING BLOCK ASSEMBLY 3040 10X19X7 BEARING 270D BEARING BLOCK ONLY 270E BEARING BLOCK SUPPORT CRADLE w/bearings 270B BEARING BLOCK CRADLE W/O BEARING 3056...
Page 13 3045 6X19X6 BEARING 3050 10X19X5 BEARING 1286 START SHAFT COLLAR 5094 3X3 SS 1290 DELRIN BUSHING Set 1295 STEEL INSERT 1300 DELRIN BUSHINGS 5065 4X16M SHCS 5308 3X8 SPECIAL LOW HEAD CAP SCREWS 1270 MAIN GEAR BAG 7 1185 WASHOUT HUB ASSEMBLY 1201 WASHOUT MIXING ARM 3086...
Page 14 1550 BATTERY MONITOR MOUNT 1546 GYRO MOUNT BLOCK 3 HOLE 5090 3X8M FHSCS BAG 9 1155 SEESAW TUBE 1160 SEESAW END CAPS 3020 4X10X4 BEARING 1165 4M WASHER (SPECIAL) 5095 3X4M SET SCREW 1175 FLYBAR CONTROL ARM 1183 FLYBAR PADDLE 5190 SHORT BALL 5155...
Page 15 TAIL ROTOR BLADE GRIPS KIT 231-A BLADE GRIP ASSEMBLY ng) 3054 5X10X4 BEARINGS 231C BLADE GRIPS W/O BEARINGS 3052 5X10X4 THRUST BEARING TWIN 1815 TAIL ROTOR MAIN HUB 6M 5110 3M FLAT WASHER 5005 3X6 SHCS 5146 3X19 W/11 SHOULDER SHCS 5112 10M OD SPACERS 231B...
Page 16: Output Shaft
M1000 ALUMINUM TAIL ROTOR GEAR BOX ASSEMBLY M1000A GEAR BOX ONLY 5094 3X3M SET SCREW 5095 3X4M SET SCREW M1000B PITCH ARM BRACKET M1000F REPLACEMENT GEAR SET W/OUTPUT SHAFT TWIN 1000D OUTPUT SHAFT BEVEL GEAR BEAVEL GEAR W/SHAFT 1000E 10M PIN 5095 3X4M SETSCREW M1000C...
Page 17 5095 3X4 SET SCREWS 109A BEARING CARRIER ASSEMBLY 3090 .375X.625X1.56 BEARING 109C DELRIN INSERT 109E O’RINGS 109B DELRIN CARRIER 1945 CANOPY GROMMETS 1946 THUMB SCREWS 6015 TAIL ROTOR BLADES BAG 10B 1170 FLYBAR 1676 TAILBOOM 33” 2117 ARROW DRIVE SHAFT 1879 TIE WRAPS 1682...
Page 18 1921 CANOPY SAMPLE LOCKTITE 2049 ZENOAH G26H ENGINE HARDWARE 1165 4M WASHER (SPECIAL) 5001 3X4M SHCS 5005 3X6M SHCS 5010 3X8M SHCS 3X12 SHCS 5020 5030 3X16M SHCS 5035 3X20M SHCS 5050 3X35M SHCS 5055 3X40 SHCS 5060 4X12M SHCS 5065 4X16M SHCS 5069...
Page 19 5141 3X18M SHCS 5151 4X25M SHCS SPECIAL W/18M SHOULDER 5155 3M BRASS WASHER 5190 SHORT BALL 5195 MEDIUM BALL 5200 LONG BALLS 5205 PAN HEAD SCREW 5206 3X8 SELF TAP 5207 2X10M PHSMS 5308 3X8 SPECIAL LOW HEAD CAP SCREWS 231B SPECIAL WASHERS GASSER EB...
Page 20 5060 4X12 SHCS 5030 3X16 SHCS 5105 3M LOCKNUTS 5130 ¼ LOCK WASHER 5086 6X25 SHCS 5095 3X4 SET SCREWS 5065 4X16 SHCS 5010 3X8 SHCS 1470 MOTOR MOUNT BRACKET 5069 5X65 SHCS 5110 3M WASHERS 2045 THROTTLE ARM 2030 MUFFLER SPACER 5109 4M WASHER...
Page 21 1931 24M CANOPY STANDOFF STEPPED TWIN 1665 TAIL BOOM CLAMPS ELEVATOR CONTROL YOKE ASSEMBLY 280A ELEVATOR YOKE 280B ELEVATOR CONTROL YOKE A-ARM 280C ELEVATOR YOKE ARM PIN 1956 PLASTIC BALL LINKS 5102 3X12 SET SCREW 5095 3X4 SET SCREW 3086 3X7X3F BEARINGS 1600 ELEVATOR CONTROL SHAFT LONG...
Page 22 5010 3X8 SHCS 5110 3M WASHERS 1306 CLUTCH BELL ASSEMBLY 12T 1318 CLUTCHBELL w/lining only 3045 6X19X6 BEARING 1330 12 TOOTH PINION GEAR 1276 CLUTCH ASSEMBLY 1285 START SHAFT CLUTCH SHOE 1260 START SHAFT BEARING ASSEMBLY 1261 START SHAFT BLOCK ONLY 3045 6X19X6 BEARING 3050...
