The Loudspeaker Kit M4S Assembly Instructions Manual

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M4S Assembly
Instructions
Designed and manufactured in Australia by The Loudspeaker Kit
www.theloudspeakerkit.com
Email:
sales@theloudspeakerkit.com

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Summary of Contents for The Loudspeaker Kit M4S

  • Page 1 M4S Assembly Instructions Designed and manufactured in Australia by The Loudspeaker Kit www.theloudspeakerkit.com Email: sales@theloudspeakerkit.com...
  • Page 2 Assembly manual You will need: • Phillips head screwdriver • Woodworking glue • Damp cloth • Good quality masking tape • Ratchet tie down strap (optional) • Brick or other weight (optional) Preparation Lay the contents of the box out and check you have everything you need to complete the kit (see parts list on back page).
  • Page 3 Assembly manual Masking tape We recommend avoiding cheap masking tape, which tends to break when applied under tension. If you aren’t using the weight and ratchet strap, you are relying on the masking tape along to apply pressure to the join as the glue sets. Lay out the rear, side, top and bottom panels as shown with mitres facing the work surface.
  • Page 4 Assembly manual Tip: placing masking tape as shown assists with folding up the panels. Apply a bead of wood working glue to the bottom of the mitre join. Then apply a second bead. Since the glue will tend to run down towards the bottom, it’s a good idea to apply the glue above half way up to ensure even coverage.
  • Page 5 Assembly manual Confirm the amount of glue applied by folding up the first panel. The glue should cover the entire surface in contact. It’s preferable to see the glue ooze beyond the join slightly. This provides visual feedback on whether the glue has set. Once set, PVA glue becomes transparent.
  • Page 6 Assembly manual Apply a single thick bead for the top and side panels. Test the first pair of mitres to confirm glue coverage, then glue and fold up all the other panels. It is best to fold up and then tape one join at a time.
  • Page 7 Assembly manual Ensure the front baffle has the correct orientation. The port on the front and terminals on the back should be oriented so they are both on the bottom. In the picture above they are both on the right as the speaker is placed on its side. Apply a thick glue bead around the internal surfaces of the mitres.
  • Page 8 Assembly manual Once you have confirmed adequate glue coverage, press the baffle into place and wipe off all excess glue with a damp cloth. Secure panels firmly with masking tape. Apply pressure when pressing the tape into position. The tape holds the panels together as the glue sets. Cover all joins with tape, as shown below.
  • Page 9 Assembly manual Place a cardboard protector on top of the baffle then a brick on top to apply pressure. We don’t recommend using F clamps due to the risk of forcing panels apart. The advantage of using a brick is that this avoids the temptation to use excessive force. Drying time Typical wood glues can achieve moderate strength in as little as 30 minutes.
  • Page 10: Installing The Crossover Board

    Assembly manual Installing the crossover board There are three sets of cables: • Input terminals: located near the larger inductor on the end of the board. • Tweeter output: easily identified by the white cable • Woofer output: black cable next to the tweeter outputs The board is fixed in place with 5 short button head self tapping screws.
  • Page 11: Installing Terminals

    Assembly manual With the passive crossover in place, find the input terminals and feed them out through the rear opening. insert the black acoustic lining, which covers the rear, top and bottom internal faces of the enclosure. Check that it does not block the internal opening of the port. Glue is not necessary.
  • Page 12: Installing Drivers

    Assembly manual We recommend using a Phillips head screwdriver, as some powered drivers are more likely to cause damage if the head slips off the screw head. Impact drivers should be avoided. If using a powered driver, it’s best to use one which has a clutch, so that once the screws are adequately tightened, the driver will not over-tighten.
  • Page 13: Grille Assembly

    Assembly manual Grille assembly Masking On the backside of the grille, you will notice a cut line inset from the edges. This cut line defines the area where the cloth will be glued to the frame. The area inside this line needs to be masked, so the spray adhesive is applied only to the strip around the edge.
  • Page 14 Assembly manual Now press the cloth onto the glue on the back of the frame. Start with one side but avoid the corners, which should be pressed on last. It’s critical that the corners are done as the final step to avoid wrinkles bunching up.
  • Page 15: Wrinkle Free Corners

    Assembly manual Wrinkle free corners The biggest challenge in assembling a grille is the corners. If not done correctly, these will bunch up. With a little care, you can avoid this problem and get a professional looking grille. Gather the fabric at the corners with both hands, as shown above. Pull the cloth at a 45 degree angle to each edge, stretching the fabric to eliminate as many wrinkles as possible.
  • Page 16 Assembly manual Trim the cloth Now you can use your thumbnail to find the cut line. Pressing your nail into the trench, score all the way around. This helps to confirm that you’ve effectively avoided wrinkles. Then with a sharp blade, slowly and carefully cut away the grille cloth, using the trench as a guide. You may like to use a straight edge, but it’s not essential.
  • Page 17: Parts List

    Assembly manual Parts List: • 2 x SB Acoustics 4½” Woofer SB12PFC25-8 • 2 x SB Acoustics Tweeters SB19ST-C000-4 • 2 x Pre-built Crossover Networks • 2 x Round input Terminals • 12 x Panels of CNC machined MDF featuring mitre joints •...

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