N Series Rear Axle And Brake Overhaul - Ford 9N Service Manual

N Series Rear Axle and Brake Overhaul

After months of driving my tractor with no brakes, watching board postings, and researching the
archives, I got the courage to fix them. Here is the procedure I followed. Things seem to be
working, for now at least.
Safety (check archives)
Rear tires are generally filled with ballast, remove them using extreme care.
On a level surface, I removed 5 and slightly loosened the remaining 3 lug nuts, then raised the
rear of the tractor until its weight was on the floor jack. Then carefully "walk" the rear wheel from
the hub, roll it to the front of the tractor and rest it over the front wheel. Now set the rear of the
tractor firmly on the safety stand or adequate timber support.
Proper tools
¾" socket set with 2" socket and cheater bar (30" to 36")
Axle Puller that attaches to lug nuts in 3 places
Floor Jack
Good Safety Stand (3 6"x6"x24" wood timbers)
Safety Glasses
Procedure (check archives)
Disassembly
Once the rear wheel is off, back off the brakes with a screw driver through the adjustment hole
using the star wheel adjuster until the drum spins freely. Remove the 4 brake drum safety screws
and the drum should slide right off. You can now see the damage done by oil and determine
which parts should be replaced.
The axle hub can now be removed. Don't use anything but the proper 3 point axle puller, I had to
search a little but finally found one to rent for $8. After removing the wire retainer, loosen the
main axle nut. This may require some effort, as the recommended tightening torque is between
400 and 500 foot pounds. I used a 2" socket wrench and a 30" cheater. This way my 160
pounds would give me the proper torque (2.5' x 160# = 400 ft lbs). Back the nut off but leave it
on the axle so the end is flush with the end of the axle shaft, if the hub pops it won't fly off.
Remove the brakes, taking care with the springs. My brake shoes were almost new, but covered
with oil and grease. I simply cleaned them (and all of the brake parts) with Brake Kleen, they look
and seem to work pretty good.
Remove the 4 studs and 2 bolts holding the axle seal brake support plate in place. Inspect the
seal and mating surface on the hub. I found mine seal to be good and polished the hub mating
surface. I don't believe much oil was leaking past the seal. I am convinced oil was leaking
though all of the other joints where there were no gaskets (see below).
Remove the end shaft seal cork gasket on the axle shaft up against the bearing (it's the diameter
of the axle and about ½" long p/n 4294). Finally remove 2 bolts holding the bearing retainer.
Remove the shim pak, backing plate and gasket but leave the axle and bearing on the tractor.
Assembly
You will want to make sure all of the joints that are exposed to oil have gaskets and are sealed
properly. I used Permatex silicone sealant on both sides of every gasket and shim. Clean all
shims and clean or replace gaskets. Check that the shim pak is adjusted properly. I believe this
adjustment insures the axle spins in the center thus is important to proper seal function.
Please verify this procedure:
Dry install the gasket, backing plate, gasket, shim(s), gasket, and bearing retainer. Remove
shims until both axle shafts spin the same direction when the opposite wheel is rotated