Page 23 5110 3M WASHERS 1540 AILERON SERVO MOUNT 1641 AILERON BELL CRANK 3031 5X8X2.5 FLANGED BEARINGS 5190 SHORT BALLS 1645 CONTROL ARM JAMNUT 5030 3X16 SHCS 1651 ELEVATOR X CONTROL ARM 5035 3X20 SHCS 1610 ELEVATOR CONTROL ARM 1545 GYRO MOUNT 1550 BATTERY MONITOR MOUNT 1546...
Page 24 1147 8X1M SHIM DAMPENING WASHER 5151 4X25 SHCS SPECIAL W/18M SHOULDER 5106 4M LOCK NUT 5005 3X6 SHCS 5010 3X8 SHCS 5030 3X16 SHCS 5035 3X20 SHCS 5072 5X16 SHCS 5111 5X10X2 SPACER WASHER BAG 10A ASSEMBLY 1 TAIL ROTOR BLADE GRIPS KIT 231-A BLADE GRIP ASSEMBLY ng) 3054...
Page 25 TWIN 1794 PITCH SLIDER SPACER (THIN) 3036 6X10X3 FLANGE BEARING 1801 ALUMINUM PITCH PLATE 5137 3/16 BALL W/2M HOLE 5076 2X8 SHCS 5120 2M NUT 1961 TAIL SPECIAL BALL LINKS 1806 PIVOT PLATE ARM EYELET 1811 PIVOT PLATE SHOULDER BOLT 4x4 ASSEMBLY 4 TWIN 1000 HEAVY DUTY GEAR BOX...
Page 26 109DA COLLARS FOR TORQUE TUBE DRIVE 9015 DOGBONE 9020 DOGBONE PIN 5095 3X4 SET SCREW 5050 3X35 SHCS 3X30 SHCS 5110 3M WASHERS 5020 3X12 SHCS 5105 3M LOCKNUTS 5010 3X8 SHCS 5094 3X3 SET SCREWS 5095 3X4 SET SCREWS TWIN 109A BEARING CARRIER ASSEMBLY 3090...
Page 27 1990 ELEVATOR LINKAGE 50M 1995 COLLECTIVE LINKAGE 30M 2000 COLLECTIVE LINKAGE 50M 2005 AILERON LINKAGE 85M 2010 SWASH PLATE LINKAGE 40M 2020 PITCH LINKAGE 75M 2025 FLYBAR LINKAGE SHORT 12M 1980 140M THROTTLE LINKAGE 5137 3/16 BALL W/2M HOLE 5207 2X10 PHSMS 5120 2M NUT...
Page 28 5010 3X8 SHCS 5308 3X8 LOW HEAD CAP SCREWS 5090 3X8 FHCS 5109 4M WASHER 5106 4M LOCK NUT 1165 4M WASHER (SPECIAL) 5060 4X12 SHCS 5065 4X16 SHCS 5151 4X25 SHCS SPECIAL W/18M SHOULDER 5111 5X10X2 SPACER WASHER 5091 5X12 FHSCS 5085 5X12 SHCS...
Page 29 Your Intrepid Gas kit starts off something like this, And ends up something like this!!
Page 30 A note on the Hardware in your kit. MOST of the hardware is located in the long strip of plastic, and marked with a sticky label. SHCS stands for Socket Head Cap Screw; FHCS stands for Flat Head Cap Screw, which is the same as a countersunk screw.
Page 31 Using 2 ea 3X16 FHCS (Flat Head Cap Screws) and 2 ea 3mm locknuts, secure the skid bars to the plastic struts. It’s not necessary at this time to fully tighten them down; you may need some slight adjustment room later. Bag 2 consists of your lower frames, battery tray, spacers and canopy mounts.
Page 32 With 4 ea 3X16 SHCS (Socket Head Cap Screws) and 4 ea 3m locknuts, secure the landing gear to the skid bars, including tightening up the 2 ea 3X16 FHCS and nuts. Install an Engine Mounting Spacer with 2 ea 3X8 SHCS to the INSIDE of each frame.
Page 33 Your kit will include one of these battery trays, the short one is for the Standard Gasser, and the long one is for the EB version to allow more room for weight needed to offset the long tail boom. The installation is the same, using 6 ea 3X8 FHCS attaching the battery tray spacers to the tray in the countersunk holes.
Page 34 The front spacer is secured with a 3X12 setscrew threaded halfway in, then the canopy mount threaded onto the setscrew. Look closely at the canopy mount, one side will have a deep chamfer, this is the OUTSIDE, making it easier to install the canopy thumbscrews when installing the canopy.
Page 35 With the lower frames ready, let’s get the engine together and ready for mounting. You’ll need Bag 3 and the contents of the engine box for these next steps. A dial indicator is ABSOLUTELY necessary to install the cooling fan to ensure a smooth running helicopter.
Page 36 Install the pull start adapter plate to the bottom of the engine with 3 ea 5X12 FHCS, orient it to clear the primary ignition coil of the engine. Then install the Pull starter with 4 ea 4X16 SHCS. It is permissible to use a drop of CA or super glue as a form of loctite on these 4 screws.
Page 37 Place the cooling fan with hub onto the crankshaft and install the 6X25 SHCS and ¼” lock washer, only snugging it down at this point. Set up your dial indicator as shown, reading off of the top side of the hub. Spin the fan slowly, watching the dial and marking the LOW side of the hub.
