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C4S Assembly Instructions Designed and manufactured in Australia by The Loudspeaker Kit www.theloudspeakerkit.com Email: sales@theloudspeakerkit.com...
Assembly manual You will need: • Phillips head screwdriver • Woodworking glue • Damp cloth • Good quality masking tape • Ratchet tie down strap (optional) • Brick or other weight (optional) Preparation Lay the contents of the box out and check you have everything you need to complete the kit (see parts list on back page).
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Assembly manual Masking tape We recommend avoiding cheap masking tape, which tends to break when applied under tension. If you aren’t using the weight and ratchet strap, you are relying on the masking tape along to apply pressure to the join as the glue sets. Lay out the rear panel and apply masking tape up as shown.
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Assembly manual Apply a glue bead to all four joins between the rear and adjacent panels. This first bead of glue should be applied to the bottom of the mitre. Then apply a second bead in the middle of the mitre.
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Assembly manual Confirm that the glue adequately covers the entire surface of the joins by folding up each pair of panels to form a vertical join as shown above. Check the glue covers the entire surface of the join. Add more glue where necessary. Wipe excess glue with a damp rag then firmly press the panels together as you hold them in place with masking tape.
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Assembly manual Apply one thick glue bead to the mitres on the front baffle. Confirm the amount of glue by pressing into position. The entire join should be covered in glue – apply more glue where necessary. Now press the baffle firmly into place. Wipe excess glue and secure with masking tape.
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Assembly manual Secure panels firmly with masking tape after wiping all joins with a damp cloth. Use firm pressure when applying the tape. The tape holds the panels together as the glue sets and should cover all joints. The tape should cover all edges. An optional step for improved clamping pressure is to secure top, bottom and side panels with a tie down ratchet strap.
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Assembly manual Drying time Typical wood glues can achieve moderate strength in as little as 30 minutes. If you are using PVA glue then a good indicator that it has set is the transparency. PVA becomes transparent once set. Ideally it’s best to leave the enclosure clamped over night before moving on to assembly or finishing.
Assembly manual Installing the crossover board There are three sets of cables: • Input terminals: located near the larger inductor on the end of the board. • Tweeter output: easily identified by the white cable (HI+ HI -) • Woofer output: black cable next to the tweeter outputs (LOW+ LOW-) The board is fixed in place with 4 short button head self tapping screws.
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Assembly manual As shown above, driver cutouts provide access to fix the passive crossover board in place. Using the shorter screws, fix the board in place with a Phillips head screw driver. Avoid over tightening. Ensure the board is oriented so the inputs with the shortest cable pair are near the terminal cut out.
Assembly manual C4S section diagram Installing drivers We recommend using a Phillips head screwdriver, as some powered drivers are more likely to cause damage if the head slips off the screw head. Impact drivers should be avoided. If using a powered driver, it’s best to use one which has a clutch, so that once the screws are adequately tightened, the driver will not over-tighten.
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Assembly manual Tweeter The tweeter must be installed first as the woofer flanges overlap. Find the white wire loom for the tweeter and push the connectors onto the driver tabs. Caution: tweeter terminals are fragile – observe instructions on the previous page about how to safely connect the cable without causing damage Insert the provided screws into position and tighten with a Phillips head screwdriver as shown below.
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Assembly manual Woofers Find the white wire loom for each woofer and push the connectors onto the driver tabs. Caution: Observe instructions on page 11 about how to safely connect the cable without causing damage. Insert the provided screws into position and tighten with a Phillips head screwdriver as shown below.
Assembly manual Now press both ports into position. No glue is necessary as the cutouts are precisely machined for a tight fit. Grille assembly Masking On the backside of the grille, you will notice a cut line inset from the edges. This cut line defines the area where the cloth will be glued to the frame.
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Assembly manual When you’ve finished spraying, turn the can upside down and spray briefly until you notice the amount of spray reduces. Usually after about one second, the paint stops but the solvent continues. This cleans out the nozzle and avoids blocking next time you want to continue using it.
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Assembly manual Press the cloth onto the opposite edge. Above you can see the wrinkles across the grille which indicate sufficient tension has been applied. Again, stop short of the corners. Now press the grille cloth to the frame on the third side. Then finally, press the cloth to the remaining side of the frame.
Assembly manual Wrinkle free corners The biggest challenge in assembling a grille is the corners. If not done correctly, these will bunch up. With a little care, you can avoid this problem and get a professional looking grille. Gather the fabric at the corners with both hands, as shown above. Pull the cloth at a 45 degree angle to each edge, stretching the fabric to eliminate as many wrinkles as possible.
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Assembly manual Trim the cloth Now you can use your thumbnail to find the cut line. Pressing your nail into the trench, score all the way around. This helps to confirm that you’ve effectively avoided wrinkles. Then with a sharp blade, slowly and carefully cut away the grille cloth, using the trench as a guide. You may like to use a straight edge, but it’s not essential.
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