Detail Coring
•
a) –2 to +7 scale; +7 has most extreme smoothing effect
b) Helps mask appearance of noise in image
c) Works with other Detail settings by giving camera a threshold for when to ignore
detail enhancement (to avoid creating edge enhancement around video noise
– because Detail Level is boosting both fine detail and video noise at the same
time)
d) This setting is only noticeable if Detail Level is set at a high setting
Chroma Level
•
a) –7 - +7 scale, +7 is most saturated color
b) It's OK to max out the saturation on HD if you're looking for very vivid, bright
color; HD color doesn't bleed like NTSC video
Chroma Phase
•
a) Goes from –7 (more saturation in oranges and greens) to +7 (more saturation
in purples and magentas)
b) Mild effect, similar to "TINT" knob control on NTSC TV
Color Temperature
•
a) Much more extreme color shifts than Chroma Phase
b) Allows you to bias white balance
c) Ranges from –7 (orange bias) to + 7 (blue bias) – similar to shooting in daylight
with tungsten film or vice versa
d) Only works if you're not using WB preset positions on AWB camera switch.
Master Pedestal
•
a) Contrast control; controls video black level
b) Lower setting (up to –15) = deeper, richer black
c) Higher setting (up to +15) = more washed out, milky black
d) Be cautious about setting pedestal too low; you risk crushing blacks and losing
image detail in shadows. Crushed blacks can make a nice, sharp, snappy
image, but this is the sort of thing you can also do in post when you color
correct – so it's better to preserve as much detail as possible at the shooting
stage.
e) –4 to –6 is good range for regular shooting
f) –8 - -10 is a starker hi con look, more like reversal film (and better to save for
post unless you're absolutely sure about wanting this look)
A. Iris Level
•
a) Lets you bias auto Iris reading to underexpose or overexpose (each setting =
1/3 of a stop)
b) You probably won't be using this, since you should be setting exposure
manually!