Page 38 As an aid to holding the fan, we do have a spanner wrench. It’s included in a tool set with a puller and spanner wrench for the flywheel, part #TOOL KIT. Ultimately, you should end up with your fan having less than .002 total runout as you spin the fan.
Page 39 Install the cooling shroud over the fan and cylinder head. Due to the necessarily tight fit over the head, it helps to warm, NOT MELT, the shroud using a heat gun or hair dryer. Install 4 ea 3X16 SHCS through the shroud and shroud mount holes.
Page 40 The aluminum motor mount is installed on the cylinder head with a 4X16 SHCS and 4m washer. A black can muffler is included with the Zenoah engine, and a bag containing a spacer, gaskets, and muffler bolts. Included with your Intrepid Kit is a thicker spacer, which is needed to space the muffler farther away from the frames.
Page 41 Also included in your kit are longer muffler bolts to match the thicker spacer. Place a gasket on either side of the thick spacer, with the longer muffler bolts through the muffler, and install it on the engine. The carburetor included is a Walbro 643, which includes a pump bulb and an idle adjustment screw.
Page 42 The carburetor arm installation is important to proper throttle setup. Slide the arm over the butterfly shaft. Look at the angle of the arm in both the open, And closed position. Rotate the arm so the angle is the same in both positions. Secure the arm with 2 ea 3X3 setscrews and loctite.
Page 43 The Zenoah engine also includes an air filter that is installed with the carburetor. Note the plastic washer installed over the choke lever, it’s important as it keeps pressure on the lever, preventing it closing in flight. Orient the air filter base, carburetor, and gaskets as shown with the two bolts through the whole assy.
Page 44 Snap the air filter cover back on, and your engine is complete. Set the engine into the lower frames and loosely install 2 ea 4X16 SHCS with 4m washers through the frames into the case of the engine. Also LOOSELY install 2 ea 3X8 SHCS with 3m washers through the frames, into the motor mount bolted to the cylinder head.
Page 45 Note the slots in the Pull start adapter plate. Loosely install 4 ea 3X18 SHCS, 8ea special washers, and 4 ea 3m locknuts, with a special washer on the outside AND the inside. A pair of bent needle nose pliers helps to get the locknuts installed.
Page 46 This is a good time to install the on/off switch, elevator, and throttle servos. It’s a good idea to install the switch with the OFF side up, to prevent an accidental shut off in the event of a hard landing. In Bag 11 you will find the plastic servo mount tabs used in place of nuts and eyelets when installed into the rubber grommets of the servos.
Page 47 Fit and install the fuel tank next, find the large Zip ties in Bag 10B, slide them under the elevator and throttle servo, through the holes in the front battery tray. Set the tank in place with the cap towards the rear of the heli, and mark 3 holes just behind the battery tray.
Page 48 Insert the single end fittings through the outer 2 holes, long hemostats help, then secure with the supplied nuts. Assemble the clunk line by inserting the clunk into one end of the supplied Tygon tubing. Cut it with sufficient length to reach the end of the tank. Alternatively, a suggestion is to use a longer piece for a clunk line, looping it around inside the tank to allow for easier movement of the clunk during aerobatic maneuvers.
Page 49 Insert a double end fitting into the Tygon clunk line, and secure with zip ties. Insert the fitting into the middle hole of the tank, and secure with the third nut. Be sure the tank is clean of all plastic bits from drilling, and install the cap. The clunk line should be free to flop around from side to side, and top to bottom.
Page 50 When you install the tank into the frames, you’ll want some kind of padding between it and the battery tray. I like Zeal tape, but understand that it may be too expensive to use in this application. Some type of foam will suffice. Set the tank under the battery tray and wrap the zip ties around it to secure the tank in place.
Page 51 Cut and install a piece of Tygon from the center fitting (clunk line) to the fwd fitting on the carburetor. Cut another piece to connect the left side single fitting to the rear fitting on the carb. This is a return line when pumping the bulb on the carb.
Page 52 The lower frame set is now ready to accept the upper frames, but we have to put them together first…☺ ☺ ☺ ☺ Bag 5...
Page 53 The upper frame sides are identical, but you have to make a right and a left, installing 2 ea 6X12X4 flanged bearings into the frame pieces. The flange goes on the INSIDE of each frame half. Very carefully, run a bead of thin CA (superglue) around the flange of the bearing, securing it to the frames.
Page 54 Install the shafts into the yoke with 2 ea 3X4 SHCS and RED loctite, matching the flats on the shaft with the broached hole in the yoke. Use the screw to draw the shaft into the yoke. The second shaft will be a little more difficult; using a ball ended driver makes it a bit easier.
Page 55 Note the shaft has a through hole on one end and a divot on the other. Slide the delrin coupler onto the shaft, lining up the hole in the delrin coupler with the hole in the shaft. Use a 1.5mm driver to help line up the hole. If it’s difficult to get it through, rotate the coupler on the shaft 180 degrees and try again.
Page 56 Place the pinion in the cage and slide the shaft through it all the way up through the forward bearing. Line up one of the holes in the pinion with the divot in the shaft and secure with a 3X3 setscrew and loctite. Check for fore and aft play by pulling and pushing on the delrin coupler.
Page 57 Place the front transmission onto the same side frame, with 2 ea 3X8 SHCS. Place the lower mainshaft bearing block in place, noting the orientation of the bearing (up), and install 2 ea 3X35 SHCS to hold it in place. Note the rear screw also goes through the front of the transmission cage….
