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After press-fitting in the steering box, finally process the
bushes with a reamer A.90336 up to the size of 28.698-28.720
mm. The mounting gap between the pitman arm shaft and the
bushes should be within 0.008-0.051 mm.
Check for easy rotation of the pitman arm roller on the ball
bearing. The ball bearings on the worm and the roller should
rotate freely, without jamming; there should be no signs of wear
or damages on the surface of the rings and balls.
Check the axial clearance between the head of the adjusting
screw 8 (see fig. 5-5) and the groove in the pitman arm shaft 7.
The gap should not exceed 0.05 mm. If more, replace the adjust-
ing plate 9 with a plate of greater thickness.
Note. In the spare parts the adjusting plates are supplied of
eleven sizes, with thickness from 1.95 mm up to 2.20 mm, ; the
increase in each size makes 0.025 mm.
Inspect locking plates 5 (see fig. 5-3). Renew if they are
deformed.
Steering shaft - dismantle and reassembly
Dismantle. Undo the U-joint fork fastening bolt and separate
the intermediate and upper shafts of the steering mechanism.
If the upper shaft or its bearings are damaged, flare the
places of the bracket pipe punching and take out the pipe from
the shaft 15 (see fig. 5-1) in assembly with bearings 11.
If the shaft rotates in the bearings without jamming and there
is no radial free play in the bearings (the resilient radial move-
ments of the steering shaft are allowed), it is not recommended
to dismantle the upper steering shaft.
Renew the shaft and the bearing in case of wear or damage.
The reassembly is carried out in reverse order, paying atten-
tion that the U-joint lock bolt passes through the ring groove on
the upper shaft. Then punch the bracket pipe in two points from
both sides to fix the shaft bearings.
Tie-rods and balljoints
Removal and refitting. Remove the cotter pins and undo the
nuts with which the side tie-rod ballpins are fastened to the arms
on the steering knuckles.
Using puller 67.7824.9516 (fig. 5-10) take out the ballpins
from the cone apertures on the arms.
Remove the cotter pins and undo the nuts fastening the
ballpins of the middle and side tie-rods to the pitman arm and to
the idler arm. Using puller 67.7824.9516, take out the pins from
the corresponding jacks on the arms and remove the tie-rods.
The tie-rods are refitted in reverse order. All ballpin nuts are
tightened with a dynamometer with subsequent splinting. If the
nut cut does not match the opening for the pin, the nut should be
120
screwed in to an angle, smaller than 60° to provide for subse-
quent splinting.
After refitting adjust the front wheel toe-in.
Check and repair. Inspect the protective caps 3 (fig. 5-11),
as described above (see "Inspection, check and adjustment of
steering mechanism"). Renew damaged protective caps.
Inspect the condition of the tie-rod balljoints by their radial and
axial clearance. If the free play of pin 1 in case 3 is felt, and also in
case of dirt or sand penetration, or corrosion on the ballpin, wear
of the support insert - renew the joint with the tie-rod end.
Idler arm bracket
Removal and dismantle. Separate the idler arm from
ballpins on the middle and side tie-rods, remove the cotter pins,
having previously undone the nuts and taken out the ballpins
from the arm using puller 67.7824.9516. Then undo the bolt fas-
tening the bracket to the body chassis arm and remove the
bracket.
Fix the bracket in vice, remove the cotter pins and undo nut
4 (fig. 5-12), then remove washers 3 and 6 and the idler arm 1 in
assembly with shaft 9, washer 10 and self-locking nut 11, remove
sealings 7 and press out bushes 8.
Inspection. Inspect the idler arm shaft bushes; in case of
out-of-roundness or inadmissible gap between them and the
shaft, renew the bushes. Also renew sealings 7.
Check the shaft for out-of-roundness and damages, renew if
necessary. Ensure the idler arm has no deformations, otherwise
renew.
Assembly and refitting. Before reassembly grease the
bushes of the idler arm shaft and fill the space between them with
ãàíéã-24. The reassembly order of the idler arm bracket is a
reverse to dismantle.
If shaft 9 was replaced, the bracket self-locking nut 11 should
be tightened with a dynamometer.
Washer 6 is installed with the extrusions facing upwards.
After tightening nut 4 the arm in horizontal position should not
rotate under its own weight. It should turn under force of 9.8-19.6
N (1-2 kgf) applied to its end.
If nut 4 was tightened too much, undo it, raise washer 6 and
tighten again.
Fix the bracket on the chassis arm with self-locking nuts and
flat washers, tighten them with dynamometer.
Connect the tie-rod ballpins to the idler arm.
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