Table of Contents
Advertisement
Natco Fire-Coil Volume Water Heaters
3.
Make sure the gas valve is on and there is gas
pressure in the line.
4.
Check all electrical connections and wiring.
Finding a loose connection or a charred wire can
save a lot of time and money.
5.
Check the fuse inside the black, twist-lock fuse
holder. If it is burned, replace it with a 2-amp
fuse (Part No. E0084400). If there is a short, the
cause of the short must be found and repaired.
Do not jumper or bypass the fuse.
6.
Make sure the electrical circuit to the heater is
on.
7.
Make sure the toggle switch on the right side of
the heater is on.
8.
Make sure the temperature control is set high
enough to call for heat.
9.
Make sure the manual reset on the safety controls
(e.g., low water cutoff, hi-limit switch, etc.) has
not tripped. If it has, reset it.
If the pump is circulating water, and the rest of
these items check out all right, the trouble could be in
the heater control system.
Label all wires prior to disconnection when servicing
controls. Wiring errors can cause improper and
dangerous operation. Verify proper operation after
servicing.
5B-2. Testing the Transformer
NOTE: Keep the pump running.
Testing the transformer requires an AC voltmeter
with a 50 volt (V) range. Test the transformer using
the following procedures:
1.
Clip a lead from the voltmeter to the yellow wire
terminal on the transformer (this lead stays
connected to this terminal for all tests).
2.
Touch the other lead to the red wire terminal (see
Figure 34). The voltmeter should read 20 to
28VAC.
3.
If the voltmeter does not show voltage, check the
electrical power supply.
4.
If the voltage is less than 20VAC, the electrical
circuit to the heater may be supplying less than
103VAC. This could be due to high pump load or
air conditioners or other appliances on the
circuit.
5B-3. Testing the Electrical Power Supply
The electrical components of the VW and PW
heaters operate with supply voltage ranging from 103
Caution
Figure 34. Testing the transformer.
to 126VAC at 60 Hz. To test the electrical power
supply:
1.
Measure the voltage at the hot and neutral
connections inside the heater electrical junction
box.
2.
Voltage outside of the required range may be due
to poor wiring connections, to other loads (e.g.,
air conditioners, compressors) on the circuit, to
high pump load, or to an electrical utility
company problem.
5B-4. Testing the Manual Reset
Hi-Limit Switch
To test the manual reset hi-limit switch (see
Figure 35):
1.
Touch the other lead of the voltmeter to both
terminals of the manual reset hi-limit switch. The
voltmeter should read 20 to 28VAC at both
terminals.
2.
If no voltage is detected at one terminal, reset the
manual reset hi-limit switch by pressing the reset
button. Check the temperature setting.
3.
If after pressing the reset button there is still no
voltage indicated at one terminal, replace the
manual reset hi-limit switch. An open switch
may indicate excessive water temperatures or
improper setting.
5B-5. Testing the Flow Switch
The flow switch is a safety device that senses
water flow through the heater. When the switch senses
adequate water flow, it closes, allowing the heater to
Page 23
Advertisement
Table of Contents