Page 58 Set the elevator yoke in place, ensuring the LONG shaft sticks out the RIGHT side. The collective servo goes into the left side frame. Install the plastic servo mount tabs from Bag 11 and install the servo from inside the frames, with the splined shaft forward.
Page 59 Before putting the 2 sides together, note where the servo wires exit the servo and dremel out the frames to clear the wires. Put the upper frames together, sliding the flanged bearings over the axles and pushing the bearing block bolts through the holes.
Page 60 Install 2 ea 3X8 SHCS into the front transmission cage, loosely, and put 4 ea 3m Locknuts on the 4 bolts going through the bearing blocks, but do not tighten just yet. As an option, we offer a thrust bearing setup for the mainshaft. This is intended for load carrying birds, like an EB carrying an underslung camera mount.
Page 61 Install the rear canopy mounts in the bottom of the 2 holes behind the mainshaft bearing blocks, with 2 ea 3X8 SHCS and loctite. Use the crosshole drilled in the canopy mount to tighten them down.
Page 62 Install the rudder servo into the servo mount, using the plastic servo mount tabs from Bag 11. Orient the servo with the splined shaft forward, and secure with either the JR servo screws or 2.5X8 SHCS and 2.5 washers. Place the forward most set of boom clamps in between the frames and put a 3X35 SHCS through the upper hole in the frames and boom clamp to hold it in place.
Page 63 Repeat with the other 2 sets of boom clamps. Use 3 ea 3X40 SHCS to install the tail servo mount to the frames, with the screws going through the bottom hole of the boom clamps. Loosely install 6 ea 3m Locknuts onto the 6 screws, then we’re almost ready to install the upper frames onto the lowers.
Page 64 But first we have to install the main gear, mainshaft, and clutch system. The delrin bushings are first, with 2 ea 4X16 SHCS. Note the steel insert and that one end has a chamfered hole, the other does NOT. Insert the screw into the chamfered side, then slide the insert into the delrin bushing.
Page 65 The delrin bushing assembly then gets installed on top of the fan hub, with loctite. The clutch system consists of the clutch and start shaft, clutch bell with either a 14-tooth pinion (standard) or 12-tooth pinion (EB), triple bearing block, and start shaft collar.
Page 66 Slide the clutch and shaft up into the clutch bell, then slide the triple bearing block over the shaft, and onto the pinion. Slide the start shaft collar down to the upper bearing of the triple bearing block, and secure with 2 ea 3X3 setscrews and loctite. Make sure the clutch spins freely inside the clutch bell, and the clutch bell spins freely inside in the triple bearing block.
Page 67 Note the auto hub has a long and short end. The long end is the TOP, and is inserted into the main gear from the bottom. Line up the 4 holes in the main gear and the autohub and install 4 ea 3X8 Low Head Cap screws with loctite.
Page 68 Slide the mainshaft w/collar up through the autohub, then up through the lower mainshaft bearing block. Slip one of the split collars onto the mainshaft with the stepped side down toward the bearing and the chamfered side up. Slide the shaft up some more, through the elevator yoke, and install the second split collar onto the shaft, stepped side UP this time, chamfered side down.
Page 69 While pulling up on the mainshaft, push down on the lower split collar seating it against the bearing and tighten the 2.5mm screw. Push up on the upper split collar, seating it against the bearing and tighten the screw. These are “special” bolts in that we turn the heads down to fit the collar. They do not require loctite, but they DO require a hardened Allen driver to tighten them down and loosen them without stripping the heads out.
Page 70 Look at the 2 sides of the main gear. One side is chamfered, this is the top, the other side has a sharp edge, this is the side that the large hub sits inside of. Install the hub into the gear using 10 ea 2X8 SHCS, installing all of them loosely then tightening each one a little bit at time to prevent warping the gear.
Page 71 Install 2 of the screws opposite each other, loosely for now, then install the remainder, snugging them down slowly a little at a time to again prevent warping the gear. Thread the 2 ea 3X10 SHCS into the two sides of the hub, but do not tighten them.
Page 72 Install the autohub into the main gear hub using 4 ea Low Head 3X8 SHCS. Notice one end of the autohub is longer, this is the top, and is inserted into the gear hub from the bottom. Put a dab of grease in the underside of the crown gear hub, place the 10X16X1 washer in it, then dab a little more grease onto the washer.
Page 73 Install the crown gear hub onto the mainshaft, locating the 4X6 SS into the divot on the mainshaft. Do NOT tighten this setscrew; only use it to locate the hub onto the shaft Now tighten the 2 ea 3X12 SHCS Pinch bolts, securing the hub to the mainshaft. Now you can go back, loctite, and tighten the SS in the divot.
Page 74 Slide the autohub and large gear onto the mainshaft, not forgetting the 10X16X1 washer on top of the autohub. Install the bottom mainshaft collar, with the step down, and secure with the 4-40 SHCS. Insert the top of the mainshaft through the bottom mainshaft bearing, install split collars above and below the elevator yoke, with the step towards the bearings, then up through the upper mainshaft bearing.
Page 75 Push up on the upper split collar, seating it against the bearing, then tighten the pinch bolt. These bolts do NOT require loctite, but DO use a hardened allen driver. Tighten the upper main shaft bearing block bolts, and tighten the forward bolt in the lower mainshaft bearing block.
