Changing the Fuel Filter on an R1100RS - Jon Diaz
Here is the procedure to change your R1100RS fuel filter. It took me about 90
minutes the first time....but hopefully, things will go more quickly for you!
Purchase the following before you start: a new fuel filter, a new sealing O-ring for
the fuel pump plate, and two standard BMW fuel line clamps just like the ones
used on the fuel lines by the right side throttle body (point to these on your bike if
your parts jockey doesn't understand). Let your sealing O-ring lie out for a few
days before starting the job.....I didn't and had trouble later. Let the fuel level run
down, way down, so low you don't think you can make it back to the gas station.
It still won't be low enough so you might want to siphon out from the top as well.
Get as much fuel out as possible. Drain, swirl the bike, drain some more. OK?
Remove the left and right fairing panels, the seats, and the right fuel injector
cover. Unplug the right fuel injector wire and the fuel pump harness. The fuel
delivery hoses run behind the cross-over throttle cable, and most people will
have too many fingers to keep all that stuff plugged in. Remember that there are
also two screws tying the upper fairing to the gas tank, and two little screws
holding the left and right inner panels (the ones with the rocker switches/RID) to
the gas tank. Those screws must be removed.
Remove the screw holding down the back of the gas tank, and keep track of the
grommets used to fill the gap between the frame and the tank. They like to fall
out....
Unplug the vent lines right next to the airbox, and loosen both fuel line clamps.
The top fuel line is holding the fuel....when you pull it, you will need to drain into a
gas can until it stops, otherwise there will be a tremendous mess. When it is
done draining, remove the other hose and lift the tank off the bike.
I laid the tank on a towel on my garage floor, right side down. Mark the
orientation of the pump plate and then loosen it; carefully pull the inside vent
lines off the plate, and gently rotate the whole assembly out. Hold the assembly
with your right hand, and use your left hand to guide the fuel level sender and
fuel pump screen through the hole in the side of the tank.
I carried the fuel pump/filter works to the bench. Anyone familiar with a K-bike
will recognize everything here except the fuel filter is held in with compression
clamps. I pried those clamps off, pulled the hoses from either end, removed the
old filter and inserted the new one, and tightened the works down with the
aforementioned screw-type clamps.
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