THUNDER TIGER E325 Mini Titan ARF Assembly Instructions Manual page 7

While I had things powered up I went about setting up the gyro. I used the closest hole on the servo
wheel which gave me just under 100 on the limit pot on the GY401. Then I moved the servo on the
boom until the tail pitch slider was centered with the gyro in rate mode and the servo arm at 90
degrees to the servo. This put the servo a little farther back than I would have liked but the Mini
Titan has a longer nose than some similar sized helicopters so I hoped the balance would work out.
(It did)
The receiver mounts on the shelf on the left side of the helicopter towards the rear. I used double
sided foam tape on both the small shelf and the side frame and backed up the tape with a wire tie. I
used a 148DP receiver because it's fairly small and light and I had one on hand. A Futaba 146iP
would be perfect in this application.
Receiver mounting Final component installation Main blade construction
With the airframe assembly out of the way I turned my attention to the main blades. Thunder Tiger
includes weighted wood blades with the Mini Titan kits. The blade roots need to be glued to the blades
and you can use either epoxy or thick CA. Please don't skip this step as shedding a blade in flight is
not a pretty sight.
The top and bottom blade roots are different so separate them into a pair for each blade. Cut the
covering over the bolt hole and press the root in place. Trace the outline of the root onto the covering
then use a sharp hobby knife to cut the covering about 1/16 th of an inch inside the line. If you use
dry erase ink to mark the outlines you can wipe them off for a nice clean installation. When you cut
the covering make sure you don't cut into the wood and weaken the blade. After everything is fitted
properly scuff the gluing area of the blades and roots with sandpaper. I glued the roots and clamped
them down to dry.
When I was done I inspected the blades and found one was warped. I also found that the covering
wasn't very tight. I waved a heat gun over the covering to shrink it down a little bit and see if I could
get the warp out. I got it as tight as I could manage without melting the covering. I put the blades on
my Kyosho blade balancer and they balanced with one piece of tracking tape.
After the receiver and servos are installed and the blades are ready you can go ahead and set up
your pitch curves. The manual gives several suggestions. I set all my pitch curves up with 0 at mid
which lets my helicopters hover around ¾ stick. For the review flights and all of my subsequent flying
I was running -4 to +10 in normal flight mode and +- 12 degrees at full stick in idle up 1. My cyclic
pitch was set to 8 degrees for aileron and elevator.
The last step is to cut the canopy out and install the simulated carbon windshield and the decals. I
prepared the canopy by cutting out the outline and several ventilation holes so that the battery,
motor, and speed controller got plenty of airflow.
Canopy ready for decals Ready for a test hop Flight Power Lipo Batteries
For applying the decals I wash the canopy and my hands using dishwashing liquid soap. Then prepare
a bowl with several drops of the dish soap and warm water. Cut out the decals and fully immerse the
decal in the water. Take your finger and spread some water over where the decal will go and slide
the decal in place. This will give you some time to get it positioned where you want it. Then use a
paper towel wrapped around your finger and push the water out from under the decal from the center
working your way to the edges. If you take your time you will end up with a perfectly smooth decal
with no air bubbles.
After this is done I like to use a heat gun to dry everything and set the adhesive but I didn't think the