Page 76 Set the clutch on top of the fan hub, sliding the delrin bushings up into the clutch. Attaching the uppers and lowers together using 5 ea 26mm threaded spacers, 10 ea 29mm unthreaded spacers, and 10 ea 3X40 SHCS. Start at the front with a threaded spacer in between the upper frames, an un-threaded spacer between the uppers and lowers and run a bolt through, threading into the inner spacer.
Page 77 Place another un-threaded spacer on the opposite side and install another 3X40 SHCS into the threaded spacer. Repeat the process with another set of spacers and bolts, just to the rear of the 3 servos. Continue with the final 3 sets of spacers and bolts in the triangle shaped set of hole to the rear of the frames.
Page 78 Take a look at the gap between the fan hub and the clutch as well as the mesh between the pinion gear and main gear. The easiest way to set the mesh and gap is to remove the 2 ea 4mm bolts going into the side of the motor, move the engine up and down as needed to set minimal gap between the fan hub and clutch, moving the engine and clutch assy forward and aft as a unit to set the gear mesh.
Page 79 Loctite and tighten the 4 bolts going into the triple bearing block, and reinstall the 2 ea 4X16mm SHCS into the side of the motor, using Red RTV as a form of loctite. We use Red RTV because it withstands the heat of the engine better than loctite does.
Page 80 Set the tail drive pinion mesh by pushing down on the front of the cage, sometimes a tap or two is necessary due to the frames squeezing together on the cage. Note the “ears” on the front of the cage should be at least flush, sometimes below flush, with the main shaft bearing block once correct mesh is set.
Page 81 Install 4 ea medium balls onto the inner ring, again with loctite. While doing this, ensure that the eyeball bearing in the center remains free to swivel. Slide the completed swashplate onto the mainshaft and snap the elevator yoke ball links onto two of the outer balls. The washout unit assembly starts with the washout arms.
Page 82 Install a short ball on the opposite end, with loctite, noting the orientation. With a 3X16 w 6mm shoulder, and a brass washer as a spacer install the arm onto the washout unit, again noting the orientation. Tighten the bolt until the arm is free of slop, but not so tight that the bearings get “notchy”.
Page 83 These links may require reaming to fit freely on the ball, now’s a good time to do that. Now the explanation of the alternate links. Line up the balls that you snapped the radius links onto with the outer balls of the swashplate, preferably the ones to the sides.
Page 84 The angle is now "advanced". This gives a less stable hover, but more cyclic action. The porkchops are handed, meaning they only snap onto the ball in one direction, seen in the photo. All of this is also called swashplate timing, and in the higher end radios can be adjusted electronically in a specific mode or by mixing in some aileron with elevator, and elevator with aileron.
Page 85 Using 1 ea 3X8 FHCS and 2 ea 3X8 SHCS, bolt the 3 hole blocks to the gyro mounting plate. Note the orientation of the holes on the sides. Using 4 ea 3X8 SHCS, secure the assy to the upper frames, just above the collective servo and collective axle.
Page 86 Now’s a good time to mount your gyro, we suggest using Zeal tape, available from us, as an isolation from normal gasser vibrations to the gyro. Mount the gyro onto the tape, then use a small piece of velcro as a safety belt, not too tight, just enough to help keep the gyro sensor in place.
Page 87 Assemble the control arms, from Bag 7, starting with the “Popsicle sticks”, by installing a short ball on each one. For maximum collective, install it in the innermost hole. Some or all of these arms may be black anodized. Install short balls, 1 in the triple bellcrank, one in the single bellcrank, and 2 in the elevator arm.
Page 88 Install 2 ea short balls in the “X” arm, on the opposite side from the long balls. Install 2 ea short balls in each aileron bellcrank, noting that you are making a right and a left. The short balls may be silver in color. Another view of the aileron bellcranks.
Page 89 Insert the jamnuts through the bearings, from the “boss” side, then thread a SHCS through the jamnuts. The “X” arm gets a 3 X 20; the aileron bellcranks get 3 X16’s. Using loctite, thread the bolt into the popsicle stick, then tighten the jamnut against the popsicle stick.
Page 90 Install the left side Popsicle stick onto the collective axle and the short axle in the elevator yoke. Secure it with a 3X8 SHCS w loctite and 3m washer into the collective axle. Install a 3X4 SHCS w loctite into the short axle of the elevator yoke. Install the right side Popsicle stick onto the collective axle and the long axle of the elevator yoke.
Page 91 Install the “X” arm assy, threading the bolt into the collective axle, with loctite. Using the same method as the aileron bellcranks, set the tension of the bearings in the “X” arm by holding the jamnut, then tightening it against the Popsicle stick to secure it.
Page 92 Install the elevator arm onto the long axle in the elevator yoke, matching the flats in the arm with the flats on the axle. Note the long leg of the arm goes upward. Secure it with a 3X4 SHCS with loctite and a 3m washer, drawing it onto the flats of the axle.
Page 93 Secure with a 3X8 SHCS with loctite and a 3m washer. Be sure the bellcranks spin freely with the axle. Begin installing the aileron servo into the aileron servo mount by installing the brass or silver eyelets into the rubber grommets from the bottom side of the servo.
