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M3D Pro Disassembly- Alpha
In this guide we will explain how to disassemble the Pro so you can remove the gantry's and
extruder. You will need a 2.0mm/1.5mm hex screwdriver for the disassembly and you'll want to be
in a antistatic environment. Some electronics will be exposed during the disassembly and there is
a chance you could damage them. We recommend not working on a carpeted area and to
discharge before working. You can do this by touching something metal (Not the printer) for at
least one second. Wearing an antistatic wrist-wrap would be good. Link for a wrist-wrap here
https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Anti-Static-Components-RTK-002-Yellow/dp/B004N8ZQKY/ref=
sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494531998&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=anti+static+wrist+strap&psc=1
Although, it is highly recommended to use an antistatic wrist-wrap, if you do not have access to
the antistatic wrist-wrap, you can do the repair process by having a metal contact to your body
throughout the repair.
Since the M3D PRO 3D printer is highly static device as there are various PCBs involved, if the
repair process is carried out without following the above recommendation and the customer end
up frying the electronics, they would need to send back their printers to M3D headquarters for
replacement. The printer will still be covered under warranty but the replacement units will only be
send by end of July.
Step 1.
T he first step will be to remove the front cover from the Pro. To do this you will need to
remove the hex screws from the cover. There are a total of 8 screws in each cover. Four screws
on the top and four screws on the bottom.
1.
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Summary of Contents for m3d Alpha
- Page 1 Step 1. T he first step will be to remove the front cover from the Pro. To do this you will need to remove the hex screws from the cover. There are a total of 8 screws in each cover. Four screws...
- Page 3 O nce you have removed all of the screws you can gently start pulling the cover off the Pro. Try pulling out the top a little first and then move onto the bottom. Keep going back and forth from top to bottom until the cover is removed.
- Page 5 Step 3. O nce the front cover has been removed move onto the rear cover. The process will be similar to the front cover. The only difference will be that there is a grommet attached to the cable assembly on the bottom that may need to be removed to remove the rear cover.
- Page 7 Step 4. O nce the front and back covers are removed you will be left with the box top rails. These can easily be removed by just lifting them up and off the rods.
- Page 8 Once the rails are removed be sure to check the rods to make sure all the spring washers are there. You should have one spring washer on each rod. You may want to remove these and keep them in a safe place so you do not lose them. Step 5....
- Page 9 Step.6 Once the extruder has reached the top and cannot go up any more than you should be able to remove the extruder without issue.
- Page 11 X rods. If you have one of our early Pro’s then the rods might have been press fitted on. To remove these you will need to twist the gantry’s back and forth to loosen the fit and remove the rods.
- Page 12 Step 8. If you are running into any grinding noises please continue with this step. Once the extruder is off you should be able to see the X gear and encoder wheel inside the holes where the X rods are inserted. A encoder wheel rubbing up against the encoder could be causing your noise issue.
- Page 13 If you cannot get a good shot of the encoder wheel and encode together then please continue with the next step. Step.9 I n this step we will disassemble the extruder core slightly to get a better photo of the encoder wheel and encoder.
- Page 14 Step 10. O nce the front cover is off you will need to unplug the fan cable. The fan cable is located at the top of the “X Board” located on the right side of the extruder motor. Step 11. N ext we will unscrew the two hex screws holding the top of the extruder core in.
- Page 16 Step 12. W ith the extruder core slightly out you should be able to get a better picture of the inside of the X housing where the encoder wheel and encoder are. You can also insert the X rod with rack and move it back and forth to see if the encoder wheel is rubbing on the encoder.
- Page 17 2. Gently pull the cable assembly out as shown in the picture below:...
- Page 18 3. After removing the cable assembly, gently push the extruder housing out such you can get access to the screw that holds the X board as shown in the picture below. 4. Once you remove the X board, very carefully remove the E housing out making sure not to break the encoder wire that connects the X board to the E housing and X housing.
- Page 19 5. Once you remove the E housing, carefully pull the X housing out. In order to remove the X housing, you would need to remove the two tabs that are present on the bottom section of the X housing out from their slots. Refer to the following pictures for reference.
- Page 20 The above figure shows the two taps (gold) that needs to be pushed up in order to take the X housing out of the print head body.
- Page 21 In order to check if the movement of the X rack and rod with the X gear is smooth and that the gear is not grinding against the X rack, assembly the X housing to the E housing by putting the two screws back together that joins the X housing to the E housing and install the X rack and rod by referring to the following pictures, and slide the X rack back and forth and notice if there is any grinding noise or if the rotation is smooth.
- Page 22 In order to resolve the issue of X gear grinding against the X rack, check if the X encoder wheel is located in between the X encoder. This is how the X gear with encoder and encoder wheel looks like from the bottom view:...
- Page 23 The following picture shows how the X encoder wheel is located between the X encoder. None of the black taps should come in contact with the encoder wheel as this can cause the encoder wheel to stall while the X motor is running which will in turn stall the X gear and hence the X axis.
- Page 24 Note: If you continue to experience, the X axis grinding, then please submit a ticket with tech support helpdesk@printm3d.com. While submitting a ticket take a video with sound of moving the X axis back and forth so that we can better understand what could be causing the grinding issue.
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