Page 94 Snap the plastic servo mount tabs into the aileron servo plate, from the cutout area side, with the long leg into the slots milled in the plate. Insert the servo into the top side (smooth) of the plate, oriented as shown with the splined shaft forward.
Page 95 Secure with 4 ea 3X8 SHCS and 2 ea 3m washers. You only need washers on the 2 rear bolts. Do NOT use loctite on these bolts, but you CAN use CA (Superglue) as a form of loctite. The plate is made from G10, which is porous and will not allow the loctite to set up.
Page 96 Build the rotor head next, out of bag 8, starting with the head axle. Note the “heim” ball in the center. This ball takes the weight of the helicopter, INSTEAD of the dampeners, allowing them to do their job of dampening the flapping motion of the rotor head system.
Page 97 The shim set includes 2 ea of .008, 2 ea of .015, 2 ea of .040, and 2 ea snap rings. If you want to fly hard 3D, then install one of each size shim on to the head axle. For softer flying, such as a camera ship, then try just the .040 and the .008 shim on each side.
Page 98 You may also be able to press the snap rings into place using the blade grips if only using the “soft” setup. There are 2 sizes of bearings associated with the seesaw tube. The 4X10X4 bearing (4mm ID) goes into the end of the tube. Do not confuse them with the 3mm ID bearing used in the next step.
Page 99 Using the 3X10X4 bearings (3mm ID) make 2 assemblies of a 3X8 SHCS and 2 3mm brass washers. Insert the seesaw into the head with the milled slot facing the direction shown in the picture. With a drop of loctite on the bolt, insert the bearing assy into the head, threading the bolt into the seesaw and drawing the bearing into the head.
Page 100 Install the opposite side bearing assy in the same manner, drawing it in while tightening the bolt. Now tap it in flush, effectively setting both sides flush with the headblock. Install 2 ea 3X5 panhead screws, with loctite, just above each bearing as a retainer.
Page 101 The seesaw endcaps are installed flush with the end of the seesaw, and secured with 3X4 setscrews and loctite in the short leg. The setscrew sits in the milled groove of the seesaw tube to prevent the endcap from rotating. Install a short ball on the long leg of each endcap, with loctite.
Page 102 Slide a blade grip with radial bearings installed onto each side of the head axle. Locate the 3 piece thrust bearings and 2 ea 5X16 SHCS and 5M washer. Grease the ballcage of the thrust bearing set, then install the thrust washer with the LARGE ID first, grooved side outward.
Page 103 Install the ballcage with the open face inwards, then install the thrust washer with the SMALL ID, grooved side inward. Install both 5X16 SHCS bolts and washer with loctite and tighten, using 2 Allen wrenches tightening against each other. Ensure the blade grips spin freely.
Page 104 Assemble the Bell/Hiller mixer with 2 ea 3X7X3 bearings, a “special” 3X12mm bolt w 6mm shank, brass washer as a spacer, and the blade grip pitch arm. Install the assembled bell/hiller mixer by threading the bolt into the middle hole on the pitch arm (recommended).
Page 105 Notice that one side of the bell mixer arm is longer than the other. You also have 2 holes on either side to attach the short control balls. These adjustments offer how much effect the flybar has on your rotor system. These adjustments will be discussed later in the manual.
Page 106 Place the rotorhead onto the mainshaft, locating it with the 3X20 SHCS as a “jesus” bolt. Do NOT tighten this bolt just yet… tighten the 2 ea 3X16 SHCS pinch bolts, alternating sides, tightening a bit at a time. These bolts are what actually hold the head to the mainshaft, the “jesus”...
Page 107 Roughly center the flybar in the seesaw and lightly tighten the flybar arms with 3X4 setscrews, while leveling the flybar arms to each other by sighting across the head. Measure both sides of the flybar, ensuring they are EXACTLY the same, moving it in and out as necessary.
Page 108 Install the flybar paddles, using the front hole, and count 19-21 turns onto the flybar. This will ensure proper thread length into the paddle. Measure the distance between the flybar arm and the paddles, making sure both sides are identical. Also ensure that the paddles are level to the flybar arms AND to each other by sighting across the head.
Page 109 Setting up your helicopter begins in your RADIO. With our Pure Mechanical, single servo system, we use NO mixes. So to begin, set your radio to an S-1, H-1, or single servo swashplate function. Make sure all subtrims are at 0, all mixes are turned OFF.
Page 110 Use a Large wheel on the aileron servo, again centering it EXACTLY EXACTLY EXACTLY. The first EXACTLY pic shows it slightly off, the second pic has the wheel rotated 180 degrees and perfectly centered. Here you can see the numbers (Blackened with a sharpie).
Page 111 The elevator servo wheel is set up slightly different in that you want to center it from the “X” arm using a straight edge. Using a small wheel, see how the straightedge passes through the center of the “3 pack”, the servo screw hole AND the center of the “X”...
Page 112 The black tic marks on the servo wheels show which holes we suggest using for proper setup in a true push pull system. Notice that they are OFFSET slightly from straight vertical, or in the case of the elevator, the angle from the “X”...
Page 113 From bag 9, make up 7 ea control ball assy’s using a 2X10 PHS, ball with hole, and 2mm nut. Install these control balls into each servo wheel at the marked holes and secure with another 2mm nut on the opposite side, with loctite. Next up are all the pushrods for the control system.
Page 114 Start off with the collective servo to triple bellcrank using the 30mm rods, making the linkages 51mm from center to center or 58mm from end to end. These dimensions are appx; you may need one turn either way to get the setup perfect, with the idea that both links are IDENTICAL in length.
Page 115 Make slight adjustments to the length of the rod so that the ball on the outside of the aileron bellcrank lines up EXACTLY over the bolt going to the elevator yoke axle. This is done with power ON to ensure the servo is centered…...
Page 116 From the “X” arm to the elevator arm use rods 50mm long, making them 70mm center to center or 77mm end to end. This arm should also be exactly straight up and down. From the washout arms to the Flybar arms, use the rods 30mm long, making them...
Page 117 Thread these links onto 2 ea 3 X12 SS, making them 30mm center to center or 37mm end to end, with a half twist and install them. With both of the rods attached to the bell/hiller mixer, they should also be exactly level. For Pitch setup purposes we offer a flybar lock w/flag to lock the flybar level to the rotor head.
Page 118 Which is used in conjunction with a pitch gauge, such as this one available from Miniature Aircraft USA. With the collective stick at half, verify that the pitch on the blades is at 0 degrees. If not, go back and find which bellcrank is NOT exactly level, horizontal, or vertical.
Page 119 Extended Boom Tail instructions Building the EB tail starts with the dogbone, pin, and a 3X4 Setscrew. With the pin in place, use loctite, and secure the pin with the setscrew coming in through the rear of the dogbone.
Page 120 From the 2 arrow shafts, cut 1” off of one end. The manufactured end of the arrow shaft may NOT be of the proper inner diameter and needs to be cut off. From that end, cut one shaft at 16 ¼”, the other at 17”. Cut the ends as square as possible then clean up any burrs or rough edges.
Page 121 Join the 2 arrow shafts at the bearing carrier with the coupler shaft inside the arrow shafts and collars around the outside, same thing at the gearbox, the input shaft goes inside the arrow shaft, the collar around it. In all cases, seat the arrow shaft all the way to the shoulder of the inner shaft and secure with ONE 3X3 setscrew for the time being.
Page 122 Install a 3X3 setscrew with loctite into the hole with the divot, securing the joint. Loctite and install a setscrew into the other 2 holes in the same collar. Repeat the process for the other 3 joints, drilling a divot, inspecting the divot, installing a setscrew IN the divot, followed by the other 2 setscrews.
Page 123 Clean any excess grease from the end of the boom and slide it all the way in until the gearbox seats into the boom. Line up the holes in the boom with the holes in the gearbox. If they’re not lined up, try rotating the gearbox 180 degrees and try again.
Page 124 With the EB boom, it’s easier to install the tail fins now, using the horizontal fin clamp and 2 ea sets of boom clamps. With 4 ea 3X30 SHCS through the fin, place a boom clamp half over the bolts. Place the boom into the clamps, tail output shaft AWAY from the fin, slide the other half of the clamps onto the bolts and secure with 4 ea 3m locknuts.
Page 125 The horizontal fin is attached to it’s clamp with 2 ea 3X8 SHCS. A drop of CA (superglue), will help keep these bolts secure. Slide the horizontal fin and clamp onto the boom, back towards the vertical fin. It will get secured later with the boom supports attached to the Horizontal fin clamp.
Page 126 Standard Tail Instructions Building the Standard tail system will require a couple of additional tools, a 12” ruler and a wooden dowel 3/8” dia and 33” long. Windex is needed to install the Torque Tube bearing carriers. We use it as it makes a good lubricant THEN totally evaporates, locking the bearing carriers into place in the boom.
Page 127 Spray a little bit of Windex onto the o-rings, and press the bearing carrier into the boom. Use the dowel to push the bearing carrier all the way into the boom to the rear or 22” mark. Lubricate the fwd bearing carrier with Windex and install it into the boom as well.
Page 128 Push this bearing carrier in up to the 10” or front mark. While working on the next step, the Windex will evaporate, allowing the rubber o-rings to secure the bearing carriers in place in the Boom. If you ever need to remove the bearing carriers, squirt more Windex into the boom and push them out with the wooden dowel.
Page 129 Assemble the dogbone by inserting the pin, centering it, and securing it with a 3X4 SS and loctite, installed from inside the dogbone. Insert the dogbone into one end of the arrow shaft, and slide one collar over both pieces. Install a 3X3 SS in one hole.
Page 130 Using a #46 drill bit, in one of the other 2 holes, drill THROUGH the arrow shaft and INTO the dogbone, leaving a divot. Disassemble the joint and inspect your divot. You want it deep enough that the setscrew will sit into it when assembled.
Page 131 Insert the TT in from the front end of the boom and through the bearing carriers. Push the TT all the way through until the rear off the TT sticks out the back of the boom. Slide the remaining Collar over the TT, the insert the input shaft of the tail gearbox in the TT.
Page 132 Again using the open hole in the collar, drill through the TT and into the input shaft with the #46 drill bit, creating a divot. Again disassemble and inspect the divot to ensure it’s deep enough for the setscrew to set into it. Reassemble the parts, and loctite a 3X3 setscrew into the hole with the divot, then the remaining 2 setscrews.
Page 133 Loctite and start BOTH 3X4 SHCS into the gearbox, then tighten both of them. These bolts do NOT require gorilla torque; all that will accomplish is pulling the threads out. If that happens, we can helicoil the gearbox. Slide the horizontal fin clamp onto the boom. These instructions apply to BOTH Standard and EB Versions.
Page 134 Level the gearbox by rotating the complete tail boom assy and tighten the 6 nuts and bolts going through the boom clamps. It is NOT necessary to close the gap on the clamps, nor is it necessary to put tape, sandpaper, or screws into the boom to hold it in place.
Page 135 Use JB weld to glue the ends into the boom supports. Ensure that the ends are parallel to each other. Secure one end to the bottom rear of the lower frames with 2ea 3X12 SHCS, 3m washers, and 3m Locknuts. Secure the rear of the boom supports with a 3X35 SHCS, 2 ea 3m washers, and a 3m locknut, but don’t tighten the bolt just yet.
Page 136 Level the horizontal fin, then tighten the bolt securing the clamp and boom supports. Gather up the vertical fin components (if not already installed), 4 ea 3X30 SHCS, 4 ea 3m locknuts, and 2 sets of boom clamps. Note the orientation of the fin, place the 4 bolts in the 4 holes and slide 2 of the boom clamps onto the bolts.
Page 137 Make sure the vertical fin is exactly vertical and tighten the 4 ea 3m locknuts onto the bolts. Again, it is NOT necessary to close the gap between the clamps, only to tighten them. Assemble the tail pitch bellcrank by installing 2 ea 3X7X3 flanged bearings with a spacer in between the bearings.
Page 138 The bearings should sit down in the bellcrank with only the flange above the surface. It may be necessary to sand the spacer down slightly to achieve this. Install the special bolt, a 3X12 w 6mm shoulder then place 2 ea brass washers on the bolt.
Page 139 Set the tension on the bearings by tightening the bolt, then locking it in place with a 3m locknut. The bellcrank should spin freely with no notchyness and no slop. The tail pitch slider is a preassembled unit; slide it onto the output shaft, making sure to insert the ball into the delrin cup.
Page 140 The shaft may have a coating on it from the precision grinding process, and can be cleaned off with Formula 409. A drop of oil on the shaft will also help. Check the fit of the ball into the delrin cup and ream as necessary. Proper operation here will greatly affect how well your tail rotor/gyro/servo system works.
Page 141 Install the tail hub onto the tail output shaft with ONE, and only ONE, 3X4 setscrew and loctite. The tip of the setscrew MUST sit into the divot on the output shaft. Using only one setscrew IS more secure than 2 setscrews 180 degrees apart in this application.
Page 142 Place a small drop of loctite on the threads of the shoulder bolt and screw into the horn on the tail blade grip, being VERY careful NOT to get loctite into the joint. This will make the joint stiff and your tail rotor system will NOT function properly, causing servos to overheat, tail wags, sticking, etc.
Page 143 Slide a tail blade grip onto the tail rotor hub, then install the 10mm spacer, the larger ID thrust bearing washer, the greased ball cage, then the small inner diameter thrust bearing washer. Secure the assy with a 3X6 SHCS and a 3m washer, with loctite.
Page 144 Locate the “special” tail ball links. These do require a slight modification in trimming off the ribs off of each side and cutting them down to 17mm long for the Standard Gasser Magnum gearbox, or 15mm for the EB HD gearbox. Thread the links all the way onto the eyelets, then snap the ends onto the balls installed on the pitch slider.
Page 145 Note the direction of the blade grips in the pics. We use a “leading edge control” on our grips. The tail blades included in your kit are from KB Dream Designs and may vary slightly in design and color from the picture. The tail blades are installed with a 1mm washer on both sides.
Page 146 It may be a tight fit, that’s OK! Install tail blade grip bolt and secure with a 3m locknut. Only tighten enough to barely hold the blades in place. Not the direction of the tail blades leading edge. The tail pushrod is made from a carbon fiber rod. Assemble the aluminum ends with a 3X18 SHCS, 3m locknut and ball links.
Page 147 Tighten the nut sufficiently to prevent the bolt from turning and thread the ball link onto the stud, about half way down. Assemble the other end the same way, then glue ONE end on to the carbon fiber rod using JB weld.
Page 148 Snap this end onto the tail servo wheel ball; making sure the ball is pointed straight down with power on. Snap the loose push rod end onto the medium ball on the tail pitch bellcrank. Mark the point on the carbon fiber rod where it needs cutting so it fits into the push rod end assy.
Page 149 Use a piece of ½” Velcro, wrap it around the boom, then around the tail pushrod. Only put a small amount of tension on the pushrod with the velcro. This velcro support will help to keep the pushrod from vibrating like a banjo string. Tuck the velcro strap up under the front of the horizontal fin.
Page 150 To check the tail blade tracking, fold both tail blades forward in their grips. Angle one of them until it just touches the boom clamp bolt. Now carefully spin the tail blades around until the opposite blade comes near the same bolt. If they are not the same distance from the bolt, as in the 2 picture, then adjust the length of the special ball link associated with that blade to bring it to the...
Page 151 Install each main blade with a 4X25 SHCS w/18mm shoulder and 4mm Locknut. Note the leading edge direction. Tighten the blades enough so that if you lay the heli on it’s side and shake it, the blade will not move in the grips. This is especially important with the EB using long blades.

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Page 3: Intrepid Gas

Page 16: Output Shaft

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